blog2009

Preparing for the first event of 2009. Since its is likely to be raining here and in Monterey, will take up the Audi to Laguna Seca for the Audi Club event. Car seems to be running great, all the issues that need to be addressed have been.

• Updated the alignment to a more streetable setup so it can be driven instead of trailered.
• New small bore calipers installed in black.
• New slotted discs with take-off hardware.
• Testing the new Hawk pads we are considering for our program.
• Reinstalled the wiring for the V-1.
• Reinstalled belly pan and added Dzus fastener instead of sheet metal screw.

2/16/2009 Laguna Seca Audi Club Event - Broken AGAIN.

Drove the car all the way up to Laguna Seca. First session out, the car lost oil pressure and had to be trailered back! Their isn't any metal in the oil at least.

Initial troubleshooting:

• Oil pump. Was it replaced it when it was rebuilt?
• Plugged oil take up? Not likely.

Need to check oil pressure with a real gauge. Ron is going to close the shop for two weeks while he is on some sailing competition.

3/1/2009. Checking oil pressure. The oil pressure sender is a single wire with a rubber cover over it attached to the oil cooler. As I pulled back the cover, the wire came off with it. Was it already off? Can't be sure. No trouble screwing in the gauge Ron borrowed to me. Put the old oil back in and started it up. (Keep in mind Ron's gauge reads 10psi too high.) On startup the pressure was 90-95. Once the oil warmed up it dropped to 85-90. Went for a drive around the block. Oil pressure dropped to 30 at idle at the first downhill stop sign. Was 70-80 with partial throttle, higher going up the hill. The oil pressure idiot light came on after I blipped the throttle while warming the car up and stayed on.

3/2/2009. Redid the test today. (Corrected readings by 10pts)

• Idle, engine cold = 70 psi
• Idle, engine warm = 18-20 psi
• 3,000 RPM, engine warm = 70 psi

Seems slightly low. Per the manual:

• Idle, engine warm (175) = 14.5-50.75 psi
• 3,000 RPM, engine warm = 72.5-101.5 psi

Per Ron at VW Specialties, the specs are lower. 70 psi is fine. Need to check and/or replace the switch.

3/5 New Pressure Switch Installed. No more oil pressure light. Problem solved.

• Rerouted a wire that appeared to be misrouted and too tight
• Broke the wire that connects to the switch. Replaced with new crimp-on plug.

March/April - Ongoing Brake Issue, long pedal and double pumping issues. Replaced the standard "B" caliper (40/44 pistons) with the "H" caliper (36/40 pistons). Slightly better pedal height and feel. Jaime was cool and let me swap my current set with a set from the used inventory to test. Had been bleeding system to try and get a solid pedal back. Totally flushed fluid with ATE blue to insure all new fluid through system.

• There has been an issue with what appeared to be pad knockback that required a double pump.
• Found the RH axle bolt somewhat loose. Replaced that and the issue seems resolved.

7/5/2009 Creaking Noise. Under slow turning. Potential causes:

• Tie Rod ends. Mine were replaced at 110,000 miles though. Quattroworld Link with image
• Sub frame bolt loose. Easy to check. Not likely cause.
• Power steering fluid.
• Upper control arms. But they are non-lubed Istook arms.
• CV boots. Check anyway.

8/22/09 Track Prep

• Lubed Istook arms with WD40 and then the Bel Ray assembly lube
• Reinstalled belly pan - short two screws
• Cut the zip tie off the Istook arm. Probably was the creak.
• Need new race pads. Have grooved ST42's and worn out Pagid Blues. Also a set of unidentifed grooved pads. Probably the ST61's.
• Swapped front R and rear R wheels. Could isolate high speed thumping if it's an out of round or out of balance wheel.
• Checked exhaust noise. Seems like the exhaust is just getting louder. Plugged it up and didn't hear a leak.
• Check PS fluid. Added a small amount as it was right at "min".

8/31/2009 Track Day at Streets of Willow - FAIL

• Lost boost pressure. Went down to about 5 lbs. engine also was missing.
• New DTC-30 pads seemed to work great. Good pedal and initial bite. Later in the day they seemed to develop symptoms like judder as they got hot.
• Ended up cutting the day short. Another failed track day.
• Good news was everything else seemed to work.

Trouble shooting the boost leak

• Bought a used air compressor, some PVC at Home Depot Racing along with a air valve at Pep Boys. Rigged that into the hose right at the turbo and pumped it up to about 25 psi.
• So much air leaked out that it wouldn't hold pressure long enough to find the leak. Marie came out and between her good ears and some soapy water, we found that the leaks were at the injectors.
• Found that two of the injectors were missing their rubber seals (WTF?). Took the seals from the extra injector (that was sucked into the motor previously) was able to reinstall everything and retest. Still major leaks. Recheck found that the black plastic insert was loose. Tighten and recheck. Still leaks. Call Ron at VW Specialties. He has a new smoke boost testing machine he wants to play with and I get an appointment to bring the car in Wednesday. Good timing since that's the office day.
• Unfortunately, the Odyssey battery is toast. So I wake up early and boost it with the Tundra and drive it into work. At lunch I find out that the battery is really toast and didn't take a charge during the drive in. However, the car runs great all the way to work and makes about 15 psi. Normal. Still, Ron and I decide to reschedule and make sure everything is really OK since those injectors still seem to leak.
• Good news on the Odyssey battery, it has a 3 year warranty and Summit Racing will take it back and send a new one. More good news, the old stock size battery takes a trickle charge and starts the car. A small victory.

10/30/2009 Exalt Track Day at Big Willow

• Car ran great. Was fun running down S4's and RS4's.
• Bill (R8), Eric (S4). Jeff Moss (S4) and his Canadian friend (S4). Also finally met Derek and Johnathan from Exalt. Dave Kan was sick so he bailed.
• Made 18-19 lbs of boost. Race fuel allows the ECU to increase boost? Jeff Moss was there and sounds like the Air/Fuel is in spec. Should be 12-12.5 at WOT and max boost in 4th - 5th gear.
• Front end, right side still seems to rattle.
• Tested DTC-30. Great for a lap or two, then they start to have judder symptoms. Finally just fade away.
• Tested ST61 "Highway Patrol" compound. No fade, but dull with zero initial bite.
• Ran the injector seals from Home Depot. No issues. Will have correct seals next week.
• Reinstalled new Odyssey battery before event.
• Removed rear seats again.
• Reinstalled ST04 street pads after event

11/14/2009 Installed new injector seals

• Back clip was loose/mis-installed
• Front plastic retaining clip thing broke again.

11/20/2009 Cal Speedway - Yet another flatbed ride home.