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DFW, The Best in ~~~ is burger heaven
Behold the burger: juicy patty, squishy yet supple bun, tangy tomato, perky pickles. Such simple elements, yet somehow they all come together in an explosion of happy burger flavor that can seem almost miraculous.
A good hamburger is a thing of beauty and joy. It’s casual food, fit for grabbing at a counter on the run. But dress it up with caramelized this, melted that and a glass of wine, and it’s perfectly at home in an upscale dining room.
In Dallas, we’ve got them all — high-end burgers, bargain burgers and everything in between. Their success depends on the ingredients used, in what proportions, and how the patty is cooked. If it’s fabulous grass-fed beef with a goodly dose of fat, you want that patty thick. If it’s less chichi beef, make it thinner; let it be about the char. But what dresses it up is important, too.
If there’s one Dallas gentleman who’s king of the burger, it would have to be Nick Badovinus, chef-owner of Neighborhood Services. He’s the only guy in town who has two restaurants on this list of The Best in DFW: Hamburgers — one at the cheap end, the other at the high end. Both serve outstanding examples of their genres, and both use good beef, ground in exacting proportions at Off-Site Kitchen.
National chains were excluded from consideration for The Best in DFW: Hamburgers — the idea was to seek out the best burgers Texas independents and local mini-chains have to offer. Classic-style burgers were ordered as a benchmark when possible, supplemented by appealing-sounding specialty burgers.
Here, in alphabetical order, are D-FW’s most delicious.
A buzzy French bistro isn’t necessarily where you’d go looking for a burger, but Boulevardier’s got a great one. Chef Nathan Tate fashions a thick patty of splendid grass-fed beef from his family’s farm, grills it perfectly to order (with Gruyère melted on top), sets it on a grilled pain au lait bun and dresses it up with caramelized onion and house-cured bacon. It’s a beaut, served with lettuce and tomato and excellent frites, best enjoyed at the bar, with a glass of Côtes du Rhône. It’s $14 well spent. A touch of class: The wine is served in Riedel crystal stemware. Open Tuesday-Sunday for dinner and Saturday and Sunday for brunch. Full bar.
408 N. Bishop Ave., Dallas. 214-942-1828. dallasboulevardier.com.
Goodfriend Beer Garden and Burger House
The laid-back, covered patio, with flowers spilling from wall planters and dogs lounging by pet-parents’ feet, is the perfect setting for a juicy burger and a craft beer. The burgers are made with good, grass-fed beef, the kitchen knows how to cook them to order and the menu even matches ’em up with beers. The Loretta is a fine choice, with blue cheese and onion-bacon jam, and the suggested pairing — Lakewood Brewing Co. Temptress — is spot-on. Purists will love the thick, juicy P.L.O.T. burger. Try the fried green beans and cabbage-feta slaw on the side. Burgers are $8 to $12. Open nightly for dinner and Friday-Monday for lunch. Full bar.
1154 Peavy Road, Dallas. 214-324-3335. goodfrienddallas.com.
Kevin and Jenny Galvan opened this cheerful, friendly spot next to Alamo Drafthouse in 2013. Their terrific burgers feature half-inch-thick patties cooked as you like them, carefully dressed with good ingredients and served on brioche buns from Village Baking Co. There’s a well-chosen selection of local craft beers on tap, good, rustic fries and a snappy chipotle ketchup. Burgers range from $5.95 (for a kid’s burger) to $8.75. Open for lunch and dinner nightly. Beer and wine.
100 S. Central Expressway at Belt Line Road, Richardson. 972-479-9424. haystackburgers.com.
This Uptown place from Yaser Khalaf (Souk, Medina Oven and Bar, Baboush) felt a bit dysfunctional when my husband and I stopped in early on a Friday evening. Tables weren’t cleared, and the bartender complained about being “in the weeds,” though the small place was only a third full. We weren’t prepared for what we got: burgers that impressed. The thick patties were perfectly cooked to order and nicely seasoned. The Ketchup Burger, topped with melted cheddar, was done up with grilled red onions, tomato, lettuce leaf, a lick of mustard and house-made ketchup. Cornmeal-battered, crisply fried pickles came in a mini fryer basket. A splendid chocolate milkshake sealed the deal. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Full bar.
3028 N. Hall St., Dallas. 214-922-8222. ketchupbar.com.
The burger spot founded by Mariel Street (daughter of restaurateur Gene Street) in 2011 on Forest Lane at Inwood Road has blossomed into a local mini-chain, but quality has not suffered as a result; in fact the burgers I’ve sampled lately were even better than they were in the beginning. The burgers start with good beef — a blend of tenderloin, brisket and chuck. (Turkey, bison and veggie are options, too.) The thick patties are cooked reliably as ordered with the full complement of thoughtfully designed garnishes. Burgers are $7.50 to $10.50. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Full bar.
5211 Forest Lane, Dallas. 972-239-2100. More locations at givemelibertyburger.com.
At $19, the burger at Nick Badovinus’ popular Preston Hollow bistro is extravagantly priced. But it’s also extravagantly flavorful, made with dry-aged beef and seared on an iron griddle over wood fire so all those marvelous juices are trapped inside. I love that fact that it comes fully dressed (with a good Russian- dressing-like sauce), caramelized onion, the right amount of shredded lettuce, a big slice of ripe tomato and slices of pickle. The glistening sesame bun has a nice, toasty edge. Melted cheddar completes the picture. The fries are excellent, too. You simply can’t do any better than this. It’s burger heaven. Open for dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar.
5027 W. Lovers Lane, Dallas. 214-350-5027. neighborhoodservicesdallas.com.
If Neighborhood Services is burger heaven for the rich man, Off-Site Kitchen is burger heaven for Everyman. Order at the counter, grab a seat on the patio and wait for wonderfulness. The thin-pattied, “Route 66-style” burgers are irresistible — dressed much like the Neighborhood Services burger. In its way, and for its price (the Straight Up goes for $3.55), it’s every bit as satisfying. A green-chile- and-bacon number rocks, too. Open for lunch Monday-Saturday. Beer.
2226 Irving Blvd., Dallas. 214-741-2226. neighborhoodservicesdallas.wordpress.com /off-site-kitchen.
Named for the town square on which it sits in old downtown McKinney, this charming, spacious, light-filled burger parlor continues to delight. The kitchen doesn’t always get the temperature right on the burgers, which are made from grass-fed beef, but they’re always good nonetheless. My longtime personal favorite is the Stadium Burger, with grilled onions, Gruyère, dill pickle relish and spicy brown mustard aioli. The burgers each come with a fried pickle spear — gotta love that. Features from chef Craig Brundege can be quite good, too. Recently I loved a spring pea soup with lardons and cipollini onions, and a lobster mac gratin with spring peas and mushrooms. A wide selection of craft beers adds to the fun. Burgers are $9 to $12. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday, and lunch Sunday. Full bar.
115 N. Kentucky St., McKinney. 972-542-0185. facebook.com/pages/Square-Burger/110456025670122.
On Twitter: @lesbren
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