Presentation No. 1
The Course Objectives
Pressing Technology as used in the Men’s and Ladies Formal Tailoring Industry.
Consider the Machinery used for these processes.
Experience the Processes in Action
Understand the Influence of the Full Range of Media used in Industrial Garment Pressing
This is simply the process whereby ‘Three Dimensional Shaping’ is put into a garment; both during the garment construction and when the garment is finished for presentation to the customer.
A ‘Memory’ is put into the Materials during pressing so that the garment retains its Shape and its Finish throughout its lifetime, provided that it is well cared for.
In the distant past, pressing was achieved by using Hand Irons of Cast ‘Iron’, heated on the coals of an open fire.
A piece of Linen or Cotton Cloth was placed between the Iron and the Garment to protect the garment from the direct heat.
Some fabrics such as Wool contain moisture and this would generate sufficient Steam to allow the surface of the garment and the seams to be pressed cleanly. Extra Steam for pressing was generated by wetting this piece of Cotton Cloth.
The amount of steam produced was controlled by Wringing Out the excess water before placing the cloth over the garment.
The Skill of the Presser was in understanding these basic principles. Experience was gained by ‘Trial and Error’ but without damaging the Customers Garments
Understanding Shape and Fabric Grain
In the Craft Tailoring environment, the Measuring of the Customer and the Cutting of the materials is the domain of ‘The Cutter’. However, it is the Tailor that makes the garment.
During the process the garment is ‘Fitted’ on the customer again by the Cutter and is passed, with any alterations indicated, to the Tailor to finish off and Press.
This teamwork is built on knowledge of each other’s work and on basic expectations of their skills and of the Tailoring & Pressing Processes.
Before the Cutter cuts any of the materials he will ‘Press’ all of the Fabrics to remove any excessive shrinkage and to stabilise the fabric.
In the case of the internal interlinings or ‘Canvases’ used to form the Jacket or Coat Fronts, they will be constructed and shaped to a pattern larger than the garment needs and will then washed to remove any shrinkage and to soften them. These Canvases would then be hung out to dry before being pressed to body shape by the Tailor.
During the pressing processes, the Tailor will ensure that the fabric grain is kept straight and that the shaping put in by the Cutter is retained.
If the Tailor were to distort the fabric, the Garment’s Fit on the Customer would be embarrassing for all concerned.
A thorough understanding of these factors is essential in the training of a Garment Presser for Tailoring or for Industry.
Importance of Pattern Shapes
The Cutter will have provided Pattern Shapes, which will give the garment its ‘Fit‘ perfection and its styling. When pressing a garment is important that the Tailor understands these shapes and how to press them.
He will use a combination of the Table and some simple padded shapes (or Bucks) to position each garment part as he presses it. Sleeves will require a different shape to the Front or the Collar.
Some of these Pressing Pads are still needed in Industrial Pressing systems where a metal press buck shape would be too expensive to make. (Some simple bucks may be made from wood).
The knowledge of the pattern shapes used in a particular manufacturing company will be essential for the selection of the correct pressing ‘Buck Shapes’.
Pressing Without the Use of Steam
As explained before, The skill in pressing without the use of Processed Steam, was gained through experience and by training given by others.
The materials to be pressed and the equipment available were a major influence on the finish attained.
As each piece of fabric was handled and processed, it was in the interest of the person doing the pressing that everyone else handling the fabric, kept it free from creases and wrinkles.
The Less the Creases put into the fabric, the less there will be to take out by pressing.
All pressing operations utilised hand irons heated on open fires or cooking stoves. Usually a number of irons were heated to allow work to continue as each iron cooled.
The pressing was aided by the use of products such as ‘Domestic Washing Soap’, which was rubbed on the inside of the fabric to stiffen the creases in the hems.
As Tailored Garments were not Washed or Dry Cleaned, this soap remained in the garment provided the ‘Sponging’ method used to clean it was not too wet.
Tailoring fabrics were heavy in years gone by and not so demanding of the Pressing Process.
As Customers have been influenced towards wearing more delicate and demanding fabrics, the technology needed to press them has had to improve in parallel.
Even so in modern manufacturing, it is necessary to apply finishing processes to some Fabrics to allow the Pressing process to cope with the difficulties they present.
Products such as ‘Anti Crease’ and ‘Teflon’ Finishes are used. For Lower Cost or Budget Fabrics, Silicones can be added to improve their performance.
In the pressing of Cotton Fabrics it is not unknown for a Domestic Spray Starch to be used to help achieve the desired finish to the garment surface.
Using Forming Bucks
These devices are usually made from either Wood, Cork or Fibre Wadding. They are shaped to suit the garment and the handling needs of the Person doing the pressing.
Often the presser will have their own shapes made and cover them with layers of Wool Felt and a Soft stretchy fabric, which will mould to the finished shape.
The presser will need a range of shapes to suit the needs of each area of the garment to be pressed, that could not be accommodated by using the standard pressing table shape.
The use of such ‘Buck Shapes’ feature significantly in the selection of Modern Industrial Pressing Equipment.
Knowledge of the effect of the Padding used to cover them will also be required to both select the best materials and to know when a Press needs to be re covered.
While much of the initial ‘Inside or Under’ Pressing took place on the back of the fabric, eventually the outer surface has to be pressed.
These pieces of protective Fabric were essential tools of the Pressing Tailor as they formed the barrier between the heated Pressing Iron and the Garments Fabric surface.
They are also often the only carrier of the Moisture needed for Pressing and are also the influence on the ‘Surface Finish’ achieved during the pressing.
A ‘Wooly’ fabric used for this purpose will leave a soft 'Matt' finish on the outside of the garment. A Shiny fabric will produce a polished ‘Glaze’. Both are desirable on the appropriate garment.
Knowledge of the effect is important in the selection of the covering materials used for the ‘Head’ of the Industrial Pressing machine.
Even today these cloths will be used and placed over a garment on a Modern Pressing Machine to protect a particular fabric if this proves easier than changing a press that is performing well on other fabrics.
Also one can see small pieces of other technical fabrics such as ‘Woven Teflon ’ being used under the Pocket Flaps or on the Jacket to limit the impression that the flap will make on the front panels.
Final Shaping & Finishing
It does not matter how well the pressing process has been designed and how skilled the Pressing Tailor is, there is always the need to give the garment one last finishing press.
In a modern Batch Production environment, where the Total Pressing Process is divided among many individual Pressers, this process is used to bring the conformity expected by the Retail Customer as the garments hang in their stores.
In the world of Individual Tailoring, it is the Tailors last chance to ensure that the garment will look Excellent when the customer takes it away.
Even in a Modern Factory the old techniques are used to adjust the finish where the various machine finishes did not blend exactly.
The Tailor Presser here will use Pads and Pressing Cloths to apply that final finish. Some companies use this operation as their Final Quality Control Point.
The Way a Fabric Feels.
Fabric is what the customer is buying. Despite the fact that it will be converted into a garment, it is fabric that they will feel as they make their selection. It is the fabric that they will love or hate as it either performs well or performs badly with such effect as creasing.
The Best Tailors will only offer fabrics, which maintain their excellent reputation. However, Expensive does not always mean Good.
The Finest, Softest Wool fabric will disappoint if it creases badly or if it looses its ‘Shape and its Smartness’.
Each of the people involved in the Fabric Selection and the Garment Creation processes are likely to have a strong opinion about the Quality of the Fabric.
A Fabric Technical Person may say that Technically; the Fabric is Very Good.
The Tailor may equally say the Fabric is difficult to Sew or to Press.
Even though the Tailor has made a Beautiful Garment, the customers may not like the fabric and it will not sell.
Suitability for Tailoring
We have to remember that the ability of a Fabric to be ‘Tailored’ will determine how easy or difficult it is to both Sew and to Press.
If a fabric is hard and has no natural Stretch, then any shaping done by the Tailor will produce a difficult task for the presser.
In the world of Craft Tailoring, such fabrics would not be offered to the customer.
In the world of Mass Production, the Pattern will be cut differently to accommodate the hard fabric.
Such alterations as:
Less fullness in the Sleeve Head Seam.
Less Shaping in the Body Seams.
A Seam put into the Collar Pattern to provide the shape.
Crisp, Hard, Springy, Stiff
These descriptions apply to fabrics that will be difficult to Tailor but will produce a Garment where the Size and Fit will be more consistent. The Seam Sewing and Pressing will need to be exact.
The garment may not be so comfortable to wear, particularly when sitting down.
Soft, Drapeable, Limp, Smooth
Garments from Fabrics with these descriptions may Tailor and Press easily due to the softness of the Yarns and Fibres.
There may be other problems with the ‘Dimensional Stability’ which could make the retention of sizing and surface finish difficult. In theses cases the fabric may need a Special Finishing Process to help the Making and Pressing become be more predictable.
Cool, Warm, Rough, Soapy etc.
Each of these effects may inspire the customer to buy the garments, or they may dislike them.
Many Customers will ‘Feel’ the fabric as their first evaluation of it.
In a Garment Retail Store we can experience the customers ‘Feeling’ the end of a Sleeve to assess if they ‘Like’ the fabric.
Finishing Method affects handle.
When a Designer is selecting Fabric for their Range of Styling. They can ask the Fabric Supplier to modify the ‘Fabric Finish’ to suit their personal preference.
A fabric with a Hairy Surface can be Cropped (Shaved with Sharp Knives) to reduce the surface depth and to make the fabric feel smoother. Or it can be Singed (Using Flames) to reduce the depth of the surface but to retain the Hairiness.
A Fabric with an ‘Open Weave’ pattern can be given a more Closed Weave by Shrinking, and therefore closing up of the Yarns in a High Temperature ‘Steam Box’ or in a ‘High Pressure Autoclave’.
A Soft Fabric with a Smooth or Flat surface can be softened by ‘Open Steaming’ to raise the soft surface fibres.
A Poor Quality Fabric can be made to feel more Expensive by adding a surface Finish by the application of a Resin.
The issue for the Tailor & Presser is to understand how these treatments were achieved so that the Pressing methods ‘Compliment’ the Fabric Finish.
The ‘Memory’ put into the fabric during its finishing process should not be destroyed during the Garment Manufacturing!
Press - Steam - Garment Wash
These effects are usually the result of some additional process added into the Garment Design or due to an essential method needed to manufacturing some fabric.
In Each Case there is likely to be a significant change to the Dimension of the Garment and the Finish of the Fabric.
For instance a Garment could be Made and Pressed to form the shape but then be subjected to steaming on a Steam / Air Finishing Press to lift the fabric surface. This could be Velvet or even Fine Cashmere. This could additionally shrink the fabric and make the garment drape more easily.
Understanding Manufacturing
This is a list of Cause and Effect considerations of a fabric that the Cutter may have built into the pattern, or which may be built into the Fabric Finish, with the expectation that Garment Pressing will retain.
Fabric Movement Tolerances
Most Fabric will change shape and dimension during Tailoring & Pressing. The knowledge of this expected change should influence the Presser on how the Garment is handled during Pressing.
Thermal and Steam Shrinkage
Both types of shrinkage must be identified and the Percentages established. An optimum amount, needed to cover the Manufacturing Process, must be built into the Garment Patterns.
This can only be accurately established by testing each Fabric through the process machinery.
Rigid & Stretch Fabrics Response to Steam
It is essential to understand how each fabric will react to the various methods used to manufacture the garments. The Presser or Pressing Technician will need to establish the needs of each Fabric at each Pressing Operation.
Modern Presses and Irons are adjustable in terms of the Heat Transfer, the volume of steam emitted and the pressure applied to the Fabric.
Where Presses can be programmed and where Multiple Programmes can be stored, an Operation Specification can be established indicating which programme to use.
Pressing for Garment Wash Processes
Some Manufacturing Processes will leave the entire Garment Pressing until after the Washing Process is complete.
Others will press the details such as pockets edges and collars so that they still look good after a gentle wash and need only light ironing.
Dependent of the Finish Required, the Washing Program can be set to give minimum creasing or Maximum Creasing. The decision whether to allow the Washed Garments to Dry before Pressing or to remain Damp will influence both the pressing method and the expected finish.
It would be foolish to allow a Badly Creased washed garment to dry and then instruct the Pressing Department that the garment is to be pressed Crease Free.
Pressing to Retain the Washed Character
These garments tend to be in the Cotton, Linen and Denim ranges of fabrics. Typical Machinery used is the ‘Steam Air Finisher’ where the garment is Inflated by a Mixture of Steam and Air which is then dried with more cold air blown through the garment from inside.
No further Pressing is used so that the washed character is retained. The after finish required would be determined by the Garment Designer.
The level of consistency expected is achieved by presentation of the garments to the presses with a consistent level of dampness before pressing.
Domestic Garment Wash Requirements
Many of the Modern Tailored products today, are manufactured, to be washed at home by the consumer. The Design of these garments, from the choice of materials to the Method of Construction has to keep the Washing Objective at the top of the list of considerations and Constraints.
For example, Too many Seams and too many details will make the garment difficult to press for the consumer.
The choice of Materials is critical to provide ‘easy care’ properties in the garment.
Setting In the Finish for Domestic Washing
A Clean Pressed finish with firmly opened seams and clean edges and trouser creases will help retain the finish immediately after the washing cycle.
If the pressing is soft and poorly defined, the consumer will find it to be impossible to return the garment to a wearable finish using domestic pressing equipment.
Setting In the finish for Dry Cleaning.
The Industrial Dry Cleaning processes are gentler when compared with domestic washing. This is necessary to be able to manage fabrics and products not designed for washing.
The Garment Pressing, during manufacturing, can therefore be softer.
It is normal for the Dry Cleaning operator to be equipped with industrial pressing equipment and is therefore well placed to improve the after cleaning pressed standard.
The technical standard for the Materials used inside of the garment such as the interlinings need to be of a high standard and free of materials which are soluble in the dry cleaning solution.
Understanding Interlinings
Their Function in Design
The interlining is the foundation or support of the garment used to build in shaping to a garment or to support the fabric and styling over an inadequate body frame.
Interlinings are the foundation of a Tailored Garment.
The Interlining could be made of a single ply of Fine Cotton Fabric or of a Non Woven Synthetic Material or of a Wool and Horse-Hair Canvas, covered with a layer of soft wool or cotton felt.
It could be sewn into the garment or it could be bonded to the surface of the fabric using an adhesive resin.
An Interlining will be found in simple places such as Pocket Flaps. It will be highly constructed and in multiple layers in the front of a Men’s Jacket or Coat.
It will be a very precise Multi Layer Bonded product in the Collar and Cuffs of a Men’s Shirt.
Understanding the Effect on Fabric Finish
The selection of an interlining is as much an art as it is a science.
The art is in knowing how the garment is to feel to the wearer and how it will help to shape the garment.
The science is in knowing, through testing, if it is compatible with the fabric to which it will be married.
Should the interlining be Straight Cut in the grain of the fabric or should it be Bias cut to help the fabric or the styling roll or drape.
If an interlining is not as soft or is more open weave than the outer fabric it may be necessary to cover it with such as Lining in the case of a Sewn in Interlining.
Their Consideration during Pressing
Pressing Garments with interlining inside should be easier to press provided the application of the interlining is correct.
If any differential shrinkage between the fabric and the Interlining has not been removed during the assembly processes the final pressing operation will be poor as one or the other of the materials distorts the other.
Where bonded interlinings are concerned, The temperature used to Bond the adhesive must not be exceeded during any other process. Over heating is likely to cause delamination, which will leave Bubbles of Fabric on the surface. This is unlikely to be reversible.
Using Fusing Machinery Efficiently
Respect must be given to the process of Bonding Fusible Interlinings.
It is very much in the interest of those responsible for the pressing of garments to be fully involved in the processes of bonding interlinings.
The ‘Technical Conditions’ are pre determined by the Interlining Manufacturer and the settings of the Bonding Machines need to be maintained at those optimum conditions.
The supplier of the interlinings will make these recommendations for the type of Fusing Machine that is available, However these ‘conditions’ do depend on the machine being maintained to operate as the machine manufacturer specified.
There are set procedures used for testing the Time, Pressure and the Bonding Temperature (Called the Glue Line Temperature) depending on the type of press in use.
This Quality Assurance is achieved by regular Testing of the Bond Strength of each fabric in use. Testing should be conducted at least twice during the working day and as often as any of the settings are changed for any reason.
It must be understood by all concerned that, while the settings on the machine dials remain constant, the operation or use can change the conditions inside the press.
Fabric with High Moisture content will release ‘Steam’, which can both reduce the optimum Temperature inside the machine and also impair the chemical reaction of the bonding Resin.
Equally, If the utilisation of the bonding area is increased or decreased there is likely to be a converse lowering or raising of the Bonding Temperature.
All may appear well from the outside but could be going horribly wrong at the ‘Glue Line’.
Testing Interlinings for Bond Strength
There are prescribed methods for testing the bond strength. Each method used a predetermined sample of bonded fabric with a specific width & length.
The Bond Strength in Grams or Newton’s is measured as the fabric is peeled away from the Interlining.
A simple Spring Balance may be used for this or the more efficient Peel Strength Tester in the Laboratory.
The Pressing Process & Bond Strength
When setting out the Garment Under Pressing and Final Pressing Operations we should consider the interlinings used in the design of the garment.
Whether the interlining if Sewn in or Bonded to the fabric, it will be possible to distort the interlining and change the shape of the garment. This could be by twisting or by stretching.
With a Fusible Interlining the application of Steam Heat during such distortion could cause the interlining to de-laminate. This delamination may not occur during the manufacturing process but later during Cleaning by the consumer.
Hand Ironing Machinery
Choice of Iron Shape
Hand Irons tend to come in two main sizes
Broad Sole Plate for general ironing operations, where the pressing needs to cover a large area
Narrow Sole Plate for seam opening where the steam needs to be concentrated along the seam.
Seam Opening - General Use - Detail Work.
Seam opening irons of the modern type tend to be lighter in weight than their older counterparts where they were heavy and often needed to be supported by an overhead support chain.
Weight was used to set in the seam before the days of modern Vacuum Tables, which can dry the seam quickly. Speed & Cost being the modern criteria. Seam Irons are normally Steam Irons.
General use irons are heavier because they are larger. They are available in both ‘Steam Iron’ and ‘Electric or Dry Iron’ forms.
Steam versions tend to be used for pressing operations inside and outside of the garment. Where they are used for Seam Opening, other operations can be incorporated such as pocket detail pressing.
The Dry Iron Version tends to be used for pressing delicate fabrics where direct steam would be too rigorous, such as taffetas and sateen lining materials. Steam needed to remove any creasing when using these irons can be created by spraying a fine mist of de ionised water onto the surface.
Weight & Control Method
The weight of an iron is used to increase the pressure on the fabric. This is important if there is no Vacuum available to increases the sharpness of the seam or edge being pressed.
Where the iron is heavy, a control device may have been introduced to support the weight and help the presser.
Two forms tended to be used
- An overhead rail with the iron supported by a cord and spring
- A pivoted arm, attached to the base of the press, to which the iron is attached and which lowers during the pressing action using a foot operated pedal.
Manual or ‘Sequence Programmed’ Irons
Most Irons are operated using a ‘finger pressure’ operated lever or button attached to the iron. At the same time, Vacuum or Air Blowing in the pressing table is foot operated.
Products are available to provide electronic control of the vacuum from the ‘steam operation’ button in the iron handle. These devices generally switch on the vacuum and ‘time’ the amount to be applied every time the button is released.
Sole Plate Shapes and Plate Covers.
Irons are generally found in two shapes – ‘Narrow’ for such as seam opening and ‘Broad’ for general ironing. Other specialist types can be found such as a ‘Hollow Sole plate for use with a specialist tubular press buck used for seam opening. Large flat oblong irons are used to press the surfaces of Snooker Table covers.
‘Plate Covers’ are available for basic irons for two main reasons.
Teflon Covers are used to protect the fabric from the direct heat and potential glazing of the Iron’s Sole Plate.
Stainless Steel Covers are used to maintain the Iron’s heat and carry it to the fabric.
In both cases, internal filter plates are used to allow some control on how the steam passes through the sole plate.
Vacuum Tables & Shapes
There are two basic pressing table shapes.
The traditional domestic ironing table shape often called the ‘Skirt Shape or Board’ used for skirt & dress general pressing.
An oblong shape is used for general pressing of small or large garment panels.
For large manufacturing operations, special tables are available to suit such particular seams such as trouser seams.
Portable Shaped Bucks - Size & Shape
Modern Pressing tables can be equipped with extension arms, which may carry specially shaped ‘Bucks ‘ designed to better shape particular garment parts or seams. Manufactures provide catalogues of these bucks of which there are usually many options.
The shapes are generally specific to the manufacturer of the press but can be increased in profile size by the choice of covering materials.
In the non-industrial environment of the past, these bucks were often made of wood and covered with soft padding and a cotton cover. They stood on either short legs or a ‘T’ shaped plinth.
With Vacuum and Air Blowing
Modern Pressing Tables have the minimum of a Vacuum (sucking) system to draw expelled steam away from the press surface and to dry the garment part. This is generally made as a hollow table and a motorised fan operated by a foot pedal.
More advanced versions have the ability to reverse the sucking to creates a blowing action using a second foot pedal. Blowing is used where the sucking motion would produce impressions from various thickness of the fabric being ironed, such as with hems or pockets.
Plumbed In or Portable Boilers.
With portable ironing tables the option is usually available to purchase small portable steam raising boilers. These are useful where frequent production line reorganisation is needed allowing the ironing table to be moved with its boiler.
If the pressing table is to remain in a static position on a production line the iron may take its steam from the factory steam line.
A portable boiler can be used if no seam line is available in a particular part of the factory.
Steam Pressing Machinery
Variety of Options Available & Why?
Basic Utility Shaped Presses or Steam Air Finishers for general pressing in such as a laundry or dry-cleaning shops.
Specialist Press Shapes for production of excellent tailoring.
Manual - Scissors - Vertical – Carousel
A matter of history, cost and productive capacity.
Manual is slow and irregular in finish, but effective
Scissors was original design but causes the pressing head to move laterally slightly during closing.
Vertical brings the head to the buck with no lateral movement.
Carousel allows one operator to effectively operate the equivalent to two single head presses.
Program Systems for Process Control
On a manual press the operator decides the total pressing cycle as the press head is closed, steam is applied through either the head and /or the buck, the head is lifted and the vacuum is applied.
With a programmed system, all of these functions and more are controllable through an electronic program controlling the presses functions. These are:
Steam - Pressure - Vacuum - Air Blowing
Steam is controlled down through the head of the press or up through the buck. Both can be applied together of separately. This can be intermittent or continuous.
Pressure can be applied instantly or can be slowly increased.
Vacuum can be applied before pressing to hold the garment in place and released as the pressing cycle begins. It can be re applied when the head is down and under pressure and re applied as the press head lifts.
Vacuum can be drawn both through the press buck in the traditional manner and /or through the press head to draw the garment towards the smooth press head.
Air Blowing is used to eliminate the impressions, which would be caused, by the buck vacuum.
It is also used to prevent the pile on such as velvet or other fabrics with a ‘Raised Surface’
Press Head Operation - Hover - Patting
Modern Programmable Pressing Machines have the ability to control the position and the movement of the Press Head.
This allows the function of ‘Patting’ to be used where the head raises and lowers frequently while steam is being emitted from the press head. The Press Head can also be programmed to ‘Hover’ just above the surface of the garment while steam is either passed up from the Press Buck or from the Press Head.
These functions tend to be used for pressing fabrics, which have a surface pile or face such as Velvet or Camelhair Coatings.
Press Line Organisation for Efficiency
Where the ‘Inside’ or ‘Under Pressing’ is concerned, each part of the garment needs to be pressed in a clean and perfect manner, such that repeat pressing is not required and such that the ‘Final’ or
‘Top Pressing’ requires the minimum of finishing.
For underpressing, it is ideal that the most appropriate press or pressing table shape and Iron shape for each operation is used.
For instance, while trouser Leg Seams and Jacket Sleeve Seams may be pressed on a Flat Oblong Pressing Table, It will be very difficult for the operator and the Essential shaping will not be easily achieved.
In a Tailors Shop, Maybe? In and Industrial environment striving for Low Cost, Productive Efficiency and High Quality, Definitely Not
‘Top Pressing cannot finish, mend or repair poor under pressing.’
If the Final Pressing system has to be managed to try and repair poor under pressing then the Pressing Programs will always be too heavy for Excellent Finishing!
It is important that the ‘Garment Handling System’ does not damage the pressing from the previous pressing operations.
It is important that there is a ‘Dwell Time’ allowed between each operation, where the garment has time to cool and dry before being placed on a subsequent Press. For Tailored Garments, this principle is absolutely essential.
Operation Sequence for Optimum Finish
The sequence of pressing used for a particular garment type depends on how it is constructed.
In essence, the object is to press the garment with the least number of movements and the least amount of re pressing of parts already pressed.
In ‘Inside’ or ‘Under Pressing’ the sequence will no doubt be determined by the Garment Assembly sequence. However, The critical decision making here is the standard to which the finish in each component must receive to eliminate re pressing further along the process chain.
For instance in the shirt industry, the Collars and Cuffs are pressed to a Finished Standard before they are attached to the body of the garment.
Conversely in some Skirt Constructions, the entire inside pressing is left until the whole garment is completed
In ‘Final’ or ‘Top Pressing’, Trousers and Skirts would have the Legs or the Body of the garment pressed first and the Tops and Waistband pressed at the end of the process.
Jackets will have the Sleeves and Body Parts pressed first followed by the Shoulders, Collars, the Linings and lastly the Lapels.
The System Design and Sequence is critical to designing a Pressing Process layout, as the installation is expensive and costly and disruptive to keep changing.
When installing the overhead or under-floor main services for Production Lines and Final Pressing Lines, it is essential to provide installation points at pre-determined intervals throughout the line, sufficient to take the maximum number of pressing units ever likely to be required by the factory or workshop.
This is the most expensive item to alter if it has insufficient capacity.
The practices of installing multiple pressing units on one main service take off point must be discouraged as the quality of steam and vacuum provided will suffer, ultimately reducing the quality of the pressing operations.
Press Shapes and Bucks
Correct Shapes & Their Purpose
Why have a Shaped Buck on a Press; it is limiting and generally expensive to purchase?
All garments are ‘Three Dimensional’ due to the shapes built into the Pattern Pieces used to cut them. The more Shaped and Fitted the Product, the more difficult it is to press.
Again, the Skilled Tailor who assembles each part with Loving Care, and ensures perfect inside pressing may be able to use skill and time to hand press the finished garment.
In the industrial world, Multiple (Dozens) of identical garments have to be finished to an Identical or Consistent Standard.
The use of Shaped Presses and their associated Programs are suitable to provide this consistency with productive efficiency as well.
As a note of caution, the shapes purchased must be appropriate to the shapes of the garment being produced. To use an incorrect shape will not only make the achievement of a clean finish difficult. It could also distort or stretch the garment, destroying the fit and appearance.
Press Buck Covering Materials
Garment Presses have either just a Buck in the case of an Ironing Table or have both a Head & a Buck in the case of a Steam Press.
The coverings used on these heads & Bucks will influence the quality of Pressed Finish achieved.
There is a simple principal used for Pressing Garments using machines where the head is closed onto the surface of the garment – ‘Keep the Head Hard & the Buck Soft’
To understand the reasoning behind this some knowledge of Fabric Finishing is required.
The idea of keeping the head covering thin produced a flat clean finish to the surface of the garments.
The Soft Buck is used to absorb the variety of thickness in the garment such as Seam or Pockets. While the head is pushing down on the garment the thicker parts impress into the soft buck.
Durable & Soft Silicon Foams
The Buck of a well-covered press will have some form of metal mesh directly next to the metal Buck. Next will be a single sheet of '1cm thick' perforated Silicon Foam. This is the same for a press or an ironing table. These are designed to help dissipate the steam of the Air blowing evenly across the whole buck.
On the ironing Table will be a 5mm sheet of polyester Felt. On the pressing machine will be a 2cm or 3cm soft Silicone Sponge. The silicone is resilient and will recover back to its original shape time after time.
The top surface will be a durable Woven Polyester cover and the Shaped Pressing Machine will have knitted cover, which will form to the shape of the press.
Hard Cotton Padding
Where cost is a consideration the silicone foams may have been replace with '1cm thick' Cotton Padding. This product is produced from rolls of cotton fibres sewn together.
Because of the ridges a top cover of 5mm Polyester felt is used to smooth the surface before the top
cover is added.
This product is prone to compacting requiring frequent replacement.
Copper or Stainless Steel Gauze’s
These are woven metal gauzes made from, either, Copper, Brass or Stainless Steel.
The copper ones are found next to the heads and bucks of steam presses used to dissipate the steam across the buck. They will have either a thin Polyester Felt or woollen cloth between themselves and the top covering.
All three types are also to be found as top coverings on the head of the press to come into direct contact with the fabric. In this application they are retaining heat to ensure that the steam remains condensed for longer and the direct heat will produce a drying (setting) action with the fabric.
Finely Woven and Rigid, Stainless Steal used as a Head Cover, acts in a similar manner to the direct heat of a domestic electric iron producing a smooth surface and retains the slight sheen on the surface of the fabric.
Knitted Covers – Needle Covers
As stated before the top covers of the heads and bucks are often covered with a knitted fabric to allow the garment to mould to the Press Shape without distorting the fabric or putting creases into the surface of the garment.
Where ‘Face or Pile’ fabrics are to be Shape Pressed and the surface would be damaged by the press head cover as it touched the pile, it is possible to use ‘Needle’ Covers where the surface is a bed of polyester needles. These needles allow the pile to stand between the needles.
Using Woven Teflon
This product is an open weave fabric, which allows steam to pass through it readily. It can be used as the top covering for Ironing tables but is also used in small pieces to prevent impressions from pockets and jacket vents during machine pressing.
Pieces are cut larger than the area to be improved and the edges are frayed to soften them.
They are placed under the offending Pocket Flap or Vent with the frayed areas protruding.
Presentation No. 2
The Quality of Steam
Wet & Dry Steam
What is Steam (Chart of Benefits)?
All Steam begins to condense as soon as it leaves the boiler. (How much Water is there in a Bucket of Steam?)
The degree of wetness depends on a number of factors. The pressure of the boiler (High = High Temperature & Dry Steam) (Low = Low Temperature & Wet Steam). The distance of the press from the boiler can also influence the steam quality.
The steam pressure and therefore Temperature can be reduced at stages along the steam system if there is a need on a particular process.
Why the need for both types
The type of product to be processed will benefit from a particular level of Steam Dryness. In designing a system it is important to understand these needs by either understanding the Fabric Finishing process or having knowledge of the industry.
For example, a suiting fabric which has been Autoclave Decatised (under High Temperature and Pressure) will not take kindly to wet steam. The surface is likely to adopt an orange peel effect as the yarns expand, as they become wet.
Equally, soft knitwear will not benefit from very dry steam, as there will not be sufficient moisture to soften and reset the yarns.
Wet Steam takes longer to dry than Dry Steam.
Relative humidity also can come into effect if the manufacturing unit is in a country with low RH and the garment market is in a high humidity. An attempt must be made to emulate the ambient conditions of the receiving country at the point when the ‘Memory’ is pressed into the fabric.
Failure to get this right could result in the ‘Pressed Finish’ deteriorating in the market country to the mystery of all involved.
(Icomail 1 - Humidified Warehouse to Dutch requirements from Morocco)
Equally, going from High RH to Low RH could result in transit creasing becoming permanent. (Vac Pack Principles)
Steam Lines, Pipes, Valves
This topic is and engineering physics and I am do not profess to be an expert. The issue to be understood is how the system works and to be able to recognise missing components and problem areas
Pipe Sizes and Pipe Runs are important to be large enough to carry the volumes of steam to the process in the best condition, and to return the condensed water back to the boiler and not into the presses or Irons.
Trapping Condensed Steam
The principle here is to remove any condensed water as often as it is created and as near to the joint where it is created.
The First place we find a Trap is immediately after the boiler. The boiler is likely to create some foam, which will carry excess water into the steam pipeline and we need to remove this water as soon a possible.
Every change of pipe height in the factory, every steam pressure reduction point and every piece of process equipment must have the condensed steam (Water) ‘Trapped’ and the water returned to the boiler.
As there are no pumps involved in a Process Steam system, The overall pressure in the system must be sufficient to not only return the water to the boiler quickly but to push it up from the machines to the overhead return pipes
Importance of Pipe Lagging
It important to insulate the Steam and the Condensed Water pipes with a strong barrier product.
Safety from burns is obvious.
Retaining the system temperature is the only way to provide consistent steam quality across the factory to the most distant machine from the boiler.
Vacuum Systems for Drying
Vacuum systems are now an integral service to an efficient pressing system. Self-contained pressing tables generate their own vacuum from a motorised fan within the table base.
Plumbed in Vacuum systems require large pumps to be connected to a network of pipes across the factory to which the pressing machines are connected.
Large Reservoirs are also used to allow a build up of evacuated space into which the air can be sucked. Good design will prevent violent changes to the Quality of Vacuum achieved.
As with steam, Correct Pipe Sizes are critical to achieving a high quality and consistent vacuum for drying the garment at the end of the pressing cycle, across the whole factory.
Vacuum for Garment Holding & Control
With modern pressing machines, the vacuum system is used via the program to hold the garment until the press head closes.
With Rotary Carousel presses it is essential as the turntable revolves to meet the press head.
With Scissors Presses, the safety factor also comes into play, as the operator does not risk trapping fingers holding the garment in place.
If shrinking away of ease is needed during a pressing operation, it can be held in place by the vacuum also.
Compressed Air and Air Blowing
An efficient Compressed Air System is an integral part of all modern factories. Dry, Clean (Free from Oil & Water) air is required for Sewing Machines and Presses alike.
A Sufficient supply of Free Flow Air is required for programmes which use Air Blowing to dry the garment by blowing cold air up from inside the garment (Good for Velvets and Pile Fabrics)
Ironing tables tend to create Air blowing by reversing their Vacuum motors using a dual switch action.
For Press Operation and for Drying
Compressed Air is used to close the head, to swing the carousel, to provide the correct pressure of the Press Head on the Buck, to open and close the Steam, Vacuum and Compressed Air Valves during the pressing cycle
Choice of Boiler Types and Capacities
Vertical, Water Chamber - Gas, or Oil Fired
Boilers have been traditionally heated using Coal fires (Locomotives & Ships), but modern Process Steam Boilers
Electrically Heated Boilers
These tend to be smaller in size used for providing steam to Irons for single, dual or multiple pressing tables. They work on the principle of an electrically heated element located directly in the water in the storage tank.
Steam is taken out of the top of the boiler via a release valve operated by the iron switch.
Horizontal, Tubed, Gas, Oil or Coal Fired
Industrial Boilers today tend to be either: -
Horizontal Tubed where the Fire bases along tubes inside the water tank.
Vertical where the heat source is at the base of the water tank similar to the domestic kettle.
Soft & Hard Water Treatment
The Quality of the water effects the efficiency if the boiler and the amount of unwanted Foam created as the water boils.
Daily Boiler start-up and tending requires that chemical additives to the water are maintained to minimise the effect of local water conditions on steam quality.
Importance of Understanding Each.
Failure to have a working knowledge of the Steam Raising Equipment in use and of how it needs to be managed will disadvantage the Pressing Technician, as they will then be dependent on others whose interests may not be the provision of Perfect Steam.
Using Ionised Water in Ironing
De Ionised water is useful during the final ironing of Body Linings in Jackets as it does not stain or water mark the linings. It can be applied with a cloth directly onto heavy creases or be sprayed on using an Atomiser Bottle.
In some steam installations, Water sprays are taken off of the Condensed water return, however, this water will be contaminated and is therefore not suitable for use on Delicate Fabrics, Light Colours or Body Linings.
Garment Transportation Systems
Needed to move garments through the manufacturing system. From simple portable garment rails to fully automatic systems.
Simple Rail Systems
These can be constructed in simple form from Galvanised piping in round or square form.
Garments can be slid along them by hand if the rail is fixed to the floor.
Carrying rails on Diabolo Wheels
Mechanical Movers.
Mechanical Systems are expensive to install therefore need to be right for the process.
They are labour saving and more predictable if a pre-timed advance system is used.
They can be a factory wide system or just localised to such as the pressing area.
They are useful for moving garments through large areas of the factory.
They are perfect for building in a specific Delay Time.
Importance of Delay Time
This delay time is needed for garments to dry between pressing operations.
If this drying does not occur then the overall finish will not be as crisp and further repressing will be required.
Processing Laundered Garments
The best place to press Laundered Garment is in the laundry itself or as close to it. Laundered garments, which are ‘Dry’ are likely to have high levels of creasing that will make the pressing process more difficult than it needs to be.
The most ideal method is to use a Laundering service close enough to the Garment Factory so that an element of dampness is retained until the garments are pressed.
Sealing the Damp, Laundered Garment in plastic bags is fine as long as they are not allowed to stand for such a long time that mildew occurs and damages the garment.
Working with Shrunk & Creased Garments
The manufacturing process should be designed to accommodate the intended laundering system as it is the presser who will be questioned when the garment size and finish varies when the problem could be in the laundry or in the pattern sizing.
Questions need to be asked such as:
‘Do you want the garment to shrink and be pressed to stay at the smaller size’?
‘Do you want the garment to shrink and be pressed to grow back to its original size’?
‘Have we considered the type of washing and spin drying that the chosen laundry uses’?
‘Will two different laundries shrink the same garments the same amount (important at Pattern Cutting)’?
Health & Safety - Pressing Systems
Steam and Hot Pipes will burn if touched
Presses with automatic functions must be guarded so that hands cannot be trapped in the press.
These machines need to have ‘Two Hand Operation’ to keep the operators hands away from the closing press heads.
Hot Irons must not be left on the press cover to avoid starting a fire (or damaging the press covers).
Health & Safety - Steam Equipment.
Ideally, Presses should be installed to restrict access to the back of the press where the steam pipes are connected
No Steam Pipes or Flexible Steam Cables allowed to be laid on the floor where burn to legs or feet could occur.
All pipe-work within reach of people must be insulated and if necessary have protective barriers around the pipes.
Pipe-work in the areas where presses have been removed from the system should be protected from other operators.
Leaks occurring in pipe-work must be noticed and repaired with urgency
No Safety Valves pointing at where people work
Access to Boiler Houses limited to responsible Engineers.
No unauthorised persons allowed to try and carry out maintenance on Steam, Vacuum or Compressed Air systems.
Presentation No. 3
Jacket Industrial Pressing
IRON SLEEVE MITRES & CUFFS
UNDERPRESS SLEEVE SEAMS
SHAPED SEAM OPENING PRESS
PRESS / SHAPE COLLAR
ADD FUSE TAPE TO ARMHOLES
PRESS POCKET FLAPS
PRESS FRONT DART & SEAMS
FUSE FRONT EDGE SEAM
FUSE FRONT ARMHOLE
PRESS FINISHED POCKETS
ATTACH CANVAS & FUSE BRIDLE
BLOCK SHAPE PRESS FRONTS
FUSE & ATTACH SHOULDER PADS
PRESS OPEN AND SET FRONT EDGES
PRESS OPEN COLLAR SEAMS
WATER SPRAY & IRON LININGS
CLEAN PRESS ARMHOLES
DRAPE PRESS ARMHOLES
SHAPE PRESS LAPELS
FINISHING PRESSING
Trouser Industrial Pressing
SET TURN-UPS - TURN UP PRESS
PRESS BOTH LEGS
PRESS TOPS & SET PLEATS
FINAL PRESS FLY & SEAT SEAM
IRON DARTS & SIDE POCKETS.
PRESS HIP POCKETS
OPEN PRESS LEG SEAMS
PRESS SEAT SEAM & WAISTBANDS
IRON HEMS
Presentation No. 4
Fabric Finishes which Influence Pressing
Silicones - contain polymer materials that have found wide use in industry because of their great stability.
They are available as fluids, sealant-adhesives, mouldable resins, and rubbers.
Some fluid silicones are used in garment finishing, to give a smooth handle to fabrics.
Sizing - Starch Gelatin, Glue, or Wax that is added to fabrics during finishing to improve touch or weight and to help ‘fabric laying’ during cutting.
Sizing also applied to reinforce warp yarns during weaving. Most common starches used are 'Corn' in the United States, Rice in Asia, and Potato in Europe.
Abrasion - Wet processors (laundries) try to make garments look worn or faded by scraping or rubbing the surface of the fabric causing abrasion.
Pumice Stones and Sand are most frequently used. (See Stone Washing).
The Process was patented by the Italian ‘Candida’ Laundry Company in 1986; the finish gave indigo jeans some sharp contrasts.
The process was achieved by soaking pumice stones in Chlorine and letting these stones create the contrast.
Bleaching - An industrial finishing process that takes off natural and artificial impurities from yarn or fabric.
Also a process used by laundries to make denim jeans fade.
Bleach - Laundries use this chemical to make denim jeans fade.
Liquid Bleach is usually an aqueous solution of Sodium Hypochlorite, and dry powdered bleaches contain Chloride of Lime (Calcium Hypochlorite).
Because Chlorine destroys silk and wool, commercial Hypochlorite Bleaches should never be used on these fibres.
Enzymes - Are proteins and as such are present in all living cells.
Enzymes speed up chemical processes that would run very slowly if at all. They are non-toxic and readily broken down.
Enzymes are used in textile processing, mainly in the finishing of fabrics and garments.
Pigment Dyes - Dyes without affinity for fibres and are therefore held to fabric with resins.
They are available in almost any colour and have been used extensively in the jeans wear industry by fabric dyers who want to create fabrics that fade.
The Pigment is released during washing.
Pumice Stones - A volcanic stone used for stone washing garments. Pumice is popular because of its strength and lightweight.
A fabric finishing process where fabrics are sanded (real sandpaper) to make the surface soft without hair.
Can be performed before or after dyeing.
Sandblasting - A laundry process where jeans, before washing, are literally shot with guns of sand in order to make the jeans look as if they have been worn.
While originally done only by hand, this processing has recently become automated.
Chemicals are also now used in many laundries replacing sand.