Technical Training on Fitting of Men’s Tailoring

Structure

1. • Increase their confidence in fitting sessions for Men’s Tailoring
     

   • To provide the technologists with the tools
     

   • To provide a good understanding of the construction and relevence to Cost.
     

   • enable the technologists to assess garments in fit sessions
     

   • to confidently approve or reject these garments.
     

   • To provide a “checklist” of items to look for when assessing a suit during a fit session.
     

   • Use examples from River Island in a practical assessment
     

   • to compare good, better and best products
     

   • understand the contribution in terms of fabric, componentry and construction to the cost of the garments.
     

   • practical assessments comparing River Island products
     

   • group sessions
     

   • handouts where required to use as reference documents.

Running a Menswear Fitting Session

Typical Tools

1. • Critical Path with Identified Development Stages (White Seal / Gold Seal etc – Example - Provided by Merchandiser
     

   • List of Styles to Process / Fit – Example – Provided by Buyer or Buying Assistant (from Supplier requests to fit).
     

   • Male Fit Model or Garment Stand – Actual / Both
     

   • Style Files for each style with all documentation for use in meeting.
     

   • Prepared Comments Sheets by Style – Example – Provided by Technologist for consistent format (or by Supplier in standard format)
     

   • Measurement Chart by style – Example – Provided by Technologist for consistent format (or by Supplier in standard format)
     

   • Tape Measure (and Pins if allowed) or Fault Arrows – Actual
     

   • Suitable Place to Work – Actual

Fitting Meeting - Typical Process

1. • Pre Fit Session - Buying Assistant recieves 2/3 Samples with documentation to comply with appropriate stage of development
     

   • Pre Fit Session - Technologist Inspects Garment for Construction Method and Conformance to Method & Quality Standards
     

   • Pre Fit Session - Technologist Measures Garment and enter findings to Comments Sheet.

   • Target Measurements issued from Previous Assessment/Brief.

   • Actual Measurements of the Garment

   • Pre Fit Session – Technologist Books Fitting Day & Time with Key Decision Makers and inform other participants.

   • Hold Fit Session in the presence of the decision makers (Buyer & Designer) with or without the supplier present.

   • Fit Garments on Male Model or on correctly sized Body Stand. – Fit all pieces of Suits together.

   • Take comments about the garmet being Fitted from the whole Team and determine any dimensional changes required.

   • Note Relevant Comments about Make and Fit on the Comments Form and note any Amendments required.

   • Hold a de-brief with team after suppliers have left (if were present at fit meeting)

   • State on the Comments Form the required date for the next submission for assessment or other action (ref to Critical Path Dates)

   • Update Files with Comments and Target Measurements and distribute back to Suppliers.

Key Assessment Areas – “ We are here to Dress people, not just to Clothe them ”

1. • Finishing Standards for Men’s Tailoring

     1. There is no need to Compromise with Suppliers
        

     2. How does The Garment appear to you?
        

     3. Would you buy it? If not why not? (5 Garments from Stock test)
        

     4. Overall Pressing Appearance
        

     5. Are there Clean Seams – Sewing & Pressing?
        

     6. Does the garment have ‘Shape’ or is it just ‘Flat’?
        

     7. How much Hand Sewing and will it last?
        

     8. How about Fabric Finishing – Has it been Decotised or Just Shrunk or Not Shrunk at all?
        

     9. Is there Crease Resistance or just a Finishing Chemical additive?
        

     10. How good are the Linings – are they Spot Proof – Do they need to be Antistatic?
         

     11. What do you need from your Interlinings – Washable? - Dry Clean? - Low Shrinkage, High Resiliance.
         

     12. Do you know the suppliers and meet with them to keep up with new products?
         

     13. How important is Hanger Appeal to you.
         

     14. How is the overall Hanging Presentation?
         

     15. Is the Hanger Shape appropriate for the garment?

Jackets Appearance

1. • First, Check the Jacket both Inside and Outside before modelling. Turn the Sleeves out to check all of the closures and search for Loose Threads.

1. • Shoulder Line

     1. – Should be clean defining the intended silhouette, supporting the body of that jacket so that there are no drags or loose fabric.
        

     2. The Shoulder Pads should provide the required shape but be sufficiently large and deep enough to support the shoulders of the garment while enhancing the shoulders of the wearer.
        

     3. Are Shoulders Too Square? - The Body of the garment will collapse under the arms
        

     4. Are Shoulders Too Sloping? – The Fronts will fall away when unbuttoned and lift up at athe collar when buttoned

1. • Collar & Lapels

     1. The collar should be shaped ‘in the round’ and sit close into the Shirt Collar.
        

     2. There should be no excess fabric around the fold edge of the collar
        

     3. If a Two Piece Top Collar is used then the Seam should be clean whether stitched or just pressed open.
        

     4. The Under Collar should be of a Soft fabric with a firm thin canvas (linen) interlining, both cut on the bias and shaped to the Top Collar either by drawing the crease edge or stretching the neck edge.
        

     5. The Lapel Crease edge should also sit in close to the body. Its construction should provide a thin fold edge with a soft roll to the top button position. The Crease Line should be ‘Drawn In’ onto a tape called a Bridle, during the attaching of the Chest Canvas, to achieve this good fit.
        

     6. The Back Neck Hanger Loop should be set into the lining seam and secured through the Back Neck for strength.
        

1. • The Fronts

     1. Should be constructed with the types and constructions of interlinings to provide the level of ‘Tailored Finish’ required by the Designer.
        

     2. However, be the Jacket Unstructured or Fully Structured, the shaping, cut and pressed into the fronts, should be Clean, Fitted and Rounded to the shape of the body.
        

     3. The Fronts should sit together naturally at the front edge and not fall away when unbuttoned. They should also not Lift when buttoned. - (We Design the Fronts)
        

     4. Do you know how the Front Interlining System is constructed?
        

1. • The Backs

     1. Should fall cleanly from the shoulders and fit well over the Shoulder Blades, draping cleanly into the armhole and sides.
        

     2. There should be no vertical fabric, draping in the middle of the back. - (and We Tailor the Backs)
        

1. • Vents

     1. in the Back Seam or the Side Seams should hang flat against the body and the Under Side of the vents.
        

     2. A Long Back Balance will cause them to ‘Fly’ open at the hem.
        

1. • The Sleeves

     1. should demonstrate a Clean Line where they meet the Armhole Line which should run from Shoulder End to Waist Line, at both the front and the back.
        

     2. There should be no Breaking of the Back Sleeve Seam at the elbow (The Sleeve could be Pitched too far forward for Hanger Appeal purposes).
        

     3. The Sleeve Head should contain the appropriate amount of Wadding Roll to support the sleeve and maintain the required Design throughout the Size Range.
        

     4. Is there Soft Canvas in the Sleeve Head to maintain the shape?
        

1. • Pockets

     1. Should blend into the garment unless they are intended to Contrast.
        

     2. Jacket Flaps and Welts should lie against the body and be pressed to adopt the curve of the fronts.
        

1. • Jacket Linings

     1. Patterns should be cut and made to fit the body shape. Seams should Mirror the Fabric Panels.
        

     2. Any pockets sewn into the linings should be strengthened along the seams with interlining.
        

     3. Lining Armholes should be secured to the cloth armhole, preferably all around.
        

     4. Body linings should be cut in the same direction to avoid directional shading.
        

     5. It is acceptable to cut Sleeve Linings across the fabric unless they are cut from stripe fabric when the stripes should run down the sleeve.

Trouser Appearance

1. • First, Check the Trouser both Inside and Outside before modelling. Turn the Legs out to check all of the closures and search for Loose Threads.

1. • Fronts

     1. The Upper Trouser Waistband and Fly Fastening must be clean without any drags or pucker.
        

     2. The Left and Right Waistbands should be level at the waist due to correctly inserted zip and Hooks and Bars
        

     3. Trouser Side Pockets should not stand away from the body. Did you consider ‘Pocket into the Fly’ to help achieve this?
        

     4. The upper and lower ends of the Side Pocket Opening should have a reinforcing Bartack for strength and durability.
        

     5. If there is Lining in the Front Legs to below the knee, it should not be in control of the outer fabric. The pattern should follow the pattern of the fabric including any Darts or Pleats and be cut larger to allow for movement without excess or constraint.

1. • Backs

     1. The Upper Trouser Waistband should be clean without any drags or Pucker. The Waistband centre back seam joins should meet exactly.
        

     2. The back darts, of which there are usually one on each leg, should be the same length and unless designed differently, be at 90degs to the waistband
        

     3. Hip Pockets should not Gape open and the Jettings should stay closed along their full length without the need to have the button fastened to hold them together (Style may not need a button?)

1. • Waistbands

     1. The Type and Construction of the Inner Waistband should have been agreed during the Design Stage.
        

     2. Pre-made Waistband Linings construction should comply to the Corporate Branding and any reference to the Brand should be pre-approved
        

     3. The interlining used inside of the waistband and the waistband lining should produce the desired level of control and handle.
        

     4. Hooks and Bars or Press Studs used to fasten the waistband should be made of non-corrosive materials and should be Nickle Free in case they come in contact with the skin during wear.
        

     5. Joining Seams should be neat and durable, particularly where they are visible and come into contact with the wearer.
        

     6. Extension Waistbands or Visible Side Adjusters should be neat and well formed.
        

     7. Where Belt Loops are included, there should be a Design Policy on Minimum Numbers of Loops and Location.
        

     8. Belt loops should be constructed by either Twin Needle cover Stitch or Plain with Felled closure. In either case there should be some internal support interlining.

1. • Legs

     1. The appearance of Trouser Legs when worn should represent considerations made in the Design and Pattern Making.
        

     2. Pressing of the legs with Creases should be both sharp and soft at the same time with unbroken joins between the leg crease and the finishing of that crease through to pleats or darts.
        

     3. Pressing of Tubular Legs (if this feature is ever used) should provide clean legs with no bubbles or drags when worn
        

     4. Seams should not be visible on the outside of the Trouser, either on the Outside Leg or the Inside leg (Impressions)
        

     5. The Leg Shape intended should be known before assessment. (Slim, Parallel, Flared etc)
        

     6. The Fit and Hang of a Trouser should be assessed when worn by a model, stood with his feet apart the same distance as the Gap between the creases at the base of the fly.
        

     7. In this position the Legs should hang cleanly at both front and back and to the side.
        

     8. It is a matter of Design Preference how a Trouser Silhouette should appear.
        

     9. The Fit around the Thigh, Knee and Ankle should be controlled by the identification of Minimum dimentions
        

     10. Minimum Dimensions can be agreed for Plain Front, Darted Front and Pleated Front stylings
         

     11. The Trouser can be assessed by Holding the Legs by the Hem with the Fronts away from the holder. Looking down the legs will indicate if there is any Twist to the Legs or Buckling of the Seams.

1. • Hems

     1. Hems must be clean and neat without any breaks in the securing stitching
        

     2. The Finish of Hems should be pre-determined by Design or Marketing and agreed with the Suppliers.
        

     3. Options may be ‘Unfinished or Finished Hems, with or without Heel Tape. Plain or Turn Up, Narrow Hem or Deep Hem (enough to convert from Plain to Turn Up).
        

     4. The method of Securing Hems so that they are durable in wear, should provide a clean finish without any stitches being visible on the outer leg.
        

     5. The Felling or Blind Stitching method ‘Hemming’ should involve a secure locking off of the stitching row or be double stitched (Twice around)
        

Waistcoat Appearance

1. • Backs

     1. Normally are Two Piece with waist shaping darts. Backs are generally cut from Jacket Body Lining, However, any other variation such as Outer fabric or Striped Contrast Lining should be defined on the Design Specification
        

     2. Waist adjusting Straps and Buckles, if required should be set into the side seams and secured through the back Shaping Darts or with strong Triangular Tacks . Buckles should be non-corrosive metal, Nickel Free and be effective in holding the adjusted position.
        

     3. The Back Hem Seam and the Back Neck Seam should not be visible on the outside of the garment.
        

     4. The Fronts should be made with cloth facings around the Front Edges and along the hem.
        

     5. Fronts should be fused with a single skin of interlining.
        

     6. The Fronts should sit together naturally at the front edge and not fall away when unbuttoned. They should also not Lift when buttoned.

1. • General Considerations

     1. Brand and Care Labeling and any other Customer Information should be defined on the Design/Product Specification.
        

     2. All Labels and Ticketing should be checked before approval at any stage.
        

     3. The Facings within the pockets should have all visible edges, turned in and edge stitched for durability.
        

     4. The Methods used to close around the Pocket Bags should be pre-approved to a Corporate Method and Durability Standard.
        

     5. Pockets on Jackets and Waistcoats may have the openings partially closed to keep the front clean during transit and in store presentation. These closings should be with a large stitch to allow easy removal by the customer. Too Tight a stitch may leave the customer thinking there are no usable pockets.
        

     6. Buttonholes should be sewn using either a ‘Cut Before Sewing’ Eyelet Buttonhole machine, or as is more usual, a ‘Cut After’ machine set to show the imitation Hand Stitches on both inner edges ensuring there will be no freying to these cut edges.

The number of stitches should be sufficient to cover the fabric without and gaps or without stitch jamming.

The closing Bartacks should be set to the exact width of the tails of the Button Holes.

7. The Buttons should ideally be sewn with a Special Machine designed to Sew the Buttons through the folded edge of the fronts, just catching the inside facing to secure it without showing a bunch of Knotted Stitching on the inside. The same machine, should sew a whipping stitch around the neck of the button to create a neck long enough to allow the Button to sit in the eye of the buttonhole without any jamming.

1. • 8. If a separate Whipping machine, is used where the whipping thread is bonded to form a solid Neck to the button, the method used should ideally be Heat Seal. Acetone, chemical systems are in use but these are not user friendly.

     9. Some Companies allow Trouser Buttonholes to be of what is known as the ‘Fishtail’ type. If this method is chosen there is no closing Bartack used. Instead, the machine is adjusted so that the sides of the Buttonhole extends beyond the centre cut and then cross over forming the Fishtail. This type of Buttonhole is not traditional and is not clean as the ends of the threads are exposed.

1. • 10. Spare Buttons, if provided should be in a pre described location on the garments.

Construction List for:

1. • 1. 1. 1. A typical Manufactured Jacket
              

           2. A typical Manufactured Trouser
              

           3. A typical Manufactured Waistcoat

Componentry and Quality

1. • 1. 1. 1. Body Linings – Sleeve Linings – Trouser Leg Linings – Anything Goes
              

           2. Interlinings –
              

              1. Canvases – Front, Chest, Collar
                 

              2. Woven, Knitted & Non Woven Fusibles
                 

           3. Pocketing – Jacket & Trouser
              

           4. Buttons – Natural : Horn, Corozzo Nut, Mother of Pearl, - Man Made :Polyester, Casin
              

           5. Zips – Trouser, Metal, Polyester Spiral, Reverse Spiral
              

           6. Trims – Tapes, Ribbons, Adhesives, Hooks & Bars, Waistband Lining, Elastics
              

           7. Thread Type and Strength – Sewing 120’s, Top Stitch 75’s 0r 30’s, Button Hole 75’s & 30’s, AMF or Complett or Columbia 100% Silk or 75’s, Felling 300’s, Overlocking 250, White Basting 50’s
              

           8. Example of a Componentry Specifications & Books
              

           9. Specialist Suppliers
              

           10. Fit for Purpose and Durability