Madrid 2023

A Three Night Visit to Madrid, November 2023

We arrived on time at 18:30 from La Palma with Iberia at the impressive Terminal 4 Madrid Airport. Terminal4 is a distance from the other terminals but it does offer train service into the city.  The train stalled for a while part way in, but once we reached Recoletas Station, we were on foot. We had a small treasure hunt to get the keys for our apartment, going to another nearby address to collect the keys from a mailbox before settling in to the slightly bohemian one bedroom in the central Chueca, on Plaza Pedro Zerolo, close to Gran Via, a major downtown street. We went out again to do some evening food shopping at San Anton Market.

Madrid was an add-on to our trip. It was a transit hub, and we added a couple of days. We were half expecting single digit Celcius temperatures and rain, so we were pleased with the 14C and sunny weather. It was our first visit to the Spanish capital and we were pleasantly surprised by Madrid. Our central apartment was a blessing and a curse because we walked everywhere. I ran a GPX track: we walked 23km the first day and another 24km on the second day. 

We arrived at Madrid from La Palma, Canary Islands

We took the train from Terminal 4 to Recoletas and walked to our apartment from there

We rented a slightly bohemian one bedroom apartment on Plaza Pedro Zerolo, central Madrid.

We got going a little after 9:00am to a still slumbering central Madrid. We walked down Gran Via and along Paseo del Prado towards the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. I spotted a bus with a Monet Exhibition advertisement and that  was added to the day's itinerary. There was a small queue waiting when the Thyssen Museum opened but it didn't take long for everyone to disperse in the large space.  The Thyssen is owned by a foundation of family money and the art collection is impressive. While the Prado receives much attention, the overall theme to our visit to the Thyssen was it was quiet.

Gran Via, the next morning. At 9:15am, Madrid is barely awake.

Gran Via: quiet sidewalk at 9:15 am

Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum

The artist who painted this “Portrait of Giovanna Tornabuoni” (Domenico Ghirlandaio) taught Michelangelo how to paint.

It was fairly quiet in the Thyssen Museum (Paul Gauguin's Mata Mua on the left).

Admiring a Sisley painting (A Forest Clearing)

"Smoko, the Human Volcano" by Reginald Marsh was a fun piece.

"Thunder Smash "by Charles Bell had energy

I wish I could dream like Salvador Dali 

Pablo Picasso, Woman in an Armchair

Degas: Swaying Dancer

Pissarro's Rue Saint-Honore

Back out on the streets of Madrid, we made our way west in the direction of the Royal Palace. 

We passed through Plaza de Canalejas

Puerto del Sol, Madrid

We had pre-purchased entry tickets for 13:30 but we were there half hour early, but that didn't seem to matter. We joined the herd for a walk through the Royal Palace. Photos were not permitted in the core parts of the palace. 

Madrid royal palace courtyard

Madrid Royal Palace

They don’t make ceilings like this anymore 

Chapel in the Madrid Royal Palace

The Royal Palace armoury collection is amazing 

We walked east and then north to Chueca and  our apartment for a short mid afternoon rest.  We had 16:00 entry tickets for the travelling Monet exhibit at the nearby Cultural Centre.

Back on Gran Via

Interior of Círculo de Bellas Artes (cultural centre)

Monet Exhibiton

Monet Exhibiton

Monet Exhibiton. Walking near Argenteuil

We paid the small entry fee to the roof area of the Cultural Centre before heading home and dinner. The unit owner, Iñigo, dropped by as we had an inquiry about the non-functioning microwave, that he sorted out. 

Rooftop view from the Cultural Centre

Moon rising over the Cultural Centre

Cactus garden in our apartment

It was the first night of the Madrid Christmas lights. It was so busy that some pedestrian streets were one-way, enforced by police. 

One way pedestrian street near Plaza del Callao

Calle del Arenal, near Puerto del Sol

This was our local Christmas tree at Gran Via 

On the 2nd day, we went to the Prado and we were some of the first people in. Photos are not allowed inside, so I downloaded a few photos from the Prado website. It was busy, especially with groups. The Prado features many older paintings, some of which are gigantic. We walked through the museum quickly, stopping at paintings of interest.

Prado Museum

Goya statue outside the Prado Museum

Mona Lisa, Prado Museum. Yes, Leonardo painted several versions around the same time. 

Fra Angelico, The Annunciation

The Garden of Earthly Delights is absorbing but it was monopolized by tour groups and blabbering tour guides, so it was hard to get a thorough look at it. 

This large Reubens would be too big for our living room. 

The Prado has a collection of massive paintings. This Padilla is 5 metres wide. 

Goya, Witches' Sabbath is over 4 metres wide.

Back out on the Madrid streets, we first went south to the Atocha train station, but it was under renovation. Then we meandered west through a variety of neighbourhoods returning home to the sunny apartment for a breather. 

Plaza Tirso de Molina

Calle de la Cava Baja

Plaza de la Villa

Common site in Spanish supermarkets, carving the jamón

Gran Via metro

Wow clothing store, Gran Via

We made a second evening walk, going a little further to the Christmas market at  Plaza Mayor. It was just as busy as the night before.

Pedestrian street north of Gran Via

Puerto del Sol

Plaza Mayor

Our time was up in Madrid and Spain. We had a mid-day flight from Teminal 1. We wandered over to an airport bus stop, but ended up taking a van with other tourists for the same price. That was it.

This enterprising taxi driver trolled the airport bus stops, filling the van for the same price as a bus fare. 

End of the party at Terminal 1, Madrid airport. Time to go home. 

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