Traveller Range Laura Peaks

Discovered a full report on the walk and updated the page on 7 November 2020

15 - 20 March 2001

Summary

Boat taken to lake shore at Sappho Creek and climb to Traveller Range via Lake Laura. From there over to Lake Reingeena, Ling Roth Lakes, Chinamans Plains and down to Lake Meston thence through Never Never and finally along overland track to Narcissus.

Detailed

Difficulties had arisen to our planned walk to the Eldon Range and a new venue had to be found. In the short time we had to think about it, the Traveller Range came to mind. This walk had been attempted in October of 2000, but snow stopped us getting anywhere near.

The plan was to head for a rarely visited corner of the range directly above Lake Laura, so the walk became known as Laura Peaks.

Mid March was chosen and a favourable weather forecast saw us get off the Lake St. Clair boat at outlet creek from Lake Sappho then walk up the shore until approximately in line with Lake Laura. After a little bit of scrub we arrived at the lakeshore and surveyed the ridges leading to the Traveller Range. Alan thought it may be best to stay in valley forest between two ridges for as long as feasible and we found it contained pleasant rainforest trees that made for easy walking.

Eventually steep country was met and after quite a grunt uphill a lookout provided an ideal late lunch location perched above the lakes from where we had come. After the earlier exertions it was hard to summon up the energy to move at more than a plod and all felt a bit sluggish and it seemed to take an inordinate time for the last small climb to crest the range. Once there we were met with pleasant views of lakes and gums with Mt.Spurling in the middle distance. After some toing and froing we made camp in some very pleasant lakeland. Constantly whilst wondering through this gently undulating part of the range we were able to enjoy glimpses of small lakes and tarns through the snow gums.

A fine warm morning encouraged us to head to Lake Reingeena where the sad sight of fire devastated pencil pines was the only blight. As we crept around the slopes above the lake a fine view of Mt.Ida brought out the cameras and likewise soon after the untouched pine forest by the attractive northern shoreline. The pines here were dense with lots of undergrowth, including fagus and it was great to see things in such a wild state, although it did make it a bit of a relief to reach the openness of the beach at the head of the lake.

Later whilst having a break on a high rocky ridge, Alan checked out the weather report on his radio and told us that “the drought was about to break” with heavy rain expected overnight. As mid afternoon approached we were overlooking Ling Roth Lakes and made the decision to cross on the land bridge between the northern and middle lakes. This proved to have a bit of scrub, especially in the lower reaches, but more importantly did not present much open ground in which to pitch tents. A pretty tight fit amongst fagus bushes would have been just possible, but would have had some difficulties.

With the first preview of the rain upon us we moved on hoping for better camping, and although spots were about there was no water until rounding a hill, close on an hour later where a valley with tarns unfolded before us. This looked ideal, but on closer inspection there was minimal clear ground and with darkness fast approaching and showers falling things started to look a bit grim. Clive, however managed to find open ground with ample space and with relief we raced to put up tents.

Cooking had to be done in the vestibules and with this out of the way it was not long before the rain became heavy. It is comforting to feel safely in a bag inside the tent with the rain coming down. As it was constant and heavy I checked from time to time to ensure that no water was coming in, for although our site was on the top of a mound there is still often a bit of uncertainty that creeps into the mind.

Misty condition next day restricted visibility and made the GPS a very handy instrument for negotiating the way across Chinamans Plains to our destination of Lake Meston. The weather improved next day making the journey down beside the Mersey with stops at the waterfalls very pleasant. On a few occasions we discovered we were not on the pad and once below McCoy Falls it was really just a matter of wondering along the river banks enjoying the peace and serenity of the bush until arriving at a delightful campsite in an opening in the myrtle forest.

Our final day necessitated a brisk pace in order to get to Narcissus in time for the boat. It was a delightful day weatherwise and we spent as long as could be spared at Hartnett and Fergusson Falls, then it was over the land bridge and on to the Overland Track and the regular sight of other people.

Party was Alan, Dave T, Clive & Peter

Notes on the walk.

Boat taken to lake shore at Sappho Creek and climb to Traveller via Lake Laura. From Lake Laura it is best to keep in the rainforest between the two ridges for as long as reasonable then ascend on the western ridge, which is quite steep but without cliffs. The plateau is good walking with many lakes and on approaching Mt.Spurling it is possible to go north of it or walk on the south side beside Lake Reingeena . A fine pencil pine forest exists at the northern end of the lake. Climb higher on what is virtually the crest of the Mts of Jupiter until overlooking Ling Roth Lakes, this is good open walking country with tarns and snow gums. There is a choice of land bridges to pass through towards Chinamans Plains. The descent either way is through scrub, especially as the lake shore is approached. The north bridge between the northern and middle lake sections has fagus bushes and only very small tent sites; it is poor camping and much better to push on the small lakes over the hills to the NE. Walking becomes easier with lessening scrub and eventually the more open terrain of Chinamans Plains is reached.

An album of 16 photos is at this link this is pre digital and not as many photos taken in those days.