South West Bays 1998

South West Bays Circuit 7 - 15 Feb 1998

Our flight left at 7am on Saturday 7^th but although the plane could manage all 5 members of the party, 2 packs had to wait for a later flight. As a consequence it was not until after mid day that we commenced walking to New Harbour. Although the day was fine and sunny the predicted weather change started to move in during the afternoon and the first shower arrived not long after setting up camp. As they were not overly frequent we did manage to cook outside and to drink the port David had brought.

Overnight rain persuaded us to wait until 10am before departing for Wilson Bight. The steep climb from New Harbour gave us good views of all the fishing boats that had moved in for shelter and it was not long before Hidden Bay was reached. The track to Ketcham Bay was good, with one small steep section that I had forgotten existed, and the weather by now was allowing fine views. After lunch in the sun at the bay, the hour long climb to the top of the Amy Range commenced followed by an easy ridge descent to Wilson Bight. Camp was made on a small point towards the western end of the beach and the remainder of the afternoon spent wandering that end of the beach.

Overnight rain continued into the next day and although it was not heavy the visibility and comfort level that would have been encountered crossing Mt.Karamu and the South West Cape Range easily encouraged us to stay put for the day. During a break in the weather a native tiger cat was met at close quarters in the entrance to a sea cave during a walk to the east end of the bay.

The following morning, Tuesday 10^th arrived with sun and accompanied by mist rolling down from the nearby ranges. This gave alluring views and it was a pleasure wandering about the beach in such still balmy atmosphere. However, the serious business of ascending to Mt.Karamu, traversing along the South West Cape Range and descending to Window Pane Bay meant the departure could not be delayed too long.

From Wilson Bight it is quite a steep and continual climb up onto the high plateau leading to Mt.Karamu for about an hour. With the summit ridge in sight the mist began to roll across in earnest and apart from a couple of very brief breaks the visibility for the remainder of the day was severely diminished. After walking along the top of Mt.Karamu Allan suggested we call a halt in the hope of getting a sufficient break to allow a view of the way onto the South West Cape Range. An early lunch was taken but still no vision so a bearing was used and in due course the ridge tops started to lead up higher until the main ridge line of the range was met. Along the range we met a pad and this was followed until it ran out, at which point we headed in the direction that we believed would bring us to the staked route from the Melaleuca Range that leads down to Window Pane Bay. By good fortune this track was met fairly quickly and then began the long descent with the cloud cover only giving out at around the 100 metre level.

The camp site lay in a delightful setting under tall tea trees on the bank of Window Pane Creek and it was nice to think that in a few days we would again have the pleasure of this spot. Morning dawned still and sunny and gradually the remnants of misty clouds rolled away from the mountains to reveal a clear blue sky. It was ideal for roaming the beach which had steep sand dunes on the northern side of the wide flowing creek and ended at the southern end with cliffs and mountains climbing straight up from the sea. The track from Window Pane Bay leads through coastal bush until coming out onto a hillside to reveal the spectacular headlands and islands of Island Bay. The scene was idyllic on such a peaceful day and this ambience continued as the hill tops were crested for the panorama of Noyhener Beach, the outlying islands and beyond to Port Davey. It was here that we came upon a party heading south, with the familiar faces of Reade Allingham, Sandra Petrie and Greg Downer. After an encounter with the scrub we arrived on the rocky coast just south of Noyhener Beach; it was a pity that the track did not lead right onto the beach as it was necessary to time several steps to coincide with the tide.

Dave Harris’s notes indicated that the best camp was the second one upstream of Murgab Creek and which was reached by wading it. Robyn went to a marked entrance (which we assumed to be first camp) whilst Dave and I went upstream then waded through deep water to the opposite bank only to find Robyn already there. David followed us but Allan, who having been there before, arrived dry along the correct entry track. This comfortable and sheltered spot was to be our home for two nights.

Noyhener Beach is backed by large dunes which are in places quite eroded of vegetation, especially near the campsite; it looks like a battleground of nature. Unfortunately strong winds developed overnight, bringing in cloud with occasional showers. The day was spent walking to Stephens Bay, with the first obstacle being Chatfield Point. Allan lead around a rocky shore followed by Robyn and Dave, but when Dave slipped into the sea (ankle depth only) I along with David decided to try the overland way. This proved slower and we still had some rocky shore with tidal challenges before we again met up with the others at an enormous aboriginal midden at the start of the beach. This was very impressive, but a sand blow had made a large impact that had pushed inland for quite a distance.

Both Noyhener and Stephens beaches had chunks of fishing boat wreckage and with the huge seas thrashing onto the coast it was understandable why the boat was in so many pieces. The walk along Stephens Beach was into strong sand whipped wind and it was a relief to climb onto the track to Spain Bay. Just before reaching the bay a sudden downpour hit and we took shelter and put on overtrousers, but it was not long lasting, which enabled us to appreciate the beautiful sheltered Spain Bay with its golden sands. Return was by the same route until reaching the midden sand blow, at which point we walked inland and crossed to Noyhener; saving a bit of time and avoiding the problems with the incoming tide. During the crossing we came upon a sizeable grassy opening in a pure tea tree stand, from where a distinct waterline on the trees was most noticeable.

Strong winds persisted on our return day to Window Pane Bay and the consequent waves frighteningly impressive. It was especially spectacular when the views to Island Bay were reached; for what had been tranquil two days ago was now a scene of wild crashing waves smashing onto the rocks. Whilst sitting quietly on a log not far from the tents, I heard a rustle and looked up to see a wombat with her baby strolling past; it reminded me of Janine and little Emily.

After a night of frequent showers it was with gratitude that the following day was considerably calmer and the clouds somewhat higher and less threatening. The climb onto the South West Cape Range was considerably easier than expected, but we had to descend steeply through wet baura to the upper reaches of Window Pane Creek before climbing again, to the Melaleuca Range.

Once on the ridge tops it was easyish walking to Mt.Melaleuca. Whilst the others stopped for a drink I continued on to the summit, but on looking back noticed the rest of the party heading away. This was puzzling, but being out of voice range I decided to follow, only to reach their packs and find them climbing the mountain from another flank. So I climbed Mt.Melaleuca twice in the one day. The afternoon brought us down again steeply and across the plains to Melaleuca.

The party Allan Cross, David Hardy, Robyn Loughhead, Dave Harris and Peter Franklin