Prince of Wales Range Feb 2000

Just as we arrived close to the summit block of Mt.Humbolt the weather finally closed in and the desire to reach the top disappeared as did the view and so began the long struggle to descend and walk out. That was in 1992 and reaching Mt.Humbolt, which had looked such an interesting mountain, remained as an objective. Dave Tucker suggested returning and on hearing this Dave Harris was quick to climb on board, so we had the nucleus of a party.

Whichever way the Prince of Wales Range is accessed usually involves several days and plenty of thick vegetation. But there is an option of boating to Pearce Basis on Lake Gordon and crossing the lowest hills allowing the Denison to be reached in half a day. Arrangements for transport were worked out between Dave Tucker, Pat Barrett and Mike Robinson and eventually an offer from Police Search and Rescue was taken up.

We met near the Lake Gordon power station and set off; taking two trips to get everyone to the starting point. A taped route lead up hill and although the way ahead became unclear on reaching a button grass area, it wasn’t long before we realised the logical direction and soon found ourselves in a forest that had some tapes and vegetation cleared. Walking had not got underway until about 1:30PM and the day was very hot, with the result that stops were needed regularly and when open slopes were reached these stops became very frequent as we wilted under the heat and dryness. Eventually riverine forest was encountered followed by a flowing creek to quench our thirst and as just after 7:00PM the Denison River was met with some considerable relief. The river was flowing strongly and looked deep, but after checking up and down and discussing whether it would be better to wait until morning, we eventually plunged in to the waist deep water and crossed in groups of four.

Rain delayed departure next morning and after an hour walking up river we lunched, then crossed and walked up the scrubby plains to cross the river again to camp close to the foot of the climbing ridge to Mt.Humbolt. A fine and pleasant temperature day and fairly inoffensive scrub allowed us to ascend at an excellent pace and have plenty of time to wonder about on summit area. The route through to a high plateau in the north became an interesting exercise with the party spread about searching for a way to get there until Clive and I managed to find it. This gave us the advantage of being able to pick the choicest spot with a stupendous outlook over the ranges and valleys both to the east and the west. And with a lovely mild evening and ample time it was pleasant sitting back preparing a meal and just gazing about.

The Humbolt or southern end of the range comprises rugged quartz peaks, cliffs and splintering gullies interspersed with small alpine plateaus. Below to the east lies the wide Denison valley and river flanked by the craggy peaks of The Spires Range and numerous peaks beyond, whilst numerous valleys and small snaking ranges lead the eye westward to the dominant mountains of the Frenchmans Cap Park. As the Prince of Wales Range bends its way to the distant north high herby plateaus gradually become scrub or buttongrass as the height drops to the lower central section of the ???? kilometre long range.

That evening and again in the morning there was a splurge of photography, some of it straight out the tent door. As the sky began to lighten quite exquisite colours began to fill the horizon eventually revealing mist filled valleys below, so by now I began to feel that negatives of the first two days had been well and truly countered. Both the day and the terrain, apart from the scramble to descend and then ascend Princess Peak, started out pleasantly, but it grew warmer and scrubbier the further north we walked. Water also became harder to find as the day wore on and there was precious little near our campsite just short of the cliffs of the middle peaks of the range. Both Dave Tucker and Pat seemed to particularly be feeling as they spent the best part of an hour seeking shelter under a tent groundsheet. It sure was nice to feel the sting go out of the day once the sun dropped below the horizon.

Day five of the walk actually started out with a cool southerly breeze and some cloud and this made for reasonable comfort during the ascent of the waiting cliffs and high country, where the pleasure of a running creek was encountered. In fact at a rest break we actually had to shelter from the coolness of the breeze. From our campsite of the previous night the range commences to gain height and as it moves north also attains a greater degree of ruggedness with sharply slashed crags leaning eastward with cliffs along the opposite side. Diamond Peak now frequently comes into the picture dramatically pointing skyward.

From the previous trip I knew that after the cleaved peak ahead there should lay a small pond and then we would have to drop off the side into scrub in order to skirt the cliffs. We did not see the pond, possibly because we went directly over the top of the peak and missed it off to the side, however the place to drop below the cliffs looked familiar to me. Dave and Clive both were doubtful and felt it was further on, so after looking about the majority opinion was chosen and a scoparia filled gap chosen to descend.

Thick scrub totally dominated the steep slopes and after a while we ventured higher to check out possible way to ease the effort. Mike Bowden was keen to go to the top and whilst he did this Clive also checked out the top. Both reported with optimism, but Dave and I both knew that chasms would have to be negotiated and if they had previously forced ourselves and other parties to choose the exertion on the slopes then the best option was to continue on our present course. At this point Allan started off down only to suddenly and frantically try to retrieve his previous position with the aid of a small tree, but was unsuccessful and he disappeared along with the tree over a small drop; Fortunately Allan was unhurt. It was now pretty warm and uncomfortable and the scrub mostly well above head height, so each person took a five minute turn at leading until a lunch stop was called.

Over lunch several in the party were suggesting that we try for get a bit higher, especially as it looked better just above our current position. This sentiment prevailed, but a risky small climb blocked the way and sidling again was the only safe option and after much hard work the ridge line was finally and very thankfully met just south of the Diamond Peak campsite. This exit point was further on than what was desired and looking back it was possible to see roughly where we had descended on previous trip. This confirmed the opinion that Dave, Clive and I had formed soon after reaching the top of the range, that it was much easier to navigate from north to south than the other way. In all it had taken nearly six hours as against close to five on the 1992 trip.

Water was again very difficult and we had to resort to siphoning water from a hole; a process that was very time consuming and tedious. Before retiring for the night I paid a visit to Dave Tucker and Pat because I wanted to see how they were coping. Pat had been struggling a fair bit from day one, firstly from cramp and then from the effects of the climb to the range followed by the hot, dry and scrubby conditions. Dave was also noticeably flagging by the end of the previous day and neither was eating much food. The situation seemed unchanged this night and having suffered similarly on a trip the year before felt some concern, but fortunately the cooler early morning next day brought an improvement and both were back on food; Pat reckoned taking some Panadene Forte had done the trick.

This our sixth day commenced with an ascent of Diamond Peak, with mist gradually parting the closer we got to the top. The views were not as extensive as they would have been on a clear day, but the atmosphere brought on by the mists was more than compensation. Dave Harris, as could be predicted, was gleaming from gaining all the points he so savoured; he must have been a bit worried overnight though as rain had starting falling during the dark hours of morning which must have raised some doubts about the possibility of getting to the top.

Some disagreement arose about our route north as I thought it ran directly under the cliff face of Diamond Peak, and Allan thought the same. Dave Tucker, on the other hand was adamant that we had to walk under some cliffs lower down. Dave was proved to be correct and I was forced to pay a debt of fruit drops to him. Our next cliff line actually provided the closest thing to tension in the party. Dave lead under it but came to more cliffs and suggested the top as the way, but this just put us in a worse position. Allan rushed back to the original way only also to be turned back. The only avenue left was back a bit and lower and fortunately Mike Robinson located a pad here and from that point onwards we managed to have a pad for much of the time until the button grass near the end of the range was reached later that day.

In the middle of a Melaleuca filled saddle we stopped for lunch. By now the day was fairly warm and Clive and I sat back under the canopy of the bushes to escape the heat of the sun. Marsh flies swarmed about and a fairly constant wave of the hand was needed to keep the irritating beasts from attempting to bite. Certainly not an overly pleasant lunch break and again water was far from plentiful, with a couple of yabby holes being the only source.

As we travelled along ridge tops and through scrubby saddles at least there was the comforting thought that tonight fresh running water would be available. On reaching the basin below Observation Peak the campsites previously used were gradually revegetating, so a bit of farming became necessary. Morning saw us climb Observation then head down the ridge towards Algonkian Mountain. The ascent route was on a fairly broad sloping ridge and although we changed leaders every 5 minutes the going was pretty good and certainly a lot better than the descent route used in 1992.

I noticed Mike going to assist Clive who was standing still with a hand over his eye. Unfortunately Clive had run into the end of branch and was in some discomfort, however I and probably everyone else assumed things would come right fairly quickly and in fact that appeared to be the case because Clive started walking again after a short break. He had to make several other stops on the way because of the eye, but none of us, probably not even including Clive, thought the injury would become a major problem.

On the upper slopes King Billy pines became prominent and much of the walking was over thick beds of needles, until arriving in an open area that had been subjected to a bushfire. Here scoparia was growing thickly but with sufficient gaps to enable us to weave through it to the summit. Moments before arriving coats were needed as it started raining and as soon as the top was reached the fleeting views of the country ahead was blotted from view. Dave Tucker took a bearing and we soon descended back to pines, although it did take a while to discover the little creek and camping spot used on the earlier trip.

It is always good to get inside the tent during rain and get into some dry clothes and after completing this I set out about getting tea. It was at this point that the realisation of Clive’s injury started to become apparent, because he had difficult in even opening his good eye to eat. On finishing his meal Clive was keen to just lie back down. After cleaning up I too settled down for the night and tried to remain fairly quiet as it did appear that Clive was sleeping soundly, but a few hours later he started to spoke about the fact that he was in very great discomfort and was fearful of be able to walk out tomorrow. Dave and Pat were close by and, overhearing, queried if Clive would like something to help reduce the pain. At first Clive declined then within 10 minutes or so changed his mind and Dave brought over some Panadene Forte together with an eye patch, both from Pat’s comprehensive first aid kit. Thank goodness for Pat.

Morning finally arrived and discussion took place as to what we should do. This took place whilst we remained in the tents as it was still a bit wet out, and apart from Dave and Pat most were not able to visually check out Clive. Nevertheless it was decided to set off Pat’s EPIRB on the top on Algonkian. Dave and Pat set off to do this and Mike Bowden and Dave Harris and later Pat set about clearing the vegetation to make it easier for Clive to walk to the top.

Pat reckoned that at least two hours would elapse before a helicopter even got near, but we heard after not much more than an hour. This caused an almighty scramble to get Clive dressed, out of the tent and onto the summit. But frustration soon set in as we could see two helicopters searching way down in the valleys and not come anywhere near where we were. This went on for over an hour before they left, presumably to get refuelled. One returned in the early afternoon, but again concentrated on the valleys, but eventually a fixed wing plane arrived and headed directly to us and the smoking fire we had lit from Scoparia. When the sighting was passed on the helicopter arrived and soon Clive was departing for Hobart.

We on the other hand had not a lot of day left and it was a rush t get packed and descend, at first through quite thick scrub, followed by a very steep ridge to the valley floor. A rushed walk through a mixture of old burnt scrub; regrowth tea tree and open leads brought us to the Jane River Track just on dark. Tents were set up on the track and tea eaten in the dark with the mosquitos before heavy rain and wind set in for much of the night. Morning saw an improvement, but it was a very wet tent to pack for the long walk out. Pleasant sun arrived which made travelling along the overgrowing and at times mossy-bogged track.

Clive had been instructed to let Sandra and Sue know of our new exit point and they turned up in the late afternoon to collect us from the Franklin River picnic spot.