Scotland! An assortment of images come to mind: a land of redheads, men in kilts, scotch drinkers, bagpipes, impossible accents, and let’s not forget the Loch Ness Monster.

This week Sue will take us to Scotland to debunk these myths (or at least some of them), and in particular we’ll focus on two major cities: Edinburgh and Glasgow.

First: what’s with that accent? Scottish people speak English, but their dialect is influenced by the Celtic language Gaelic (which came from Ireland). Scotland definitely still reflects its Norse heritage.

For centuries the relationship was contentious between the Scots of the Highlands and the Celtic Scots and the Anglo Saxons of the Lowlands region. Those Scots from Orkney and Shetland also kept their own culture and stay separate from the Scottish majority. Today we see a greater mix of ethnicities as the country opened to immigrants and expanded as part of the European Union (but was part of Brexit in 2023).

Unlike its Irish neighbor, religion has not been a conflict zone for the Scots. The Church of Scotland (a variety of Presbyterian) is the main religion.

Scotland is known for its agriculture, including farming and raising livestock. Because of its many forests, the timber industry has contributed to the country’s economy.  The fishing industry is also central to Scotland’s survival and prosperity.

Scotland used to depend on coal as its main mineral resource. But more recently Scotland has developed offshore oil reserves, as well as natural gas resources.  Scotland is also known for its ship construction and other manufacturing industries.

Scotland is considered part of the United Kingdom, so it is represented in London by members of Parliament. The Scots hold elections to appoint their representatives in the House of Commons. A prime minister is the head of government in Scotland, and the head of state is the British monarch.

Let’s just say: it’s complicated.

Human civilization in the Scottish region traces back to the 3rd millennium BCE. Historians speculate that Middle Stone Age fishermen and hunters crossed from the continent to Scotland over a land bridge.

The following timeline outlines the major periods of Scotland’s history.

10,000 BC: The Palaeolithic Era

The period of earliest known occupation of Scotland by man is from the Palaeolithic era – also known as the Stone Age. Hunter-gatherers hunted for fish and wild animals and gathered fruit, nuts, plants, roots and shells.

3,000 BC: Neolithic Age

The earliest prehistoric tools found still surviving in Scotland date from 3000 BC – during the Neolithic age Scotland was home to nomadic hunter-gatherers as well as the first farmers who built permanent dwellings. The remains of domestic and ritual buildings from this time make up The Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site. Visit UNESCO for more information.

124 AD: The Roman Empire

Scotland’s recorded history began with the arrival of the Roman Empire. Despite building two impressive fortifications – Hadrian’s Wall to defend the northern border, and the Antonine Wall across Central Scotland to advance it forward – the Romans never truly conquered Caledonia. Unable to defeat the Caledonians and Picts, the Romans eventually withdrew and over time retreated away from Britain. Much of the 60km Antonine Wall survives and it was inscribed as a World Heritage Site, one of six in Scotland, since 2004.

1100 AD: Becoming a feudal society

In the 12th century the Kingdom of Alba continued to grow and became a feudal society. The Treaty of Falaise, signed by William I, ushered in a period of relative peace in Scotland. During the reigns of Alexander II and then Alexander III, more land was turned over to agriculture, trade with the continent bolstered the economy and monasteries and abbeys grew and flourished around the country.

1297 AD: Fighting for Independence--Battle of Stirling Bridge

A succession crisis brought unrest to Scotland after the death of Alexander III. England’s monarch, Edward I, believed he should be recognised as overlord of Scotland and his troops marched north in a series of bloody sieges. In 1297, Edward’s army planned to cross the River Forth at Stirling Bridge; the Scots seized the opportunity to attack at the crossing of the River Forth, the Stirling Bridge, forcing the English army to retreat. It was here one of Scotland’s most famous figures, William Wallace, earned his place in the history books forever.

In 1320, a letter written in Latin, signed by Scottish Barons and Nobles, and sent to Pope John XXII, the Declaration of Abroath proclaimed Scotland’s status as an independent sovereign state. Though its effect was largely symbolic, the powerful declaration remains an important document in Scottish history – many historians believe it inspired America’s founding fathers to write the United States Declaration of Independence.

1450: Union of the Crowns: Renaissance in Scotland

The cultural, intellectual and artistic movement that took hold around Europe brought significant changes to Scotland; education, intellectual life, literature, art, architecture, music and politics all advanced in the late 15th century.

1542: Queen of Scots

Mary, newly born at Linlithgow Palace, was just six days old when her father, James V, died and she was crowned Queen of Scots. Her reign was marked by Catholic-Protestant conflict and civil unrest in a period known as the ‘rough wooing’. In England, worried about the possibility of a Catholic plot against her, Elizabeth I imprisoned Mary and later, after almost 19 years of captivity, had her executed at Fotheringhay Castle in Northamptonshire in 1567 at the age of 44.

James VI succeeded the throne at just 13 months old after Mary was forced to abdicate. When Elizabeth I died with no children, James VI succeeded to the English throne and became James VI & I – a historic move that’s now known as the Union of the Crowns.

1707-1746: The Act of Union

In 1707 The Act of Union brought Scotland even closer to Britain by creating a single Parliament of the United Kingdom of Great Britain at the Palace of Westminster.The Battle of Culloden in 1746 was the final Jacobite rising and the last battle fought on British soil. The Jacobites were no match for the Hanoverian army – the battle lasted just an hour and the army was brutally crushed.

1746: Highland Clearances

Shortly after the defeat of the Jacobites at Culloden, a period known as the Highland Clearances began. A number of laws were introduced in an attempt to assimilate the Highlanders; wearing traditional tartan attire was banned and clan chiefs had their rights to jurisdiction removed.

1750 and Onwards: The Age of Enlightenment

The ideas from philosophers living in Scotland during The Age of Enlightenment shaped the modern world. The intellectual movement sought to understand the natural world and the human mind and ranged across philosophy, chemistry, geology, engineering, technology, poetry, medicine, economics and history. Figures like Thomas Hobbes, David Hume, Adam Smith, Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott are still celebrated for their achievements.

1800

Industrial advances and wealth accumulated from the trade of tobacco, sugar and cotton bring about the dawn of urban Scotland at the turn of the 19th century. The country shifted from rural to urban, and huge towns, massive factories and heavy industry took hold. Mining, shipbuilding and textiles were very important to Scotland’s development during this time.

The Twentieth Century and Beyond

Scottish soldiers played a significant role in the First World War and Glasgow’s Clyde side was an important centre during the war as well – products from the shipyards, steel works and iron foundaries were vital to the war effort. 

The 60s: North Sea Oil

The drilling of the first North Sea oil well was considered a major industrial achievement of the time, creating a huge supporting industry in Scotland and giving the UK access to oil made at home for the first time.

Films like Braveheart and Trainspotting helped to establish Scotland as a cultural powerhouse; authors, artists and musicians from Scotland were enjoying renewed success. The global phenomenon, Harry Potter, was written in Edinburgh, and in 1997 scientists from the Roslin Institute successfully cloned the first mammal from an adult cell, Dolly the Sheep.

Today Scotland has the second largest economy of the United Kingdom. For centuries the economy was closely linked to the overall economy of the UK, and England is the main trading partner.

Scotland harvests, uses, and trades its forestry products, some agricultural crops, and its fishing and fish farming products.

Scotland still has a strong manufacturing economy (it was a powerhouse during Europe’s Industrial Revolution). Some its unique goods include whiskey (no surprise!), shortbread, and textiles. More recent products include computer software, oil and gas, ships, and microelectronics.

There has more recently been a rise in the service economy, and tourism has also increased.

There are several related concepts that help us understand what we might consider unique qualities of Scottish culture.

Let’s look more closely at the history of Scottish clans, the meaning of tartan, and the story behind the kilt. And for good measure, we’ll also take a look at Scottish whisky and the sonorous Scottish bagpipe.

One of the most recognizable symbols of Scottish clans is the tartan, a distinctive pattern of colors and stripes woven into fabric. Each clan had its unique tartan, serving as a visual representation of their identity and affiliation. Tartans were traditionally used in kilts, plaids, and other clothing items, becoming iconic symbols of Scottish heritage.

By this point, improved trade and communication links between northern and southern clans were already leading to the dilution of the clan system and the infamous Highland Clearances effectively signaled the end as thousands of Scottish land workers were evicted, with some emigrating to distant shores.

Today, many clans can be traced back to a specific part of Scotland, for example the MacLeods of Skye, the MacNeils of Barra or the MacNabs of St Fillan on Loch Earn. If you have ancestral ties and a clan history in Scotland, a trip to your clan’s homeland is an incomparable and moving experience like no other.

It was often thought that people with a clan surname were direct descendants of the clan chief, but it was also common to adopt a surname when land was taken over to show solidarity and ensure protection with the clan.

Beyond the clan connections, the origins of other Scottish surnames are varied. The same name can also have multiple spellings, due to there being no standard spelling rules for many years, so many variants exist. McNeil, for example, is also spelt McNeill, MacNeil, MacNèill, MacNeill and McNeal!

Family connection was also a feature. For instance, if Peter has a son called John, John's surname becomes Peterson, meaning "Peter's son". Names also derive from where people lived, for instance, Murray from Moray in the North East.

Professions also played their part - such as Baxter (baker), Webster (weaver) and Brewster (brewer), as did influences from Norse (Gunn) and Irish immigration during the 19th century (Daly or Dailly).

When the nights became cold, this garment was easily removed and spread out to create a blanket to keep the person who owned it warm. Lastly, if the army needed to move with a much quicker force, the garment could be easily removed, thus allowing the soldier more freedom of movement.

Today the kilt is the national dress of Scotland and worn by many. The various plaids that one can see from time to time are the colors of the particular clan that the wearer belongs to. It is much shorter than the ones worn by the Highland armies of yore, but still evokes the pride that was carried by those who lived above the land of Scotland.

The first record of Scotch whiskey was back in 1494!  James IV was king of Scotland at the time and he called this spirit “water of life.”  

When Britain ruled Scotland, the whiskey was illegal, and only barber surgeons could use and sell it.  But it was still common in churches, businesses, and households.

Two events in the 1800s changed the course of Scotland’s whiskey production. In 1822 Sir Anthony Perrier improved the distillation process by inventing a different kind of still. Around the same time, an insect infestation destroyed brandy production in France. This led to greater demand for an alternative spirit: Scotch whiskey.

What’s so special about Scotch? First, it’s the ingredients. By law it must be made with Scottish water, yeasts, and grains. Another unique aspect is the double distillation process. Genuine Scotch whiskey must be matured in oak casks for at least three years!

There are four different varieties of Scotch (single malt, blended malt, single grain, blended grain). The whiskey quality produced in each of five regions (Highland, Speyside, Lowland, Cambelltown, and Islay) is distinct.

If you're interested in Scotch whiskey.... check out Jeff Bareilles full article (below).  Extremely informative.

This is why the bagpipes are associated with Celtic and Gaelic cultures.  Bagpipes became the instrument of choice (replacing the trumpet) in highland courts. The Highland bagpipe is the most well-known.

The Highland bagpipe was seen as an instrument of warfare; it was used in many battles over the centuries. The sound of the bagpipes apparently inspired troops and spurred them on.

Edinburgh has been the capital since the 15th century.  Today it’s the center of the Scottish Government and the home of the Scottish Parliament.

Edinburgh is steeped in history.  The city is divided into two parts, divided by Princes Street. Old Town is more than 600 years old, and reflects the city’s medieval roots, with dense alley ways, cobbled streets, and the iconic Edinburgh Castle. North of Princes Street is New Town (over 200 years old). In contrast, New Town has a symmetrical layout following a Neoclassical design. It’s a busy urban hub of commerce and business.

Visitors to Edinburgh follow the “Royal Mile,” which is a connection of streets that link the Castle at the top of the hill to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, a mile down the hill.

What’s so special about Edinburgh?

Many of the events listed on our historical outline occurred in this capital city.  The Celtic tribes settled the area and fended off a succession of invaders, including the Romans.

King David I founded the royal burgh in the early 12th century. The city was ruled by the English as well through the 16th century. In 1603 King James VI of Scotland took over the throne and helped unite the Scots.

Defensive walls were constructed around Edinburgh. This is why, as the population increased, the houses grew taller (11 story structures were common—“skyscrapers” of old. These structures, over time, were replaced by the Victorian buildings found in Old Town today.

By the mid-1700s, Edinburgh was one of the most populated and overcrowded cities in Europe. One little known fact is that social classes shared the same urban space, so that even in tenements we would find tradesmen sharing a building with the more professional classes. This gives a sense of Edinburgh’s innovative spirit and creativity.

The later part of the 18th century was called the Scottish Enlightenment. Philosophers like David Hume, Adam Smith, and Joseph Black felt free to publish and teach in Edinburgh. The city was also the center of the Scottish book trade.

But into the 1900s, Edinburgh kept up with more modern times and developed as an industrial center. Industries included printing, brewing and distilling (perhaps this ties back to the oft-mentioned occurrence of scotch whiskey in Scotland), rubber, and engineering.

By 1821, Glasgow outpaced Edinburgh as the largest city. Still Edinburgh expanded, though its infrastructure was shaky. In the 1860s Lord Provose William Chambers commissioned rebuilding of the slum areas that are now seen in Old Town today.

The city developed more of a financial district in the 1990s, as well as an international conference center and a large business and technology park.

There are three universities in Edinburgh: the University of Edinburgh, Heriot-Watt University and Edinburgh Napier University.

Established by royal charter in 1583, the University of Edinburgh is one of Scotland's ancient universities and is the fourth oldest in the country after St Andrews, Glasgow and Aberdeen.

This makes Edinburgh a highly educated and literate community. As you might expect, it has a higher standard of living than other places in the UK, and is wealthier.

In addition to brewing, distilling, and publishing, Edinburgh has developed an economy based on financial services, scientific research, and higher education. In fact, Edinburgh has the strongest economy of any city in the UK except London. The highest percentage of professional in the UK live in Edinburgh. It is considered the most competitive city in the U.K.

Tourism contributes greatly to the country’s economy.

In terms of governance, Scotland is represented in the United Kingdom Parliament, but it also has its own parliament. There are 32 council areas of Scotland. These councils have power over local matters such as housing, planning, parks, economic development, and transportation. Representatives are elected by their area constituents. The current Prime Minister is Humza Yousaf (hmmm…. Wonder what Scottish clan he came from? :-)

Did you know that in 2004 Edinburgh was named the first UNESCO City of Literature?

This list reflects quite a literary tradition:

• Adam Smith (Wealth of Nations)

• James Boswell (biographer of Samuel Johnson)

• Sir Walter Scott (author of Ivanhoe)

• Robert Louis Stevenson (Kidnapped; Treasure Island; Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde)

• Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (Sherlock Holmes)

• Muriel Spark (The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie)

• Alexander McCall Smith (No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency series)

• J.K. Rowling (she wrote Harry Potter in Edinburgh coffee shops)

Other famous names associated with Edinburgh and Scotland:

• John Napier (inventor of logarithms)

• James Clerk Maxwell (founder of electromagnetism)

• Alexander Graham Bell (inventor of the telephone)

• Charles Darwin

• Sean Connery

• Jethro Tull

There is more than a bit of sibling rivalry between these two sister cities. Here are some facts about Glasgow.

Glasgow is a city in west-central Scotland. It lies along the banks of the River Clyde and is Scotland’s largest city. Glasgow’s Gaelic name, Glaschu, means “green glen.”

Glasgow began to develop as a settlement in about  550 AD when Saint Kentigern, or Saint Mungo, built a religious community there. In 1136 construction of the Glasgow Cathedral began. The first stone bridge over the River Clyde was built in 1350. The city started to grow significantly after 1603, when Scotland and England merged into one kingdom.

Glasgow became a great trading center by the 1700s. The Clyde was deepened so boats could sail farther into the city. The Industrial Revolution brought many different kinds of manufacturing, including coal mining, shipbuilding, and soap making, to Glasgow.

Like Edinburgh, Glasgow offers a wealth of cultural experiences. The historic district, Glasgow Cross, preserves streets and buildings from the 1600s and 1700s. It also houses many cultural institutions, including the Scottish Opera, the Scottish Ballet, the Royal Scottish National Orchestra, and a number of parks and museums. Glasgow is also a center of higher education. The city is home to the University of Glasgow (founded in 1451), the University of Strathclyde (founded in 1796), and Glasgow Caledonian University.

Glasgow has Scotland’s largest urban economy. The city is the second largest shopping center in the United Kingdom. Its economy is based on services, such as financial and business services and tourism. The city is also host to many other kinds of businesses, such as engineering and manufacturing.

Glasgow has undergone many changes in the past 100 years. The factories declined in the 1900s, but the city developed new businesses, especially in the service sector, by the early 2000s. The United Nations group UNESCO recognized Glasgow as a special city of culture in 2008. The city hosts many musical and cultural events every year.

Hopefully this lesson addresses some of those images and stereotypes mentioned in our introduction. I hope you are impressed by this small country’s big accomplishments, and that you better understand how these two great cities represent the history and culture of Scotland.

And to set the record straight, not everyone in Scotland plays the bagpipes or drinks scotch, some modern men do wear kilts, Scots do have red hair, and there is no Loch Ness Monster!

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