This project aims to address the need area of gear retrieval during climbing. When trad climbing, lead climbing, and sport climbing, climbers are often forced to leave gear behind in order to descend the route.
If a climber reaches the top of a route, there is a means to secure themselves before descending. Chains and mussy hooks are the two most common methods for a climber to secure their rope before descending. Both methods provide two points of failure, which increases their safety. When a climber secures themselves to the chains or mussy hooks, they can descend and retrieve their quick draws, cams, or nuts.
However, if a climber does not reach the top of the route, they are forced to repel using one of their carabiners. Depending on the type of climb, several pieces of gear may need to be left behind. For example, the image to the left shows a cam, carabiner, and dog bone. If a climber used this system to descend, they would lose the gear.
Leaving behind gear when a climb is not completed is a major pain point for climbers. It is inconvenient and expensive to replace gear that is not retrieved during a climb. Through this project, we will explore user needs, generate potential solutions to these needs, and prototype them to evaluate their feasibility.
Depending on a climber's expertise and risk tolerance, there are several different existing methods for descending a route without leaving gear behind:
Chains or mussy hooks: The easiest and preferred option, chains or mussy hooks are present at the top of a route and allow a climber to retrieve all their gear. A climber feeds their rope through the chains or mussy hooks, detaches their gear as they descend, then pulls one end of the rope through when at the bottom of the route.
Rappel from the top of the wall: If the top of the wall can be accessed, a climber may rappel down to the point where they left their gear to retrieve it.
Downclimb: A climber may take their quick draws as they descend, leaving themselves secured only by the gear below them. This presents the potential for a longer fall if the climber loses their holding.
Lead climb an adjacent route: If a climber is able to climb a route that is close enough to the gear left behind, they can swing over to retrieve it.
Rely on the kindness of fellow climbers: A stronger climber may be able and willing to climb the route in order to retrieve the gear.
Current solutions to retrieving gear are dangerous or strenuous. At the end of a hard climb, a climber may not have the strength or energy to climb other routes or down climb in order to retrieve gear.
Additionally, protection is expensive - quickdraws range from $7-$20 each, and cams can range from $50-$200 each. Leaving gear behind is expensive, as it will eventually need to be replaced if a climber wants to safely climb another route. A one time purchase of a device that would save a climber from multiple hefty expenses would be well beyond worthwhile.
Finally, when it comes down to it, climbers should be safe. Trying to retrieve inaccessible gear or climb later with less gear than what is required or recommended puts climbers at risk of serious injury or death. If a climber can't afford to get new gear, they will either climb without the proper protection or quit climbing, depending on the level of risk the climber is willing to take - regardless, both options are not ideal. If a device can protect a climber, keep them in the sport, and save them money, then that device would be in high demand.
Climbing is a sport that provides both a mental and physical challenge, as well as the benefits of spending time in nature. It's unique appeal draws in nearly 8 million people each year to participate. Through climbing, many people find community, physical exercise, and an outlet to push their own limits. We find it worthwhile to explore a need area that adds value to so many people's lives.
For all its benefits, climbing also comes with some risks and inconveniences. Gear failure or user error can lead to frustration in the best cases and serious injury or death in the worst cases. Although many innovations have been made in the climbing industry, we are excited to bring a fresh perspective to our chosen need area. Our goal is to develop a solution that can make climbing more enjoyable, accessible, and safe.