Sewing in the PML
THE SEWING MACHINE IS CURRENTLY BEING REPAIRED. WE HOPE TO HAVE IT BACK FROM THE DEALER IN 3 WEEKS - 4/5/2024
About
The Physical Media Lab houses a Bernette 38 Sewing Machine which is available for use to MML members after a comprehensive online training, which can be found below. Once completed, you will be given swipe access to the PML.
The Bernette 38 is a fully functioning machine, that can sew through several layers of denim at a time. It has several advanced features such as:
automatic thread cutter
automatic needle threader
auto-lock threading
start/stop button, removing the need for a foot pedal.
variable speed control
decorative stitches and memory function
basic letter embroidery.
We also have some additional resources at the bottom of this page related to sewing to help get you started!
Policies
What We Strive to Provide:
In addition to the machine, we aim to provide, though can not always guarantee, the following as part of our sewing service for trained members:
All-purpose 100% polyester thread in Black and White
Sewing machine needles in a variety of common sizes
Seam rippers
Measuring tapes
Pins
Bobbins
Washable grease pencils
Fabric scissors
Access to an iron and ironing board
Some common sewing feet
Paper for pattern-making
Rulers
A small supply of scrap fabric pieces for training
The materials we provide are not free consumables for the taking, and are intended to be used within the space for the sewing service, so please make sure tools and other materials stay available for the next user.
What You Must Provide:
Outside of what we provide, if needed, you will be expected to bring your own supply of:
Colored thread or specialty thread
Fabric
Bias tapes
Buttons
Zippers
Stabilizer
Trim and other notions
Elastic
Specialty sewing feet or needles (such as twin or leather needles)
Quilting templates
Patterns
Additional Policies
First come, first serve. There is currently no reservation policy, but please be mindful of others needs.
Try to limit sewing sessions to under 4 hours: there is only one machine to be shared by members so in an effort to be courteous to others try not to monopolize the sewing service.
Do not use experimental materials or techniques that could damage the machine: The sewing service is meant for use with traditional garment, fashion, and electronic wearable projects. Please do not use unconventional materials. If you are not sure about wether your material is safe for the machine, email us at mml@brown.edu.
You may not remove the machine, cart, or materials provided from the PML space.
You must turn off or unplug any equipment you have used: Such as the sewing machine, iron, etc
You are expected to clean up your station and put all materials back on the cart at the end of your session. no overnight or long-term projects are allowed out on the tables
Only use equipment you have training on. Having access to the PML for the sewing service does not give you permission to use other equipment without taking the appropriate training first.
Training: Using the Sewing machine Safely
In addition to the policies above, this next section will provide an overview of how to safely use and operate the sewing machine during common sewing tasks. Review the sections and then take a short online quiz at the end of the training. If after the training you are unsure and would like to meet with a staff member, email us at mml@brown.edu
Common Operations of the Machine
The following three videos assume the user is familar with using sewing machines and demonstrate how to use this specific machine. If you unfamiliar with sewing machines, we recommend you watching this longer but more explanatory video from 00:00 - 21:00
Getting Started:
Plugging in and turn on
Using the extension table
Its worth mentioning that due to the height of the tables in the PML, using the foot pedal is difficult, therefore we recommend using the start/stop button and variable speed control
Bobbin Winding and Threading:
engaging the bobbin winder
loading the top plate bobbin holder
proper threading
using the automatic needle threader
Sewing Features:
selecting 3 stitches: straight, zig-zag, and overlock
Changing stitch width and length
Use reverse stitch, auto lock stitch and auto thread cutter buttons
Changing the Needle
Needles should be changed based on:
project needs: finer fabrics use smaller needle sizes, while thicker fabrics use larger needle sizes
Wear: Needles eventually lose sharpness. If you feel the needle is struggling to sew, best to change it out, rather than risk bending it and ruining either your fabric or the machine.
Discarded needles should be deposited in the appropriate container on the sewing cart.
Important controls on the sewing machine
for those familiar with sewing machines, the next section just reviews where important controls are on the Bernette 38Auto thread locking button.
Reverse Stitch button
Start/Stop Sewing button
1.secures a stitch in place without the need to reverse stitch. Useful for decorative stitches or embroidery
2. causes the machine to sew backwards over a previously stitched sections
3. Start/Stop causes the machine to start sewing
Needle up/down button
Auto thread cutter
Variable speed control
moves the needle to its highest point, or lowest, useful for threading the needle or navigating tight corners
cuts your sewing and bobbin thread for you. Use while presser foot is still down.
determines how fast or how slow the machine sews when using the Start/Stop button
Presser Foot Tension
Thread Tension
Bobbin Winder
will ususually stay at "6". For very fine fabrics, tension can be reduced to allow easier feeding of material
usually set between "3-6" The higher the number the tighter the tension of the thread.
Winds bobbin with thread. Push to the right to wind bobbin using the Start/Stop button. Must be pushed back to the left to begin sewing
a. Stitch width control
b. Stitch length control
c. Mode (more stitches)
Straight stitch
5. Zig Zag stitch
8. Overlock stitch.
Straight stitch will always start in the middle width. Good for non-stretch materials
5. Zig zag is good for stretch materials.
8. Overlock stitch is great for finishing seams and reinforcing seams like arm holes.
Auto Needle Threader
Presser Foot Up/Down
Bobbin plate
Bobbin plate release
used to thread the needle
when ready to sew, bringing presser foot down sets tension and engages the feed dogs to move fabric along. Bring up with done with stitch to release fabric
protects bobbin from dust. Do not lose
Releases bobbin plate so you can remove or add a bobbin
Handwheel
The Handwheel will allow you to manually move the needle up and down. It can be useuful to engage the needle in this way when going over difficult fabrics, such as where many seams overlap or sewing sequins.
you must be signed into your Brown email account to access the form below. click on the Header Link above as a back up
Not seeing anything above? Reauthenticate
Resources
Where to get fabric
Outside of your typical Joanne's Fabric, there are alot of great places you can get fabric!Your Closet!
Consider upcycling! Your closet may have alot of great fabrics. Simply use one of our seam rippers to take your clothes apart for fabric, or for making patterns
Lorraine's (local)
Lorraine's is in Pawtucket and easily accessible via bus. They have a huge selection of clearance fabrics starting at $2.99 a yard. They also have lots of trim, notions, etc.
Lorraine Fabrics, 593 Mineral Spring Ave, Pawtucket, RI 02860
FabScrap
FabScrap is focused on sustainability. It is located in Brooklyn and will ship deadstock or otherwise salvaged fabric to you for a very reasonable price. You can also get fun "scrap packs" based on color or type of fabric.
Creative Reuse Center
Focused on sustainability, the Creative Reuse Center of RI, takes interesting discarded donations, like sewing patterns, fabric, leather, etc, and sells them to DIYers at a very affordable price!
991 Waterman Avenue East Providence, RI 02914
Useful websites and resources
FreeSewing is open source online platform to help you generate custom sewing patterns based on your unique measurements! They have an online tool that will generate sloper or block patterns that you can then download, print, construct on 8.5x11 paper, giving you a reliable base with a solid fit. You can also use this platform to make your own designs!
Yes, that Mood, from Project Runway! Mood's online blog is an amazing resource, offering everything from dozens of free sewing patterns, sewing tutorials, and fabric guides with tips and tricks on how to manipulate and work with all different types of fabric.
Helpful Videos
Using a Seam Ripper
Pinning your fabric for sewing
Pattern Making with a French Curve Ruler
Body measurements for drafting a custom bodice
Ironing your seams