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Watch curators from our Fashion & Textiles and Asia departments as they join forces to unpick the mysteries of this intriguing ensemble...
At first glance we appear to have an 18th-century gentleman's waistcoat and banyan – a popular European style of gown, not dissimilar to a dressing gown – which has been made in Italy. However, a close inspection reveals that the fabric is a luxurious Chinese silk embroidered with peacock feather threads, that was once destined to become an impressive dragon robe for the Chinese Imperial Court.
Join Susan and Sau Fong as they compare the ensemble with historic dragon robes in our collection to understand how the Italian tailor skilfully adapted this piece into a European-style garment, and ponder who it might have belonged to.
Find out more: vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion
Video & Text by the V&AJoin Senior Curator Christine Checinska as she examines Imane Ayissi's striking fuchsia couture ensemble from his Autumn/Winter 2019 'Mbek Idourrou' collection. Comprised of palazzo trousers and a satin cape fringed with luxuriously long Madagascan raffia, the ensemble creates a mesmerising sound. Rectangular in shape, the cape drapes ingeniously around the back and shoulders, elegantly coming to life when worn.
Born in Cameroon in 1969 to champion boxer Jean-Baptiste Ayissi Ntsama and Julienne Honorine Eyenga Ayissi – the first Miss Cameroon, Imane Ayissi founded his eponymous label in Paris in 2004. He is known for his glamorous collections which mix beautiful textiles from the continent with classic French couture techniques and silhouettes, and his designs have been worn by names such as Zendaya and Angela Bassett.
See the ensemble in the Africa Fashion exhibition until 16 April 2023: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/afr...
More about Imane Ayissi: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/fashio...
Video and Text by V&ATogether we discover a new fashion temple in Paris: the Dior Gallery! Super opportunity to review or learn about the house's history, where it all began. The spectacular staircase covered with miniature dresses, the Diorama - ma Mia! The beginnings of Christian Dior! His iconic dresses! His office! His cabin! Hélène Starkman and Olivier Flaviano, the people in charge of the place, give us plenty of anecdotes.
Film in French with English subtitles.
Video and Text by Loic PrigentDr Samuel Ross, founder of men's fashion brand A-COLD-WALL*, describes his clothing as “armour for the now” – a personal, protective architecture for the body. Combining elements of sportswear, industrial design, and sharp tailoring, A-COLD-WALL* is revolutionising contemporary streetwear.
This film looks in detail at the Converge Gilet – a signature garment conveying protection, utility, and masculinity – now in the museum's collection. Ross explains the form and function of the piece and its inspiration, from his own fascination with raw materials like alabaster, to diverse historical art references and 20th-century public housing.
Find out more about the Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear exhibition: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/fas...
See more in our Fashion collection: https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fas...
Video and Text by V&AA tour of the Mode Museum in Antwerp, Belgium. Guided by the museum's Director and Chief Curator, Kaat Debo.
Video by Bliss FosterRevealing and celebrating the male body, Edward Crutchley's flamboyant fashions subvert the history of menswear, disregarding traditional gender norms.
This film takes a detailed look at a sumptuous gown by Crutchley, with a corseted bodice which was inspired by an 18th-century robe à l'anglaise, but adapted to fit a male torso. The dress comes from his Spring/Summer 2022 collection, which references the history of queer spaces in London, and specifically the work of 18th-century textile designer Anna Maria Garthwaite – an outsider working in a male-dominated industry.
Find out more about the Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear exhibition: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/fas...
See more in our Fashion collection: https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fas...
Video and Text by V&AWondering what to do now COVID restrictions are no more? We've put together a guide to take you through the must-see current exhibitions in London and New York.
Text by the ShowstudioAn exhibition at Shanghai's Power Station of Design museum showcased 130 pieces of work by British, Turkish-Cypriot fashion designer Hussein Chalayan that explore his career, themes of race, culture and migration.
Click on title to go to article.
Read more about the exhibition on Power Station of Design's website here.
Article & Text by Dezeen.Fashion in Motion is a series of live fashion shows at the V&A featuring leading fashion designers from across the world.
The V&A went behind the scenes to find out about what inspired Fredrik Tjærandsen's colourful yet enigmatic bubble garments, and what they represent.
See the show highlights here:
Find out more: vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion
Video & Text by the V&AThe first UK exhibition exploring the work of Spanish fashion designer Cristobal Balenciaga opened in London on May 2018.
The exhibition at London's Victoria and Albert Museum primarily focused the designer's most creative years in Paris in the 1950s and 1960s - but also examined his Basque roots and his legacy on contemporary designers.
Video & Text by AP ArchivePeek inside the now-closed exhibition celebrating the rare genius of Martin Margiela.
The exhibition presented the most comprehensive retrospective of the Belgian designer’s work to date. With more than 130 pieces on view, it followed Margiela’s oeuvre from his first collection, shown in 1988 in Marais, to his very last day at the namesake brand.
Video & Text by Sleek MagazineHow might we design clothes without harming the environment? Fashion curator Elisabeth Murray shares how Vivienne Westwood designed a dress using naturally sourced Amazonian wild rubber.
Find out more: vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion
Video & Text by the V&AJoin dressmaking expert and V&A volunteer, Sue Clark, as she examines one of the most iconic ensembles in post-war fashion, Christian Dior's 'Bar' suit. How was the suit constructed? And why was it hailed as 'the New Look'?
Find out more: vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion
Video & Text by the V&AJoin Senior Curator Sonnet Stanfill as she examines Schiaparelli's uncanny evening dress, superimposed with the outline of skeletal bones.
Get closer than ever before and see how padding, zips, and quilting have been used to construct such an elegant yet surreal garment.
Find out more: vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion
Video & Text by the V&AElsa Schiaparelli (1890 – 1973) pushed boundaries as a fashion designer, transforming functional items of clothing into unique style statements.
Her evening suits embody the height of 1930s haute couture, owing to their intricate embellishments, luxurious textiles and severe tailoring. Her collaborations with Surrealist artists like Salvador Dali produced provocative, even shocking designs. Theatrical accessories such as the shoe-shaped hat, her ‘Tears’ dress patterned to look like torn flesh, and the uncanny ‘Skeleton’ dress complete with the dramatic outline of bones, represent Schiaparelli at her most radical.
Find out more: vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion
Video & Text by the V&A// Listen with headphones for the best experience //
Follow Senior Textile Conservator Susana Fajardo as she works on a sequinned clown costume worn by 20th-century clown Jackie Sloan.
Sound designer and performance-maker Julie Rose Bower has documented Susana's steps using ambisonic sound, letting us get closer to the object than ever before.
See the painstakingly delicate processes involved as dust is carefully removed, corrosion is reduced, and sequins are gently cleaned.
Take a look at more costumes in the V&A's Theatre and Performance collection here.
Video & Text by the V&AJoin Co-curator of the Mary Quant exhibition, Stephanie Wood, as she explores Quant's trailblazing PVC rainwear collection, launched in 1963.
Quant's innovative experiments with this futuristic plastic-coated cotton were worn by celebrities like Cynthia Lennon, and graced the cover of Vogue magazine. Find out why Quant was "bewitched… with this super shiny man-made stuff and it’s shrieking colours", and what makes the 'Christopher Robin' rain smock in our collection one of the rarest examples.
Find out more: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/mary-quant
Video & Text by the V&AThe global spike in Covid-19 cases has caused in-person events—including the fashion weeks—to be cancelled, digital presentations mounted in their stead. Exhibitions have gone a similar route, with digital showrooms cropping up since March 2020.
This year brings a stellar selection of fashion exhibitions which dig deep into style history—see: the retrospectives of Martin Margiela or Thierry Mugler. There are also roundups on the history of handbags, 18th-century shoes and even a new fashion museum in Belgium that celebrates the likes of Raf Simons and Ann Demeulemeester.
While you’re staying at home, why not check out some virtual fashion exhibitions online, or some in person later in 2021, when it’s safe to do so? From London to New York and Paris, here are the top 16 fashion exhibitions to catch this year.
Click on title to go to article.
Article by W Magazine, Image The MoMu Fashion Museum AntwerpLoic Prigent visits the LUXES exhibition at the MUSEE DES ARTS DECORATIFS in Paris, and is guided by the two LUXES exhibition curators, Cloé Pitiot and Olivier Gabet who explain several of the masterpieces on display.
The exhibition explores perceptions of luxury through the ages and from all corners of the world. Showcasing over-100 objects, the majority of which come from the permanent collections of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, loans come from the Musée du Louvre, the Louvre Abu Dhabi, the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, the Musée du Quai Branly, as well as from some of France’s most prestigious design houses.
For more information about the exhibition click here.
Text & Video by Loic Prigent & Musee Des Arts DecoratifsWatch an extended preview of the Costume Institute’s 2020 exhibition, About Time: Fashion and Duration. The exhibition will trace a century and a half of fashion—from 1870 to the present—along a disruptive timeline, on the occasion of The Met's 150th anniversary. Employing Henri Bergson's concept of la durée (duration), it will explore how clothes generate temporal associations that conflate past, present, and future. Virginia Woolf will serve as the "ghost narrator" of the exhibition.
Text & Video by The METJoin Tate curators Gregor Muir and Fiontán Moran as they discuss Warhol through the lens of the immigrant story, his LGBTQI identity and concerns with death and religion.
Meet the man behind the brand. It's a Warhol you might not know, with some artworks you may not have seen before.
Video by the Tate ModernPUNK: Chaos to Couture, organised by The Costume Institute, examines punk's impact on high fashion from the movement's birth in the early 1970s through its continuing influence today. Featuring approximately one hundred designs for men and women, the exhibition includes original punk garments and recent, directional fashion to illustrate how haute couture and ready-to-wear borrow punk's visual symbols. Here, curator Andrew Bolton takes us through the groundbreaking exhibition and discusses the relationship between the punk concept of "do-it-yourself" and the couture concept of "made-to-measure.
See the exhibition's web feature: www.metmuseum.org/punk
Article & Video by The MetGallery views of The Costume Institute's Autumn 2016 exhibition, "Masterworks: Unpacking Fashion," narrated by Assistant Curator Jessica Regan.
Article & Video by The MetRei Kawakubo is the first living designer given a solo show at The Met's Costume Institute since 1983. See her work up close in this 360 video.
Article & Video by The New York TimesGallery views of The Costume Institute's spring 2016 exhibition, Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology, narrated by exhibition curator Andrew Bolton.
The Costume Institute's spring 2016 exhibition, presented in the Museum's Robert Lehman Wing, explores how fashion designers are reconciling the handmade and the machine-made in the creation of haute couture and avant-garde ready-to-wear.
Text & Video by The META virtual tour and documentary of the Christian Dior, Designer of Dreams Exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris.
For the Vogue France article regarding the virtual exhibition please click here.
Image & Video by DiorGallery views of The Costume Institute's spring 2017 exhibition, Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between, narrated by exhibition curator Andrew Bolton.
The Costume Institute's spring 2017 exhibition examines the work of Japanese fashion designer Rei Kawakubo, known for her avant-garde designs and ability to challenge conventional notions of beauty, good taste, and fashionability. The thematic show features approximately 140 examples of Kawakubo's womenswear for Comme des Garçons dating from the early 1980s to her most recent collection
Text & Video by The META virtual tour of the current Comme Des Garçons Exhibition at National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) in Melbourne. For the e-book accompanying the exhibition please click here.
London-born fashion designer Lee Alexander McQueen (1969 - 2010) was renowned for his conceptually daring and beautifully crafted ensembles. His theatrical catwalk shows are now the stuff of fashion legend, and his work remains hugely influential. In this film, McQueen’s friends, family and contemporaries reflect on the life and extraordinary career of fashion’s ultimate ‘enfant terrible’.
For more information about the exhibition at the V&A click here.
Text & Video by the V&AThe exhibition, organised by The Costume Institute, celebrates the late Alexander McQueen's extraordinary contributions to fashion. From his Central Saint Martins postgraduate collection of 1992 to his final runway presentation, which took place after his death in February 2010, Mr. McQueen challenged and expanded the understanding of fashion beyond utility to a conceptual expression of culture, politics, and identity. His iconic designs constitute the work of an artist whose medium of expression was fashion.
The exhibition features approximately one hundred ensembles and seventy accessories from Mr. McQueen's prolific nineteen-year career. Drawn primarily from the Alexander McQueen Archive in London, with some pieces from the Givenchy Archive in Paris as well as private collections, signature designs including the "bumster" trouser, the kimono jacket, and the three-point "origami" frock coat will be on view. McQueen's fashions often referenced the exaggerated silhouettes of the 1860s, 1880s, 1890s, and 1950s, but his technical ingenuity always imbued his designs with an innovative sensibility that kept him at the vanguard.
Text & Video by The METAndrew Bolton has curated some of the most innovative exhibits the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute has ever displayed.
Tour the famed museum with Bolton himself as he discusses the role of fashion as art and previews this spring's 2018 exhibition, Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination.
Text & Video by M 2 M - Made To MeasureGallery views of The Costume Institute's spring 2018 exhibition, Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination, narrated by exhibition curator Andrew Bolton.
The Costume Institute's spring 2018 exhibition features a dialogue between fashion and medieval art from The Met collection to examine fashion's ongoing engagement with the devotional practices and traditions of Catholicism.
The Byzantine galleries at The Met Fifth Avenue focus on designers who were inspired by the interiors of Byzantine churches, while the Medieval and Lehman galleries feature designs inspired by the holy ordering of the Catholic Church.
Text & Video by M 2 M - Made To MeasureIt's often said that couturier Cristobal Balenciaga didn't use corsetry to create his dramatic, sculptural garments. In order to find out more about how his incredible designs were constructed, we worked with X-ray artist Nick Veasey to see beneath the surface of several iconic dresses and hats. Both beautiful and forensic, the ghostly X-ray images reveal fascinating details not visible to the naked eye – including boning, hoops and dress weights which determine the exact fall of the fabric. Two of the X-rays also reveal dress pins which were accidentally left inside the hems by their original makers.
Text & Video by the V&ALondon-based fashion designer Gareth Pugh is known for his experiments with shape and volume. He employs unusual materials that are difficult to work with, such as PVC and rubber, to make strong silhouettes. Like Cristóbal Balenciaga, he produces shapes that abstract the body. Here, Pugh describes his choice of materials and techniques, and compare's Balenciaga's signature sculptural quality with his own design aesthetic.
Text & Video by the V&AKnown as 'The Master' of haute couture, Cristóbal Balenciaga produced some of the most influential designs in the history of modern fashion. We invited students from the London College of Fashion to investigate iconic garments by Balenciaga, deconstructing his processes and revealing secrets of their making and construction using digital pattern-cutting technology.
Text & Video by the V&ACommissioned by the Fashion Museum's new Director Miren Arzalluz, the MARGIELA/ GALLIERA, 1989-2009 exhibition is the first retrospective in Paris devoted to the career of Martin Margiela.
For more info about the exhibition at the Palais Galliera click here.
A walkthrough of the exhibition on the work of Maison Martin Margiela. Clare Catterall, a curator at Somerset House tells us why the Margiela is so influential in fashion, so much so, that the Maison merits its own exhibition.
For more info on the exhibition at Somerset House click here.
Video by Crane TV