London Fashion Week February 2021 Designer Diaries series features Matthew Harding and Levi Palmer of womenswear brand palmer/harding.

The pair experiment with innovative pattern cutting and draping techniques cultivated through their design education to build directional and desirable collections that constantly evolve the idea of what a shirt can be. Go behind the scenes of their studio to find out what inspired the new collection, how their creative pursuits have guided them through the pandemic and what's next for the brand

Creative pattern-cutting ideas for garment design.

20 creative pattern-cutting ideas for collars

Drafting a collar with an 'illusion' lapel and collar, grown onto a 'dartless' bodice.

Drafting the classic Dior 'Y' shape dart. This dart can create a softer shape than a traditional triangular dart, and can allow for more volume in the bust area.

Drafting a bodice with double collar (an 'illusion' shirt collar, and shawl-style collar), which have been grown onto a 'dartless' bodice shape.

Drafting a top with an overlapping pleat design.

Drafting an origami inspired bodice with pleat and seam design.

Creating a dress with a 'floral' heart design, using the Shingo Sato TR Pattern Cutting Method.

Drafting of a high-waisted skirt with a waterfall drape front.

Working with students from the London College of Fashion, the V&A created digital animations to show how three of Cristóbal Balenciaga's iconic designs were constructed.

The 'Tulip' dress is made from stiff silk gazar which stands away from the body and provides the strong architectural shape. The fabric is joined at the centre front and centre back with no side seams – a signature of Balenciaga's designs.

A second panel of fabric hangs from the shoulders and is secured with bar tacks under the arms, creating the illusion of a loose, unstructured garment.

Working with students from the London College of Fashion, the V&A created digital animations to show how three of Cristóbal Balenciaga's iconic designs were constructed.

A virtuoso example of pattern-cutting, the main body of this dress is cut from a single piece of fabric joined at the centre back. There are no side seams. The neck of the cape is painstakingly pieced to ensure a soft line which stands away from the body

London-based fashion designer Gareth Pugh is known for his experiments with shape and volume. He employs unusual materials that are difficult to work with, such as PVC and rubber, to make strong silhouettes. Like Cristóbal Balenciaga, he produces shapes that abstract the body. Here, Pugh describes his choice of materials and techniques, and compare's Balenciaga's signature sculptural quality with his own design aesthetic.

Known as 'The Master' of haute couture, Cristóbal Balenciaga produced some of the most influential designs in the history of modern fashion. We invited students from the London College of Fashion to investigate iconic garments by Balenciaga, deconstructing his processes and revealing secrets of their making and construction using digital pattern-cutting technology.