To determine the spoke length for designing your own basket, take the base measurement plus the height measurement times 2 for each side of the basket and add 4 or 5 inches for length to tuck. Use this same formula for horizontal and vertical spoke lengths.

Try using Oval/Oval (oval on both sides) reed for the ribs in ribbed egg and market baskets.

When you want to reduce the size of a basket, use spokes that are ½ the size of the original. Example: when the original pattern calls for ½” flat use ¼” flat and use the same number of spokes. The resulting basket will be one fourth the size of the original – not one half. To make it even smaller, use 1/8” spokes and it is again one-fourth the size.

When needing to mark centers or other measurements on dark reed, use a small china marking pencil or a white manicure pencil. The marks can be “erased” when finished weaving. (Submitted by Martha Kay Larsen)

Adjust over under bases so that the rows are parallel vertically and horizontally and the spaces between the spokes are square. The space should never be wider than the basket spokes.

To easily identify horizontal spokes from vertical spokes, cut the ends of the horizontal spokes straight across and the ends of the vertical spokes at an angle.

To square a base, measure your basket base from upper left hand corner to lower right hand corner and then from lower left hand corner to upper right corner. These measurements should be the same.

To hold flat reed spokes for a round base use an old ceiling tile, cork board tile or cutting board beneath the spokes and use a T-pin in the center of the spokes to hold it tight.

When flat reed spokes are too loose when placing them in a wood base, shave flat toothpicks or round reed scraps to form a wedge. Use the wedge to hold the stake in place on the inside of the basket. The wedge can be broken off flush with the base so that it is hidden. Another method is to use a length of well soaked round reed that can be wedged into the base grove on the inside to hold the spokes in place. The round reed should be pushed into the groove so that it cannot be seen.

When inserting spokes in a slotted base, use long quilting pins inserted on top of the spokes to hold them in place. After weaving 2 or 3 starter rows, pull pins out.

Insert dry stakes into wood slotted bases, and then wet to begin weaving. The stakes will swell when they become wet.

If you have trouble keeping twining tight to a slotted base, chase weave the first two rows.  Chase weaving will lock the spokes and you can switch to twining on the third row.

Use a plastic bowl as a mold or to assist in shaping. When making a basket with a wood base, drill 4 holes equally spaced and centered at the bottom of the bowl. Thread wax linen through holes and across the wood base to fasten the base to the outside of the bowl. Insert spokes and weave basket.

For spokes that crack when upsetting, use an emery board to file the rough crack down. This will not weaken the basket.

Use pliers with a narrow needle nose to crimp spokes before upsetting the base or before tucking spokes for rimming. This will help form the clean bend in the spoke and prevent the spoke from cracking.

Right handed weavers should weave  rows with right the hand and use the index finger and thumb on the left to hold the reed in place as you weave rows to the right. The left hand is actually controlling the shaping.  Left hand weavers will need to reverse the instructions.

To make corners, clothespin one spoke on each side of the corner together for the first couple rows of weaving. If you want a cat head shape, clothespin two spokes on each side of the corner.

To hold the starting end of a weaver in place, weave a short scrap above the first 4 starting spokes. Remove the scrap when ending the weave row. This is usually helpful for starting the first couple of rows.

To fold round reed in half without breaking it, crimp the reed with needle nose pliers before you fold and start twining. Also, you can pinch reed at the corners on the first row to make nice tight corners.

Remember to stop and look at your basket for correct shaping. For baskets with straight sides the spokes need to remain equal distance apart – including at the corners.

When you start sides of a round reed basket, make sure the base is turned so that you are weaving to the right if you are right handed --- Or to the left if you are left handed. It is hard to maintain a nice even shape if you are weaving the wrong direction. To control the shape of your basket if you are right handed, watch what your LEFT hand is doing. Your right hand knows the technique; your left hand controls the curve of the basket.

To untwist round reed when you are twining or triple weaving, hold the weavers in your hand and take one weaver and pull it up out of the rest. This is an easy way to untangle.

When using ¼” or 3/8” flat oval reed as weavers, shave down the very beginning where your weaver will overlap to eliminate bulk.

For twill Baskets, use smooth and supple reed for weavers.

When triple twining (over 2 and under one) with round reed, check the inside of the basket after each row to make sure that each spoke is wrapped by the weaver. If any of the spokes are not wrapped, then you wove over 3 and under one. (Submitted by Marsha Foster)

Start tapering a weaver from the end and gradually taper for 6” to 8” to the edge of the weaver. Scissors with long cutting blades are handy for making long straight cuts. Taper on the underside of the weaver so the cut edge will face the bottom of your basket. The cut edge (especially on dyed weavers) is less visible on the down side.

For baskets with straight walls, keep the spokes upright and parallel (same distance apart all the way to the top) - including at the corners. To make a basket larger at the top, the spokes need to spread gradually apart and the spread needs to be at the equal distance on each row. To make the basket smaller gently push spokes toward the center as you weave each row.

When weaving a basket that has sides that go straight up, weaver about 6 rows. Then, take out the sixth row and measure the length of the weaver. Cut the remaining weavers the same length to help control the basket circumference.

Be sure not to pull the weaver too tight on corners as it will cause your spokes to bend inward. Keep spokes upright and parallel as you weave.

Cane is directional. Cane will have a tendency to snag and break when pulled in the wrong direction. Run your fingernail across a joint or nodule to determine the smooth direction for weaving and lashing.

Soak cane for no more than 5 minutes in warm water. Remove from water and keep wrapped in a damp towel for use.  Many prefer the “Dip it, Dry it and Weave it!” method.

Pack rows as you weave. Reed and other wood weavers will shrink when dry. Allow your basket to thoroughly dry and pack again before you cut and tuck spokes.

Cut the corner points off of the tucking spoke will help tuck spokes. Do not cut spokes to a point as the reed will have a tendency to split.

For those who are easily distracted -- Before cutting spokes for rimming, try bending the spokes to be tucked over the rim filler row and to the inside of the basket. Then, cut the standing un-folded spokes flush with the rim filler row.

From the inside of the basket, use a flat Weaverite® tool or small flat screwdriver to lift the rows the spoke is to be tucked under.  Then, using your fingers, roll the spoke under the weaving rows and push down on the spoke. Work with the top of the basket lying on the table facing you.

When cutting and tucking spokes for over one and under one weave pattern, mark and trim one of the tucking spokes. Then, use a leftover piece of reed to make a gauge to mark and cut the rest of the spokes. Be sure the first spoke is the right measurement. Note: This does not work on a twill patterned basket. (Submitted by Marsha Foster)

Always put on the INSIDE rim first. Then the outside rim goes to the right of the inside splice just a little. That way the bulk works out at the same place. Don’t overlap the splices.

Rims can be held in place with spring clamps, clothes pins or cable ties to secure the rim for lashing. Allow the basket to dry thoroughly and make any adjustments to the rim’s fit before lashing.

When learning the Gretchen border, try alternate dyed and natural spoke to give a striped effect to the border. If you get confused and need to go re-check the border you should have two dyed and two natural reeds sticking out from the basket when you have completed each round. It also helps to mark the beginning three spokes before you begin a row with a pipe cleaner so you will know when you have reached the end. The pipe cleaners can be gently pulled outward for placement of the ending row spokes.

Use a small amount of electrical tape and wrap it once around the pulling end of your lashing material. Cut for 1 inch on a 45 degree angle and lash your rim. The tape on the reed prevents it from splitting while you lash.

To determine the length needed for a lasher, take the lashing material and wind it around the basket at least 2 ½ times for a single lash or 5 times around for an X lash. Add a few inches for trimming frayed ends. Note: Longer lengths are needed for twills, Nantucket’s or baskets with a lot of spokes that are close together.

To determine the length needed to wrap a handle, measure the lashing material at least 6 times the length of the handle. Add a few inches for trimming frayed ends.

Use lacing cane (Medium or fine) to lash tightly woven basket where stakes are close together.

For a dyed cane lasher, lash with reed side out and cane side down for more vibrant and consistent color. Weave reed side out for cane to match the completed basket when stained.

Keeping your hands wet while lashing prevents the reed from drying out too fast from the body heat in your hands.

Keep your left overbits of #2 and #3 round reed to add braided borders to splint baskets. Cut leftovers to 26” lengths and store them. Then a braided border is needed, count out the amount needed.

Gretchen Borders: Right hand weavers need to insert weavers/ spokes clockwise. Left hand weavers – counter clockwise. The inserted spokes will lay in the correct direction for weaving.

When making a Gretchen Border, *hairpin 6 spokes toward the inside of your basket and weave pattern. Then, place 6 more spokes and continue the weave pattern. *Continue until all spokes are in place. All the spokes are now on the inside of your basket and much easier to manage.