Cuddles en-route -
16th June, 2009
Dear Jeremy,
Sorry I missed out last week but as you knew Geoff and Tom visited and Tom spent two nights with me leaving me no time to write to you. It was a very happy time.
...........................
We left the wedding later than we had intended. The hotel at Komgha was phoned to tell them we would be late so they kept dinner for us.
The drive through the Kei River cuttings and the Transkei was quite barren as the countryside had been overstocked with cattle for a long time so there was much soil erosion. Cattle were wealth for the African people so the more you had the wealthier you were. Cows were used to pay the bride price when they married.
We passed through the towns of Butterworth, Idutywa and at Umtata turned right off the main road to take the road to Port St Johns. Whenever we stopped to cool the engine, Michael would decide it was time to have a cuddle and we would soon be surrounded by piccanins, small herd boys, who would come running from far and wide. We gave them sweets, hoping they would go away but that only encouraged them to stay longer hoping for more sweets.
The dirt road was long, dusty and rough with corrugations. We wound down to the coast and it was wonderful at last to see the bush and trees as we approached Port St Johns, aptly called The Wild Coast.
We had looked forward to swimming in the sea, so imagine our disappointment when we found the beach all littered with debris. There had been floods and the Umzimvubu River had brought down every dead tree it picked up along the way.
We were told of another beach, but to get there we had to go up a steep hill and the Chorrie just could not manage it. Of course there were people watching our embarrassed efforts from the top who called to us to try reverse gear. This worked and triumphantly we reached the top to be greeted by the applause of the gathered crowd. It was a lovely beach and we went there several times to swim in the sea.
We abandoned our climb of the high hill through the dense forest when, on the path in front of me, lay a snake. Nothing would persuade me to go any further – that was the end for me. Instead we drove up and visited an artist who lived on the top of the hill. We admired his paintings but reluctantly could not afford to buy one.
As you know your father could never resist boats so he climbed into one moored on the river bank. I objected to this - you do not climb into other people’s boats without their permission. As a compromise we crossed the river on the ferry and explored some more of the surrounding countryside.
There are not many photographs of this special happy time. My Mother did lend us her box Brownie camera but the film got stuck. But thereby hangs a tale! I went off to bath along the passage – no en-suite bathrooms in those days. Michael decided to try and release the film so he climbed into the wardrobe where it was dark. Unbeknownst to him the hotel maid had come in to turn the beds down and when he innocently opened the wardrobe door to climb out she took one horrified look at this strange person, shrieked and fled.
All too soon this idyllic honeymoon was over and we had to take the Chorrie home and return to Basutoland. The rough road had caused one of the bumpers to come off – I can’t remember if it was front or back.
Michael also decided it was a good time to teach me to drive but he reconsidered that decision when I went scooting down a steep hill at top speed. That was enough for him….
When we got back to the Pumping Station and handed the Chorrie over with many apologies about the bumper we were warmly greeted and welcomed. Not just by the family and Skelly but also by Bonnie, an Alsatian bitch puppy which Mr and Mrs Phil Webb had given us as a wedding present. She was beautiful but very lively.
Michael was still employed by the Basutoland Government for the next two months. He had been transferred to Leribe in the north but, as he had resigned, was not given a house so was staying at the hotel run by a formidable lady called Ma John. Fortunately Michael got on very well with her so I was welcomed and, as she liked dogs so were Skelly and Bonnie. We socialised with other members of the Boma and I remember specially one couple who were very friendly.
Ma John was renowned for her cooking and especially her pastry which just melted in one’s mouth. I think that was when I started to put on weight!!!!!
Guests came and went and one couple asked Ma John who those children were playing in the swimming pool. “They are not children,” she replied. “That is Mr and Mrs Sadler.” We must have looked very young or were we just having lots of fun? An English author also came to stay but can’t remember his name now.
One evening a young man invited us to go to Ficksburg to see a film. He drove a van and never have I been more frightened in my life. He put his foot down and at high speed over a very bumpy road we hurtled through the dark night. I vowed never to accept an invitation from him again. Can’t remember a thing about the film.
Then came the day we were to leave for Pietermaritzburg and Natal University. We gave a little farewell party and bought some wine and a bottle of gin. All the maids and hotel workers in the hotel brought me gifts, mostly clay pots they had made. As I had no room in my suitcase I had to tie them on to my baskets with the bottle of gin.
The dogs were fed and the taxi arrived and we were waved farewell. The rough road and I suppose, the excitement caused Bonnie to bring up her dinner. Skelly had sensed something was in the air as he had not eaten his share, so Bonnie had eaten that as well. Oh dear, what a todo. I was on the point of hysterics – “Do something, Michael, do something”, I wailed. Where he found the newspaper I don’t know, but there he was scooping up the mess and hurling it out the car window.
There was the usual rush at the station at Ficksburg and the dogs had to be put in the guard’s van. Imagine our feeling and thoughts when we found we had been booked separately – me with a large ‘Tannie’ (Afrikaans ‘Aunty’) and Michael way down the other end of the carriage. Michael found the conductor and spun him a yarn that we had just got married so he kindly found us a coupe but on the other side of the dining saloon.
All our possessions were with me and the ‘Tannie’, so Michael started carrying the cases down through the dining saloon greeting the occupants on his way. When the train stopped, as it did at every siding, he would run up the platform and climb in with me again and collect another suitcase. Once he even startled the ‘Tannie’ who had decided to relax, and so it was time to remove her corset – large women wore corsets in those days. He made three or four trips down through the dining saloon smiling genially at the occupants. He got some odd looks the last time with me following in his wake!
We were hilarious by the time we finally got into the coupe which was very small with just two bunks and a blank wall and all our luggage.
Love Mum