I started playing in the SCA in 1987 with the University of Oregon student group in the Barony of Adiantum. An Tir. My persona is an Aragonese in the early 16th century living in Catalonia. For over 20 years, I lived all over Downtown An Tir eventually settling in Blatha an Oir. In 2011, we moved to the Shire of Fendrake Marsh then moved to the Province of Silver Desert in early 2014.
After focusing on service for many years, I found a passion for cooking. (Something I thought would never happen) I am particularly interested in late period Catalonian Cuisine. My primary references are El Libre de Sent Sovi (c1325) and El Libre de Coch (1520). In 2018, I apprenticed to Viscountess Gwendwyn the Silent.
Sauces play an important role in medieval cuisine. One only has to casually browse through any medieval cookbook to notice the abundance of sauces available to accompany dishes. Sauces were used to enhance the flavor of meat, but some could be served as their own side dishes such as Porriol (Onion Sauce) or Salsa de Bolets (Mushroom Sauce).
Recently, I began a quest which I dubbed "The Salsa Project." My goal is to recreate as many medieval sauces that I can. I am currently working my way through El Llibre de Sent Sovi, a medieval Catalonian cookbook circa 1325. For the Display, I selected three sauces to show some variety in Catalonian cuisine as well as diffrent techniques used in creating the sauces. These three recipes are taken from El Llibre de Sent Sovi / The Book of Sent Sovi: Medieval Recipes from Catalonia, edited by Joan Santanach, translated by Robin Vogelzang. Barcelona: Barcino-Tamesis, (c.1325) 2008.
Original:
Si vols fer mig-raust, mit gallina en ast. Aprés hages brou d’altres gallines, o del caldum d’aquestes d’ast, e fe’n bon brou ab carnsalada, aprés hages ametles perades e fe’n llet. E prin los fetges de destrempa’ls ab la llet. E mit-ho a bullir amb bones espècies: pebre e gingebre, clavells, canyella, e agror, sabor e sucre blanc; e fesho molt bullir. Quan les gallines d’ast deuran ésser cuites, esquartera-les e fets-les bullir en salsa tro que conegues que sien cuites; e feu-ne escudelles amb les gallines.
E, si dónes menjar blanc, pots donar ab aquesta salsa les gallines qui et romanen, ço és saber, caps e cuixes e alerons e anques. Emperò sosenga-les abans en la cassola ab greix de carnsalada, abans que sien meses dins la salsa.
Translation:
If you want to make half-roast, put chicken on a spit. Then make broth of other chickens, or of the innards of those on the spit, and make it a good broth with salt pork; then take peeled almonds and make milk with them. Take out the livers and blend them with the milk. Set it to boil with good spices: pepper and ginger, cloves, cinnamon, and verjuice, flavor and white sugar; and let it boil a lot. When the roast chickens should be cooked, quarter them and let them boil in the sauce enough so you know they are cooked; and distribute into bowls with the chicken.
About the Sauce:
This dish isn't just a sauce, but a chicken cooked within the sauce for a complete dish. The chicken is halfway cooked on a Rotisserie then put in a pot. Chicken Broth, Almond Milk, and ground Chicken Liver is added to the pot used for the basis of the sauce. The chicken finishes cooking as the sauce thickens. This was a popular dish. A variation is found later on in Nola's Libre de Coch (1520) as well as Como's Libro de Arte Coquinaria (c1450)
Original:
Si vols fer salsa de cervo, pren la salsa menys de safra e ages pa torrat e mullat en vinagre e capola la e pica la ab lo pa eusemps, e, corn sera tot ensemps picat, destempra ho ab del brou matex, e corn sera destemprat e corn la sal hi sera, pren vinagre e arrop e mit n I per cominal, e com ato sera fet mit la a biillir, e, corn sera bullida, eva la del foch e tasta la de sal e de vinagre e de arrop e fe n escudellas.
Translation:
If you want to make pepper sauce, take a mixture of spices without saffron, and take bread toasted and soaked in vinegar, and chop it and grind it all together with the bread. When it is all ground up together, blend it with the same broth. When it is blended, and when the salt is in, take vinegar and boiled fruit syrup, and add some in the usual way. When this is done, set it to boil. When it is boiled, take it from the fire, and add salt, vinegar, and fruit syrup to taste. And put it in bowls.
About the Sauce:
This is a simple sauce primarily intended to be served with red meat. The basis for the sauce is Vinegar and Blackened Toasted Bread with Pepper and Ginger. Fruit Syrup can be added to the mixture add extra flavor and Broth can be used to temper it. This sauce has its roots in Poivre Noir (Pepper Sauce) from Le Viandier de Taillevent (c1300).
Original:
Si vols fer porriol preii ceba tallada e ab sal cogua en aygua freda e escurri la moltes vealdes, e fes !a hi poch bullir ab greis de porch e piiys nlit lii ritiagre e pebre e sal e aygua, e no sia massa forts, e mit hi tots los quarters entregues
Translation:
If you want to make onion sauce, take chopped onion, and cook with salt in cold water. Rinse it many times, and boil it a little while with pork fat. Then put in vinegar, pepper, salt, and water; they shouldn’t be too strong. And put in all the quarters [of the birds] whole.
About the Sauce:
The recipe recommends this sauce for poultry, but it can also be eaten as a side dish. The Onions are chopped, boiled, then fried. It is finished off with Vinegar, Salt, Pepper, and Water. The recipe in Sent Sovi doesn't specify how fine to chop the Onion, but a variation in El Llibre d’aparellar specifies thst the onion should be cut in very small pieces. On the other hand, another in El Llibre de potatges indicates that it should be ground. Another variation of this recipe can be found in Nola's Libre de Coch (1520).