Written by:
Krisha Marie de Jesus

The road to Buscalan is not just a ride; it’s a test of endurance. On May 1, I spent 17 hours on a motorcycle, navigating endless curves that climbed higher into the steep, pine-covered Cordillera mountains. Phone signals disappeared, the air grew noticeably thinner, and at one point I found myself at the second-highest peak along the perilous route. It was a journey that demanded extreme patience but promised an unforgettable outcome.

At the jump-off point to the Buscalan Tattoo Village, visitors face a choice: trek the steep mountain path or take the makeshift tramline to Apo Whang-Od’s village. I chose the tramline. "You can't say you conquered Buscalan without riding the tram," one local told me. Without a harness, the rusted metal cage looked intimidating, but the ride lasted less than a minute and was far easier than the exhausting climb under the scorching sun. That short glide over the ravine felt like crossing into another world, one where ancient Kalinga tradition lives on in every corner.

The locals greeted us warmly. While fluent in Tagalog, they speak Butbut, their native language, which echoes in casual conversations throughout the village. Their tight-knit community is thriving: large houses stand proudly against the mountain backdrop, and newly built transient homes welcome the steady stream of travelers who come to witness living history. Buscalan is no longer a hidden gem; it has become one of the most visited cultural sites in the Philippines.

Early the next morning, I joined the winding line to meet Apo Whang-Od, the legendary mambabatok (traditional tattoo artist). For P150, you buy the sharp pomelo thorn used in tattooing, and for P300, you receive her signature mark. The mark consists of three simple yet powerful dots, symbolizing connection, passage, and continuity. Around the village, younger women carry on the tradition with more intricate designs, proving that Buscalan’s artistry is alive, respected, and evolving.

Beyond the ink, Buscalan itself is breathtaking. Their immense pride in their culture and deep care for the ancestral land show why Buscalan is more than a mere tourist stop—it is a living story of heritage, carried forward with every tap of the ink.