Situated in the French Alps, Grenoble is nestled in a valley with four stunning mountain regions surrounding it: Vercors, Oisans, Belledone and Chartreuse. The UT4M 170km, 11000m elevation loop goes up and down each range over ~ a marathon distance and 2800m of elevation gain and loss. YES, that is in total more than the height of Everest (8488m above sea level)!!!
This would be my first 100 miler. I have been running 50k and 80k for the last four years and wanted to move up to the big ultra. Why? I wanted to go in an event that I didn't know I could complete. Something that scared me ...
Why did I choose this one? I am not a heat lover, so a desert ultra was not my preference. There are fast 100 milers but flats are not my forte. I have always loved mountains so when Peter suggested UT4M in France it piqued my interest. UT4M starts at 300m of elevation so I wouldn't have to cope with the elevation of some ultras in the US. So, in December I registered and started my training ... There is a great community of ultra runners in Ottawa-Gatineau so I picked their brains and used their support to get ready. First 100 miler training progress report
We travelled over to Grenoble, France twelve days before the event and got settled in our place in paradise, my friends converted farmhouse, just outside the small village of Méaudre in the Vercors region of the French Alps. Of course, I had to go wander around on the mountains beforehand and had a blast doing so with my youngest son Leonard, and my girlfriend Patricia. Leonard and I even climbed Mont Aiguille, the birthplace of mountaineering with the help of a guide (see Flickr link at end of report for pics)
Looking back at Moucherotte - pic from before the event
We started at 4pm from Seyssins on the south side of Grenoble and headed up to Moucherotte, 1600m above us. I started near the back of the pack and ran at relaxed pace taking in the energy of the event as we ran through the streets and started to climb. The trails were wide enough to allow free flow of the runners.
Patricia and Leonard were the most amazing race crew - they drove around for two nights following me from checkpoint to checkpoint, driving up and down crazy mountain roads, cheering me on, refilling my pack, supplying extra gear, and supporting me the whole way. Thank you!!!
At the first checkpoint in the town of Saint Nizier I was in 312th of 470 starters and had maintained a 6km/hr pace - fast for an event that 6km/hr will put you in contention for medals - even in a 100 miler people start too fast. The trails were not very technical but still ...
We continued to climb up the limestone mountains in the Vercors region to the top of Moucherotte and then to Pic Saint Michel, before starting the long descent down to Saint-Paul-de-Varces.
As we dropped down from Col de l'Arc (at the clouds below) it got dark quickly as the sun was setting behind us - headlamps turned on but I ran using the light of one in front and one behind. Once at the bottom looking back I could see lights from the top over a kilometer above us winding down the mountain - so cool!!! From there, there was "just" a 600m hill to climb and descent to the checkpoint in Vif.
I arrived in Vif in 7.5hours, in 185th place, just before midnight, averaging just over 5km/hr and feeling pretty solid.
From Vif we left the valley wandering on roads and trails and starting the climb up into the Oisans region. There were three climbs of 800m, 600m and 1000m vertical over the next 30km. The "traileurs" were more spread out now although I was very rarely out of sight of another runner. On the uphills it was great to use my upper body with my extendable poles. On the 20-30% grades I would often put in a double pole and then take three steps and repeat with a full leg extension. When, my achilles eventually got sore so I stepped more on off of my toes, and using the calves more. On gentler slopes a ski stride was effective with 115cm pole length. I was catching and passing people on the uphills while still keeping the breathing easy. For good portions of this section I was hiking up with a woman who ended up being the top woman in the UT4M! In the night we passed through checkpoints in Laffrey and La Morte (nice name eh!) and I stopped for 15-20 minutes at each place to refuel and in La Morte to change to a merino wool top due to the dropping temperatures.
Climbing up the 1000m climb I have memories of seeing lights above and below us on the switchbacks to the top at Pas de La Vache. At the top looking back was an incredible view of the the full moon above the clouds!!! The picture above is from much earlier in the event before dark but it gives an idea of what we were seeing.
Looking down 1000m to La Morte from near Pas de La Vache at 7700feet [pic from hiking the week before]
I dropped down to Lac Du Poursollet at dawn 14.5 hours into the event, in 87th position still with a smile on my face.
I tried to nap at this station but my mind and body wasn't ready to switch off. As a side note, UT4M was very well run, well marked, with great volunteers BUT their toilets were, well non-existent in many places and even when they existed there were not enough of them (yikes!) I carried toilet paper with me but it seemed crazy to have to step into the woods at a checkpoint.
When dawn came I remember thinking "Cool! I just ran through a whole night ..."
Refuge à "Chalets de la Barrière"
From there it was 12km to Rioupéroux, with 500m up and 1500m down - the down in all one shot. I ran down as smoothly as I could to keep the load off the quads and on rocky terrain I sometimes had one pole out for balance. I was feeling tired by this time and wasn't feeling like eating very much, though I tried to continue to keep the calories coming.
[I only fell three times, once sliding onto my butt on a steep slippery section, once skinning my knee and a beautiful full shoulder roll after tripping]
Looking down to Rioupéroux and to the right the Oisans region
In Rioupéroux, I took 50minutes to recuperate and get a leg massage (felt great!). At this point I had some chafing issues that I had been using cream on but took the opportunity to tape my neither regions up!!!
Then I headed up the beast to Croix de Chamrousse - the first part of the climb was over 1000m in less than 4km, a 25% grade!!! I don't have a lot of memory of this section, however, I just kept on putting one foot in front throughout that morning as I headed up the switchbacks. I do recall as I got closer to the top of the ski resort at Croix de Chamrousse that I was feeling pretty damn tuckered!!!
I got there at 1:45pm, almost 22 hours and 95km into the event in 79th position, my highest position during the race. The problem was that I had not taken enough food in and was completely out of energy. I lay down inside under blankets to rest and shivered, without feeling cold, and my finger tips had some lack of feeling. I stayed at that station for 1hr 45min, ate a bit and got maybe a few minutes of sleep.
Once I decided to head out again, I did so with warm clothes on and at a much reduced effort level. In the time that I rested the fog had come in heavy and you could barely see 50m ahead of you. I took it very easy, especially on the uphills, resting every 50m just to be on the safe side. Quitting didn't really enter my mind - just what did I have to do to keep going.
The descent down to the Saint-Nazaire region took a toll on my body as once I hit the flats in town and on the road I didn't have much gas for running. I also had changed socks at Croix de Chamrousse and wasn't liking the socks I was wearing, especially on the pavement. This was really the only time during the event where I didn't like the course and the long jog-walk to the checkpoint as darkness fell was made better with a few other runners nearby.
I stayed in Saint-Nazaire for close to two hours, eating, drinking, getting a massage and finally sleeping for ~20minutes. Not that I cared, but I only dropped back 11 places during that time! I left at 11:15pm and started the next climb of 1200m in the dark - that one was tough. It was difficult not to stop and look at my phone to see how much I had climbed and how much I had left. I turned on my music for a little while but turned it off again soon as it was annoying me lol. I took a few breaks while climbing for the next 2.5 hours up 1100m
At the top of Chamechaude the winds were high and I could almost see my breathe. I had a jacket on, a toque and light gloves which felt warm enough. It was a relief to finally hit the top and start jogging down an open field towards the sound of cowbells - hmmm! was that a bull - I wonder if I could sprint if I had to? The refuge around the corner was an oasis, 4 hours after the last one - the longest time between checkpoints - a small rustic wood cabin nestled into the hillside with a warm fire and food layed on the tables inside. I spent long enough there that the checker volunteer came inside to see if the "Canadian was still here". I was a tad tuckered after 35 hours on the trail and trying hard to get enough food into me. I drank coke and ate the bread and I can't remember what else from the table.
Chamechaude from hiking the week before
Saint-Eynard - safety volunteer's tent - there were a dozen places on course where volunteers were placed for safety.
From Chamechaude it is basically downhill from there - except for all of those ups of 100-400m (of vertical). At the second to last checkpoint in Le Sappey I curled up on a bench and was twitching while sleeping for 15 glorious minutes.
That gave me some energy for the last very steep climb of 400m up to Saint-Eynard where I was rewarded with a view of Grenoble up close. Interestingly, it didn't enter my mind that I would be able to finish at this time - I was too task oriented to think beyond the next steps. The descent from Saint-Eynard of 700m descent seemed to go on forever, down long switchbacks with a few runners pulling ahead of me though some of them were running the 95km event.
There was one last climb up to the Bastille (last green ridge in the pic above) and then the stairs and trail descent into the city of Grenoble. I was feeling fairly good at this point and pushed the pace, however, that lead to my right quadricep seizing up completely just before the bottom of the hill. Therefore the last couple of kilometres through town I had to hobble my way to the finish in just over 42 hours.
It took a while to hit me that I had actually finished a 100 miler in the mountains and I am still processing it.
Will I run another? Given that I am analyzing what I did well and what I could improve on, undoubtedly, but I have nothing planned except to heal up to be able hike in the Adirondacks' with Leonard at the end of September.
Annie Jean finished (and won!) the four day stage race shortly after I finished
A liter of beer on two nights of no sleep - damn that tasted good!
There is a lot of mandatory gear for the UT4M.
Gear I loved: UD Adventure Pack, BD poles, Petzl lamp, iPhone and charger, merino wool top, Wright socks, iNov8 X-Talon 200 -used for first 40km, electrolyte capsules, maple syrup gels, cap
Gear that was ok: Altra Superior 3.5 shoes - used for 130km - loved the wide toebox but shoelace at ankle was problematic, shotblocks and gels - didn't have many, electrolyte tabs (did they contribute to stomach issuesÉ)
Gear I didn't use: caffeine gum (surprisingly), many shot blocks and gels, sunglasses
Gear I needed: Better anti-chafing cream/gel, shoes that work better for me
Check out the Flickr album of my France vacation :)