Ball Screw and inner Leg assembly

This is a 1605 Ball Screw that you can find on Amazon or other places.  Any Length Between 280mm and 400mm will work, but you would need to cut the longer one off to fit inside, so that is not optimal.  I prefer ordering the 280mm to 350mm length ballscrews with bearing block when I can find them, if you are lucky you can find them for about $35CDN a piece.  

Test fit that it can now slide into the 8080 rail without any friction.  If this won't fit with zero contact, it will eat the inside of the leg in a few minutes and destroy all your hard work.

The pic above shows the inside of the rail, the 1605 ballscrew needs to fit inside this leg, where the black plastic shape is, and slide without touching the aluminum or the sensor located at the bottom of the picture.

Below is the inner part of the leg from my V2 rig, after 700 hours of use it looks almost as good as new (note, the goop visible is silicone grease).

Once the Bearing Block flange has been cut to fit, the next step is to print the bearing block PETG slider that holds the Aluminum 30mm OD Rod to the bearing block.

To assemble the bearing block and rod, first the bearing block needs to get hammered into the plastic slider block as shown.  It MUST be lined up rotationally within the first few millimeters of hammering, otherwise you will not be able to correct the rotation later without breaking the plastic and needing to print a new slider.

Once the bearing block flange is in contact with the plastic block then we can flip it over and hammer the 30mm OD rod into the block.  First you must file the end of the rod that goes into the block to round the edges so that it will go in easier.  Then the end distance must be marked with a sharpie so you know when to stop hammering.  Also you must mark the cut off length on the rod as well at 31cm from the end that went into the slider block, so you know where to chop it off when done.  

Note: hammering aluminum will cause it to deform, using a piece of wood between the hammer and aluminum will greatly reduce any deformation at the contact point.

Chop off the excess 9cm of Rod, file the end clean and then insert the 3D printed foot into the bottom of the Rod.

On the bearing block flange we need to install the end stop plate that will keep the bolts from smashing into the top of the leg when the power is turned off.  This plate gets screwed into the block using some screws with about a 2.5mm OD shaft...  link coming...