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Wheel Material Class
Among the three main components of a roller skate—wheels, plates, and boots—wheels change the skating experience the most. Material/hardness, dimensions, and shape directly influence what a skater can do [better &/or worse]. It should be noted that Fo-Mac and slipperier wheels will have an adjustment period as skating style needs to change to accommodate the ability to readily slide. This page focuses on material and sliding potential.
The list directly below are generalizations that can help describe how wheels vary:
Slim/skinny wheels (width 28mm to 33mm) tend to be more agile
Fat wheels (width > 33mm) tend to be more stable
Smaller-diameter wheels are slower & more agile
Larger-diameter wheels are faster
Softer (lower durometer) wheels (78a to 85a) are grippier, slower, & conform to uneven surfaces
Harder (higher durometer) wheels (95a+ and other materials) are slipperier, faster & more precise
Hubbed wheels are more precise
Wheels with square corners are more precise & stable on flat surfaces
Wheels with rounded corners are suitable for curved surfaces.
note: This page is a work-in-progress
This is a chart for normal people who tend to not explore other wheel materials. Doesn't even leave urethane wheels SMH.
And yes, I'm 100% judging you for liking this chart; read the fun stuff below!
Hybrid wheels are dumb in my un-humble opinion.
All urethane is squishy garbage in the world of sliding so either spec for dance (at the higher end of the spectrum) or distance (at the lower end of the spectrum)
Most skate wheels (including skateboard and inline skates) are made of urethane. It is a plastic material that is inexpensive and generally non-toxic to produce. Urethane varies in quality, typically communicated in its "rebound;" high-rebound urethane is thought of being of higher quality as the material will deform under stress and return to its original shape.
Softer "outdoor" wheels are at the lower end of the durometer (78a ->85a). Most people will prefer softer urethane wheels for outdoor skating since the squishiness of the material effectively absorbs shocks from the uneven surfaces.
Harder "indoor" wheels are at the higher range of the durometer scale (95a+). I use the harder urethane wheels for dance and short distance skating outdoors as they transfer my power efficiently and allow me to slide a little.
These wheels have the most consistent slip-grip ratios:
0:100 on well-coated maple floors
0:100 on lightly coated maple floors
1:99 on uncoated maple floors
0:100 on sealed concrete floors
0:100on epoxy-coated concrete floors
5:95 on painted/porcelain tile
20:80 on sport court tile
Modern Vanathane is a remake material. It has similar properties in terms of slide feel but their durability is clearly different due the absence of the "magic" ingredient, asbestos. They are known to cone a lot faster. The styles that appreciate the slip-grip properties of vanathane also use their edges a lot (NY/NJ-House style). The consistent use leads to the loss of edges, also known as coning.
Modern vanathane does get little pits and cracks really quickly compared to the vintage material which makes them more work to keep clean and slick.
They are 94-95a
note: This divides wheels that are usable outdoors/on any surface (above) and indoors/very smooth controlled surfaces (below). Wheels below will be easily damaged (powdered/scraped away, scratched/gouged, chipped/broken/shattered) from use outdoors. I would not use vintage wheels outdoors, just don't.
There's a lot of good information out there on VV wheels. The best resource out there seems to be Sk8Berlin and can be read here. They say that these wheels were the perfect balance between slip and grip for dance styles. I use them for my non-sliding dance, and they work well. Being a porous material, they do pick up dust/dirt; because of that, I recommend cleaning them at least once every two or three sessions, so they stay grippy.
Vanguard vanathane wheels with no hub measure 55D
Vanguard vanathane wheels with a hub measure 60D
These wheels have consistent slip-grip ratios:
15:85 on well-coated maple floors
15:85 on lightly coated maple floors
20:80 on uncoated maple floors
0:100 on sealed concrete floors
5:95 on epoxy-coated concrete floors
30:70 on painted/porcelain tile
25:75 on sport court tile
I haven't skated The Roll Line stable of wheels much but the very little I did was on a set of Giottos I borrowed from another slider. They have a very upright feel to them due in part to their height and the other part, their slim profile. They did resolve fair slides although the hub did make me think that I could scrape the floor with their sides. These feel like almost-dried sculptor's clay. At 61D, you'd think they made a satisfying sound but they make a dull thwack sound on wood and against each other.
These wheels will chip and sheer on rough surfaces like sidewalk concrete and asphalt and are know to flatspot fairly easily on indoor smooth surfaces. They are not recommended for starting learning ARS skating because the slip is usually uncontrollable for uninitiated skaters. I only recommend them on finished surfaces (or uncoated wood floorings like unfinished maplewood floors).
25:75 on well-coated maple floors
note: (1) Harder thermoplastic wheels 60D+ and slipperier/harder wheels [featured below] readily slide at medium speeds and lateral pushes [pushing perpendicular to the direction faced]. For unfamiliar skaters, we recommend slowly adjusting your expectations before committing to movements on wheels at and beyond this "hardness."
(2) Wheels past this point are difficult to spin in; while the roll is fantastic, the wheels start to slip out from under the skater. Balance and alignment are extra important.
These wheels will chip and grind to dust on rough surfaces like sidewalk concrete and asphalt. I only recommend them on finished surfaces (or uncoated wood floorings like unfinished maplewood floors).
Fo-Mac wheels are hard clay wheels. Skaters that feel as urethane and vanathane wheels both grippy should probably start here. Unlike thermoplastic wheels which can deform, FM wheels do not deform from pressure and will maintain their shape until ground down, chipped, or resurfaced. FM wheels were very common back in the day until vanathane made its debut, followed by urethane which sized the throne once the production of vanathane was banned.
These wheels have fairly consistent slip-grip ratios:
45:55 on well-coated maple floors
45:55 on lightly coated maple floors
60:40 on uncoated maple floors
40:60 on sealed concrete floors
50:50 on epoxy-coated concrete floors
75:25 on painted concrete/porcelain tile
70:30 on sport court tile
Sure Grip Maple Sliders
Size: 50mm x 32mm
Color: Maple
Hardness: Hard as a tree
If you want my unfiltered opinions read the deep-dive page.
Wooden wheels were a popular indoor wheel materials. They are pretty slippery depending on the kind of wood they were made of and the surface quality. Wood wheels are extremely light when compared to other plastics, metal or fiberglass wheels. Whether lightness is a useful feature when jumping on wood wheels is questionable is neither here nor there. Wood wheels do have a limit to how much impact they can take before the fibers snap and the wheel breaks; we don't recommend jumping or stomping styles when using these wheels. In terms of sliding these wheels are not as consistent but given favorable environments (smooth and not humid), can be incredible sliding candidates. Being a natural porous material, they do pick up dust/dirt; because of that, I have to recommend cleaning them at least once every or every other session, so they stay grippy and more predictable.
These wheels have inconsistent slip-grip ratios:
50:50 on well-coated maple floors
45:55 on lightly coated maple floors
95:5 on uncoated maple floors
50:50 on sealed concrete floors
70:30 on epoxy-coated concrete floors
95:5 on painted concrete/porcelain tile
100:0 on sport court tile
Insert dinosaur joke here
I want to roll these at least once, just to suffer a little.
But why are they so small?!
Fiberglass wheels are slippery on most surfaces; a lower profile brings the skater closer to the ground and makes skating on them more stable/controllable. Skaters still need to be very mindful of their weight distribution and control movements with their thighs more than the action their plates provide.
note: Very small wheels need low-profile plates, so the plate does not scratch against the surface.
This list is ranked by slip:grip and fibers have the highest ratio that I've experienced. Sliding styles use fiberglass wheels for their low-friction consistency across several floor surfaces. The grippiest being sealed concrete floors which are still possible to slide on. These wheels are standard affair for the Cali Slide Style and feature prominently in my personal style, Freestyle Slide. While wheels harder than Urethane are squarely on the "slip:grip scale" and can be used to resolve slides, fibers are able to consistently slide with minimal effort. Consequently, fibers can be challenging to skate in. Skaters with fibers on cannot push off with high amounts of force as the wheels will simply slide. Likewise, spins and jumps which rely on using edges cannot be resolved easily at all. Many jam skate dance moves and steps which rely on planting the feet and pushing off will not function as intended.
These wheels have extremely consistent slip-grip ratios:
95:5 on well-coated maple floors
100:0 on lightly coated maple floors
100:0 on uncoated maple floors
70:30 on sealed concrete floors
95:5 on epoxy-coated concrete floors
100:0 on painted concrete/porcelain tile
100:0 on sport court tile