Yes. There are detailed descriptions on plates, the things that enable skaters' action/turning potential.
This page was written by Adrienne Schreiber, Department of Skate and edited by RollsRight.
note: This page is a work-in-progress
ID = Inside Diameter
OD = Outside Diameter
Truck yoke = The part of the truck where the cushions touch the truck.
Plate-side = between the plate and the truck yoke.
Floor-side = between the truck and the floor.
Pivot pin = the "nose" of the truck which sockets into the plate.
Pivot cup = the hole where the pivot pin pr "nose" rests. *non-precision pivot pins are also known to have a pivot pin bushing, since it's made of rubber
Retainer = That metal disc that cups the skate cushion
Zero lash = The point where you tighten the KP nut and there is no "free play" or "wiggle" of your skates' trucks
Cushions must be certain sizes (this varies from plate to plate). They typically have a side with "rings", the side with these faces the truck, while the stamped/embossed/flat side faces the washer/retainer. Some do not have these rings.
The ID of the cushion must match the OD of the kingpin to ensure a snug fit.
Likewise, the cushion OD must be large enough to fill up the truck yoke/cushion platform. It should essentially socket into the truck. This again makes the assembly perform as intended with minimal slop and maximum stability.
Lastly, the height of the plate-side cushion must be appropriate, so the truck yoke/cushion platform sits perpendicular to the kingpin. This can be augmented some, as you can add/remove washers to/from the assembly between the plate and the plate side cushion to achieve the desired geometry.
You want a tight fit on the ID/OD and the height should be close to the rest of the length of the kingpin, with enough room to have a retainer/washer and the nut fully threaded on so the end of the kingpin begins to come out 1 or 2 threads. This ensures that the nylock ring is entirely engaged and makes the likelihood of it coming off the kingpin minimal.
As mentioned earlier the truck yoke/cushion platform should sit perpendicular to the kingpin.
The pivot pin should sit centered in the pivot cup. ***The length should be well in the cup for non-precision cup/pins. And for precision/adjustable pivots the ball should just bottom out, with no pressure on the pivot pin.
note: Since the pivot pin needs to sit centered (or close to center), the amount of adjustment that one can gain with shims can be limited. An adjustable pivot pin helps this but eventually, the pivot will sit closer to the kingpin or end of the plate than it should be. The adjustable part only helps with the length of the pivot.
You can add shims/washers under the plate side cushion to raise its height past where the yoke will sit perpendicular, this will positively affect turning for a given plate lean. Likewise, decreasing cushion height past perpendicular alignment will negatively affect turning for a given plate lean.
Reducing the plate side cushion height reduces clearance between the axle and the boot and increases wheel bite risk. Increasing the plate side cushion height typically increases your clearance.
Adding a lubricant, like automotive suspension grease or silicone grease, between the cushions and the truck yoke will assist in smooth operation of the suspension.
Properly functioning trucks want to release their edge and return to neutral/center.
Compromised trucks will hold an edge and will not return to neutral/center after being released.
Additionally, the lubricated suspension will increase cushion life expectancy. The rings mentioned earlier help keep the grease in place) We recommend lubricating: the shaft of the kingpin, the truck yoke, the cushions on the ringed side where they should contact the truck yoke (if present). For non-precision pivot pins which use a rubber bushed pivot cup, lubricate the pivot pin nose and the cup itself. Precision pivots with Delrin cups don't require lubrication, as they are self-lubricating.