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title from My Way, Soon by Greta Van Fleet
January 27th, 2023
With school out, and the church office closed for a couple weeks while Erika the church administrator went on vacation, I was encouraged by my site lead to take some time and see another part of the country! I decided to spend a week and a half in Misiones, a region in the north where Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay meet. Its best known for being the home of the Iguazu Falls National Park, and as the largest producer of Yerba Mate the local tea drank here.
I don't know about anyone else but alongside the excitement of travel I always feel no small amount of guilt that comes with it. There are so many things I wrestle with as I move about the world, ranging from the ecological toll travel takes, the privilege that comes from carrying an American passport, and the way I can share my experiences and the things I learn without inserting myself too much or overpowering the real voices behind the stories I carry with me. So how can we explore all the incredible things the world has for us in a way that glorifies and respects the earth and those in it? How can we be better travelers?
As I said before, I had a full week and a half in Misiones so I had plenty of time to see everything I could. As much as I loved the falls my favorite places on my trip ended up being two smaller spots in Puerto Iguazu, La Aripuca and Guira Oga. Both recommended to me by the owners of my hostel. La Aripuca is a family owned agro-eco-tourism park, built in the 90's to bring attention to the deforestation and endangerment of native tree species in the forests of Misiones. A large hut modeled after traps built by the Guarani people (the tribes native to the area) was constructed out of local tree species all saved from lumber mills or having fallen by natural causes, some over 100 years old. Its used to illustrate the trap we are all in as we continue to walk towards the extinction of many natural habitats but just like how the Guarani trap is made to simply capture and not kill, there is still hope for escape if people take the necessary steps to protect green spaces.
At La Aripuca there is plenty of information about local floral and fauna as well as a market place set up by local Guarani people and a store selling agricultural products of the region. Its a small but beautiful little park area with plenty of sitting areas and entry was super cheap so I ended up visiting a second day to sit with my mate and journal just enjoying the space. If you want to know more about the space here is their website (La Aripuca) and I highly recommend taking part in their Padrino de Arboles program, where for only 300p (literally less than 2$!!!) you can sponsor a tree in the Misiones jungle for ten years. You just send them a message letting them know your interest and after paying they will let you know some fun facts about your tree! You can even pick a specific species if you have a particular interest, and if you are ever in the region you can plan a visit to meet your tree. It's just the coolest thing ever I am in love with it. I'm currently waiting to get info back on my tree and I am so excited to learn about my little arbol.
The other place I really enjoyed was Guira Oga, an animal refuge that works with the rehabilitation of jungle animals. It is important to note there are a lot of places that use "animal sanctuary" or "refuge" as a way to bring people in when truly it is just a glorified zoo or in worse cases, pure animal trafficking, so definitely do your research when it comes to stuff like this! I'm happy to say Guira Oga was not one of those instances. They work directly with wildlife services to receive animals for veterinary care, rehab and release. Some of these animals come from the wild, some rescued from trafficking situations, and some from people who thought they could be kept as pets. Those that aren't able to be returned to the wild or were bred in captivity are then cared for in the center and become part of their education services. For 2000p (about 10$) you get a guided tour for an hour and half through the enclosures of animals that could not be reintroduced to the wild, and you learn about the species as well the individual animals story of why they are perminant residants of the center. It was incredible to get to see such beautiful animals up close and learn more about the conservation efforts for them and like La Aripuca, the entrance fee is going directly back to support the organization.
Anyone who knows me knows I have a huge passion for environmental justice. In fifth grade I scored well on a test and won the chance to be "teacher for a day" where I got to teach a 30 minute lesson on whatever I wanted. I chose global warming. I wasn't the most educated on the subject at the time and my lesson mostly consisted of drawing a polar bear on the whiteboard and repeatedly saying "His home is melting don't you get it?" Greta Thunberg eat your heart out. But it is something that is in my mind on a constant basis, and I am constantly trying to be better especially now as a guest in another country. How can I minimize my waste, what's the benefit to flying over busing, what are the local recycling practices of the place I am going? And on a much larger scale, what is the effect of tourism on the local ecology and economy for people in tourist areas?
While in Misiones it was weighing on my heart a lot. Speaking with a fellow traveler I met on the bus to the national park, an 80 year old man from London who had sold everything to follow his dream of traveling and living out of his backpack, he said he had been to Iguazu once before in the 80's and the town was practically nonexistent. In the past few decades it has grown massively to accommodate the rise in eco-tourism. Another friend I met at my hostel described the Brazilian side of the falls as 'less of a national park and more like I was at Disneyland'. He told me about the endless snack carts every few meters on the trail and plushies of toucans and jaguars wearing cheesy "Cataratas do Iguacu" t-shirts.
I was glad to have seen the falls from the Argentina side, as they had much more in the way of walking trails, and places to sit to simply take in one of the natural wonders of the world. To me at least it felt like a true national park experience, but even there it was hard not to feel like my 600p water bottle and 1800p sandwich shrink wrapped in plastic was a bit of an insult to mother nature. On one hand it's heartening to think about all the people who want to see the power of nature, who make the journey to experience the churning rapids and expansive jungle of Iguazu, to know that people care about the beauty our earth has to offer. On the other hand you see the parents who are encouraging their children to try and feed the capybaras and the massive pile of pennies and euros and pecos ad infinitum collecting in the falls because I guess anything with water is a wishing well now. We all know the horror stories of tourists that get bused in by the dozens, get a couple pictures, buy a tshirt, and leave like they just needed to check a box on their list.
So all of this to say, how can we do better? I am constantly torn by this need in my heart to see everything the world has to see and the ugly side of what my escapism means for those in the places I go. Now as I am in Argentina, it feels like even with nearly a whole year to live here I am barely scratching the surface of what this country has for me. Here are some of the things I am personally striving to be better at as I continue to see this country I love and this incredible planet that I love.
First, when traveling I think we need to be more thoughtful about the things we spend our time seeing. Play the game in your head, "am I a tourist or a traveler". Yes of course see the things that are deemed "tourist spots" if you feel that is something important for you to see, but if the majority of your time is spent at large shopping centers, chain restaurants, or the hotel pool ask yourself if you could've done the exact same thing closer to home. There is nothing wrong with a vacation for leisure, and maybe a history museum isn't everybody's jam, but even so take some time to learn about where you are going and what makes that place so special. If you are in the area to truly explore, try staying in a locally owned hostel. You'll meet other travelers who want to know the heart of that place, and get great recommendations on places that are actually worth seeing and might not make it on bloggers top 10s. If you are a person that enjoys museums, monuments, or parks, see the big ones for sure, but also see if there are smaller ones you can support as well. Entry fees in museums and parks usually go back to the conservation and protection of those places, which means by spending that extra hour or two to check out a local gallery you are supporting the local art scene! If you feel the need to do guided tours of places, which sometimes are genuinely the best way to see everything and learn about the area, go through small tour services. You are more likely to get better care that way than going with a huge travel company and you often get better info or make some cool stops at smaller local places. I took a bus tour of Scotland years ago and we stopped for lunch at a pad-thai place in the middle of nowhere?? It literally looked like a gas station on the outside but was so delicious and an unexpected joy.
In the same vein we need to start questioning where we put our money when we travel. Souvenirs contribute massively to the over consumption problem in the world. As an avid thrifter, the amount of times I have found mugs, bags, or t-shirts donated from someone's family vacation years ago is honestly heartbreaking. We don't all have to go the way of the lifetime backpacker, where every gram makes a difference so souvenirs are completely off the table, but we can think more critically about what we are buying and if in the next week, month, year, we will still want to wear the dorky Worlds Largest Ball of String baseball cap that we just HAD to have. I am a huge sucker for a cozy long sleeve T but have reached the point where I really only wear two or three of them and my others just sit around unworn so as cute as one may be, do I really need it? Look for things you know you will use, fall in your usual fashion style, and genuinely will be a positive way to look back on your time in that place. Some people keep collections so that every time they are in a new place they know exactly what to look for like stickers, key chains, or pins. This eliminates the problem of "well I want to buy something but I don't know what" in which you ultimately end up buying something you are so/so on just to say you have a momento from your week in Italy. I personally love stickers because I am never short of places to put them (water bottles, notebooks, my laptop) as well as jewelry! I love finding handmade jewelry I know I couldn't find back home and every time I wear it I will think of that time in my life. Also think about where these products are coming from. Sure that plushie of a toucan is cute and just screams Brazil, but it is also almost definitely bought wholesale from China and available back home off of amazon. Instead spend your money on items produced locally, things you can't find elsewhere, and support small and indigenous owned businesses. It will not only be paying back into the local market that you are benefiting from, but also will be a much more meaningful and authentic memory of your time there.
Be a decent human being and respect the space you are entering, as it is not your own. I think this one is honestly just common courtesy. The places we are going when we travel are not our homes and when you are entering another person's home you treat it with the respect it deserves. If you bring trash in, take it out with you. The amount of litter that fills some of the national parks is awful. It is not difficult to hold on to that empty chip bag and throw it out when you find a trash can. But also don't take out more than you brought in. I know that rock is a really cool rock but taking pieces of nature out of its home actually contributes to premature weathering of the natural landscape. It can also disrupt the habitats of animals and affect their ability to thrive in their own ecosystem. Imagine the sweet bird that could have used that stick in its nest before you toss it in your backpack. A friend of mine I met in Iguazu told me that in just the first 15 days of 2023, there had already been an approximate 50,000 people visiting the waterfalls. Imagine if every one of those people took a pocket of rocks with them. Imagine if every one of them decided to feed the monkeys. Imagine if every one of them thought "nah it's just one receipt no one will notice if chuck it in a bush." Suddenly its not about going to appreciate nature anymore, it is invading a space that isn't yours and deciding you have the right to treat it like trash.
Also as a person entering someone else's home, be understanding of their stories and realities. Especially when coming from a country like the US, I am constantly aware of the privilege and weight my passport and my dollar carries. With the economy the way it is in Argentina right now, I can't help but feel guilty knowing I am taking advantage of a system set up in my favor. My dollar is constantly rising in value here, while inflation goes up. The fact is, for many people, wages aren't livable right now. It's the least I can do to try and live on a same economical level and appreciate what it means for that new friend at the hostel to make dinner for everyone, or cover a round of drinks. Take time to hear the history and stories, visit museums or galleries featuring works by indigenous peoples, learn about local flora and fauna, just spend time caring about the place you are entering and not just the couple tourist attractions it can offer you. I think it is hard for us to see outside our own stories sometimes. Because yes this is a great adventure and will make a wonderful chapter in your life, but you are also playing a part in others lives and no matter how small that part is, don't you want it to be a positive one?
Overall I don't think there is a perfect way to do travel. We all have different things we want and need from our limited time on this beautiful earth and if buying a silly little sweatshirt that says "I got soaked at Niagra Falls" is the thing that brings you joy then get it. But also take a moment to think on ways we can care better for these places, so they are still there for us and for future generations to see. Its an incredible thing that we get to live in a world with so many different places and cultures to learn about and celebrate. Its a privilege and a blessing to be able to see the wonder the world holds for us. So lets not take it for granted.
Peace, KLB
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