• Check for signs of coolant leaks where the manifold runners attach to the engine block.

• While the engine is running, spray carburetor cleaner in short bursts where the manifold runners meet the engine block. If the engine speeds up, there is a leak in the intake manifold gasket.

Watch a Demonstration

• Sniff around the manifold for exhaust gas

• Use a stethoscope to listen for escaping gas (hissing)

• Pressurise the exhaust pipe and spray joints with soapy water to check for cracks

Watch a Demonstration

• Check the outer tie rod ends for free play by pushing up and down. Check the inner tie rod ends for free play by push front to rear.

• Rotate the steering wheel rapidly back and forth while observing the inner and outer tie rods for any vertical movement.

• Inspect all four seals for tears, perforations and wear.

• Lift the bottom of the seal up to examine the stud for signs of corrosion, especially around the knuckle.

Watch a Demonstration

• Observe audible clicking confirming injector operation

• Check trigger signal output from the PCM

• Confirm the injector has power

• Test the coil windings resistance using a volt meter

• Confirm injector valve operation

• Inspect the injector casing for leaks

• Check flow and spray pattern

Watch a Demonstration

• Check for loose parts (shake test)

• Inspect the Compressor Wheel for damage

• Check the Compressor Wheel bearing for play

• Check shaft for Piston Ring grooving

• Check for worn Piston Ring

• Check for Turbine damage

• Check for Turbine Housing damage

• Check the Bore and Wastegate Ports for cracks

Watch a Demonstration

• Listen for grinding noises caused by a worn starter drive not properly engaging the flywheel.

• Check for a whining sound and the engine not cranking. The starter gear is not engaging the flywheel due to a faulty solenoid or faulty plunger / fork lever.

• Check for smoke as an indication of an electrical short or a connection issue.

• Check for oil soaking which causes prematurely wear to the motor.

Watch a Demonstration

• Inspect the rubber portions of the strut mount for cracks or separation of the rubber from the steel.

• Rotate the steering wheel from stop to stop while listening for noises or binding caused by a defective bearing.

• Grip the coil spring as close to the upper strut mount as possible and push in and out. There should be no free movement.

• Raise the vehicle and watch for sideways movement in the position of the Piston Rod (center nut) in the top mount assembly. There should be no movement.

• Check the areas around the caliper piston and bleeder screw for signs of fluid loss.

• Check the piston dust boot and slider pin dust boots for cracks.

• Have your classmate push the brake pedal while watching the piston push the pads against the rotor. Have your assistant take their foot off the brake pedal and watch the piston release.

• Pinch off the brake hoses from the calipers one at a time. If the brake pedal firms, the corresponding caliper may be faulty.

• Remove the caliper and inspect the pads. On floating calipers, uneven pad wear indicates the slider pins are sticking.

• Check the piston seal by using a spreader tool to push the piston back into its bore. Crack the bleeder screw on the caliper and attach a vacuum bleeder to catch the released fluid as you retract the piston. Refill the master cylinder reservoir when the test is complete.

• Visually check the drivebelt pulley for damage.

• Start the engine and listen to the bearings for noise.

• Check for excessive soiling or oil contamination.

• Start the engine and touch the black multimeter lead to the battery negative terminal and the red multimeter lead to the alternator B terminal. The output should be between 13.8 & 14.2V.

• Have your classmate increase the RPM to 2000 or higher. The output should not vary. Variation is a sign the regulator is faulty.

• Check the electrode for deposits / colouration (below)

• Check for electrode damage

• Check for cracks in the insulator porcelain