Storage Location

Always select a spot that is convenient, accessible in inclement weather, and safe to store. Consider the below recommendations when choosing the best location on your property: 

• Keep the firewood pile at least 30 feet away from your house, deck, and other structures. 

• Position the woodpile so that it is uphill or on the same level as your home. If it were to ignite, this placement helps prevent the fire from spreading up a slope toward your house.

• Store the firewood away from other flammable materials, such as propane tanks, gasoline, and other chemicals.

• Place the pile on a level, well-drained surface like gravel or concrete, and elevate it at least 4 inches off the ground using a rack, pallets, or bricks. This prevents mold and pest infestation. 

• Keep stacks away from the crown of any trees by a horizontal distance of 15 feet.

• Leave space between the logs by stacking them properly, alternating rows of length and width to ensure good airflow.

• Maintain a 10-foot fire-safe perimeter of bare soil around the woodpile. This area needs to be free of any flammable debris or vegetation at all times. 

• Protect the wood from rain with a cover, but ensure the sides are left open for air circulation. A tarp, metal roofing, or a sloped cover will help rain run off. 

• Never stack firewood against your house or on wooden decks, as this provides a direct path for fire to reach the structure. This also invites pests like termites.

• Properly seasoned firewood has a moisture content of 20% or less. Hardwoods like oak and madrone can take one to two years to dry properly, so plan your storage location accordingly.

Storage Structure

• A dedicated firewood rack, log store, or shed is the best option as it provides support, lifts wood off the ground, and allows for natural airflow. 

• If the storage shed is near a fence, ensure the section of fence directly beside and around the shed is made of non-combustible materials like metal. Wooden fencing can allow fire to spread easily from one area to another.

• Shed Door Orientation: Position the firewood shed doors away from your home. Doors are typically the most vulnerable part of a shed. By orienting them perpendicular to your home, you can lessen the potential impact on your house in case the shed catches fire.

• Consider your shed’s location in relation to your neighbor’s property. Aim to build your shed away from any structures on their lot to reduce the risk of structure-to-structure ignition. 

• Take extra care to apply FireSmart principals to your home, especially the wall closest to the firewood shed. This can include actions like removing flammable items and flammable ground cover in the Immediate zone as well as prioritizing home repair to that space to reduce the impacts of heat or embers that could hit that area should the wood catch fire.

Wildfire Event

• If an evacuation notice is issued, your personal safety is the top priority. Do not delay your departure to relocate a woodpile.

• If time allows, move any stored firewood at least 30 feet away from your house, decks, and other structures to a cleared area of bare soil, uphill or on the same level as your home.

• A pre-evacuation plan is helpful in this scenario. 

Final Notes

Firewood stored 30 feet from the home can still pose a high risk of ember transfer if left exposed. Seasoned firewood is highly flammable and can generate intense heat and substantial embers when ignited. Consider using dual purpose fire-retardant tarps, which are treated to be slow-burning and self-extinguishing. Tarps Now is one of many companies that have a variety of sizes and Mils to choose from. 

Always check with your local fire department for current fire safety regulations.

Door mats are typically located in Zone Zero where no combustible materials should be present. Decorative coir mats ignite very easily. Rubber is a bit harder to ignite, but burns dangerously hot and for a long time. 

How Doormats Ignite in a Wildfire 

• During a wildfire, burning embers can travel for miles on the wind and land on flammable materials near your house. Many doormats, especially those made of natural fibers, are highly susceptible to ignition from these embers.

• Once ignited, a doormat acts as a fuel source, or "kindling," on your porch, deck, or directly in front of an entrance.

• The burning doormat can then transfer the fire directly to your home, a deck, or other combustible attachments. This is particularly dangerous for houses with wooden porches or siding.

How to Reduce the Fire Risk

• Choose the Right Material: Opt for doormats made from non-combustible materials like decorative metal grates or heavy rubber. 

• Check for Fire Ratings: When possible, look for doormats with fire-retardant classifications (like B fl or C fl) to ensure they are designed to resist flame spread. 

• For enhanced fire safety, consider placing doormats inside your residence to keep them away from potential ignition points outside, especially if the mat is a natural fiber.

Materials to Consider

Metal scraper mats: used to remove mud from boots, and are surprisingly effective as all-around door mats. Outside your front door, metal is exposed to water and air, and therefore subject to oxidation. The best metals are galvanized steel and stainless steel. In stainless steel, most common variations are 304 and 316 steel, with 316 steel being significantly more rust-resistant than 304 steel, but also more costly. Since rust stains, getting largely rust-free performance is important.

Garrett Wade or Lee Valley galvanized door mats, small (15x23") and larger (20x32"). These two door mats feature the same construction and get rave reviews. We purchased the larger mat a few years ago, and have been pleased with the quality.

Heavy-duty rubber mats: These are durable, resist fading, and provide superior traction. A good quality rubber mat will lay flat, resist curling, and won't rot. Some are certified flame retardant.

Lowe’s and Home Depot Black Rubber Outdoor Mats

First Mats and Waterhog Mats: flame retardant door mat (offer a variety of sizes/colors)

Important considerations

• Regular cleaning: Keep the area around your doormat clear of flammable debris like dry leaves and redwood needles.

• During high-wind "red flag" days or active wildfires, the safest action is to remove all flammable items from your porch and deck, including doormats, outdoor furniture, and cushions.

For patios in wildfire-prone areas, the best furniture is made from non-combustible materials such as metal (powder-coated aluminum, stainless steel, or wrought iron) or high-density polyethylene (HDPE). While no outdoor item is completely fireproof, these materials will not ignite from stray embers and will not add fuel to a fire.

Recommended Materials:

Metals

Metals are an excellent choice because they are naturally non-combustible. For optimal durability and comfort, look for options with protective coatings and use fire-resistant cushions that can be stored away during high-risk periods. 

• Powder-coated aluminum: A popular option for its durability, lightweight, and rust resistance. The powder coating adds an extra layer of protection against UV rays and heat. 

• Wrought iron: This is a heavy-duty material that is extremely stable in windy areas. It retains heat, so it is best used with fire-resistant cushions.

• Stainless steel: Highly durable, rust-resistant, and relatively heavy, making it suitable for high-wind areas.

• E-coated steel: An e-coating provides a durable layer of rust resistance.

Synthetics

Certain synthetic materials, such as HDPE, are highly resistant to moisture, UV damage, and extreme temperatures, and are designed not to burn. 

• HDPE (high-density polyethylene) lumber: This recycled plastic material is a low-maintenance, wood-like alternative. Brands like POLYWOOD specialize in this type of all-weather furniture.

• Synthetic resin wicker (HDPE): Resin wicker is a durable, low-maintenance, and fade-resistant alternative to natural wicker. It typically has a metal frame for stability.

Masonry

For a permanent and non-combustible patio solution, consider stone or concrete.

• Stone or concrete benches: These options can handle extreme temperatures and will not blow over in high winds. Cushions can be added for comfort and stored during fire season

Smart accessories and practices

Even with fire-resistant furniture, certain accessories and habits can greatly reduce risk during a wildfire.

• Create a defensible space: Maintain a non-combustible "home-ignition zone" of at least 5 feet around your house and deck.

• Use fire-resistant fabrics: Look for cushions and pillows with covers made from fire-resistant or retardant materials, such as olefin fabric, and store them inside during peak fire season or "red flag" days.

• Store combustible items: During high-risk seasons, store any cushions, umbrellas, or covers indoors or at least 30 feet away from your home.

Ladder fuels are the vegetation that allows a fire to move vertically from the ground to the tree canopies, acting like a ladder. 

Common Examples of Ladder Fuels

• Tall grasses and ground cover that lean into trees

• Shrubs

• Low-lying tree branches

• Trees under the canopy of a larger tree

• Woodpiles, wooden fences, and outdoor structures close to the home   

Why Are These Fuels Dangerous?

• Increased intensity: Ladder fuels facilitate the upward spread of flames, a process called “torching,” which can lead to crown fires. They are a major factor in increasing the severity and size of wildfires. 

• Crown fires: These fuels enable ground fires to "ladder up" and ignite the tree canopy, creating dangerous crown fires. Once a fire reaches the tree canopy, it can spread more rapidly and intensely due to the influence of wind.

• Embers: Ignited canopies can send flying embers over long distances, starting new fires ahead of the main fire front.

• Higher risk to structures: Ladder fuels can create a direct path for flames to spread from the landscape to homes and other structures.

How to Manage Ladder Fuels

Removing ladder fuels around homes is a key part of creating defensible space to protect properties from wildfires. 

The desired result is to create a situation in which a low-burning fire could burn to the trunk of a tree, which is protected by its bark, without having thinner, more flammable branches, leaves or needles within easy reach of the fire.

• Create defensible space: Remove ladder fuels to create a separation between the ground and the tree canopy. The required height depends on how low the branch tips hang, the steepness of slope, and the height and spacing of other nearby vegetation.

• Prune low branches: Make sure the trees around your home are healthy and free of dead wood. Prune tree limbs to create a clearance of at least 6 to 10 feet from the ground, or up to 16 feet, depending on the situation. 

• Remove small trees and shrubs: Clear out smaller, flammable trees and shrubs from beneath larger trees. 

• Manage ground cover: Keep grasses mowed to a short height and remove dead leaf litter and other debris from the ground. 

• Maintain regularly: This is not a one-time task. New growth needs to be managed to maintain the separation of fuel

Pace yourself! 

These updates to your landscape take time and can feel overwhelming. Plan to carry out this work over several months or years, according to your budget and availability. 

Protecting your home from wildfire can be impacted by the choice and placement of mulch and plants in your landscape. Here are some guiding principles when you are thinking about mulch for your yard.

What is mulch?

Mulch is made up of organic material like chipped wood and tree bark and is used to cover soil. A three-inch layer of mulch spread over bare soil will enhance the health of your garden. Benefits of mulch include the following: 

• Increased soil moisture

• Weed suppression

• Moderated soil temperature and insulating plant roots against extreme temperatures

• Improved aesthetics

Mulch Basics 

Before applying mulch, remove weeds and water thoroughly. You’ll get the best weed control when you weed first then spread the mulch. If sheet mulching, weeding may not be required. 

Replace grass with mulch under trees and around poles. Mulching under trees to the drip line minimizes competition for water and nutrients from grass and mimics the way trees grow in nature. It simplifies mowing and can reduce trimming operations and labor. In addition, mulching around poles, tree trunks and over surface roots prevents damage from mowers and weed eaters. 

Keep mulch 6-12 inches away from the base of trees and shrubs. Tree trunks are not suited to wet conditions. Placing mulch so that you can see the root flare keeps the trunk dry and reduces the risk of damage from disease, insects, and rodents. 

Choose the application rate that will give you the best results 

• Apply a layer that settles to 2-4 inches deep. This is the general application rate for use in planting beds. 

• Coarse Mulch: Use 4-6 inches or more to control weeds in open spaces. Coarse mulch is best for weed control; it prevents annual weed seeds from germinating. Weeds that do sprout are easier to remove. For maximum weed control, replenish mulch once a year. 

• You can have too much of a good thing: Use lesser amounts on poorly drained soils.

• Keep mulch on top of the soil to prevent tying up nitrogen. Woody material that is incorporated into the soil will temporarily inhibit the soil’s ability to supply nitrogen to the plants. However, according to research, mulch only uses nitrogen at the soil surface, and not from the root zone. If you do not turn mulch into the soil, you’ll prevent nitrogen drag. 

How to Calculate Mulch 

Mulch is often available in bulk, measured in cubic yards or tons. You can calculate the volume you will require by multiplying Area (in square feet) X Depth (in feet, not inches) and dividing by 27. Bulk sales can also be measured in tons. 

Types of Mulch

Chipped or Shredded Wood Waste from used pallets or used lumber is an attractive mulch on paths and picnic areas. The nails and other metal are removed and the pieces can be colored to look like pine, hardwood or cypress. Waste wood breaks down very slowly and releases insignificant amounts of nutrients to the soil. 

Longevity: Long 

Recommendations: Use on paths or at construction sites to reduce compaction from heavy foot traffic or heavy equipment. 

Wood Chips and Shavings can be made from many kinds of trees and make excellent mulch. They are attractive and stay in place, but may turn silver on the surface more quickly than bark. Wood chips are sometimes available free, usually in large quantities, from utility or tree companies, but not always on a regular basis. 

Longevity: Medium Long

Recommendations: To keep wood chips looking best, rake every year and add a new layer every 2-3 years. Before you buy, determine how the chips have been stored and check for a sour smell that signals chips haven’t been stored properly.

Mixed Plant Debris Mulch provides a broad range of nutrients and trace elements essential to build healthy soil. It can be any combination of the materials listed above, plus chipped brush, and other plant trimmings. You can produce it on site with a chipper/shredder. It settles more quickly than pure bark or wood because the leafy material breaks down rapidly. This decomposition allows nutrients to be recycled back into the soil. 

Longevity: Medium 

Recommendations: Ask your source if the mulch has been composted and for how long. Composting mixed plant debris at high temperatures destroys weed seeds and disease-causing organisms. 

• For best color and maximum weed control, replenish every year. 

• Sift out fines for better weed control and air movement to the root zone or leave them in for nutrient and organic matter additions to the soil. 

• Use for erosion control with or without seeding. Roughen slopes before applying. Distribute evenly to a depth of not more than 2 inches.

Compost is plant and other organic matter that has gone through a controlled decomposition process. It provides many valuable nutrients and improves soil structure. Used as a mulch, it may not control weeds, because seeds can germinate and grow in the compost. This is especially true in windy areas, where weed seeds can blow onto compost and grow. Recent research indicates however, that compost used as a mulch is very effective for controlling erosion. 

Longevity: Medium 

Recommendations: 

• Apply a layer of coarse, woody mulch on top of the compost for better weed control. 

• Select particle size for aesthetics. 

• Replenish annually.

Leaves are plentiful, and readily break down creating natural mulch that contains valuable trace elements. Leaf drop is nature’s way of returning nutrients and organic matter to the soil. However, leaves can be carried away by heavy rain or wind and dry leaves can be flammable under certain conditions. 

Longevity: Short 

Recommendations: 

• Let leaves lie where they fall, returning nutrients to the soil. Select sites under tree and shrub canopies and at least 10 feet away from hard surfaces and storm drains, to be used as a leaf repository. 

• Chop leaves that are resistant to decomposition, such as magnolia, with a mower. Distribute chopped leaves 2-3 inches deep, mixed with grass clippings and other trimmings if you have them, under a tree’s dripline. 

• If using whole dry leaves, apply about 6 inches deep. 

• Replace every year

Grass Clippings are a good source of nutrients, including nitrogen, because they decompose rapidly. Leaving the clippings on the lawn is the best use. They can be used as mulch when they are too long to leave on the lawn, but they are not considered as attractive as other mulches and, if applied too thick, they can form a mat. 

Longevity: Very Short 

Recommendations: 

• Hide clippings under a broadleaf ground cover. Evenly disperse clippings over the canopy, then rake lightly so they settle to the soil surface. 

• Mow before grass or weeds have gone to seed and use as a mulch in a vegetable garden. 

• Avoid using clippings from invasive turf species

• Avoid using pesticides that make clippings undesirable as mulch.

What is Fire Smart Mulch

Mulch has many benefits and there are many different types. Unfortunately, mulch can be flammable, and can pose a risk to your home if ignited.

Non-combustible mulch poses no fire risk and may help deflect a fire. This includes rock and gravel.

Composted wood chips are the least hazardous organic mulch. This is considered the best choice for residential landscapes. Caution: these wood chips burn primarily through smoldering, which might not be noticed by firefighters during a wildfire. All the other organic mulches demonstrated active flaming combustion.

Important: The thickness of a wood mulch bed, wind speed, and location of the flame and building all impact the potential of mulch to ignite and how quickly fire can spread to the structures on the property.

For more information, please review this study: The Combustibility of Landscape Mulches 

Mulch guidelines for defensible space:

Proper fire-smart use of mulch ties back to the three zones of defensible space:

ZONE 0: 0-5 feet

Use non-combustible mulches only (stone, rock, gravel, pavers, etc.)

ZONE 1: 5-30 feet

Use composted wood chips or medium bark nuggets, but not in a widespread or continuous manner. Although studies show that it has the slowest rate of fire spread, it is still considered a combustible material and could ignite wood siding, plant debris, and other combustible materials in contact with or immediately adjacent to the mulched bed.

Separate continuous runs of wood chip areas with non-combustible materials such as gravel, rocks, decomposed granite, or stone.

Limit depth of mulch to 2 inches deep.

ZONE 2: 30 feet+

Use larger, composted or non-composted wood chips or bark nuggets. Shredded rubber, pine needles and shredded western red cedar mulches, e.g., “gorilla hair” are the most hazardous mulches for use.  If used, the recommendation is to use in areas more than 30 feet from the house or any other structure.

Mulch depth of up to 3 inches is fine in this zone and beyond.

Embers that land in thick layers (more than 2 to 3 inches deep) tend to smolder and are more difficult to extinguish.

Burning wood mulch generates embers, increasing chances of direct flame contact spreading to structures.

Final Thoughts - 

Rather than vilify mulches, what we should be afraid of is unhealthy soil, drought-stressed plants, and vulnerable structures. We should be working to keep our landscapes healthy while we harden our homes. Mulch is not the enemy. On the contrary, used correctly it is one of the weapons we should be using to reduce how easily our landscapes ignite.

Privacy screens, composed of densely planted vegetation, serve as natural barriers to shield properties from prying eyes. However, in wildfire-prone regions, these seemingly harmless landscaping choices may pose unforeseen risks.

The traditional method of shearing shrubs and hedges from the outside creates dense, flammable interiors. Diving inside on a regular basis to prune out shaggy bits, dry twigs and branches will make them less flammable.  

Firebreaks and Defensible Space

Homeowners should carefully consider the spacing and composition of their privacy screens to ensure they do not impede the creation of firebreaks, which act as barriers to slow or stop the advance of wildfires.

Plant privacy screens can inadvertently hinder the establishment of effective defensible space by providing continuous fuel for fires.

Plant Selection and Maintenance

Opting for plants with high moisture content, low flammability, and a slower rate of growth can help reduce the risk of the vegetation becoming a fire hazard.

Routine pruning and removal of dead or dry plant material can limit the potential for wildfires to spread through the screen.

Hedge privacy screens are flammable because although green on the exterior, the inside of the plant is dry material.

Bamboo privacy screens are very flammable and difficult to maintain. In addition to the plant itself, the leaf litter at the bottom of the plants is usually hidden and builds up quickly. 

Alternative Solutions

For homeowners who prioritize privacy but are concerned about the fire risk associated with plant privacy screens, there are alternative solutions to consider. Hardscaping options, such as fences and walls made from fire-resistant materials, can provide effective privacy barriers without introducing combustible elements into the landscape.

Just as the three zones of defensive space define a fire-smart landscape, so do the placement of plants and other combustible materials within each of the zones. 

Creating space between plants in the yard, both vertically and horizontally, slows or stops the spread of fire. 

Horizontal spacing can be achieved by planting in clusters called plant islands or beds. Hardscape materials like stone, gravel, and boulders help create this space and can be used as attractive pathways throughout the garden. 

Vertical space is created by limbing up trees and reducing the height of plants near or under the trees. This eliminates a feature called ladder fuels which can spread fire from grass to brush to the trees themselves.

The following guidelines are critical components to achieving maximum defensible space.

• Provide vertical and horizontal space between shrubs and trees, especially on slopes, to avoid fire ladders (taller plants catching fire from nearby lower plants). The steeper the slope, the more widely plants should be spaced.

• Leave space between plant groupings with non-combustible surface areas like stone, gravel paths and other non-combustible, permeable materials to slow down the path of a fire and to allow easy access for maintenance.

• Avoid planting trees and shrubs in rows or hedges that provide an uninterrupted path for fire.

• Trim tall trees to remove limbs 6 ft to 10 ft from the ground, or up to one-third of their height

• Avoid massing shrubs at the base of trees or adjacent to structures, especially under eaves, overhangs, windows or decks.

*Please remember that if a house is situated on a slope or ridge, more space is needed between trees and shrubs to reduce fire spread.

If a home is located on a slope, in a drainage, in a windy area, or an area surrounded by unusually dense, tall, or combustible vegetation - thinning and spacing requirements increase. 

Additionally, if the home is in a vegetation type that is especially prone to wildfire, a greater clearance and separation between plants and plant groupings may be beneficial. However, the areas cleared from vegetation should be monitored and maintained to prevent the spread of invasive and flammable grasses. 

When the home is at the top of a slope, keep in mind that fire and heat rise, allowing for pre-heating of the upslope fuels, resulting in the potential for more intense fire behavior. In these cases, greater effort should be directed at the area downslope of the home with even higher levels of fuel treatments given to the area below a deck (if applicable).

Wind is another factor to consider alongside aspect and slope. A south-facing slope with southerly winds can easily span the 30 foot "lean and clean" recommendation. 

If there is horizontal space between the slope and your home:

• Consider constructing a stone or concrete wall between your house and the most likely path of approaching fire to help keep flames, heat, and burning embers away from the house. 

• This is also a good place to install a lawn, pool, or patio of non-flammable materials such as concrete, brick, or stone.

Vegetation on slopes should be low in both height and volume:

• Do not eliminate all vegetation, because bare slopes may be subject to erosion and instability. 

• Remove dead trees and shrubs, leaving the roots in place, if practical. 

• Eradicate invasive plants, which increase the threat of fire and cause other environmental problems.

Plant widely-spaced, deep-rooted shrubs on slopes to help control erosion:

• Intersperse these plants with mulch or low-growing groundcovers.

Mild slope (0-20%)

Shrubs should be spaced at least 2 times their height (2X) apart from each other.

Medium slope (20-40%)

Shrubs should be spaced at least 4 times their height (4X) apart from each other.

Steep slope (>40%)

Shrubs should be spaced at least 6 times their height (6X) apart from each other.

The steeper the slope, the more widely plants should be spaced to prevent fire from spreading.

Residents cannot control the number of incoming embers from wildfires, but they can control their exposure by hardening their property, structures and other interdependent factors against the embers.

Preparing for all fire exposures, not picking and choosing only one, is vital for improving home and building survival chances.

WILDFIRES SPREAD PRIMARILY BY:

Ember Storm: Flying embers are capable of igniting homes up to a mile away.

• Embers are burning or smoldering pieces of material generated during a wildfire event and traveling miles ahead of a wildfire by the wind. They can create spot fires when they land on combustible materials, such as leaves in your gutter, plants located under your windows, or even your doormat. 

Radiant Heat: Typically coming from nearby burning objects

• Radiant heat generated from the fire burning structures or plants can be hot enough to ignite a house without direct flame contact. This is particularly challenging in densely populated areas, where the heat from one burning home can ignite the next.

Direct Flame: Typically coming from a wildfire or a neighboring house

• Depending on time and exposure, direct flame contact can ignite your home. The flaming front of a wildfire is often not hot enough to ignite a house, but plants under windows ignited by embers or direct flame can break glass, allowing fire to enter the house.

Embers are responsible for the most damage during wildfires

• They can accumulate on your home, deck, or porch and ignite plants, mulch, leaves, fencing, or furniture. 

• They can also be forced into gaps in the home (e.g. attic vents or an open or broken window) and burn the home from the inside out. 

4 primary areas where embers can lead to structure ignition are:

• Landing on the structure

• Entering the structure

• Landing on the landscape surrounding the structure

• Landing on nearby fuels (fences, sheds, woodpiles, etc.)

Make sure these areas are routinely and carefully mitigated

• During a wildfire, embers can land on buildings and the surrounding landscape

• Embers can reach a building's interior through a point of entry, such as a window or vent

Interdependent factors

Residents must meticulously protect every potential part of the home and parcel that could become a point of entry for embers. There are many interdependent factors that influence the fire spread. An ember ignition can start a catastrophic chain of events. A single home catching fire can result in neighborhood destruction.

Smoldering

Sometimes embers smolder in flammable materials for many hours before leading to the ignition of fire on areas such as a roof or deck or areas outside the structure of a home or commercial building. Visible flames may not appear until hours after the wildfire flame front has passed.

Take action

To learn about 40 steps that should be taken to mitigate the potential of structure ignition by embers during a wildfire event, check out Table A in Appendix A of the NIST report “WUI Structure/Parcel/Community Fire Hazard Mitigation Methodology PDF.” and flammable grasses. 

The common conceptual definition of wildland-urban interface (WUI) is the geographical

area where human development meets or

intermixes with undeveloped wildlands

It is important to note that not all communities in the WUI have the same fire risk level.

 Three broad categories are considered when

evaluating risk factors:

1. Fire behavior potential (e.g., fuel types and distribution, slopes, prevailing winds)

2. Values at risk (e.g., structures, watershed, cultural/historical values), and

3. Infrastructure (e.g., road access/egress, water supply, firefighting capacity).

For a detailed explanation of WUI development, mitigation and code:

WUI Structure/Parcel/Community Fire Hazard Mitigation Methodology PDF 

WUI Fire Property Awareness Explorer

Search your address relative to the WUI and vegetation fuels -  

Launch Application

WUI Fire Community Awareness Explorer

See a snapshot of your neighborhoods potential exposure to wildfire hazards - 

Launch Dashboard

By adopting landscaping practices that consider basic principles of fire behavior - particularly the role of ember ignitions and fuel continuity - we can reduce these risks and the likelihood of homes burning. 

This guide provides a brief overview of the main principles of fire smart landscaping, along with photographs of attractive solutions.

Each section concludes with Frequently Asked Questions that offer additional information.

Marin Wildfire Fire Smart Yards

Succulents are in-demand landscape plants in California because of their beauty, ease of care, and ability to withstand drought by storing moisture in their leaves. And now there's another reason for homeowners to grow these fleshy-leaved plants: they can serve as a firebreak.

According According to Cal Fire, a wind-driven wildfire takes 10 to 15 minutes to pass through your property. What catches fire during that time will burn until extinguished or is reduced to ashes. Succulents may broil or bake, but they don't burst into flames or typically spread them.

Debra Lee Baldwin has an amazing website full of articles, resources, and videos. 

Discover how succulents act as a living firebreak and see pictures of a property saved by a succulent landscape.

Succulents Saved the Day!

Top Firewise Succulents

Firewise Landscaping with Succulents

Lassen Firesafe Council Plant Guide

Defensible Space Plants

Fire Safe Monterey Bay Plant List