https://manoa.hawaii.edu/exploringourfluidearth/physical/waves/wave-energy-and-wave-changes-depth
https://manoa.hawaii.edu/exploringourfluidearth/physical/waves/wave-energy-and-wave-changes-depth
TreeHugger's article, "What Causes Waves in the Ocean? Energy Analysis and Wave Types" explains that "A wave forms whenever energy passes through a body of water, thereby causing the water to move in a circular motion"(Means). This energy that moves the ocean around is what is known as a disturbing force. As you move down into the wave, this energy is slowly lost, making this circular motion of water smaller as you go down.
There are two main types of waves: free waves and forced waves. The Geophile Pages explains in their article "Wave Basics," the difference between free waves and forced waves. Free waves are able to "move without any further influence from the force that created them"(Leyva). An example of a free wave would be wind waves, which rely on wind to get them moving, but not to sustain them. For forced waves on the other hand, "movement is dependant upon the force that creates them"(Leyva). An example of a forced wave would be tides that are dependent on the gravity of the moon to move. Another type of wave is one created by sisemic activity. Tsunamis are an example of this type of wave.
https://rwu.pressbooks.pub/app/uploads/sites/7/2019/05/figure10.1.2.png
https://www.sciencefocus.com/planet-earth/how-deep-is-an-ocean-wave/
https://newsroom.unsw.edu.au/news/science-tech/story-wave-wind-blown-ripples-breaking-beach
Capillary waves are created by wind blowing over the top of the water. The size and strength of any particular wave is determined by how strong the wind is and how long it is moving the water. In an article titled "What causes waves in the ocean?" NewScientist's writer Alison George explains this in detail. George states that:
"The rise and fall of water molecules creates a wave that moves in the direction of the wind The wave
transports energy, not water. An analogy[that illustrates this] is a crowd of people doing a Mexican wave
in a stadium: they stay in the same location, but the wave they create travels around the arena"(George).
George goes on to explain what happens to waves when they get to shallower depths. She says that "as waves reach the shore, the shallow floor begins to run into their base, slowing their deeper parts," and that "this causes the wave to stand up then pitch forward before eventually breaking"(George).
https://www.timeanddate.com/astronomy/moon/tides.html
https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/education/tutorial_tides/tides03_gravity.html
Tides are caused by the combined gravitational pull of the sun and the moon. As the moon moves around the earth, a water bulge is created due to this pull of gravity. The bulge follows where the moon moves, which results in high and low tides. Essentially, there are three types of tides and each have to do with how many high and low tides a location experiences throughout the day. These are the diurnal, semi-diurnal, and mixed semidiurnal or mixed tides.
Diurnal Tides are where a location experiences one high tide and one low tide in a day.
Semi-diurnal tides are where a location experiences two high tides and two low tides in a day.
Mixed tides are where a location experiences two high tides (one of them being a high-high tide and the other being a low-high tide) and two low tides (one of them being a low-low tide and the other being a high-low tide) in a day.
Waves and tides have a significant impact on coasts. Water movement essentially forms the type of coast that will be present in a given location. The two types of coasts are erosioinal and depository coasts.
These types of coasts get rid of, or remove sediment from a coast. They erode rock to form bedrock beaches. Bedrock beaches typically have cliffs, notches, and caves that are all formed by the ocean. Other types of erosional coasts include river flooded valleys; fjords, which are carved by glaciers; and tectonic coasts, which are formed due to plate movements.
These types of coasts add on sediment to a coast. They deposit rock and sand to form sandy beaches. Typically, in order to form this type of coast, rivers bring sediment down from the mountains to coastlines where the sediment drops out and forms beaches. Additionally, as this sediment builds up, several landforms are be created, including sand dunes, spits, and bars.
Based on this website, it appears that the Great Barrier Reef typically experiences mixed semidiurnal or mixed tides given that it has two high tides and two low tides in a twenty-four hour period and that the tides are at different levels for each tidal event.
Means, Tiffany. "What Causes Waves in the Ocean? Energy Analysis and Wave Types." Treehugger, Dotdash Meredith, 31 May 2022, https://www.treehugger.com/what-causes-ocean-waves-5212833.
George, Allison. "What causes waves in the ocean?" NewScientist, NewScientist, https://www.newscientist.com/question/causes-waves-ocean/.
Leyva, Sonjia."Wave Basics." The Geophile Pages. https://geophile.net/Lessons/waves/waves_01.html.