Hilt Design Rules

Terminology

The steel pipe runs along the hilt length. The chassis slides into the steel pipe, leaving roughly 2 inches of extra space for the blade to slide into.

Blade Retention Screw

Blade retention screw hole is 11/64 inch in diameter and should be located within the first inch of your emitter, the higher the better.

Button Location

14.3 mm diameter hole for the button

At least 150.925 mm from the end of the chassis
At least 69.844 mm from the top of the emitter (2 inch blade well)

Button Location Examples

10 inch hilt, 2 inch blade well

Button can be anywhere between 70 and 103 mm from the top of the emitter

11 inch hilt, 2 inch blade well

Button can be anywhere between 70 and 128 mm from the top of the emitter

12 inch hilt, 2 inch blade well

Button can be anywhere between 70 and 153 mm from the top of the emitter

Pommel Open vs Sound Vents

By default, speaker is open to the bottom of the pipe. If you want to add a pommel, make sure there are some holes that allow sound to come out the bottom.

We generally recommend leaving end of the pipe open unless you want a very specific design detail for the pommel.

Crystal Chamber Accommodation

Crystal Chamber takes up ~50 mm of space either between button and main chassis OR button and top of chassis

For chamber between button and main chassis, subtract 48 from upper bound
For chamber between top of chassis and button, add 46 to lower bound

Prep for 3D-Printing

Follow these steps to ensure your parts are compatable with the chassis design.

Hollow out model

Create a 1.16 inch diameter circle on the bottom of your hilt (where you want your pipe to start) and extrude through your hilt

Measure tool is in the bottom right of the window. Click on the inner wall and outer wall of your part, ensuring the minimum distance is greater than 0.045 inches. Adjust model by editing features

Parts are recommended to be ≤ 7 inches long.

If necessary, we can print up to 9.5 inches long, but YOU MUST DISCUSS THIS WITH A BOARD MEMBER FIRST. Measure by clicking topmost and bottommost ring of part with the measure tool (in bottom right corner). Parts that are too long must be split to fit onto 3D printer.

To split, add plane offset from top, then use split body tool with new plane.

Split along seams when you can. For example, split at either or both of the green lines. Avoid splitting along flat areas like where red lines are.

Rename the new parts in the bottom left to remember which part is which.

You can export multiple parts at once, just make sure you check the box on the next window “Export unique parts as individual files” and they’ll automatically be saved to a .zip

Reminder: Do not export the "Steel Pipe" part. That will be an actual steel pipe so you do not need to print it.

Export the parts

Name: “First L - Saber Name - Part Name”
Format: STL
STL Format: Binary
Units: Millimeter
Resolution: Fine

Send parts to vt.lightsaberclub@gmail.com, subject name:

“F26 3D Printing - [First Name] [Last Name]”

Also send a screenshot of your CAD design

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