This is an exercise to simply let your dog explore the wobbly board. Dogs generally have issues with one of three things with the teeter:

1) The unstable surface or "tip" of the teeter 

2) The noise the teeter makes when it hits the ground 

3) Over-excitement to go fast/teeter fly-off 

By introducing a low wobbly plank, we are minimizing the tip (small piece of 2in PVC pipe in the center), minimizing the noise (there are small pieces of rubber on the underside at the plank-ends) and reinforcing a stopped contact behavior to try and prevent the above issues from happening right from the start 

This is a continuation of the wobbly plank exercise to reinforce the foot target at the end of the plank. I deliberately use a yellow target as this will be easier to fade out and teach the dog to target the yellow area of the piece of contact equipment. 

This is a game to help dogs that have issues with noise sensitivity from the teeter in order to desensitize and counter-condition the behavior with a reward (toy or food). The goal is to make as much noise as possible and make slamming the end of the teeter fun!  

I don't show this exercise here but I also have several wobble boards of various heights, textures and "wobbliness" to work with dogs that have issues with unstable surfaces. If dogs were not exposed to surfaces that had different textures and "wobbles" as puppies, they may have an aversion/fear to these. 

PLEASE don't force the dog onto the plank nor coax them onto it with treats. You are not teaching them anything but to vacuum up cookies by luring. By forcing them onto the plank, you are "flooding" them, forcing them to work through their fear uncomfortably rather than building up their confidence and reward as they make steps to investigate the plank on their own. It's also dangerous to force a dog on a leash or harness up a teeter or dog walk - if they decide to bail, they can be hung/injured. A dog new to contact equipment should never be exposed to the full height of the obstacle until they display confidence and fluency with lowered heights.  

For dogs with fear of the wobble, start with a flat, non-moving plank and let them explore - give treats for 2 paws, then all 4 paws on it. When they are comfortable with walking the plank, raise one end up a bit on a slant to build confidence. Then move to the wobble - build confidence in small steps! 

A finished teeter behavior consists of:

1) Safe approach (not jumping on from the sides) 

2) A controlled and deliberate ascent

3) The "tip" and "bang" of the teeter 

4) Proper foot placement within the contact area (yellow) 

5) Safe dismount/cue to next obstacle   

I became very aware of safety with contacts with Finn as his medications gave him serious side effects that affected his balance. We spent countless hours on physiotherapy exercises for foot placement/body awareness, foot placement on a target, forward focus and concentrating on the yellow contact area.

Regardless of how and what you train for the teeter behavior, to prevent injury, all dogs should have a complete understanding of the above steps for the teeter before you add height, speed and distance to the mix!