• White Spots around gills, fins and body.
• Can destroy skin and gill tissue as well as start secondary infections
• Very common. Causes skin irritation, respiratory distress, agitation, lethargy, loss of appetite, and POTENTIALLY FATAL.

CAUSES:

• Contact with Ichthyophthirius Multifiliis protozoans.
• Stress
• Ich. Multifiliis are said to live in every aquarium, but can only infect fish if they get stressed.

TREATMENT:

• 25% Daily changes
• Raise Water temp to 78-80 degrees fahrenheit.
• Medicate for 7 days or more (Ich Treatments - SOME CONTAIN COPPER SULFATE, DEADLY TO INVERTS. EXAMINE INGREDIENTS PRIOR TO PURCHASE. Malachite Green or Formalite Dosing)
• Feed foods higher in natural immunostimulants like beta-glucans or chlorella

• White Spots around gills, fins and body
• Very Similar to Ich, slightly different in appearance. This is a newer type of white spot illness, and while different it, it is practically the same as ich minus a few exceptions.
• Less common, however it has the same effects as Ich but is more resistant.

CAUSES:

• Contact with Neoichthyophthirius schlotfeldt

TREATMENT:

• SAME TREATMENT AS ICH, for 14 days instead of 7
• Retreating with medications is likely required.

• They do not pose an immediate threat to fish and are generally only seen in pond raised specimens.
• Digenetic Trematodes are a type of fluke parasite, and white grubs have been seen having a similar appearance to that of ich.
• Often start their life cycles on snails as their hosts before becoming free swimming.
• UNTREATABLE. However, it is possible to ease a fish from stress depending on the type of grub.
• Penetrated/Hemorrhaging/Ulcerating gills, fins, and cornea of small fish may be observed (Diplo spp)
• Blood, congestion and hemorrhage may occur at base of fins.

Internal Identification Factors:

• Generally more relevant in the heart, liver, kidney, spleen, and abdominal viscera

CAUSES:

• Contact with Diplostomum spathaceum and Posthodiplostomum minimum (a.k.a. Neodiplostomum minimum, Neodiplostomum orchilongum and Postodiplostomum orchilongum)
• Introduced through infested fish or plants
• “Grubs” may be endoparasites or ectoparasites, infecting internally or externally. There are 3 commonly seen types…

Black Grubs:

• Causes Black Spot Disease
• Pinhead sized (1 to 3 mm or 1/32 – 2/32 inch) black spots across the skin, tail base, fins, or in the muscle.
• Fish will appear “peppered”” due to the melanophores which surround the tissue-encapsulated metacercariae (the ineffective, encysted, tailless, late larvae stage of the trematodes)
• Sexually mature grubs will live in and reproduce in the digestive tract of the fish.
• The cercariae (free swimming larval stage) penetrate the fish’s skin, causing damage and hemorrhage.
• Until they become encapsulated inside the host, they deplete the fish’s oxygen levels and lipids (fats) from their bodies.
• Secondary infections may develop.
• If these are identified, increase oxygen levels in the fish tank slightly or incorporate a stronger air pump for stronger gas exchange. Maintain clean water to reduce the chances of secondary infection.

White Grubs:

• Small sized (no larger than 1 mm or 1/32 inch)
• Mainly affects the kidneys, liver, and heart. Will also affect the spleen, connective gut tissues, and ovaries.
• Penetrates the skin of the fish and are carried by the circulatory system around the body, where they develop into their grub forms.
• Hyperemia (bleeding) by base of tail and fins may occur.
• Organ failure may occur.
• Secondary infections may develop.
• Maintain clean water to reduce the chances of a secondary infection from setting in.

Yellow Grubs:

• Larger than yellow or black grubs in size (3 to 8 mm or 1/8 to 1/4 inch).
• Embedded into the muscle of the fish
• Has been reported to be present in one for as long as four years.
• Harmless unless heavily infected.

• Destroys biological filtration
• Causes irritation. The fish may be seen rubbing against decorations to soothe itself.
• Appears as a grey, green, brown, or golden dust on the fish’s skin. May have a velvety texture in appearance.
• Velvet gets into the fish’s lungs and will cause labored breathing and flared gills.
• Excess mucus is produced to try and flush out the disease.
• When it drops off the fish, blood patches and ulcers may be present.
• Can use photosynthesis under bright light, or feed off it’s host fish.
• Like ich, it has a free swimming stage and an attachment stage.
• Roots itself into the fish’s flesh using tentacles that dig under the scales and skin. May cause an allergic reaction in the fish, making it’s skin swell and bleed.

CAUSES:

• Contact with dinoflagellates in the genus Piscinoodinium, Oodinium (for freshwater) or Amyloodinium (for marine, such as Dinoflagellate spp.)
• Poor water quality/nutrition

TREATMENT:

• 25% Daily changes
• Dim or turn off lights completely
• 75-80 degrees fahrenheit*
• Medicate (Bettafix,Remedy, Prevent*Ich, Paraguard, Betta Revive, Copper Sulphate/Sulfate)**
• AQUARIUM Salt Dips (5 minute baths, 1 tablespoon per gallon)***

Images from https://www.thesprucepets.com/thmb/uu2RKQ01KPbieHm7iUkVZ7tWYCU=/450x0/filters:no_upscale():max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/Velvet_infection_Mydigitalife-56a3304a5f9b58b7d0d0e0d1.JPG and https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R3EbtN_nl14/TXYkh0lmoWI/AAAAAAAAAB8/9xbgZjSuOPQ/s1600/velvet.jpg

• Unusually thick slime coat which may cause dulled coloration, grey, white or blue tinting from the mucus may also be seen.
• Mostly around gills which can cause damage to the gills
• Can cause respiratory distress
• Lethargic, loss of appetite
• Fungus and finrot can develop with SD.
• Sluggishness may be observed
• Frayed Fins
• May be confused with the early development of velvet, and vise versa.
• Potentially FATAL.
• Gills can become covered with excess mucus and suffocate the fish

CAUSES:

• Several types of protozoans are known to cause the illness
• Can also be bacterial
• Contact with Ichthyobodo Necator (Costa Necatrix), Ichthyobodo Pyriformis (Costua Pyriformis), Chilodonella spp., and Trichodina spp. (Protozoans)

TREATMENT:

• 25% Daily changes
• Quarantine infected fish
• Medicate (Formalin, Copper Sulfate- deadly to inverts, Potassium Permanganate, Bettafix/Revive)
• 86 degrees Fahrenheit
• AQUARIUM Salt dosing (1 tablespoon per gallon dosing, or 5 minute baths)
  • ICHTHYOBODO NECATOR IS RESISTANT TO BRACKISH WATER AND SALT DIPS/DOSING WILL NOT WORK FOR THIS SPP.
    • If medication and treatment are ineffective it may be caused by Chilodonella. In that case, treatment through a water/formalin dip will be beneficial. HOWEVER, if the fish’s gills are damaged or infected, this may kill the fish. An Aquarium salt bath will be able to take the place of the formalin dip, followed by the formalin dip only if the salt bath was unsuccessful within the next days.

Images from http://www.aquaticquotient.com/gallery/files/5/4/2/WZ4R0305ER.jpg and http://bettacare101.com/protozoandisease/Chilodonella.jpg

• White cysts on body in various sizes as small as pinpoints (5-8 Macroscopic White, Oval Nodules Filled with mature Spores). Nodules may be seen in the irises of the fish’s eyes, under the operculum of the branchial cavity,dendritic organ (seen as yellow or white), liver, intestines, gill filaments, base of gill arch.
• Sunken Eyes
• Distended (enlarged or swollen) Opercula
• Sluggish Swimming
• Impaired Breathing
• Anemia and Abdominal Distention

CAUSES:

• Poor water quality
• Contact with Henneguya spp. Parasites (2-tailed spores)
• Ingestion or contact with infected food:
  • Tubifex Tubifex (tubifex worms) are known hosts for H. nuesslini

TREATMENT:

• Regular weekly changes, clean out detritus and worms.
• Bacteria Treatments
• avoid using oligochaeta and polychaete worms as live feed
• Quarantine any new fish to avoid introduction of more. Quarantine any infected fish.

• Attaches to tail and/or fins.
• Appears as a ship anchor attaching to the fish’s body, penetrating the skin and sometimes anchoring in as deep as the organs
• Swollen red ulcers develop by the worms themselves
• Secondary infection often sets in from bloodletting of fish by worms

CAUSES:

• Introduced with live plants or new/unquarantine fish.

TREATMENT:

• Medicate (Methylene Blue)
• Treat for larvae/eggs (organophosphorus insecticide such as metriphonate)
• Manual Removal of Worms (See Parasite Removal section for in-depth details of removing parasites manually)* and repeat of treatment after 1 week

*Manual removal is extremely important for the complete eradication of these parasitic worms. DO NOT AVOID MANUALLY REMOVING WORMS.

Images from http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_MOTNQWz_Hf0/TNXa4HeTdvI/AAAAAAAAATc/PIdRQjNs9a4/s1600/lernea+elegans+fish+anchor+worm.jpg and http://www.atlanticpondsupply.ca/image/data/anchor-worms-cyropro-canada.jpg

• The true form of this infection is very difficult to treat, and impossible when it reaches the later stages of the infection.
• Restlessness when lights go on/off (similar to Photophobia) and erratic swimming
• Self-isolation from the school
• White muscle tissue becomes visible in pale white patches
• Difficulty Swimming
• Cysts will develop on the skin, giving the fish a lumpy appearance
• Spinal deformation or curves may form in severe cases
• Secondary infection may develop
• Often confused for being columnaris

CAUSES:

• Ingestion of parasitic spores through consumption of infected food or deceased tankmates

TREATMENT:

• ISOLATION REQUIRED.
• Medicate (Methylene-Blue, Metronidazole, Aquarium salt, Nitrofurazone, Erythromycin, Nalidixic Acid, ParaGuard Parasite, Super Ich Plus, Furan 2, medicated wonder shells)
  • Erythromycin Phosphate is more effective than erythromycin sulfate. Phosphate can be found in AAP Mycin.
  • Super Ich Plus is stronger than ParaGuard
    • For Methylene-Blue:
      • 30 minute Bath treatment twice per day with 1-2 teaspoon 2.303% solution per 5 gallons or 10-20 drops per gallon with Kordon Methylene-Blue
      • 1 tsp/gallon AQUARIUM salt may improve the effects
      • Adding Nitrofurazone at double recommended tank dose to the bath may also be helpful, and erythromycin or nalidixic acid can act as a substitute for nitrofurazone.
    • For main tank treatment:
      • One dose naxalic acid for 24 hours followed by a large water change.
      • ParaGuard or Super Ich Plus may also be used in the main tank treatment when combined with Furan-2 or Metronidazole, but they are less effective compared to naxalic acid.
      • Medicated Wonder Shells can also be used for a follow-up treatment
      • Continue this regime for 7-10 days
• UV Sterilizers may help to reduce the risk of the disease from spreading fish to fish.

The first image shows a more advanced case of NTD. It has developed skeletal deformities at this stage.

Notice the white patch by the dorsal fin in the second image.

Images from https://tag-qgv8rvci.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Neon-Tetra-Disease-600x300.jpg, https://tag-qgv8rvci.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Neon-Tetra-Diseases.jpg

• Abrasion to the head that appears to be a pinhole
• Weight Loss
• Erratic swimming
• Decreased activity and appetite
• Angelfish may lay horizontally on water’s surface
• Abdominal distention
• Decreased hatchability and production of eggs (breeding pairs)
• FATAL IF LEFT UNTREATED

Internal Identifying Features:

• Inflammation of intestine or gallbladder

CAUSES:

• Parasitic Infection by Hexamita salmonis, H. truttae, H. intestinalis
• Transmitted through infected water and fecal matter

TREATMENT:

• Medicate [Parasite Clear, metronidazole, magnesium sulfate, and carbarsone, Metronidazole* (Flagyl - Bath treatment or orally administered)]
  • *Metronidazole - 50 mg/kg body weight (or 10mg/gm food)for 5 straight days. 18.9mg/gallon every other day for three treatments is also an option.
  • Metronidazole is the most commonly used and most effective treatment for hexamita to this date.
  • See Medication Choice and Dosing section (top) for a medicated gel food recipe for omnivorous fish.

Images from http://www.fishtanksandponds.co.uk/galleries//images/fish-health/AG_08671.jpg and https://i0.wp.com/advancedaquariumconcepts.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/discus-with-hole-in-the-head-full-size-1.jpg?resize=500%2C597

• Small and round brown/beige branchiuran crustacean appearing on fish body
• Fish may rub against surfaces in response to itchiness caused by the lice
• Broad, flat, oval shaped body visible to the human eye

CAUSES:

• Introduced through infected fish and tank inhabitants
• Parasitic Infection caused by Argulus Japonicus

TREATMENT:

• Daily AQUARIUM Salt baths (1 teaspoon per gallon, 6 minutes)
• Medicate: [trichlorfon, and emamectin benzoate, organophosphates, chitin synthesis inhibitors (such as the pesticide diflubenzuron/Dimilin/Chemtura*), lufenuron,Oral emamectin, formaldehyde, potassium permanganate, formalin]
  • Trichlorfon - 0.25 ppm for several hours, or two applications of (0.25 ppm; Masoten, Dylox)1 week apart
  • Organophosphates - usually given as 2 or 3 doses at 1-wk intervals to kill emerging larvae and juveniles
  • *Restricted Use Pesticide
  • Lufenuron - 0.13 mg/L
  • Potassium permanganate - 2 to 5 mg/1 bath

Images from https://i0.wp.com/www.dntaqua.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/fish-lice-argulus.jpg?ssl=1 and https://www.sciencedaily.com/images/2018/08/180823092030_1_540x360.jpg

• Several Types. Main species being described here is Ligula and Bothriocephalus acheilognathi
• Minnows are often targets of tapeworms. Abdominal Distension
• Fish are weak and slow-moving
• Discoloration of Body
• Emaciation and loss of appetite or increase appetite
• Fish may swim as if it has swim bladder disorder
• Look for white, stringy, and/or segmented poop. This is a good indicator of intestinal parasites

Internal Identification Factors:

• White, segmented worms may be seen. Potentially through the skin. As long as 20cm (200mm), often much longer than its host.

CAUSES:

• Ingestion of tapeworm cysts from any of the infecting species. Most relevant are Diphyllobothrium latum and Ligula and Bothriocephalus acheilognathi
• Introduced from new fish or plant
• Poor water quality leading to stress and susceptibility

TREATMENT:

• Medicate [Prazipro (Praziquantel), Medicated Food, dewormers, and other internal parasite treatments which can be mixed into foods or dosed direct into the water]
  • Praziquantel at 2 -- 10 mg/L for 1 to 3 hours in a bath
• Isolate and treat separately
• Vacuum the aquarium substrate to remove any living segments

Note that the poop from these two fish is pale, and white. It’s longer than usual too, both indicating internal parasites.

Image from https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/attachments/dsc_7821_sunsetwagplaty-parasites-crop-copy-jpg.133385/

• Appears as red or pink worms protruding through anus
  • Worms will return inside the body cavity when host is active
• May cause white feces (see above) and wasting disease
  • Note: Wasting Disease was not included in this guide. It is sometimes said to be another name for Fish TB (which is included), but it is also said to be a parasitic nematodal internal parasite. At the time of this guide being written, there is too much conflicting information and not enough which is consistent enough to write an entry.
• Fish may become listless and bloated
• Loss of Appetite
• Becoming very common

CAUSES:

• Transmitted through droplets of infected water
• Direct contact with other infected fish or equipment
• Improper disinfection of equipment after use with infected fish
• Introduction through new, infected fish with 4 wk QT
  • Callamanus worms take 6-12 weeks before being visible to aquarists

TREATMENT:

• Levamisole (13 ppm)
• Larger water change - as much water as possible
• After 3 days, change water and remove dead worms
• Treat for 3 weeks to eradicate all possible worms
• IMMUNE TO THE FOLLOWING DEWORMING TREATMENTS:
  • Prazi Medications (Praziquantel Powder, Droncit (Prazi), PraziPro)
  • Trichlorfon
  • Metronidazole
  • Fenbendazole
  • Likely many more
• Euthanasia may be more humane than allowing fish to live.
  • It has been reported that fish have had their stomachs burst to a heavy load of these worms. If treated fish do not fully expel all dead worms from their systems, they will decay within the gut can cause more infected and more issues which could spread to other fish in the tank.

Disposal of Dead Infected Fish:

• Allow dead fish to dry out completely before disposal. DO NOT PUT DEAD FISH DOWN ANY DRAINS. This will put worms back into our water system!

Images from https://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/data/attachments/100/100983-70a843a262c827eb6e5a48a3ca988a99.jpg and https://66.media.tumblr.com/05be02abdf02ccb34bbde1e317e59232/tumblr_inline_paqoe4WcWD1rc31vs_500.jpg

• Fish will scratch itself
• Abnormal/impaired breathing
• Abnormal swimming patterns
• Dark brown or black spots may appear in the muscle, on the fins, gills and body of the fish (about 2mm in diameter)
• Swollen and/or pale gills
• Excess mucus secretion
• Weight loss and/or lack of appetite
• Lethargy
• Erratic swimming may also be seen

CAUSES:

• Introduced by new fish or plant
• Generally caused by Neascus, although there are other types reported

TREATMENT:

• Medicate [Maracyn-Two, Masoten, Quinine Hydrochloride, Trichlorfon, FMC, Flubendazole, Mebendazole, Levamisole, Praziquantel, AQUARIUM salt]
  • Masoten - 25-35 g/L for 5-10 minutes
  • Quinine Hydrochloride - Bath for several hours to days
  • Trichlorfon - 0.25 to 3.0 mg/l for 3 days. The harder the water, the more that can be used. DO NOT OVERDOSE.
  • FMC - 1 liter of Formaldehyde (37%) (or 100 ml) 3.7 gm of Malachite Green oxalate (or 0.37 gm) 3.7 gm of Methylene Blue (or 0.37 gm) Dose: 1.0-1.2 ml/100 l tank water or 25 drops/100 l or 1 drop/gallon)
  • Flubendazole - 100-200 mg/100L for 1-2 days, 50% water change should be made after
  • Mebendazole - 100-200 mg/100L for 2-3 days, afterwards 50%-80% water change should be made
    • Note: should be dissolved in some alcohol
  • Levamisole - 100mg/100L for 1-2 days
  • Praziquantel - 300-500 mg/100L for 1-3 days or 150 mg/10L for 2-3 hours
  • AQUARIUM Salt - 5-10 mg/liter aquarium water; 10 gm/l for 1-2 hours or 5gm/l for 5-7 days

(Information on Masoten and down from: http://www.fishbase.se/diseases/diseasessummary2.php?discode=32 )

• Cataracts may develop with poor vision
• Fish may be unable to feed
• Darkened coloration
• May cause acute cercarial attack, caused by a large invasion of larval parasites into a fish’s body.
• Often invade through the fish’s flank, along the lateral line
• Extensive, hemorrhagic lesions across the skin
• Sandpaper texture where parasites punctured the fish’s skin
• Easily misidentified as a bacterial hemorrhagic syndrome or bacterial hemorrhagic septicemia.
• Abnormal swimming
• Spinal deformities may develop
• Anorexia and even emaciation in some cases
• Severe damage to bodily tissues
• Retinal detachment

MUCH less likely to occur in a home aquarium than an outdoor fish pond. This generally will not be seen in pet fish or ornamental fish, but it is entirely possible.

CAUSES:

• Generally caused by Diplostomum spathaceum but other species have been reported.
• Introduction by carrier snails or hosts.

TREATMENT:

• Medicate (PraziPro and other internal fish parasite medications)
  • Specific treatments forms are not readily available for flukes.
  • Potentially similar treatment for gill flukes may be effective against eye flukes, but should primarily be meant to target internal parasites.

Images from https://5mpublishing.sirv.com/fish/legacy/files/articles/old/Diplostomum_spathaceum.jpg and https://i.ytimg.com/vi/BICkR4P98Ik/hqdefault.jpg

• Occurs in the gills, and on the skin in advanced stages
• Impaired breathing
• Skin “cloudiness” (excess mucus)
• May turn over while swimming, as if the fish as swim bladder
• Gill covers (operculum) open
• Clamped fins and scratching against decor
• Loss of appetite
• Fish is generally hanging at surface of water, but may be lethargic at the bottom
• Parasite may occur on outside of skin causing excess mucus production in advanced cases
• Ulcers and bacterial infections may form as secondary infections

CAUSES:

• Propagation occurs by cell division.
• Introduced with new fish, plants, infected water or live foods.

TREATMENT:

• 0.02% salt concentration in tank or pond if possible
• Medicate [Malachite Green, Formalin, Copper, Potassium Permanganate, Acriflavine (trypaflavine)]
  • If Acriflavine (trypaflavine) is used, it should be at 1% (5mL per L). Water changes should be done gradually after the treatment.

Images from: https://www.fitzfishponds.com/media/Fish-Disease-Spotlight-Chilodonella.jpg, https://fishpathogens.net/sites/fishpathogens.net/files/styles/pathogen_carousel/public/images/chilinodella_CB01.jpg?itok=Atq0ZSJd, https://www.koisale.com/chilodonella%20(1).jpg

• Large roundworm infection by Capillaria spp. commonly found in the guts of angelfish and discus, but can also infect other fish.
• Weight loss and emaciation
• Intestinal blockages
• Darkened color
• Thin and translucent feces
• Two Species:
  • Capillaria philippinensis (causes intestinal capillariasis)
  • Capillaria hepatica (causes hepatic capillariasis - related to liver - C. HEPATICA IS NOT FOUND IN FISH.)

CAUSES:

• Eating infected foods (tubifex primarily)
• Females deposit eggs into the intestines, which are released with feces

TREATMENT:

• Medicate [Fenbendazole, levamisole (Chanaverm), fluke tabs (aliquot)]
  • If using Fenbendazole, use the gel food recipe in Medication Choice and Dosing section to prepare a medicated food at a rate of 0.25% fed for 3 days and repeated in 3 weeks.
  • For aliquot fluke tabs (the following adapted from http://zebrafish.wustl.edu/trtmntCap.htm):
    1. 13.2mg dissolved in 50mL aquarium water for 1L of treatment solution.
    2. After 24-hours, change 1/3 aquarium water from previous treatment and do a second round of 13.2mg in 50mL aquarium water to bring medication concentration from 13.2mg/L to 22mg/L
    3. After 48-hours, repeat previous step to bring concentration to 27.86mg/L
    4. After 72-hours, if no signs of the worms are present, fish may be moved into a quarantine tank outside of the solution before being moved back to the normal tank. However, if there are signs of the worms, start a second round of the treatment from the beginning.

DISPOSAL OF DEAD FISH AND INFECTED FECAL MATTER:

PRIOR TO DISPOSING OF DEAD FISH, FREEZING TO KILL PARASITES IS RECOMMENDED SO THEY DO NOT CAUSE FURTHER INFECTION IN WATER SOURCES AND ENVIRONMENTS:

• At -4°F (-20°C) or below for 7 days (total time), or
• At -31°F (-35°C) or below until solid, and storing at -31°F (-35°C) or below for 15 hours, or
• At -31°F (-35°C) or below until solid and storing at -4°F (-20°C) or below for 24 hours.

DISPOSING OF FECAL MATTER:

• If possible, fecal matter should be dried or frozen prior to disposal.

Worm and egg. Images from: http://zebrafish.wustl.edu/images/adultcapwrm.jpg and http://zebrafish.wustl.edu/images/capegg.jpg