EXHIBITION
The Secrets of Beads 'Imfihlo Yobuhlalu'
The catalogue for this exhibition (on the left) is downloadable.
All illustrations seen below can be found in this catalogue, as well as many others.
Love letter necklaces
Zulu name: Umgexo/Ipasi Geographical location: Maphumulo Age of the pieces: 1970s
Date of acquisition: 1989; Purchased: The Goodman Gallery, JHB Design: Isigcwensa
Purpose of the piece: Worn by a young man Material used: Plastic beads, glass beads, wood, cotton string
Love letter necklace
Zulu name: Umbhijo
Geographical location: Msinga, KZN Age of the piece: 1970s
Date of acquisition: 1986 Collector: Mpostoli Mzila
Design: Isijozi colours, with the words ALALA meaning congratulations
Purpose of the piece: Worn by young men and women to congratulate their group member on his/her marriage
Other purpose: It can also be worn on the engagement or at the wedding ceremony Material used: Glass beads, cotton fabric, cotton thread
Cascade necklace Zulu name: Isiyeye
Geographical location: Msinga, Mashunka, KZN Age of the piece: 1920s
Design: Isishunka
Purpose of the piece: Worn by married men Material used: Glass beads, cotton
Beer strainer Necklace Zulu name: Ivovo
Geographical location: New Hanover, Mt Elias, KZN Age of the piece: 1960s: Date of acquisition: 1989
Purpose of the piece: Worn by married women Material used: Glass beads, cotton thread
Waist belt Zulu name: Uthela Geographical location: Maphumulo, KZN Age of the piece: 1960s
Design: Isigcwensa; Purpose of the piece: Worn by young unmarried men and women
Material used: Plastic beads, glass beads, brass studs, wood, cotton string
Beaded belt Zulu name: Isibhambha Geographical location: Msinga, KZN Age of the piece: 1940s
Design: Isishunka Purpose of the piece: Worn by married women
Other purpose: To hold in the stomach after giving birth Material used: Glass beads, Incema grass, brass studs, fibre,
Pregnancy apron
Zulu name: isicwayo / isibhodiya
Geographical location: Msinga, KZN
Age of the piece: 1940s
Design: Isishunka
Purpose of the piece: Worn by pregnant women as maternity apron
Material used: Canvas, glass beads, animal skin, brass studs, fibre
Bridal cape/apron
Zulu name: Ibhayi
Geographical location: Bergville, KZN Age of the piece: 1960s
Design: Isikoti
Purpose of the piece: Worn by the bride at her wedding ceremony Material used: Glass beads, cloth, cotton
Leg decoration
Zulu name: Amaqhulu Geographical location: Msinga, KZN Age of the piece: 1960s
Date of acquisition: 1986 Maker: Utho Ngubane Design: Insengu
Purpose of the piece: Worn by young men and women
Material used: Galvanised wire, leather, brass studs, metal studs
Trouser decoration Zulu name: Iziqhana zobheshwana Geographical location: Ulundi, KZN Age of the piece: 1970s
Design: Amaxhiba
Purpose of the piece: For young men to decorate side pants for special ceremonies Material used: Glass beads, wood, plastic, cotton fabric, cotton string
Sweet tin
Zulu name: Ingane/ishungu Geographical location: Estcourt Age of the piece: 1980s
Purpose of the piece: Tin to carry sweets or gifts
Material used: Enamel tin, brass studs, wool, glass beads, plastic leather
Young married woman doll Zulu name: Umakoti Geographical location: Msinga Clan: Muden
Age of the piece: 1990s Date of acquisition: 2001
Purchased: The African Art Centre Maker: Lobolile Ximba
Purpose of the piece: For sale Material used: Glass beads, wool,
corrugated cardboard skirt, wire, metal studs, ‘takkies’ - rubber and canvas shoes, shoelaces Size: H80.4 x L30cm
Beaded Dolls and Soft Sculpture
Dolls were used for many purposes in traditional African societies and come in many varieties. They were originally not made to be sold. Dolls play a role in fertility, healing, courtship and children’s games. Beaded dolls and animals were also made for play by young girls and boys. The older girls made dolls in connection with courtship customs.
Traditional healers/Isangoma use dolls to heal patients. If the patient is too sick to visit the sangoma, the members of her/his family will dress the doll with her belongings and take it to the sangoma for healing. It is believed that whatever the sangoma does to the doll, will automatically help the patient. Dolls made as an ornament to decorate a car were also used for protection from accidents. The sangoma would put umuthi inside the stomach of the doll so that the umuthi could remove a bad spirit from the car.
A beaded doll can also be hung over a woman’s bed as a lucky token if she is longing to have a baby. After the birth of her baby the doll will be destroyed. The mother will make a doll for the child when it is ready to play with toys.
Hluphekile Masgubhu Zuma from Mabomvini, Msinga area in KwaZulu-Natal, has been making beaded dolls for sale since 1978, the same year in which she lost her husband. She sold dolls at the roadside and to the community. Hluphekile taught her skills to her daughter Lobolile who has married into the Ximba family. Lobolile started making traditional-type dolls as toys for her children. This is a departure from the original use of beaded dolls in the courtship context, a custom which had lapsed before Lobolile`s time. Lobolile is now known for her large dolls wearing ‘takkies’ (rubber tennis shoes), which she dresses in the same way the married women would dress in her area.
The beaded dolls and beaded sculptures from Inanda and surrounding areas known as Valley of a Thousand Hills: The dolls were not part of traditional life in the Inanda. This form of expression was seen as new and contemporary in the early 1980s. The artists well known for making beaded sculptures, are the Mchunu family comprising sisters, sisters in- law and relatives.
The Durban Art Gallery has collected dolls and beaded soft sculptures from Thembi Mchunu, Sizakele Mchunu, Celani Nojiyeza, Khulumelaphi Hlambisa, Gcinani Mchunu, Khulumelaphi Mlaba, Zanele Shangase, Gabigabi Nzama, Busaphi Ngubane, Tholani Mchunu and Thokozile Gwala.
Zanele Shangase and Busaphi Ngubane were the first two artists to make this form of sculpture and they were encouraged by Jo Thorpe to make more. Thembi Mchunu was very well known for her tall dolls, winning an award in 1984 on the Things People Make Exhibition at The Durban Art Gallery. She began to bring new beaded sculptures to the African Art Centre such as a horse and rider, and animals including monkeys and birds. The animals were very well received and she encouraged her sisters to make more of this kind of sculpture. Each had their own unique style of bird or animal.
Sizakele Mchunu married into the Nojiyeza family and was well known for her outstanding creativity. She was innovator of beaded tableaux or stories. Sizakele died in 1989 giving birth to twins. When Sizakele was still alive she shared her skills with her sisters Thandi and Mavis Mchunu. Celani Nojiyeza was married to the same husband as Sizakele; when Sizakele died Celani took care of the surviving twin. Gabigabi Nzama was an extended member of the Nojiyeza family, she become known for her flying machine (mehlo kahulumeni).
Helicopter - The Eyes of the Government
Zulu name: Amaehlo-kahulumeni
Geographical location: Botha’s Hill, KZN Clan: Kwa-Nyuswa
Age of the piece: 1992
Maker: Gabi -Gabi Nzama Design: open net stitch
Purpose of the piece: For sale
Material used: Glass and plastic beads, fabric, cotton, galvanized wire Size: H14 x L36cm
Pot Covers
BEER POT COVER – IMBENGI/ UNYAZI
This is a woven grass saucer-shape used to cover the beer pot (ukhamba) and also used to serve dry food such as millet, maize or pulses. It is made by wrap-stitching a slim foundation coil of grass (incema grass with ilala palm), opening a small hole at the edge of the inner coil with an awl. binding them tightly together and then decorating with beadwork. Good examples of the imbenge were found in Melmoth, Msinga and Nkandla areas where they were also decorated with beadwork and mirrors. The mirror decoration was very useful - when people were drinking they could look at themselves to see whether they had a bubble of the beer (ingwebu) in the corner of their mouths (called ukuzishiyela).
The other decorations used were plastic lids, tops and sometimes a wooden stand was attached to the bottom of the imbenge. This could be used as a handle to lift it, or as a support to make it stand when not in use.
When the beer pot is full with beer (utshwala), the imbenge will face down to show that there is still beer in the pot. When the ukhamba is empty the imbenge faces up and the people who have been offered the beer will get the message that there is none left. Special imbengi are made for wedding ceremonies, for the bride to give as gifts to the male members of the in-law family.
Beer pot cover
Zulu name: Imbenge
Geographical location: Msinga, KZN
Design: Isishunka
Purpose of the piece: To cover beer pot
Material used: Glass beads, cotton thread, grass Size: H6 x dia.19cm