The introduction of the brownie at the 1893 Columbian Exposition (Chicago, US) shifted the general perception of chocolate from a beverage or bar to an ingredient that is used to create more complex food items, replicating practices that had been in use since the Aztec and Mayan (mole perhaps being the most obvious example). The brownie was developed by a chef at the request of Mrs. Potter (Bertha) Palmer who wanted a mess-free chocolate snack for ladies. The addition of other ingredients prevented the chocolate from simply melting onto the gloves that were commonly worn by women at the time. This invention has led to the rapid growth in the creation of baked goods, desserts, and savory dishes that include chocolate as an ingredient. It is so common nowadays to have chocolate as an ingredient that it is nearly impossible to find a cookbook or restaurant menu that does not include at least one chocolate option (usually in the dessert section). The earliest brownie recipes to appear in cookbooks actually did not contain chocolate; however, the first recipes for brownies with chocolate as a main ingredient appeared in the Sears Roebuck Catalog in 1897 and in the Machias Cookbook, a community cookbook from 1899. As it became more common for chocolate to be used in baked goods and the creation of other such desserts, it started to appear with increasing regularity on menus. At the Columbian Exposition, there were many innovations in the chocolate world being displayed, including Maillard’s Exhibit of Fine Chocolates & Cocoa.
Along with his invention of the cocoa press in 1828, Coenraad Johannes van Houten developed the Dutching process in which an alkali is added to cacao during processing in order to reduce its acidity and darken its color. By the late 1800s, people began using Dutch processed cocoa powder with regularity in baked goods, ultimately making the transition of chocolate as simply a stand-alone food item to a common household ingredient.
Mrs. Potter Palmer (Bertha Honoré) was President of the Board of Lady Managers for the 1893 Columbian Exposition (her husband owned a grocery which ultimately became Marshall Field's & Co) at which she helped ensure that women held a welcomed and noted presence. In addition to her feminist work, Mrs. Palmer requested a chef to develop a mess-free chocolate snack for ladies that was introduced at the Exposition – the first time the world had experienced a brownie.
“Through the agency of National and local boards, such evidences of women’s skill in the various industries, professions and arts have been brought together as must convince the world that ability is not a matter of sex. […] It was in consequence of the vivid realization of this that the Board has with ceaseless vigilance endeavored to secure for women the opportunity to show what they also could do, if given the opening. In no other way might woman ever hope to receive the proper recompense for her services than by actual demonstration that in industry, the professions, the sciences and arts, discrimination upon the score of sex was solely the result of mutable conditions.”
Prior to the late 19th century, chocolate was primarily regarded as either a thick beverage or a solid nutritious food to be eaten by children and adults alike. As seen in this trade card of the time, the image associated with the Walter Baker & Co. Chocolate Company is their signature tin for drinking cocoa, as opposed to a bar of baking chocolate. Cadbury, in his book Cacao: All About It (1896), mentions the addition of steel to their chocolate, as an antidote for "green ladies," or those suffering from chlorosis.
The introduction of the mess-free brownie at the 1893 Columbian Exposition seemingly sparked the inclusion of chocolate in sweet creations the world over. The first recipe for a chocolate brownie to be published in a cookbook was this one, which appeared in Machias Cookbook in 1899.