[ S4: Troubleshooting ]

Bashan, Peace Sports, & all contributors of this manual are not responsible for any damage
done to your bike from upgrading &/or maintaining it. Any work you perform on your bike yourself is at your own risk; so be careful, patient, & vigilant!

This section only covers BASIC Troubleshooting. If you have problems or questions beyond what is covered here, we strongly suggest that you join the official Brozz Facebook Group &/or a motorcycle forum (e.g. ChinaRiders) &/or group to troubleshoot further & ask questions.

PAGE CONTENTS

Won't / Hard Start

Won't / Hard Start

Ignition Systems Check

Make sure your right-control Kill Switch (if you have one) is in the "On" or "Run" position
Make sure your key is in the "On" position
Make sure your remote-start has been fully disengaged before trying the right-control Ignition Button
Check your battery voltage / charge (it should be at least 12.9v; if not, trickle-charge it overnight)
Check (or have checked; via shop) your "black box" (CDI), ignition coil, starter relay, &/or starter
Check your spark plug (for fouling / grime, or damage)
Check your right-control (ignition button) wiring for damaged or bare wires
Check your fuse(s); incl. the main
Replace your right-control

Fuel Systems Check

Make sure that the carb choke is on; esp. if it's cold outside or the bike has sat for a while
Make sure you haven't flooded the carb (e.g. too much fuel; you'll smell it if you have)
Check for debris in the gas tank, petcock (fuel valve), fuel filter (if you've installed one), & fuel lines
Remove & thoroughly clean the carburetor (incl. the jets, needle, slide, & bowl)
Drain your gas tank (via fuel line from petcock that drains into gas can) & replace with fresh gas

Other Checks

Make sure you're in neutral, or if in gear, squeezing the clutch lever (this isn't as safe as being in neutral)
Check or change your oil (& make sure to clean the oil screen) ~ see maintenance section
Check your valves (timing) ~ see maintenance section

Throttle Stutter

Fuel Systems Check

Make sure your petcock (fuel valve) is set on "On" (for 20% or more fuel), or Res (for less than 20% fuel)
Make sure that the carb choke is NOT on (esp. after the bike has warmed up)
Make sure your jet size &/or your needle height is correct ~ see maintenance section
Check for debris in the gas tank, petcock (fuel valve), fuel filter (if you've installed one), & fuel lines
Remove & thoroughly clean the carburetor (incl. the jets, needle, slide, & bowl)
Drain your gas tank (via fuel line from petcock that drains into gas can) & replace with fresh gas

Ignition Systems Check

Check your spark plug (for fouling / grime, or damage)
Check your spark plug wire for damaged or bare-wire spots (where it could be arcing or grounding)

Backfiring

Fuel Systems Check

Make sure you're running either non-ethanol fuel (pref.), or high-octane ethanol fuel with enzymes
Make sure that the carb choke is NOT on (esp. after the bike has warmed up)
Make sure your jet size &/or your needle height is correct ~ see maintenance section

Intake & Exhaust Systems Check

Check for air leaks between the air filter & carb-engine manifold
Check for damaged exhaust manifold seals &/or loose pipe connections (incl. at the engine & muffler)

Smoking

Coming soon...

Leaking

Leaking Oil

Make sure your oil drain plug & oil screen plug are both tight, & their seals (o-rings) are in good condition
Check the timing cover seals (o-rings), & ALL engine gaskets (incl. the head); replace as needed

Strong Fuel Smell / Leaking Fuel

Make sure that the carb choke is NOT on (esp. after the bike has warmed up)
Make sure you haven't flooded the carb (e.g. too much fuel; you'll smell it if you have)
Check for gas leaks in the gas tank, petcock (fuel valve), fuel filter, fuel lines, & carburetor

It's natural for the bike to have a "fuel rich" odor, even when it is jetted properly; esp. in colder months &/or when first starting it up. This is only a concern when your bike isn't starting / running properly, or when you have a fuel leak.

Shifting Problems

Various Systems Check

Make sure that your clutch cable is properly adjusted (better for it to be on the "tight" side) *
Make sure you are using JASO-rated oil (which is wet-clutch approved), as "car oil" can cause clutch slip

* As the engine / bike heats up, both the clutch & brake cables will get "softer". The best way to solve this problem is to install adjustable clutch & brake levers.

Vibrations

Wheel & Tire Check

Make sure you don't have any loose spokes (tighten them if you do) ~ see maintenance section
Check your wheels for warping or other types of damage (replace them if you find any)
Check the weight-balance of your wheels (or have a shop check them)
Check your tires for objects or damage (e.g. tacks or other item that may be buried in the tread)
Check your tires for bubbling, cupping, or any other anomaly (replace them if you find any) *

* "Knobby tires" (e.g. more aggressive tread for dirt) will often create more vibrations on the road than tires made for the road. The stock Brozz 50/50 tires (50% road / 50% dirt), for example, will create more vibration than the Shinko 705 80/20 tires (80% road / 20% dirt), when driven on the road.

Engine Check

Make sure your engine isn't low on oil, or aren't in need of changing it ~ see maintenance section
Make sure that the excessive vibrations aren't being created by your engine; if they are, you may need to rebuild it **

** Even a counter-balanced engine will have some vibration to it. One of the best ways to reduce the engine vibration you feel in the handlebars / your hands is to install an accessory bar (which adds rigidity to your handlebars) &/or weighted handlebar ends; hand-guards can also serve this purpose.

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