I keep most of my actively breeding mice in one of two rack systems-- my 18qt male rack, or my 38qt female/nursery rack. I've also got a rack system out in the hall that I use for my quarantine mice, just so they're separate from my main breeding area. Eventually, I'd like to build one or two more small racks to use for more grow-out boys to give 'em time to be adopted. The extra small racks would also be useful for mommas with young litters, as I've noticed the large nurseries can make some moms anxious when I only keep one litter per cage.
The racks are made of lumber frames, wire mesh tops, and those clear hefty bins they sell at Walmart and home depot. I use normal water bottles fed through the top of the cage, though I've considered a watering system so I don't have to wash 20 water bottles every week. Maybe someday!
So why did i go with a DIY rack system, rather than bin cages, lab bins or tanks?
well,
racks take up less space, are easy to clean, keep stuff very well organized, and because I designed it with hefty bins, it's super easy to replace a cage if I ever need to-- one trip to the store and $6 later, and i've got my replacement bin!
I wanted enough space to put saucer wheels for excercise and entertainment. Many other rack designs are too short or small for wheels, but in these hefty bins, I can fit a saucer wheel and a nice cozy 2-3 inch layer of bedding, as well as a few hides.
maintaining normal large cages is not feasible for a breeder. To provide the best care possible, I need an easy, efficient, streamlined setup. This means heavy, breakable glass tanks, and awkward hard-to-clean bar cages are out of the question.
These little rack cages aren't the size of your typical pet enclosure and can't fit the usual bells and whistles, but fancy stuff isn't practical in a breeding setup anyway-- making 30+ hides, ripping up 5 bags for nesting material, cleaning 8+ wheels and 15+ water bottles a week is a lot all on its own! When breeding mice, you need to keep a LOT of active cages, at least 5 with one line of mice. And if you want more than one, you'll need about 4-5 more cages per line. That is a LOT of cages to keep maintained. As a breeder, I need to spend as much time focusing on basic care, baby checks, and colony planning as possible! Imagine cleaning 15-20 full-size pet cages a week while checking on babies--oof😬. Thankfully, many of these mice are too busy raising babies or chilling with ladies to need anything toooo fancy. Once they're done with their work, most will go on to either cozy pet homes, or my personal retirement cages that actually have the fun stuff. I guess mice have to deal with the studio apartment for a while before they can earn the mansion, too😅
I definitely prefer my rack system, but bin cages have their own perks and i always have a few handy!
these are made with any clear clasping bin, with the lid cut out and replaced with 1/4" wire mesh held on by zip ties. The water bottle sits on top, usually supported by a wood hopper. i've found this to work better than feeding the bottles through the side, as the water is less likely to leak all over the bedding when the mice dig it up.
I do most of the cutting and hole-making with a dremel and metal shears. Very fast and simple to make in an emergency, and easy to maintain/clean! I use them for transporting mice, quarantine, or when I have a lot of extra growout males I want to keep an eye on or sell. any bin cages I make with the hefty bins can double as rack system bin replacements, so that's pretty handy too.
I do really love setting up a good, elaborate mouse cage. Since I can't feasibly do that in my breeding setup, I have my own personal 40 gallon tank that I use for my does! My retired ladies, and ladies who are currently taking a break from breeding get to come here to chill. The design changes every few weeks as I try out new toys, and I have SO MUCH FUN! It's by far the hardest cage to clean, but it's worth it. The lid is a DIY wire mesh lid, since most lids are poor quality and don't hold weight well. I have cats that come in here on occasion, which means our lids need to be STRONG. No cats are getting my ladies!
I sadly don't have a male retirement cage, but I am working on a front-opening cage design for a divided male cage that can hold 2 boys at a time, while keeping them separate and safe! I have a couple of retired boys I just keep in my rack system, but I'd love to spoil my old gentlemen as well. Once I make a male retirement setup, I'll post the glorious end results here😁
This stuff's great. I know some people get nervous about pine because if it isn't kiln-dried it's definitely dangerous. but I mean, this kiln-dried stuff is great! controls odors well, stays pretty dry, it's soft and cozy. I've been using it for 4 years with great success, and at a much better price than any other bedding I've found at local stores. This WHOLE MASSIVE 12 cubic foot bag costs just 17 DOLLARS! I get this stuff at IFA, and it's by far the best quality stuff I've found.
Brown paper bags are the MOST IMPORTANT nesting material component. you can skip the orchard grass, but i never leave out the paper. this stuff is basically thin cardboard, and does a great job and keeping nests warm and cozy. urine and other nasty also tends to just fall right off, so it keeps nests dry and clean, too! very important when you've got babies.
Orchard grass is there less for coziness, and more for structure. The mice love to use it in the walls of their nests and tunnels, so that everything stays in place. they also enjoy nibbling it on occasion. i prefer using orchard grass over any other hay type because it's softer, longer, and less dusty.
I dont want to struggle through cleaning 50+ plastic hides a week, so instead I just go to my local Sam's club and take all their cardboard boxes😅. It can be awkward, walking through the isles and just snagging carboard--but hey, it's free and would be trashed anyways. I take it all home and cut it into one of two shapes-- a corner, or a long. Corners are great for smaller cages and in-between hides, while longs are great for larger cages, nurseries, and platforms to put stuff like wheels on. These also double as chew toys, and at the end of the week they just get tossed! No washing required.
i'll use any water bottle that works😅. I've mostly got these kaytee blue critter canteens, which work well in my racks. the spotted bottles aren't as nice, but they work ok when upside down in my rack system.
paper towel tubes, dried herbs, forage treats, rosewood chews, random carboard scraps... basically any mouse-safe object i feel like tossing in! some weeks i use more than others, but i try to include at least a couple extra enrichment items per cage. mommas usually end up adding them to their nests.
along with that, hand-taming for young weanlings, cuddles for retirees, playground time for mommas and mating for boys provide some entertainment!
I get these 40lb bags of pellet food at IFA, and then separate them into buckets for safekeeping. I go through every night and drop a few pellets per mouse into each cage while doing health checks.
OATS: for nursing does, weanling pups, or old/sick mice. helps with milk production, weaning and adding weight.
SEED MIX: a fun forage, sprinkled into bedding a couple times a week to provide entertainment.
BLACK OIL SUNFLOWER SEEDS: provide protien and nutrients to breeding females, and reward treats for males or during bonding.
I like to keep myself clean and safe, too! I'll often wear gloves and occasionally a mask on cage cleaning day, just so i come in less contact with poop and dust. You're gonna get nasty no matter what when dealing with that many mice, but it doesn't hurt to glove up!
and the scale is used for weighing mice. it's especially useful for pregnant/nursing does, to ensure they are maintaining a good weight. also great for ill or elderly mice.
I keep a bottle of permethrin on hand for mite treatments, which i do out of caution 1-2 times a year, or whenever i see mite issues. mites can come from almost any source, so it's better to be prepared for the worst.
diatomaceous earth also helps control mites, along with other pests! i treat all my feed with it, including treats. by dusting my feed, i reduce the chances of grain mites or mealmoths infesting my food.
A heat mat is a huge help when you've got a critcally ill mouse. It is great for maintaining their body temperature, even when they need to be separated from their buddies.
and antibiotics can be risky to use so please see a vet if you dont know how! i personally like amoxicillin oral form best, and have used it a couple times to help with respiratory infections.
I dont have a photo, but i also keep vetericyn spray on hand. it's great for treating wounds, and reduces the chances of infection.
If you've done a lot of research on keeping mice as pets specifically, this cage here may look small to you., but it's actually the perfect size for the mice and purpose within--Breeding! Cage size is one of the most highly contested points in all of mouse husbandry, with breeders and pet owners disagreeing often on what size cage is adequate for mice. I find the reasoning behind it fascinating;
On the one hand, you have these tiny little prey animals that get scared easily and like to hide in small, cozy spaces. then on the other, they are somehow simultaneously these super hyper, highly intelligent little ninjas who can solve puzzles and (sometimes) enjoy running long distances if given the chance.
From how I see it, Pet owners will be most familiar with the intelligent, curious, often bored side of mice. In a normal, safe, cozy pet setup where the owner does a lot of bonding and life stays relatively consistent, there isnt a lot to be stressed over or careful about. this leaves a lot of room for play in a mouse's daily life! The greatest joy a mouse owner can have is setting up a beautiful cage and watching as their mice explore and play on every bit of it. I adore this part of owning mice and take great enjoyment in putting together my retirement cage every week.
But in a breeding setup? It's a whooooole different story:
Breeders see the curiosity and spunk in mice, sure, but they also see mice through every other delicate, stressful stage of life. These mice aren't just chilling all day-- they're working hard! Every day brings new challenges, cage mates, and even new cages and owners. As a breeder, you have to be intimately aware of the stress levels and health of your mice, while these conditions are constantly changing. From birth, to weaning, to adulthood, to bonding with a mate, to mating, to pregnancy, to giving birth, and to recovery from birth; Every step of the breeding process brings an intense physical and mental change in the mice and demands specific care needs from the breeder.
here are some important differences that make the pet community's recommendation for large, elaborate pet cages unrealistic (and even dangerous) for breeding mice:
Toys and puzzles are hazards to moms with litters, mommas can get on wheels and send babies flying if they're still latched! they can also serve as a distraction to a less attentive mom, leading to her neglecting her pups. Toys can cause social stress when introducing new mice to a breeding cage as well, leading to resource guarding and territorial agression in some instances. If you've ever bonded new mice to your old colony, imagine doing all the work needed for introductions every week, with over a dozen mice!-- Breeders have a lot of social interactions to keep track of and control. This means having as few objects that retain scents as possible is important. I don't personally recommend using wooden toys in a breeding setup for this reason--only plastic and carbdoard. having a simple cage that is very easy to sanitize will also be handy for stopping the spread of health issues that more frequently pop up in large breeding groups. Big elaborate pet cages are NOT ideal for this at ALL.
ROUTINE: there is a lot more change in a breeding setup. With ever-changing numbers of mice in varying stages of life, it's almost impossible to keep things consistent. with large groups of mice, constant litters and cages galore to clean, we don't have as much time to bond with our actively breeding mice. they need to focus more on each other than on hanging out with us, anyways. But all this change and unfamiliarity means mice in breeding setups have less time to explore and grow comfortable with their environemnt, and are more prone to getting stressed when faced with a LOT of space, or change all at once. a slightly smaller, cozier, simpler cage with lots of clutter will allow them to feel at ease, even when they suddenly pop out babies, or have some random lady mouse dropped into their cage one night.
HEALTH CHECKS: Mice are much harder to check for health when you have to go digging through a large cage for them daily. Health checks being harder increases the risk that you as a breeder miss an important health issue. Smaller cages allow for more close supervision of actively breeding mice. In a pet setup, it's not quite as probelmatic to have a massive cage, as you only have a small group of bonded, low-stress mice to look over for daily issues. you can easily train your 4-8 gals to come out for treats on a daily basis, so a large cage is awesome! But with actively breeding mice and so much change, the risks are just too high that something goes wrong. It's worth the smaller cage to have better supervision
hopefully my thoughts on this were informative!! I 100% think mice kept in pet setups should be given more fun things to do and space to play in. There's no need to reduce their cage size unless a health issue pops up! i still personally recommend a 20gallon minimum for either a single pet male or group of 3 pet females. but for breeders? as long as all the basic needs can fit, you're probably good for a temporary cage. the most important thing is ALWAYS that the mouse is safe, healthy, and getting its basic needs met.
Under Construction
under construction