Situated in the Pilbara area of Western Australia, the Burrup Peninsula - also known as "Murujuga" meaning "hip bone sticking out" in the Ngayarda language of the peninsula's Jaburara people - is home to one of the largest collections of Aboriginal rock art in the world. Murujuga is a world-famous site of prehistoric art dating back to the Upper Paleolithic era - about 30,000 BCE.
The Archipelago was formed approximately 8,000 years ago when rising sea levels flooded what were once coastal plains.
Aboriginal people from this region identify themselves as Ngarda-Ngarli and say they have lived in this area since time immemorial, with the last tribe known as Yaburara.
It is assumed that initial occupation of the Dampier Archipelago started in the Pleistocene and that the area was intensively occupied throughout the Holocene.
A plot of the dates from the inland Pilbara reveals the low-intensity occupation from 35,000+ years ago; with an increase in the early Holocene – but with the most intensive period of occupation being in the late Holocene – and in particular the last millennium.
McDonald, Josephine & Veth, Peter. (2011). Study of the Outstanding Universal Values of The Dampier Archipelago Site, Western Australia. 10.13140/2.1.1446.9445.
With more than one million images in an area of more than 37,000 hectares, Murujuga is home to one of the most significant and diverse collections of petroglyphs in the world which documents the transition of an arid maritime cultural landscape through time (McDonald 2015, Mulvaney 2015, McDonald et al. 2018).
Murujuga has the densest known concentration of hunter-gatherer petroglyphs anywhere in the world (Jo McDonald Cultural Heritage Management 2011, Australian Heritage Council 2012, Mulvaney 2015).
“What makes Murujuga special is the density and absolute amount of rock art,” Benjamin Smith, Professor of World Rock Art at University of Western Australia says. “The art also has a longer sequence than any of these other sites, extending from recent times back at least 40,000 years, probably 50,000 years.”
The prehistoric rock engravings of Murujuga feature a wide variety of subjects and motifs, including depictions of extinct megafauna such as the Tasmanian tiger (thylacine), and human figures in everyday as well as ceremonial activities.
As well as being majestic works of art, these carvings provide remarkable scientific insights. “Murujuga has some of the oldest known images of the human face and a series of extinct animals,” says Professor Benjamin Smith. “The changing fauna within the art shows massive climatic and environmental changes over time. The site was once more than 60 miles inland. Now it is a peninsula surrounded by sea.”
Rock art researchers so far have catalogued only 3 percent of Murujuga’s total area, an ongoing project that has recorded 50,000 images, Smith says. There could be up to 2 million petroglyphs at Murujuga.
Art that imagines humans as non-human animals.
Stylised human figures
The most outstanding characteristic of the Dampier petroglyphs, apart from their enormous number, is their incredible diversity, both in style and content…the Dampier artists appear to have been free of strong artistic conventions. No two motifs are identical, few are even similar.
The art ranges from abstract to naturalistic: it reveals expressions of ideation, religion, ancestral cosmology; images of the animals that have populated the Archipelago since inundation – as well as those from before the sea-level rise. The art shows people engaged in hunting, dancing, ceremony and social union. There is a clear proliferation of stylistic diversity in critical economic resources like turtles, macropods and fish.
This part of the Pilbara coast has been subject to decades of intensive archaeological investigation. The impetus for this work has been a combination of long-term research (focussing on significant rock art and occupation sites) and the major resource developments which have occurred over the last 35 years, with the resultant need for cultural resource assessment.
Unfortunately, archaeologists can't date rock engravings directly.
Unlike cave painting which involves the use of colour pigments and other organic matter - much of which can be dated - engravings leave no organic residue. Furthermore, unlike dateable archaeological layers that accumulate within the confines of an underground cave, there is little in the immediate environment of an open-air petroglyph that can be used to indirectly date the work of art itself.
The rocks themselves can be dated, in fact recent cosmic radiation tests on engraved rocks at Murujuga indicate an age of 40,000 BCE or older. (But note also that the Pilbara region contains some of the world's most ancient surface rocks, including granites that are at least three billion years old.) However, the age of an engraved rock cannot tell us when the engraving was made.
Even where lumps of red ochre pigment have been discovered and dated, it is not possible to be certain that they were used in the creation of pictographs or paintings. This is because both body painting and face painting appears to have been a widespread tradition of aboriginal culture during the Upper Paleolithic.
Despite the absence of scientific data on the dating of Murujuga's ancient art, archeologists attempt to arrive at a reasonable estimate as to the period within which it might have been created, by looking at factors like weathering patterns, the style and content of the art, evidence of habitation and the use of colour pigments like ochre.
A consideration of these factors, suggests that the oldest art in the Pilbara was created well before the last Ice Age, which occurred around 22,000 years ago.
Certainly, given that the earliest human habitation in northern Australia - the Madjedbebe rock shelter - has been dated to about 53,000 BCE, it seems perfectly reasonable to conclude that these early modern humans would have started to paint, draw or engrave pictures by 30,000 BCE.
While Murujuga has a phenomenal concentration of artistic production – it is accompanied by significant evidence of other focussed human activity: stone tool making, quarrying and reduction, seed grinding, shell mounding, construction of stone pits and standing stones and general occupational activities such as stone artefact production and wooden artefact manufacture and maintenance.
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The Australian continent has been continually inhabited for at least 50,000 years. The Aboriginal people of Australia are the longest surviving continuous culture(s) in the world, despite the fact that their traditional lifestyles, languages and connections to country were severely degraded by the European settlement that occurred at the end of the Eighteenth Century. The Burrup peninsula, in the north-western corner of Australia, is home to a vast gallery of petroglyphs, or rock carvings, which tell a story of human habitation that stretches back tens of thousands of years, well before the last ice age to the time when Neanderthals still inhabited Europe.
Known as Murujuga in the local Aboriginal language, the site contains more than one million petroglyphs across 36,857 hectares of the peninsula and surrounding Dampier Archipelago. The petroglyphs of the Murujuga peninsula “have been considered to constitute the largest gallery of such rock art in the world.” The most recent petroglyphs were carved in the 1800s, before the Yaburara People (the artists and traditional inhabitants of the area) were murdered or driven off the land in a period of sustained colonial killings in 1868 known as the Flying Foam massacre.
Among its treasures Murujuga contains pieces of rock art that are some of the oldest known examples of art by prehistoric humans. The oldest of the petroglyphs at this site date back some 40,000 years. Among many things the Murujuga petroglyphs depict, there are pictures of some species of megafauna, such as the giant flat-tailed kangaroo, which became extinct around 30,000 years ago. The Murujuga site is also home to the first known image of a human face in history, carved about 35,000 years ago. The value of these ancient carvings, not only for Australia’s first nations people, but also for all of humanity, is inestimable.
However the northwest of Australia is also home to massive iron ore, oil, coal, mineral and gas reserves, as well as other heavy industry. Industrial scale mining in areas including the Burrup Peninsula has, from the early twentieth century, contributed to Australia becoming one of the per capita richest developed countries in the world. Thus it comes as no surprise that the preservation of the Murujuga rock art has been subordinated to economic and corporate interests. In the 1960’s development of deep-water ports to transport iron ore was carried out without any survey work. This survey work was not done because museum recommendations on preservation following survey work on nearby rock art had hindered other proposed developments. “A great deal of rock art was destroyed on the peninsula in the 1960’s” writes Robert Bednarik, an archaeologist who, since the early 2000’s has been arguing for greater steps to be taken for protection so that the petroglyphs may be saved from further destruction.
These developments, along with those of and around the original town of Dampier, where coastline was bulldozed and filled in, including a major site on which the power-station was erected, has destroyed an estimated 20 to 25 percent of the population of petroglyphs. The Murujuga rock art is now under threat from chemicals associated with mining, and nearby fertilizer plants. The site currently sits adjacent to the largest gas refinery in the Southern Hemisphere.
In 2018 the Western Australian government formally committed to pursuing World Heritage status for the Burrup peninsula and together with traditional Aboriginal native title land owners signed off on an application to have the site listed under the UNESCO world heritage programme.
Central to any proposal for a site to gain recognition as world heritage is a ‘statement of outstanding universal value.’ The notion of ‘outstanding universal value’ means that sites are seen as part of the ‘heritage of mankind as a whole,’ and as such ought to be protected and transmitted to future generations. Sites of ‘outstanding universal value’ can gain World Heritage status by meeting one of ten possible criteria. At least the following three clearly apply to Murujuga: the site represents a masterpiece of human creative genius and cultural significance; it bears a unique or exceptional testimony to a cultural tradition or to a civilization which is living or which has disappeared; it is directly or tangibly associated with events or living traditions, with ideas, or with beliefs, with artistic and literary works of outstanding universal significance. A site of ‘outstanding universal value’ therefore marks a remarkable accomplishment of humanity, and stands as evidence of our cultural, intellectual and aesthetic history on the planet.
The importance of gaining world heritage status for the Murujuga rock art is that world heritage status is a strong catalyst for better protection and management. It is also a strong statement of what we value and why. Present in the very idea of world heritage is a sense of reverence for the achievements of human life, civilization and culture through time, and the idea that relics of such achievements from the distant past teach us all something about what the human journey has been. The importance of protecting the Murujuga rock art lies in its value to humanity – as a record not just of human history as something in the past, but as a testament to human creativity.
The Murujuga gallery is a place of enormous anthropological and archaeological importance. But unlike other sites of prehistoric art, such as the ancient cave paintings in Spain and France, it is part of a living cultural tradition. For Australian Aboriginal people, places of special sacred significance, and objects and artifacts produced by ancestors, form part of a living cultural tradition, in which ancestors are ‘present’ – captured in the notion of Dreamtime with its complex understanding of place and time in which myth, narrative, past and present mingle.
But the possibility of a successful application leading to official world heritage listing is dependent on there being a good chance the site can be preserved. This aspect of the application already looks shaky, as the West Australian government is apparently not prepared to make sacrifices to industry, current or future, that would put the interests of the petroglyphs above those of industry.
The WA government is currently pursuing further industrial development alongside the world heritage listing. Regulators in Western Australia are considering proposals for two new chemical plants on the Burrup peninsula that would increase air pollution. A Senate report has warned emissions from heavy industry on the peninsula could damage the carvings, prompting rock art experts to call for a halt to new industry approvals until an accurate picture of the damage being done to the petroglyphs can be assessed. Any plans to increase industrial development in the region could damage the rock art and undermine efforts to secure world heritage listing. UNESCO has already indicated that the current level of industry on there may impinge on the possibility of World Heritage listing.
Consider the analogy between the destruction of Murujuga and the worldwide outrage at the destruction of the Bamiyan Buddhas by the Taliban in 2001 along with the heartbreaking destruction of Palmyra by Isis in 2016. These actions caused a widespread global sense of shock both at the loss of irreplaceable historical and cultural treasures as well as at the barbarity with which they were destroyed. Is it any less barbaric to fail to prevent the slow destruction of the Murujuga petroglyphs, through insidious neglect and capitulation to industry?
Those advocating for the preservation of the Murujuga petroglyphs face a difficult fight to protect these beautiful, delicate and ancient artworks, which reach as far back as human history, from the industrial juggernauts of fossil fuel mining and heavy industry destroying our collective human future.
It’s no wonder there’s a sense of urgency right across the Pilbara, right across the state. Because there’s a fear from our old people–our Elders–that our heritage isn’t being respected. In 2014, the Government began trying to make amendments to the Aboriginal Heritage Act so they could fast-track approvals for mining and resource companies to destroy sites.” (Tyson Mowarin)
More than 40,000 years before the British brutally colonized Australia, this region in the Pilbara was inhabited by the Ngurra-ra Ngarli people. That is the collective term for the Aboriginal traditional owner groups of Murujuga—the Ngarluma, Yaburara, Mardudhunera, Yindjibarndi, and the Wong-Goo-Tt-Oo.
It was these people who named Murujuga, which covers the Dampier Archipelago and adjacent Burrup Peninsula.
Of the other significant rock art sites in the world—from 7,000-year-old carvings in Norway to 25,000-year-old cave paintings in Brazil and 13,000-year-old paintings in Zimbabwe—none rival Murujuga for volume or continuity.
On a remote peninsula in Western Australia, a 16-hour drive from the nearest city, 30,000-year-old faces stare at the rare visitor to this wild location. Those human depictions are part of Murujuga.
Dating back tens of thousands of years, this cluster of one million images on the Burrup Peninsula is like an artistic encyclopedia, depicting human and environmental evolution. Carved into rocks are images of changing landscapes, tribal customs, and now-extinct species. These petroglyphs also reveal the mythology of one of the world’s oldest civilizations, Aboriginal Australians.
When people first started using this landscape 50,000 years ago, it was located around 100 km from the coast. It was wetter and warmer than it is now – and the archaeological record of the coastal plain at this time demonstrates an entire group of animals no longer found in this part of Australia. Murujuga’s artists engraved some of these animals, such as crocodiles.
Then, during the last ice age (between 30,000 and 18,000 years ago), the coastline was even further away (160 km). People were living in the Murujuga Ranges at this time. There are a number of engravings of animals that are now extinct, such as thylacines and a fat-tailed species of kangaroo, which testify to the changing environment.
The most recent rock art includes dugong, turtles, fish as well as the small rock wallabies and quolls that now live on the islands.
The artworks in Murujuga were made on the rocks using stone tools. Together they show how people have been living in the region for thousands of years, first as hunter-gatherers, and later with a focus on fishing.
For the Aboriginal people of the Pilbara region, including the Ngurra-ra Ngarli, the petroglyphs are the work of the Marrga, the ancestral creator beings. They are a permanent reminder of Traditional Lore and retain their spiritual power. On Murujuga, the petroglyphs are an inherited and ongoing responsibility of the Ngurra-ra Ngarli (Jo McDonald Cultural Heritage Management 2011). The songs and mythologies for many of the images, such as Minyuburru (Seven Sisters), the fruit bat and Archaic Face, have important meaning across the whole of the Pilbara region and are central to Ngurra-ra Ngarli culture.
According to the mythology of the Ngarda-Ngarli people, Murujuga’s rock art was shaped by the Marrga ancestral creator beings. These spirits helped to shape the natural world. They also inhabit the Dreamtime, a set of legends and beliefs that underpin Aboriginal culture, explaining creation and offering a guidebook to human life.
McDonald, Josephine & Veth, Peter. (2011). Study of the Outstanding Universal Values of The Dampier Archipelago Site, Western Australia. 10.13140/2.1.1446.9445.
“Some of these carvings are our Lore and Culture. The Lore, it goes from here, right to Uluru, from Uluru into the desert and back again to the West. That’s including the Kimberley and Northern Territory area. It’s still going strong”.
Source: Jakari Togo (Geoffrey Togo), Senior Cultural Ranger (deceased) 2013
Murujuga Cultural Heritage Management Plan
(Murujuga Aboriginal Corporation 2016)
Cut into Murujuga’s rocks are Dreamtime stories thousands of years old. Yet this rock art remains greatly relevant to Aboriginal people, says Marduthenera people custodian Raelene Cooper. To outsiders, Murujuga’s rocks may appear to be inanimate objects. But to her people they “hold DNA, a living, breathing, spiritual energy.”
“The rock art tells the stories of evolution and are a biblical archive of our sacred ancient history,” Cooper says. “They carry and hold a deep connection to Mother Earth.”
Murujuga explains the past, present, and future to new generations, says Belinda Churnside, a Ngarluma custodian on the board of the Murujuga Aboriginal Corporation (MAC), which aims to represent the interests of the site’s traditional owners. “This rock art is from the beginning of time to the end of time,” Churnside says.
While Murujuga has a phenomenal concentration of artistic production – it is accompanied by significant evidence of other focussed human activity: stone tool making, quarrying and reduction, seed grinding, shell mounding, construction of stone pits and standing stones and general occupational activities such as stone artefact production and wooden artefact manufacture and maintenance.
Murujuga also contains a range of aboriginal megalithic art, involving standing stones like the European megaliths (menhirs), as well as circular stone arrangements. The many stone features of Murujuga include standing stones, fish traps, stone arrangements, hunting hides and domestic structures. This is a monumental hunter-gatherer-fisherperson landscape, which rivals the period in Europe when people were constructing stone monuments such as Stonehenge (except in Europe this occurred thousands of years later).
Some standing stones are thalu sites, places where ceremonies are carried out to increase and manage the social and economic benefits of natural resources (Daniel 1990). On Murujuga, stone feature sites range from single monoliths through to extensive alignments comprising at least three or four hundred standing stones (Vinnicombe 2002).
Thalu sites are permanent reminders of the Traditional Lore.
The Burrup peninsula and Dampier archipelago constitute one of the world's most extensive open-air art galleries, as well as an area with enormous ecological, cultural and archeological significance. As a result of considerable pressure from large commercial interests in the gas and mining industries, concerns about the conservation and preservation of the area has led to a campaign for its protection.