Hemmingway said Switzerland is more up and down than sideways and I understand what he meant. We hiked and rode cable cars and gondolas up and down for most of our day in Lauterbrunnen, passing quietly grazing cows on lush hillsides, making it to the top of Schilthorn peak, experiencing Trümmelbach waterfalls and having an alpine adventure.
The Valley and Town
The view from up next to Staubbach Waterfall - a short hike from the village.
Lauterbrunnen's population is just over 2,000. Staubbach Waterfall is a lovely backdrop when looking up the valley.
Can you see the house?
The few homeowners in the valley take advantage of the short periods of sunlight with summer gardens.
Wine and cheese in the most refined vending machine.
We were dropped off at the gondola in the end of the valley and walked back through the valley to town, looking up at the surrounding mountains the whole way.
Weisse Lütschine river flows through the valley with its glacial waters.
The Hike
We had a full day to ourselves in Lauterbrunnen Valley so we got up early and purchased a rail pass to get us up to Schilthorn Peak and back. We rode a cable car that dropped us at our trailhead and then hiked through to Mürren where we caught the gondola up to Schilthorn Peak. We treated ourselves to lunch in the rotating restaurant at the top, famous for being in a James Bond movie, and then rode another gondola down all the way to the end of the valley. The walk back to our hotel was about 4 miles through the flat, green valley, crossing the river at a few points. We stopped along the way to visit the Trümmelbach waterfalls. When we were back, good and tired, we popped into the only grocery store in town to pick up items for dinner, ate on our balcony, looking out at Staubbach Falls, and then headed to the hostel laundromat to do a load of laundry with a beer in hand.
Mürren
The first thing you notice at Schilthorn Peak is the James Bond location setting for Her Majesty's Secret Service. Not familiar? Don't worry, there's a museum devoted to educate you!
There are lots of opportunities to have a Bond experience here: the food, the props, the museum - even the bathrooms have a hilariously interactive experience, like gunfire when you flush the toilet.
After that, enjoy the panoramic view from the rotating restaurant, then walk around the platforms outside where you can throw snowballs in the middle of summer and greet the many hang gliders who glide by.
Andrew thought he saw the face of Jesus with a halo from the restaurant lights, but I think it was really a mountain god called Challigroosi!
The gondolas had regular arrival and departure times posted in the lobby, and we packed into them like sardines! We took two gondolas to get from the peak down to the end of the valley.
Trümmelbach Falls
There are 10 waterfalls visible tucked into this mountainside. They have carved the rock smooth and form bowls where they continually flow. The temperature is much cooler inside than in the valley and the noise is deafening in some places! As an attraction, there is a small cafe, restrooms, and a gift shop. Be aware: no children under 5 may go in to the falls area for safety.
Hotel Oberland
Address: Auf der Fuhren 452B, 3822 Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Phone: +41 33 855 12 41
Meals were good and, of course, the proximity to everything is great. Rooms are comfortable and has that Swiss feel.
The view from our hotel window at night and in the day showed off the Staubbach Falls, as seen below.