As seen from the "Properties" window, the camera was on "Shutter Priority Mode (SPM)" when I took this photo. SPM means the scroll wheel on my camera is dedicated to adjusting the Shutter Speed. Other values, such as aperture, must be set in the settings menu. The SPM does not allow the user to manually set the ISO; instead, the camera itself sets the values accordingly. The same goes for the white balance. I will talk about that later for the photos dedicated to the value.

I used a 1/5 shutter speed because it served to be the best balance for the photo's exposure. It is the appropriate shutter speed that is slow enough that the blades of the fan seem almost unnoticeable. I also used an f/5 aperture because I wanted the object to be solely in focus. Although I was switching between that and f/3.5, it just so happened that this photo turned out to be the best among all of them. 

I was aiming for a Radial composition with this photo. I think I could have done a better job of having the entire background to just be the fan, but focusing the camera was too challenging for my space. You can see the door of my small room barely glazed in the frame.

The same stuff can be seen here. I just used a faster shutter speed to capture the individual fans in motion.

This one had the "Aperture Priority Mode" on. This just means the scroll wheel was then dedicated to adjusting the aperture. The narrow aperture allowed the camera to focus on the head shot of the object, giving the background a blurry look. I took many photos of composition, and the one with a 1/30 shutter speed looked the best.

The composition technique I was aiming for this photo was the golden spiral, but it looks like a I missed the proper framing since I was just eye-balling it.

The same goes for here, just with a wider aperture to have the other object in focus, namely the Datu Puti Suka and the Stickers on my laptop that I placed to block the window. I was aiming for the same golden spiral composition, but this one I was imagining it vertically flipped.

Now this is the segment where I expect to get a lot of deduction points. The properties say that the camera was in "Manual Mode" during the time the photo was taken, but it is much more complicated than that. The camera will only allow you to set the ISO and white balance during "Manual Mode", but it will automatically give a value to the aperture. So, in exchange for adjusting the ISO and white balance, I lose freedom from adjusting other values.

The white balance, on the other hand, was more like filters than adjustments. This photo was set to "Incandescent" white balance. I chose a low ISO since a fluorescent light bulb was directly above me. I was too focused on being frustrated about the white balance that I did not notice the lack of an applied composition technique. I used a 1-second shutter speed because it gave the best exposure.

This one had the "Daylight" white balance, and the other values were pretty much the same. The rule of thirds composition here was just a coincidence. I do not remember specifically aiming for that.

I tried using the lowest ISO my camera can do, and it gave me this photo. I think a 1/5 shutter speed is the sweet spot for composition like this. I used the simple rule of thirds, and I did not bother with filter-like white balance.

Same stuff here as well. I tried using the highest ISO my camera can do.

This one is kind of different. I thought the composition of the Dutch angle is more important than the values, so I just eye-balled the exposure with the ISO and shutter speed.

I do not exactly know what difference "Landscape Mode" does, but I just used the same principles that I have read from the course manual. ISO 800 seemed appropriate for the amount of sunlight the room was receiving from the window at the side, shaded by the curtains. Rule of thirds was applied, I just aligned the object with the grid on my camera.