Kugel is an Ashkenazi Jewish dish that is rooted from peasant food of the shtetl. People living in poverty often relied on kugel as a primary source of nutrition. This dish has two primary variations, being noodle (lokshen in Yiddish) and potato, and can be prepared to be sweet or savoury.
The savoury version often contains a small portion of meat or fish but is mostly composed of grains and vegetables in order to reduce production costs. It originates primarily from two areas of Europe: Alsace-Lorraine in eastern France, and the Rhineland in southern Germany. A Jewish American writer, Joan Nathan, mentions that recipes of kugel were "spread to eastern Europe by the expulsion of Jews from western European countries." Kugel evolved into many different forms as it spread throughout Europe. The savoury variation is more commonly found in Lithuania and Russia, but can still be found throughout a variety of Jewish communities. Noodle kugels consist of egg noodles baked in a custard, and are a traditional Jewish food that originates from the 16th century. Due to its ability to be prepared in advance it can be a great meal for large reunions, as it can easily be baked in order to serve it. It was originally created as a meal to be eaten on Shabbat, a day on which Jews are not allowed to cook, and its ability to be prepared prior and heated made it a great meal candidate. It was placed into a communal oven and heated overnight, leaving a warm meal the next day. While kugels are often baked, they can also be steamed by placing them inside a cholent pot or sealing the pan with a strip of dough. The dish can contain ingredients such as butter, eggs, sour cream, garlic, onions, and cottage cheese, and spices such as salt, pepper, thyme, and sage.
A sweeter kugel was first introduced by Jews in France when they added dried fruit such as plums and pears to the standard noodle mixtures. In the early 1800s, Polish Jews started to refine sugar from beets, making it readily accessible and cheap. As a result, Jews in Poland and Hungary started to add sugar to their kugel recipes. This eventually led to the addition of ingredients such as cinnamon, nutmeg, raisins, and other dried fruit. Hungarians also introduced the addition of poppy seeds, jam, and apples. They had easier access to dairy products, resulting in the addition of sour cream to their kugel. It holds such religious significance that it has been commented on by religious leaders, such as Rabbi Arele Roth of Jerusalem saying that “Kugel is the one special food that all Jews eat, one food in the service of God.”
One recipe that is both sweet and savoury originates from Jerusalem. Jews living in the city started to add savoury ingredients such as pepper, vegetable oil, and eggs to kugels that contained sweet ingredients such as ground cinnamon and caramelised sugar.
At its roots, kugel was a key Jewish dish for the impoverished. As it was spread across Europe, its ingredients fluctuated heavily based on local ingredients. In modern times, its variations have become less limited by locally available ingredients. Core ingredients in modern kugels range anywhere from dill pickles and tofu to cornflakes and pineapples. Over the centuries, it has evolved to become a dish with infinite possibilities.