Year 8 table project

Please zoom in if you are viewing on computer because the text and photos may be too small.

Ideas, inspirations, and reasearch

This is the stjarnparkett pattern. I chose this pattern beause I like the design it's very different to other patterns unlike the checkered pattern. To me the stjarnparkett looks really luxurious, I think this shape is quite unique and confusing. On the sides is a different pattern to the top and the bottom part(s) which makes it look unlike others. I really want to combine this pattern with the chevron it might look good.

The design on the sides is called Bordeaux. I think the pattern looks like something a sailor would have on their boat as a deoration. It looks pretty complicated and complex to make but actually it'll be really easy to make if you understand how and where to put things, also if you can cut the wood correctly and sand it so that it's a straight line without any bumps it shouldn't be too troublesome.

Diamant. The name is similar to diamond which is probably why the design has a ranged size of tilted squares altogether. I think it looks like a void if the colors of the wood gets darker as the diamond gets smaller. I chose this one for its simplicity since the first two are already problematic enough I thought this one both looks good and is very straightforward to make. This pattern will definitely fit perfectly as a coffee table.

This last one is my favorite. Its name is Chevron. I assume that this pattern is quite common and also not too hard to make. I really adore the photo on the left. Why? because of not just the pattern but the colors too, this is something I really want to include in my design. The colors makes it captivating and helps it stand out more. What I also want to include is the range of size, some can be short and some can be long.

Design Brief

Design and manufacture a side table that is finished to a high quality. The finish quality of the table should be such that it is suitable to be auctioned at an end of term show.

The side table must be designed for a specific place (building or room) and match the context that it is to be used in. You must define the design context yourself and then research the identified design context.

You should use your research to create a suitable inspiration board to help you generate your ideas. You must present a range of ideas and identify one to manufacture. You must plan appropriately to manufacture your idea and aim to achieve the highest quality outcome in your product.

Design Restrictions

Restrictions are set to help solve the design problem in a way that is suitable for the context and to ensure a project can be completed to the desired standard with set perameters. the following design restrictions apply for this project:

The table can be no bigger that 350mm x 350mm or equivelent diameter
The table must combine mostly wood in a geometric pattern of wood and utilise a filler.
The filler must be no more than 5% of the total volume of the table.
You must design your table to show off the beautiful aesthetic quality of the wood you have chosen
Each piece of the table must be no smaller than 20mm in width unless it is an endpiece near the edge of the table that completes the pattern
You must design your table to combine simple geometric shapes with straight edgesthat can be combined to make more complex shapes. No organic shapes.

Context

This tabletop design is going to be for myself and I'm also going to share this coffee table with my sister.

The design is like a little extension of a table. The design helps us reach for things easier, instead of having to go grab a up of water in the kitchen we can just take the cup of water from the little coffee table beside our bed/sofa.

What I think the goals of the design project is to make it work really well so that people will buy it and to have a unique design unike others but it'll still have to match the buyer's aesthetic in order to get them to buy it.

This design is going to be used usually in bedrooms or living rooms, the idea of this table is to use it in the house. This design is not really for events and festivals. The design is just to put stuff beside the couch, the bed, beside the door, etc to make it easier to take things because it's closer.

Our design is definitely going to include wood which is going to harm the environment so when we make our design we should use and cut out the wood carefully. We actually don't need to buy wood we can use left over pieces from your old wood work (I if have).

6.

I think this design will take quite a long time to make beause we have to go through the proess of designing and making. This design will also need money to buy hardwood and and paint but really it's optional.

There are lots of rules we have to follow in order to make our design outcome safe for the person who is purchasing the product. Some important ones are making the edge of the table not sharp so if anyone hits themself on the corner of the table they won't get hurt. Our design shouldn't have splinters.

My 8 Targets

My first target is to make upgrade my digital port folio and my skills to add pictures and informations to my sites. I really want to make my sites score 10/10 by the end of every term or even better by the end of every half term.

My second target is to take more screenshots. I just realised that in year 7 I don't really have any screenshots to show the tools in procreate and the apps I used to help my with Ideas and so on.

My third bullet point is: use procreate. It may not sound like a target but I chose it because I am really bad at proreate and I really need help on the brush tools and I don't know how to shade correctly in the app.

My forth target is going to focus on the tabletop design and so is some of the other bullet points. I want to make my design out come neat and tidy. I want it to look clean and dont want any wood dust going in between some of the wood gaps.

My fifth target is to use more hand strength tools. Why? Because in year 7 all I've been doing is using the mahines to cut out the big shapes but not since I've got little shapes I really look forward to using the hand tools.

My sixth target is to finish making the design by the end on year 8 successfully because last year I've failed to complete making my Micro:bit holder and so the color was not how I expected.

My seventh target is to work faster, to support what I wrote at the top. I could not finish my work on by the end of the year because I haven't work fast enough to complete on time.

My last target for this year is to talk less work more because it slows down my working process. I really do want to get more done this year.

Some photos that I used

Inspiration board

I found about 10 photos from safari about geometric wood patterns and these ones I like in the picture. I added all the images I saved onto proreate, and then I deccided how I was going to lay it out by drawing the white lines and then fiting the pictures in the white line as you can see.

After I've added all my photos in the first two diaganal line I switched my background from a transparent backdrop to a white one so that you can't see the white line (white line = layout cheat). I chose the square shape as a canvas because it's the perfect size since the other ones are too big.

These are the layers I used. There are little layers than before because I've merged them together. On the photo at the top, I wasn't merging them but I was renaming the it to make it easier to remember and know what layer to drag.

In this screenshot it's showing how I created my title. I wanted my title to be in capital letters and I squished the letters together so that it wouldn't fall of the frame. The title had no color yet it was just black because I am going to add a photo inside the title. Right now the title says 'GEOMETRIC INSPIRATION' I might change it later but it's not sure.

I have added a geometric pattern photo into the title using the clipping mask tool which allows you to link two layers together so that the photo can fit within the parameters of that shape/text. After doing that I lowered the photo's opacity to make it darker so that it doesn't lookes like its been merged with the white bakground.

The sides looked too plain so I added color ideas because that is what I want to include in my design. The colors I added into the inspiration board were gold, rose gold, gray, white, dark blue, cream, and dark brown. After that I added little texts ontop of some pictures expaining and giving my opinion on that specific photo.

Here is my finished inspiration board + The app I used to make it.

Pattern poster

I started off by choosing my favorite pattern style which were geometric patterns. Afterwards I got on google to find about 10 - 12 photos of geometric patterns. I actually found three images but the one on the left had 9 pictures altogether, which definitely saves up my storage.

In procreate I couldn't really think of any layout for my poster so I played around in the app's settings, then I opened the drawing guide and I adjusted the set-up. So on the left hand side is a screenshot of my layout, and all I've got to do is trace the lines.

I traced the lines in a ebony shade using the hard brush. I traced the whole page because I know that I can always delete some parts if I don't want it later. The line is just there to help guide me when I'm cropping my photo into the shape and then I'd remove the lines after.

I added my first photo and repeated the steps for masking the image which was: Add your image, make it a little transparent, select a box you want to put your picture in, press the invert button, drag three fingers down, press the cut button, and then return it it's original opacity.

As you can see I've added all these photos and reworked the steps for masking them already. I have also merged all my photo layers together so that there wouldn't be lots of layers to confuse me. The first layer is my layout lines, I hid that layer because I like it better without the lines.

The titles I've been seeing is either long and squeezed close together or very big and very bold. So I wanted to make my title a little more interesting than others. My title wasn't too big or too small and it's not so close to each other. I chose a outlined font and you can see through the middle of the letters.

I opened another layer behind the text and colored in the letters. What I wanted to do was clip a geometric photo into the colored part. So the chromaticy doesn't matters, except if you're going to lower the opacity of the image, which is what I'm going to do. That's why I chose black as the background color for the text.

This was my third photo that I found on google it has very bright colors which makes it contrasting to the font's hue. I inserted the photo into procreate and set it to clipping mask. After doing that I adjusted the opacity beause the color was too vibrant, this is when the black text filling comes in handy.

I wrote little comments and thoughts about the patterns on the right side of the poster. I changed the text's color to be a grayish blue shade because there were lots of black on my poster already. I selected a font that I think is neat and easy to read since it's going to be very small.

My poster looked very plain so I added star decorations around the text boxes. I received these unique brushes from Mr Douglas. I drew a line across the top of my title and at the top of the page with this brush to create a boarder like idea. Then I placed bigger stars among the texts by resizing the brush.

The finished pattern poster

On paper designs

Mr Douglas gave us squared paper to guide us when drawing boxes for my designs. The boxes were 12 by 12 squares. There are 6 boxes because we could only fit that much on one piece of paper. IF you look closely you can see that there are gaps to seperate the boxes. The reason they're there is so that they don't completely stick together, if the squares connect - we won't be able to identify which design is which. This makes my work complicated and perplexing for the person looking, they won't be able to make out what is what.

These are my first three designs. As you can see I've made a mistake on my first design which is drawing my geometric pattern without using ghost lines. Normal pencil lines are trickier to rub and the lines are more visible even thought it's been rubbed out unlike ghost lines.

My first design that I made a mistake on was the chevron design, it didn't turn out as well as I expected it to be. The second design was just little diamonds going down in a vertical line, and the last one is like a traditional pattern. Little diamonds going in a horizontal line.

I added 3 more designs which were the distorted cross (bottom left), add symbol with squares at the edge (bottom middle), and the stjarnparkett pattern(bottom right). The middle one on the bottom row is very simple and it's very basic so I really shouldn't have added that but was is don can't be undo. The bottom left design is my favorite although it is a confusing design. The reason I like the distorted cross design is because It looks very cool like the big X is glitching. It's not really considered as a geometric pattern but Mr Douglas said it was alright :D.

After I drew all my pattern designs finished I fine lined it over with a 0.5 black fine line pen. The reason we need to use fine line pens are so that we are able to see our work more clearly and makes the paper look nice and neat.

A metal ruler is also one of the tools I used a lot during the making of these designs. A ruler is very significant because we are only allowed to use straight lines, not wavy/curvy lines so that this makes our cutting process faster + easier.

After adding the colors I think my work looked much better, it's not boring and plain anymore. We were only allowed to use restricted colors (more information about colors below). Some of my designs, the colors are bright and pale (e.g: Cross) some are dark and dull (e.g: Stjarnparkett) but some are a combination of both (e.g: Chevron). If the shades of brown is not really the colors that you like and you want to use vibrant colors such as blue, white, and orange, we're actually allowed to stain our wood to get another olor like red, green, yellow, etc, but If we do that when we sand our wood the color will come off or fade a little.

colors used

We used more 'professional' color pencils to render our designs on paper. These colors work very well, but there are restrictions to what colors we are allowed to use.

The colors we're allowed to used were shades of brown and cream. The reason we only use those colors are because our table is going to be made out of wood.

Mistakes made

I've forgot to point out to this earlier: on the laft hand side of the design there are some white marks on the drawing. These white marks are visible beause I didn't use ghost lines, so when I erased it, the pencil lines still stayed. This made my design look not really good.

I accidentally pressed too hard while making the base color - this causes a line to go through my work, there's also another line below the diamond on the left. If it was a larger line it would've ruined my work. My other thoughts about this design is that my rendering is not as good as the other ones.

There were lots of bits that I've color out of the line but they are not really visible when I took my photo. We should try to prevent coloring out of the lines because it really adds in the messy look to my work. In order to make our designs look professional we should do the opposite.

Comparison

comparing my yr7 and yr8 rendering skills

Year 7 rendering

Year 8 rendering

There is a lot of improvement in my rendering skills over the past few months. As you can see in year 7 I had stuggled on how to render correctly. In year 8 I've received some tips and advice on how to render properly and the outcome of the effort I've put in is not so bad. In year 7 I've been rendering in the wrong way, I started coloring dark parts around the edges and then slowly fade out the color making it lighter. Then In year 8 Mr Douglas had shown us how to render correctly and accordingly. First we softly color in the base of the shape from different angles to make a tiny cross hatching pattern inside the shape/design and then press harder around the edge and then fade out the color leaving a very light spot in the middle.

comparing Rin's and my work (colored)

Rin's

Mines

Design: Rin's designs is quite similar most of hers (and my) designs have a lot of small parts and lots of pieces. Her designs are really pretty and probably not too confusing. On the other hand my designs are easier to manufacture but it may conclude very small parts.

Color: My designs are all shades of brown so is Rin's design except for one, the one at the bottom right corner has the colors orange and pale pink, they make the paper design instantly looks good although when we stain it it'll still come off (which is probably bad). In her development design I hope she redo her choices of the colors.

paper design poster

Photos are a great way to show and illustrate things. The image of a wooden geometric pattern is showing where I got my design idea from. I also put emojis to represent some of my other designs. To make things more interesting I added a landscape picture of a wooden table top pattern and made it my bakground. I figured it'd be easier to read if the opacity is lower.

The colors of the arrows and the text will be the same color so that you don't get confused which image is the text referring to. Example: the pink texts and arrows are referring to the picture of my chevron design on paper, the brown arrows and text are implying to the picture on the right, and the blue arrows and text are attributing to the photo at the bottom of my poster.

The title looks a bit sketchy and it's not really interesting, but I really wanted that text font and that was the only one that matched what I wanted. The brown shade of the title matches the wood's color. The smaller texts are really plain and simple but it's easy to read. They are in different colors for a reason (read the comment before - to know reason why).

Remaking my poster + poster inspo

Im going to change my poster's title to fous on something else. Why? So that I can add more details about other things.

paiwan's poster

remade poster

This is the part that I like the most in my poster. It's not because of the design but becuase this was all the way from when I made my inspiration poster, this shows that I've put in effort into remembering my work (?, I do not know how to phrase this properply)

I don't really like the arrows. I think they look a bit sketchy and it's not really clear where the end of the arrow is pointing to. It also takes up a lot of space. The only good think about the arrows are that they are in a vibrant color which makes it easy to see.

Paiwan's poster showed her paper work, tools she's used, her refference and inspirations, arrows, boarders, and little texts. I wanted my remade poster to look something like hers but I don't want to copy off her because then I wouldn't have learnt anything, it'd just be copying. My poster pretty much included what her work had but it was in another layout/form but Paiwan's poster had way more photos and explanation I couldn't fit in (worried that the viewer won't be able to see the text if it's too small).

Similarities

Arrows

Inspiration photo

Texts (explanation)

Used tools

Paper work

Little comments

Title or heading

F Block websites examples.

Melon's website

Melon's website has a lot of texts and photos and it's really organized which is why her website is a good example. The first thing we see if we were scrolling down her sites until this part is her title. Its really big and the font is really neat. If we look below the title there are pictures showing what tools she has used in procreate while making her inspiration board. She shows clearly about what each settings/things does. Melon shows her unfinished inspiration board with a text box explaining what she did on her inspiration board. I really like the way she sets out the texts and photos together, some pictures may be long and wide and some maybe just the normal size ( text too ). Another thing I also really like is that she also shows what apps she has used and how to use it. What I think she could've added are GIFs. GIFs are short animations, they aren't videos.

Paiwan's website

I really like Paiwan's websites. Her sites is very neat and organized, but I am only going to focus on the poster part. Paiwan's title is not really big but it's not as small as the normal text size so that we don't get confused (if it's a title or a description referring to something). As you can see she's attached a large photo of her finished poster just below her title and below are smaller boxes with zoomed in photos for extra details for the viewers to see. At the bottom of the page she's put a small desrcription of her work. In the description she tells the viewers about a problem about her design and then writes out a solution underneath. I've used Paiwan's work as an inspiration to upgrade my old poster. Her poster shows a vairity of images, little arrows to ahow what the word is reffering to, and texts that are not too much and they're easy to read.

Digital work: (developed) Designs

Flat color

Design 1

Design 2

We start of by loading the square paper

Drawing guides,

Drawing guides can be turned on from the menu in the top left hand corner. For design one I used the Isometric grid because I'll be using lots of diagonal lines. Meanwhile in design 2, I won't be using lots of diagonal lines but straight lines, so I used the 2D grid. We can adjust the size of the grid using the settings at the bottom of the screen.

I used the Dirty Spencil pen because from far away I think it kind of looks like the fine line pen. I used black fine line on paper but on procreate I want to use brown because black makes the sides stand out more than the inner colors.

I also used brown for line lining my second digital design. On design 2 I will not be using only straight lines but diagonal lines too. So I drew my straight lines first then changed my drawing guides from a 2D grid to a Isometric grid.

After drawing the lines to create the design, I needed to add color to my work, and here is how I make my design more colorful. So we'll need to go up to the top left hand corner and look for the icon with a squiggly line. When you press on the button there'll be little settings on the bottom of the screen. Your settings should look like the photo above. The next step is to select the area you want to color, when you do so, the selected part should be blue. (scroll down to continue)

The previous step should be selecting the shape you want to color in. The you'd want to do is to open up a new layer, drag and drop your desired shade of brown from the color wheel, then go back and repeat this same process until your digital design is more colorful.

The results of your work should look something like this. For the final touch just go back to the Drawing guides and turn it off so that there'll be no more guide lines. After that you could save your design by selecting the share button and then JPEG then save to device or not.

Final

D
E
S
I
G
N
1

D
E
S
I
G
N
2

Wood texture

In procreate you can duplicate your drawings in the gallery by tapping on select at the top right corner of your screen, selecting the paintings you want to copy, and and then duplicate (also at the top of your screen).

Design 1

Design 2

The first step is to add a new layer (by going to the icon on the top right corner, in the photo it's in blue but in the app it's actually black), put your first photo in, stretch it so that it's covering the whole canvas, and then lower the opacity.

The next thing you'd want to do is select the squiggly line on the top of your screen and then make sure the settings below is the same as the settings in the photo above. After doing that you'll need to use the invert button right beside the remove button.

When you've finished all those steps you'll need to select the eraser tool (the eraser icon) and then remove the et cetra parts. Another way you could do it is using the cursor symbol and then just swipe to the left or just anywhere until the unwanted parts are out of the canvas.

Final

D
E
S
I
G
N
1

D
E
S
I
G
N
2

Poster

Background

The background was very easy to make. I used a pen called 'Dynamic Marker' it's very smooth. The only adjustments I made to the pen were the size of the brush and lowering the opacity so that it looks like it's overlapping each other. Since the opacity is very low, if I make a wobbly line and then long hold it so that it snaps into a straight line, then color inside the shape - it'll overlap eah other. My conclusion was to quickly (super quick)drew a line across the screen and without taking my finger of my device I colored in the shape. I used different colors but they are pretty much similar. This color scheme gives out the same feeling as my first table design because of the colors - shades of brown.

Table designs

After finishing the background, I went on to importing my design photos onto the poster and then stretching the picture to fit the coffee table using the distorting tool in the cursor icon. I fine lined and colored the table legs then added the highlights on the table. I also put shadows beneath the table to create a more realistic effect. Behind my second table (one on the right) is my design. The steps to do it are very simple. You can add an image by tapping on the spanner icon, a small menu will appear below, select 'Insert a photo' and choose your desired photo. Lower the opacity, resize the photo using the cursor icon, and then tilt the photo onto it's side to make a diamond like shape.

Additional information

Adding extra information helps the veiwer to understand more about what the poster is showing. So beside the tables are multiple wooden color references that I've used in that particular design. Right beside the first table are two other designs. They are my paper designs, I just imported a photo of my work then traced over it on another layer, and then make it black and white. Added small arrows to show what I've done with these two designs and how they are significant. In this photo I showed that I've merged them together to form a new design (at the bottom). I rearranged them to stay near the sides/corners of the canvas so that there are enough spacce to fit in my little comments and the title.

Title, text and decoration

In the title I made the first letters in the words designing tabletops pink and the other letters blue because the first two letters says DT which is design and tehnology (class) but I think I made my title a bit too big. Meanwhile I made the little comments brown but if you'd look carefully on my first table design you would see a heading that wrote 'Lighter Tone' in a paler shade of brown and on my second design the heading was 'Darker Tone' in a darker shade of brown. For the decorations, I just wanted to make my design look a bit more fun, eye capturing to look at and also to fill up the blank spaces. All I did for the poster's accessories was outline the title and doodled little things around the table.

Final

D
E
S
I
G
N
I
N
G
⚪

⚪
T
A
B
L
E
T
O
P
S

Coffee table animation

In order to make a short animation you'll need to open the Animation Assist settings (spanner icon, Canvas, animation assist). After opening that you'll see a long bar with a frame of your recent art work in it.

The next step is to open a new layer (don't worry about the first layer's opacity) and start drawing a line with small dots on it, this will represent the position of where water droplet falling (dot) and from where (line).

You should be adding new layers every time you add another movement to the droplet. The top photo is an example. I kind of followed Kunchevsky's tutorial until this part and then I started adding unique stuff like moving the coffee table in (since we were supposed to fous on the table).

I needed to get more creative so I made it look like I zoomed in on the coffee droplet and then zoomed back out, and then the coffee table comes up from the bottom of my canvas. While zooming in on the coffee droplet I slowly moved my coffee kettle out of the canvas (corner).

Animation tutorial by Alex Kunchevsky

https://youtube.com/shorts/mYtA0E81M28?si=WnAH7MYFhtWAUl1a

Final

Onshape

Onshape is a 3D CAD software (CAD stands for Computer Aided Design). Onshape is really easy to use and there are lots of tools to make it easier to shape your design. The bad thing about Onshape is that it does not allow copy and paste.

(important?/most used) TOOLS

Trim

Trim is used for cutting out or removing unwanted parts (lines).

Extrude

The Extrude tool is used for turning your 2D design into a 3D design.

Dimensions

Dimensions is another tool used for measuring space between lines or angles.

Chamfer

In this ocassion the Chamfer tool is used for making the sides of the table flat.

Line

This is the most used tool as it is for drawing and making your design (2D).

Corner rectangle

A tool to make a rectangle with a point diagonal to the other.

The layers in Onshape are just like procreate's except that it's put into groups (Extrude, Sketch, Parts, Etc.)

Extrude layer

Layers that you made 3D (should not be touching! you will understand later throughout the steps)

Sketches

Basically layers/ drawing layers (we should only be selecting the top plane!)

Parts

Parts are layers of the individual 3D pieces from the Extrude layer.

Chamfer layer

Chamfer layer (Simple :>)

These are the most used tools but there are more tools you can use to help you make the design (it's just not included in my website).

You can follow the steps to making your design in Onshape using this link:

https://sites.google.com/rugbyschool.ac.th/design-and-technology/year-8/y8-side-table/onshape-modelling

or follow my steps (But it may not be easy to understand if you've never used or your new to Onshape)

Steps to making my design in Onshape

Creating a document

On the top left hand corner of your screen (once logged into Onshape) you'll see a blue rectangle with the word create in the middle. Click on it and a small menu will pop up below. Select document.

This thing will come up in the middle of your screen. Put your Name, Your form (class), and the title of this project in this case it's the table project. After that, below (at the bottom) there'll be another blue rectangle with the words create public document. Click on it.

It should bring you to this page where you can start making you 2d table top design. First thing you'd want to do is open up a new sketch (look at the top, on what a sketch is) then select the top plane (plane is like a surface that you'll work on). Then import an image of your design, following the next steps.

Importing an Image

(Don't forget to airdrop your procreate drawing to the computer!, if your using a computer)

On the tools bar (at the top of the screen) is the insert button (looks like the icon in the corner). Click on the arrow beside the little icon. After it'll let you choose either to insert a DXF or DWG file or an image. Select insert image.

This will pop up and at the bottom are the words Import. Click on Import then select your procreate photo.

Drag your mouse over the top plane. It doesn't matters how big because after this you'd need to use the dimensions tool to measure how big it should be (350mm, square).

Making/drawing out the shape

When drawing out the shape we will only be using these tools: - Trim - Line - Dimensions - Corner Rectangle (Icons and more information ⬆️⬆️⬆️) The first thing to do when you start drawing the design is to select the corner rectangle tool and drag it over the photo in a new sketch. Then you can start making your design (using the lines tool)

Attempt #1

As you can see, my first attempt went really wrong and did not turn out as expected. When you reach this drawing stage you should be switching between the line and dimensions tools (because we'll need all the shapes to be equal, e.g. the 4 big right angle triangles should all be the same) There were lots of errors (the red boxes) and the lines were connected together. When drawing out the lines, you should make it go over the box a little more than needed then when you finish with your design you can use the trimming tool so trim out little lines sticking out.

Attempt #2

My second attempt had smaller amount of errors but was still not perfect. The black lines - with numbers - are the right measurements meanwhile the grey lines (not so visible, on the side) are wrong measurements (not equal). We cannot have shapes that are supposed to be the same (same measurements) having different measurements. E.G. on the side there are shapes that are supposed to be the same length but one is 190.919 while the other one is 211.001 - we shouldn't have these (measurement= unalike, shape= alike), this is one reason to check carefully as this can resulting two shapes which are supposed to be the same size - different and this will make the manufacturing part more challenging.

Attempt #3

I got Mr Burkhill to help me on my second attempt but I messed up somewhere so then I asked Mr Douglas for help to get to this final design with accurate measurements and no mistakes (red lines/ grey lines). This is the one with perfectly same measurements for the same shapes.

Next time I should try to find what went wrong and if I'm really struggling then I could go ask the teacher.

Extruding

❌ DO NOT ❌

Extruding all

Extruding all the pieces at the same time is something you shouldn't do unless you want it to be grouped together into one piece. (selecting all the pieces will group it together but if you select pieces that are not touching each other in the end it'll be individual pieces (like the photos below).

✅ DO ✅

Extrude 1

Extrude 2

Extrude 3

You could select more than one but just make sure it's not touching each other so that it doesn't connects into one piece (if you want it to be separate pieces).

Appearance (color, chamfer, hide)

Color

Right click the part you want to change the color (bottom left corner of your screen), you can hold shift on your keyboard and choose parts that you want to have to same color, then click edit appearance.

After that this will pop up and you can choose which color you want that/those part/parts to be. If you can't find your desired color here you can also go the the color picker then copy and paste the hex code at the highlighted section. ⬇️⬇️

Color Picker ⬇️

https://htmlcolorcodes.com/color-picker/

Chamfer and Hide

Chamfering:

First select the edges of your table(once you did the edges will turn orange) then select the chamfer tool. (if you don't know where then ➡️➡️)After, you should check if all the edges of the tabletop has been selected. If it looks like the photo (⬅️) then you can click the green tick.

When finished the chamfering (extruding, and editing the appearance too if you want) section you can go to your sketches (left side of your screen) and hide them (all the sketch layers) to make your work look nicer and neater.

Icon⬆️

This is where to find the chamfer tool! (top of your screen, on the tools bar)

Adding table legs

TABLE ASSEMBLY <-- link to table legs (template)

Making a copy

When you click into that link⬆️ you will be brought into this page which is the table template but before you put in your tabletop design, you need to make a copy so that you can edit this page. To make a copy you'll need to find the dark blue button with the words 'make a copy to edit' (like in the photo beside ➡️), it shouldn't be too hard to spot as it pretty much stands out.

After you've copied the worksite and have named it (Name, Form, Table project) you'll need to go to insert (different tool bar) which is in the same place as the 'sketch' button. A small menu will pop up - go to 'other documents' and then 'Owned by me' (highlighted ➡️).

------>>

To put your 3D tabletop design on the table template you just need to click on the 'Part Studio 1'. If you do not have this and it tells you to create a version of your table -then do so.

---------------->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

👍 (If it's not on the table then select all the layers, except for the table template, and then use the arrows to move the table)

Exporting

To export the table from onshape into a file (to put in shapr3d), on the bottom of your screen you will see the words 'Assembly (number)' - right click and then select export....⬇️

The export menu will come up in the middle of your computer screen. After this change your file name to --> name's, table, then change the format to 'STEP' format then check if everything else is matching to the photo (except for File's name➡️) . If it is then just click the blue export button below.

After, you'll need to open finder and the downloads folder (on the computer), find the step file that you've just exported and airdrop it to yourself (don't forget to open airdrop on your Ipad).

SHAPR3D

[Working on Ipad]

Shapr3D is a app that helps you create 3D models on your iPad. It's great for professionals like architects and designers who need to make detailed designs quickly and easily. The app also has tools to help you create precise and complex models.

(To do this step - downloading Shapr3d on to your Ipad is required) Open the app and then the import menu on top of your screen (Import Icon ⬆️⬆️). Then click Files. Your files menu will come up and select 'Recents' (showed in dark blue⬇️) the side. Select the step file of your 3D table design that you've airdropped from your computer.

After Importing the file^^^

On the top left corner of your screen is a small cube with the words 'Modeling' beside that you need to open. Once opened a menu will slide in on the side (➡️) and then select 'Modeling' (in dark blue).

Press 'Visualize Now'

To give your table the wood texture, all you need to do is select the three dots and then 'wood' (because this table is supposed to be made out of wood). Long press on the wood you want and then drag it over the piece you want, there are lots of different types of woods to choose from but keep in mind that the wood that we have to use in real life might not be the exact same wood in the app. Do the same for the table legs but with metal (you can choose which type of metal you want though).

Finished (only table top)

Table legs

AR

Select AR then wait for it to load. Once it finishes loading move your Ipad around until your table appears.

You can resize your table by pinching two fingers together. To rotate your table - two fingers twist. To move your table put your finger on the table and drag it around the screen.

Photos I took using AR (➡️➡️ Final Design poster on Procreate)

Procreate Final Design Poster

(I wasn't really happy with my first poster design so I made a second one)

Final Design Poster (#1)

I inserted a photo and resized it so that it's covering the whole canvas. I then lowered the opacity so that when you put more photos on top it wouldn't be uncomfortable to look at (This is the background).

For my title a drew an arrow shaped sign and then on another layer I put the four photos showing different angles of my (AR) table. I also decreased the opacity of those photos and used the clipping mask tool.

For the title's text - I wrote out the title in white and duplicated it, colored it black, then used to gaussian blur tool to make it look like shadows (floating text). After I added some triangle patterns inside the arrow sign.

I added in some more photos will my AR tables (some are the tabletop design, on the right side). Lowered their opacity because it looks better like that (in my opinion so that we could see the background too).

To export the Final Design poster - go to the wrench icon at the top of your screen. A small menu will come up, select the share icon. After choose 'JPEG' (highlighted in blue). Another menu will come up in the middle and you can choose how/where you want to save your poster. (I choose mines as Save Image, to save image you'll need to scroll down a bit, the poster with be a photo in your camera roll, if the save image option is not there - please check the app's settings).

Comment: In my opinion it just kind of looks boring and not exciting at all. If I were to show this poster to a costumer who wants to buy this table I don't think it'll make them feel like they should buy it. The photos are fine but maybe I could replace some or add more and maybe decorate it a bit too.

Other people's thoughts:

The table doesn't stands out as much.
It's too transparent.
Looks plain, not color.
The design on the side are repeating (too many).

Final Poster Design #2

On the second poster I decided maybe I should take more photos and replace some of the old ones.

[The extra photos I took:]

I started off by choosing the best photos out of the newly took images and some of the screenshots of the 3D table from Shapr3d. Added all the photos into procreate (on a new canvas)and resized + rearranged the images so that they were the right size in the correct places. I merged some of the photos together (pinch the layers together with two fingers or tap on the layer you want to merge down and select merge down) to make moving photos (that needs to be together) easier.

Next I duplicated the layer with the 3D table photos and added another layer under. Tap on the new layer and select clipping mask

In the blank layer, color it black so that it's covering the whole image (under) and adjust the opacity so that its kind of transparent.

Select the layer with the colored part and the photos (under) then merge the two layers together (how to merge layers together ⬆️⬆️)

I want to make the table stand out more than the background and to do that first go to your photos and long hold object. Select copy. Paste it into procreate and adjust the cut out to fit with the photo in the poster.

(Background should be black) Lower the opacity of the original photo. Then duplicate the cut out and change the blend mode (the menu under the opacity slider) 'to Screen' --> adjust the opacity.

(adding decorations using the halftone brush and clipping mask)

(erase out the parts not needed)

I went back to onshape to take a screenshot of these ➡️➡️

Manufacturing

Laser cut out template ⬆️⬆️

We've been given 2 halves of our design printed on A3 papers (other half got cut off because our tabletop is too big to fit onto one piece of A3 paper). So we'll need to cut off the print-boarder using the guillotine (only on one of the halves is fine), then line up both halves together and tape it together using masking tape.

Alice's work example ⬅️⬅️⬆️⬆️

(We've actually been given 4 A3 papers of our table template, the other two is there if you need to cut pieces from your table template and stick it onto the wood for cutting)

!! Always check if you've lined the papers up accurately and precisely. Also check that all the lines are connected. !!

Make sure you've aligned the papers together carefully and after you've taped the two halves together you should start adding notes, for example:

Wood grain direction

Wood color (dark or light?)

number of pieces (of wood)... etc.

!! You could add arrows, small symbols or numbers too as long as you understand them and know what they mean. !!

I used the extra A3 papers of my table template to cut the part i want -> cut wood.

Once you've cut the part you want (from the paper) you'll need to measure it with a ruler

and then draw it onto the piece of wood.

You'll need a right angle ruler to help you draw an accurate line onto the wood, then mark the length and draw out the shape.

For parts that are easy to cut you should use the Mitre Hand Saw for precise and angled cuts in different materials. Meanwhile the Band Saw is for cutting materials such as wood or soft metals even steel. Band saws are most used for curve cutting as they can cut circles and curves better than table saws.

⬅️Mitre Hand Saw || Band Saw Machine ⬆️

In the photo on the left, in the red circle is a piece of wood that I've cut out but it's not a perfect fit to my laser cut out template. That's because the paper and the laser cut out template is a few millimeters different. (also because I can't cut the wood perfectly)

If we've got a piece of wood that's too big then we could use the Band facer to sand some of the wood off. Or if you've got multiple of the same shape with the same measurements and they are too big then the Band facer would be really effective.

The Band Facer Machine 👍

‼️Search:

push stick (for band saws or circular saws)

This is my table top before glueing the pieces onto the laser cut out template and sanding the top surface. As you can see some of the wood blocks are are uneven and the sides are either too big (out/over the line) or too small. There are also gaps between the pieces. After glueing the wood onto the cut out template you'll need sand your tabletop to even the upper-surface of your tabletop and then add wood filler (will explain what wood filler is ⬇️⬇️) to fill in the gaps.

Before you glue you'll need to arrange your pieces into correct places/positions and then slide them off your template board (⬆️). Then start by pouring glue onto your laser cut out template and then, using a brush, spread the glue around your layout.

(This is what not to do as it takes too long to pour the glue out without opening the lid😅)

Always start from the middle. move your pieces around to get rid of air. Repeat the same thing to other pieces. After glueing them all onto your template board you should move your pieces around and adjust it to check if it's in line, if it's in the correct position, that it's not tilted to one side, etc.

Leave your glued tabletop to dry for a few days.

There may be small bits of glue on the sides and all over your tabletop though we will sand them off as it is our next step (glue --> sand --> wood filler --> sand again...).

Orbital Sander (or just 'Sander')

Before sanding ⬇️ || After sanding ➡️

Once you've glued your table top the next step is sanding.

We need to sand our tabletop to even the surface. We start by using the 80P ⬅️ (The higher grit numbers represent a finer abrasive, which creates smoother surface finishes. Lower grit numbers represent coarser abrasives that scrape off materials much quicker). When you are done with the wood filler (and sanding the excess off) the you'll have to use the 240P ⬅️.

Here is an example of my tabletop before and after sanding

⬅️⬅️

For table tops with a larger height difference between each pieces, you should use the planer instead of the sander as it'll take too long.

To get it to work you have to press the red switch lock button and then the trigger switch. Then blade under the circular part will start spinning.

Blades

The next step is to add wood filler to fill in the gaps between the pieces. Wood filler is used for filling imperfections in both finished and unfinished wood. Here we have four different wood filler colors, Mahogany - a dark red and brown shade, Walnut - a red ish color, Teak - lightish brown, and Pine - a light color (white). (Sand wood filler after).

Friend's work

After putting wood filler

Comparison (after putting wood filler and after sanding it off)

A bug tried to eat my table....

:')

Mr D had to use oil to take the bug out of the wood and then I covered the hole with wood filler.

After you've finished adding wood filler to your tabletop you'll need to use the Band Saw machine to cut off the a little bit of the sides to make it neater although it might not look like a perfect square but you'll still need to sand and chamfer the sides anyways.