Jack B and Jack T installed this fan with 32 inch thread bolts. They placed the fans on the inside of the frame and placed the grill of the fan on the outside of the frame.

Grill bolted onto the frame, connecting to the fan through the frame. The sticker facing towards you meant that the fan is pushing air towards you.

Jake and Harrison installed this fan with 32 inch thread bolts also on the other side of the frame. After, the grill was place on the outer shell of the frame where the fan is placed.

Jack B, Jack T, and Jake installed four 1/4-20 x 1 bolts with flat washers and nylon nuts. 

Bolts did not fit through the Dc converter so new bolts had to be acquired . Due to the lack of availability we had to use Aircraft (Aviation) Grade bolts.

Jack B, Jack T, and Jake placed the auxiliary battery along the rear of the control box with the Dc converter. Two 1/4 -20 x 4 bolts with flat washers and nylon nuts are used to strap the battery down.

This is the control box rail, it monitors and controls the entire box.

Installing the controller

Motor cable fitting install

Motor Cable fitting install (Side view)

Installing control box rail. The control rail has 29 wire ports.

Main contactor is a device that switches an electrical device off and on 

Here you can see the Drive Relay fully assembled

The Drive Relay and the DC-DC Relay are connected by the 86-Pin

Here we see the DC-DC Relay fully assembled. Relay's allow for a low-power circuit to switch a relatively high current off and on.

For example the Drive Relay wire from #30 must be inserted into the X port.

All of the wires have individual connections ports which must put into the right holes

Due to a different DC-DC Converter we had to label this wire "Green"

For the Auxiliary battery, we used M5 x .75 x 15mm bolts to keep in place WITH THE WASHER COMING FIRST

Used one red and one Black AWG  wires to connect to positive and negative terminals. 

Used the red wire to plug into fuse block Y. Black wire went into #24 on control box

Installed the control relay in the forward left corner of box with #10-24 x 3/4 machine screw.

We plugged the harness into the top of the X1 controller box and also routed them around the controller an through the wire clamps. To keep the wires connected to the rail car from becoming a jumbled mess, we used Velcro straps.

 Connected the main contactor wires onto the control harness. The Harness had a few cut wire's that couldn't be plugged in.

Each termination uses an M10 X 0.75mm x 40mm Bolt. Flat and split washers are used  to lock the bolt down.

The Hyper 9 uses three 1/0 AWG with motor lugs. Motor cables are fed through the 1-1/4 fitting in the rear control box.

Installed the FRC which is comprised of two high amperage relays. We connected the FRC Harness to the SR72-400 controller.

Installed the Controller Harness uses a single 35-pin plug as an interface with the wiring system. Install control relay with #10-24 x 3/4 machine screw. 

Installed the controller cable and connected the switched side of the main contactor to the Hyper9 Motor

We also installed the main contactor. It uses 5/16 -18 flange head nuts to secure the terminals . The Curtis uses M8 x 1.25mm x 15mm bolts

We installed the high voltage conduit. One end is connected to the control box and the other is connected to the motor box in the front. The end of conduits touching the Motor must have a cover on it.

Due to the box not aligning with the center of the diamond of the car we had to drill a new hole 

We also had to file the plate to fit into the car

Here is the bottom view of the car to see the difference of the bolt location

Photo of the rewired control rail