Camellias

Verdi wrote his opera La Traviata based on the ‘Lady of the Camellias’ story by Dumas. This flower inspires poetry and opera. The blooms can be delicate pinks, robust reds and vibrant, glow in the dark whites. Singles, doubles, frilled, variegated, and so on. And to top it all, there is a variety of this plant that gives us the tea we drink!

Growing

Camellias have surface roots so don’t mulch too heavily or plant too deep. They need air (oxygen). Plants can be grown in pots for many years with care; some camellias have been in pots for twenty years and are still looking very good.

Camellias are lime hating, preferring a strongly acidic soil (pH of 5.0 to 5.5). Most camellias prefer semi-shade as full-sun can result in burned flowers and leaves.

Camellias that are more exposed to sun have smaller leaves. At the time of the year they flower it is dry (autumn and winter) so they can pollinate. When wet the pollen rots. Camellias have a waxy leaf surface that is why they get leaf burn when the temperature gets to 30 to 40 degrees. The wax protects the plant in cold wet winters.

There are a number of different varieties that do well in the Illawarra.

• Camellia Sasanqua - flowers in late autumn and winter. They are mostly single flowers. This is a tall-growing variety that can be clipped as a hedge. They need good drainage, plenty of organic matter and require their roots to be kept cool.

• Camellia Japonica - flowers in winter and early spring. There are hundreds of named varieties with single, semi-double or double flowers and a full range of colours. This variety does not handle salt spray or lots of sun. Plant in areas that are shady and protected.

• Camellia Sinensis is the Camellia used to make tea. It does well in a protected, semi-shade part of the garden. It is a slow grower, with small cream flowers that have a slight scent. The plant can be clipped into a decorative bush. It is the small fresh leaves that are selected, fermented and dried for tea.

Flowers for the house

To keep cut flowers fresh, pick your Camellias early in the morning or in the cool of the evening. Once the flower is picked, place it immediately into water - have a water-filled bucket handy when picking. Scrape or slit the stems before arranging them in a vase or display.

Planting

The best time to plant Camellias is in Winter or early Spring. This is also the time when they are available in nurseries. Take time when selecting and try to get one in bloom as the pictures on the bushes do not always reflect the size or colour of the flower.

Before planting your Camellia, soak the plant (including the pot) in a bucket of water to make sure the root ball is not dry. The plant will use a lot of this moisture in the root ball until it gets it new roots established.

Once planted, keep the ground free of weeds and water regularly to keep up the moisture. This is the hard bit - over-watering can rot the roots. DO NOT USE water-saving crystals. These will keep too much moisture near the roots. Camellias like to be well-drained. Once root rot takes hold (due to too much water and poor drainage) the plant usually dies.

Fertilise in July and December, use a complete fertiliser. As they need an acid soil, never use Dynamic Lifter, but instead use a quality cow manure. Also use a slow release fertiliser. A dose of Epsom Salts under the bush, watered in, just before flowering will encourage good flowers.

Camellias and roses can use the same fertilisers. Mulch well to keep the moisture in the soil and the roots cool.

Diseases, Pests and Problems

• Dieback of shoots is often due to a lack of molybdenum in the soil. Australian soils are lacking in a lot minerals and trace elements. Cut off the dead shoots and add a light dressing of calcium to correct acidity. Ensure any fertilisers contain trace elements.

• Molybdenum deficiency also results in leaves going brown. Again, dress with calcium and a complete fertiliser.

• Yellowing or red discolouration of leaves is due to nitrogen and phosphorus deficiency. Mix iron chelate (0.5 teaspoon) and epsom salts (0.5 teaspoon) in 4.5 litres of water and apply over the leaves of the Camellia. When in doubt, make the solution weaker so that the leaves are not burned.

• Black hibiscus beetle attacks flower buds and can be controlled by appropriate sprays

• If buds refuse to open this could be due to salt laden winds. This is a common problem with formal doubles, or it could be too much sun. Never allow morning sun on white camellias as they will burn and go brown.

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