NOTES DWITHIYA SOPAN

COMPASS

FINDING NORTH BY CONSTELLATIONS

 Star Method.

(1)   Less than 60 of approximately 5,000 stars visible to the eye are used by navigators. The stars seen as we look up at the sky at night are not evenly scattered across the whole sky. Instead they are in groups called constellations.

(2)   The constellations that we see depends partly on where we are located on the earth, the time of the year, and the time of the night. The night changes with the seasons because of the journey of the earth around the sun, and it also changes from hour to hour because the turning of the earth makes some constellations seem to travel in a circle. But there is one star that is in almost exactly the same place in the sky all night long every night. It is the North Star, also known as the Polar Star or Polaris.

(3)   The North Star is less than 1° off true north and does not move from its place because the axis of the earth is pointed toward it. The North Star is in the group of stars called the Little Dipper. It is the last star in the handle of the dipper. There are two stars in the Big Dipper, which are a big help when trying to find the North Star. They are called the Pointers, and an imaginary line drawn through them five times their distance points to the North Star. There are many stars brighter than the North Star, but none is more important because of its location. However, the North Star can only be seen in the northern hemisphere so it cannot serve as a guide south of the equator. The farther one goes north, the higher the North Star is in the sky, and above latitude 70°, it is too high in the sky to be useful (Figure 9-9).

FIGURE 9.9

Figure 9-9. Determining direction by the North Star and Southern Cross.

(4)   Depending on the star selected for navigation, azimuth checks are necessary. A star near the north horizon serves for about half an hour. When moving south, azimuth checks should be made every 15 minutes. When traveling east or west, the difficulty of staying on azimuth is caused more by the likelihood of the star climbing too high in the sky or losing itself behind the western horizon than it is by the star changing direction angle. When this happens, it is necessary to change to another guide star. The Southern Cross is the main constellation used as a guide south of the equator, and the above general directions for using north and south stars are reversed. When navigating using the stars as guides, the user must know the different constellation shapes and their locations throughout the world (Figure 9-10 and Figure 9-11).

Figure 9-10. Constellations, northern hemisphere.

FIGURE 9.10

 

Figure 9-11. Constellations, southern hemisphere.

FIGURE 9.11

 

SCOUT PACE

Pace (unit)

A pace (or double-pace or passus) is a measure of distance used in Ancient Rome. It is the measure of a full stride from the position of the heel when it is raised from the ground to the point the same heel is set down again at the end of the step. Thus, a distance can be “paced off” by counting each time the same heel touches ground, or, in other words, every other step. In Rome, this unit was standardized as two gradūs or five Roman feet (about 1.48 metres or 58.1 English inches). There are 1000 passus in one mille, and a mille was sometimes referred to as a mille passus.

The Byzantine pace or vema (βήμα [ˈvima]) was 2½ feet (pous)

A pace in modern terminology is usually taken as being a single pace rather than a double pace. It has no formal definition but is taken as being around 30 inches

Bearings

A directional compass is shown below.  It is used to find a direction or bearing .

The four main directions of a compass are known as cardinal points.  They are north (N), east (E), south (S) and west (W).  Sometimes, the half-cardinal points of north-east (NE), north-west (NW), south-east (SE) and south-west (SW) are shown on the compass.  The above compass shows degree measurements from 0° to 360° in 10° intervals with:

When using a directional compass, hold the compass so that the point marked north points directly away from you.  Note that the magnetic needle always points to the north.

Bearing

The true bearing to a point is the angle measured in degrees in a clockwise direction from the north line.  We will refer to the true bearing simply as the bearing.

For example, the bearing of point P is 065º which is the number of degrees in the angle measured in a clockwise direction from the north line to the line joining the centre of the compass at O with the point P (i.e. OP).

The bearing of point Q is 300º which is the number of degrees in the angle measured in a clockwise direction from the north line to the line joining the centre of the compass at Owith the point Q (i.e. OQ).

Note:

The bearing of a point is the number of degrees in the angle measured in a clockwise direction from the north line to the line joining the centre of the compass with the point.

A bearing is used to represent the direction of one point relative to another point.

For example, the bearing of A from B is 065º.  The bearing of B from A is 245º.

Note:

16 POINTS OF A COMPASS

Boxing the compass is the action of naming all thirty-two principal points of the compass in clockwise order.

 POINTS OF THE COMPASS

POINTS OF A COMPASS

 

 Before the Magnetic Compass was discovered, early map makers would draw a small 16 pointed circle on the map, and place an “N” to point to North. These were the 16 Cardinal Points from which the winds were thought to blow. This drawing was called a “Wind Rose.” When the magnetic compass came along, it was usually set on top of the Wind Rose pattern in order to help face the nautical chart in the proper direction. The wind rose started to become known as a COMPASS ROSE.

Since the 1100’s, compass bearings have been split into 16 different directions:

North – North North East – North East – East North East – East

East – East South East – South East – South South East – South

South South West – South West – West South West – West

West North West – North West – North North West – North

This was all the accuracy a Mariner’s Compass had to offer then. By today’s standards, it was not very accurate. As spherical mathematics improved, it became more customary to give bearings in units of “Degrees” from Geographic North. In the 1920’s, it became an accepted practice to indicate direction, called HEADING or BEARING, by a single number (0 to 360) representing degrees of a circle as measured clockwise from True North.

The development of the compass instrument itself represents quite an achievement, however the actual use of this instrument is more of an art form. The Compass is not by any means a complex instrument. Anyone from 9 to 90 should be able to learn compass operation with just some practice and understanding a few simple principles.

WHAT IS A COMPASS?

 

COMPASS

MEANING

A compass (or mariner’s compass) is navigational instrument for finding directions. It consists of a magnetised pointer free to align itself accurately with Earth‘s magnetic field. A compass provides a known reference direction which is of great assistance in navigation. The cardinal points are north, south, east and west. A compass can be used in conjunction with a clock and a sextant to provide a very accurate navigation capability. This device greatly improved maritime trade by making travel safer and more efficient.

A compass can be any magnetic device using a needle to indicate the direction of the magnetic north of a planet’s magnetosphere. Any instrument with a magnetized bar or needle turning freely upon a pivot and pointing in a northerly and southerly direction can be considered a compass. A compass dial is a small pocket compass with a sundial. A variation compass is a specific instrument of a delicate type of construction. It is used by observing variations of the needle. A gyrocompass can also be used to ascertain true North

ESTIMATION – HEIGHT AND DISTANCE

ESTIMATION – HEIGHT AND DISTANCE

ESTIMATION – DISTANCE AND HEIGHT

ESTIMATION – DISTANCE AND HEIGHT

ESTIMATION - 01

ESTIMATION - 02

ESTIMATION - 03

ESTIMATION

ESTIMATION

Learning to Judge Distance 

As a means of checking your estimates, learn the exact length of your pace. If fairly tall, learn to pace an exact yard, heel to heel. On a quiet road, in a field, or out on the prairie, begin judging short distances to various objects, then pacing to check your “guess.” Gradually increase the distances. Do this in competition with several other Scouts and you’ll find it an interesting game. Remember that the eye measures distance as in an “air line,” from eye to object, and does not allow for irregularities of the ground. In other words, ground distance may be greater than visual distance.

PERSONAL MEASUREMENT

As an aid in making short measurements you should know a number of your personal measurements. Your known hand-span will often be particularly useful. If fully developed your measurements will be close to this: 

Some Further Hints 

To estimate greater distances, judge the farthest probable distance, then the nearest possible, and “split the difference.”

FIRST AID

IMPROVISED STRETCHER

MAKING IMPROVISED STRETCHER

USING BLANKLETS AND POLES

IMPRPOVISED STRETCHER USING BLANKLETS AND POLES

USING ROPES

IMPROVISED STRETCHER USING ROPE

 

A PPT ON MAKING IMPROVISED STRETCHERS

Improvised Stretchers

PRECAUTIONS – GAS LEAK

Safe Handling of LPG

LPG gases are combustible and highly flammable. LPG can burn or explode when it comes in contact with air or a source of ignition. It has the potential to create a disaster. Since LPG is stored under pressure, it can leak from any joint or improperly sealed connection. Awareness or knowledge of safe handling LPG can eliminate the chance of fire or explosion. Following are some useful tips for safe handling of LPG cylinder.

Leaking of LPG

LPG is on fire

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WITH REGARD TO FIRE

Outdoor Fire Safety Rules for Scouts

By Michael Kozlowski, eHow Contributor

A large part of scouting is going on camping trips, and there are few things as pleasant during a camping trip as sitting by a fire, telling stories, roasting marshmallows, and enjoying the warmth and glow of the flames. However, to fully enjoy this experience and to ensure that you do not lose control of the fire, you need to observe some basic fire safety rules. By building, tending and extinguishing a fire safely, you can ensure that you are upholding your promise as a scout to treat nature with respect.

Location

Whether in a remote area or within the confines of a scout camp, where fire pits may already be on-site, you need to ensure that the location of the fire is suitable. Remove all burnable debris, twigs and leaves in a 10-foot diameter circle from the spot where you plan to build your fire. This will help to ensure that the fire cannot spread easily. Make certain you do not build the fire in an area with overhanging branches or old stumps nearby. Be sure to have water and a shovel nearby so that you can extinguish the fire quickly if necessary.

Building a Fire

The fire-making process should be supervised by the scout leader. A fire does not have to be large to provide warmth. A good bed of coals and some stones surrounding the fire will produce plenty of heat. Use small twigs and leaves to start the fire and add bigger pieces of wood as the fire grows. Point the largest pieces of wood toward the center of the fire and push them inward as they burn.

Keep any additional wood stacked a safe distance from the fire. Even small gusts of wind can cause a fire to spread. Never run or play around a fire. You must always remember the potential harm that fire can cause and treat it respectfully. Never leave a fire unattended.

Extinguishing the Fire

Use plenty of water to douse the fire. Use a shovel to stir the coals so that you can be certain there are no remaining embers. Mix in dirt with the water and stir the embers some more. Repeat this process until you can safely touch the remnants of the fire with your bare hands. Be sure to clean the area around the campfire and leave the site ready for others to enjoy. Scouts should always remember that the goal is to leave a natural area as if you had never been there.

THROWING A LIFELINE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THROWING A LIFELINE

Be able to throw a life line with reasonable accuracy.

 

 

All Scout camp and other Scout “swimming holes”, should, like public

swimming pools, be equipped with a life line and lifebuoy, hanging on the pegs

of a conveniently placed post; and Scout

Be Prepared

-ness should includethe ability to throw these.

Life lines usually are of half-inch hemp or manila rope, the length depending

upon the distance concerned.

The Test

 

.-For this test a rope between 30 and 50 feet in length should beused; and the thrower should place the bowline loop within grasping reach of

the “person in difficulty” four times out of five; any kink spoiling a throw.

The line always should be pliable and free of kinks. To assure this, and

whether kept coiled on a peg or otherwise, the line should regularly be taken

down and thrown a few times, then carefully re-coiled.

Life lines at public swimming pools sometimes have a weighted end, for

throwing. These, however, can be dangerous in the hands of an inexpert rescuer.

It is safer to make a bowline in one end of the line, with the advantage

that this loop can be grasped readily by the person being rescued, and probably

drawn over his head and shoulder, which makes his rescue sure.

Coiling a Life Line

 

.-It is most important that a life line be properlycoiled. To do this (having first made a bowline), hold the bowline in the left

hand, as the first coil. Now, with a twisting overhand movement (to equalize

kink tendency when thrown), add turn against turn until completed.

Now turn the coil completely around, so that the bowline is in the right

hand, and divide it, holding two thirds in the right hand, the balance in the

left, the end securely gripped, or better yet, tied to a post or tree.

 

Throwing

 

.-With a single, long under-arm swing (no whirling about thehead), heave the coil, aiming at a point directly beyond the person in difficulty-

unless there is a current to allow for-at the same time opening the left hand

to allow that portion of the line to run free. (For a left-handed Scout the procedure

would be reversed.)

After Use

 

.-Dry line before re-coiling.

New Rope

 

.-A new rope will require stretching. This may be done by tyingit at a “reaching” height between two suitably spaced trees, then hanging on

it. As it stretches it is tightened, until the stretch limit has been reached.

ANIMAL BITES

Animal bites

 

Overview

   Symptoms

   Treatment

   Prevention

INSECT BITES AND STINGS

INSECT BITES AND STINGS

Overview

   Causes Examples of biting insects

Examples of stinging insect

    Symptoms

   Treatment

In case of emergency-

   Consult a Doctor In case of the following, seek medical help

   Steps to Avoid

   Prevention 

Take caution to prevent your child from developing biting habit

BURNS AND SCALDS

BURNS AND SCALDS

Burns are caused by dry heat, corrosive substances and friction.  Scalds are caused by wet heat – hot liquids and vapours.  Burns can also be produced by extreme cold, and by radiation, including the sun’s rays.  Burns may be related to, or a result of, a more life-threatening situation.  Fires may be started accidentally by victims of drug or alcohol overdose.  An explosion, or jumping from a burning building, may cause other serious injuries.  When burns have been treated, the casualty should be thoroughly examined.

Assessing a Burn

There are a number of factors to consider when assessing the severity of a burn and the method of treatment, including the cause of the burn, whether the airway is involved, the depth of the burn, and its extent.

The extent of the burn will indicate whether shock is likely to develop, as tissue fluid (serum) leaks from the burned area and is replenished by fluids from the circulatory system.  The greater the extent of the burn, the more severe the shock will be.  The cause of the burn may also signal any other possible complications.  Burns also carry a serious risk of infection, which increases according to the size and depth of the burn.  The body’s natural barrier, the skin, is destroyed by burning, leaving it exposed to germs.

Depth of Burns

Burns can be categorised as follows:

Superficial burns

These involve only the outer layer of the skin, and are characterised by redness, swelling and tenderness.  Typical examples are mild sunburn, or a scald produced by a splash of hot tea or coffee.  Superficial burns usually heal well if prompt first aid is given, and do not require medical treatment unless extensive.

Partial-thickness Burns

These damage a ‘partial thickness’ of the skin, and require medical treatment.  The skin looks raw, and blisters form.  These burns usually heal well, but can be serious, if extensive.  In adults, partial-thickness burns affecting more than 50% of the body’s surface can be fatal.  This percentage is less in children and the elderly.

Full-thickness Burns

These damage all layers of the skin.  Damage may extend beyond the skin to affect nerves, muscle and fat.  The skin may look pale, waxy, and sometimes charred.  Full-thickness burns of any size always require immediate medical attention, and usually require specialist treatment.

Extent of Burns

The area of a burn gives an approximate indication of the degree of shock that will develop and, in conjunction with depth, can be used as a guide to the required level of treatment.  The ‘rules of nine’ is a guide used to calculate the extent of a burn as a percentage of the body’s total surface area, and to assess what level of medical attention is required.

In an otherwise healthy adult:

Severe Burns and Scalds

The priority is to cool the injury; the longer the burning goes unchecked, the more severely the casualty will be injured.  Resuscitate the casualty only when cooling is underway.  All severe burns carry the danger of shock.

Treatment of Severe Burns and Scalds

DO NOT overcool the casualty; this may dangerously lower the body temperature.

DO NOT remove anything sticking to the burn; this may cause further damage and cause infection.

DO NOT touch or interfere with the injured area.

DO NOT burst blisters.

DO NOT apply lotions, ointment, or fat to the injury.

Burns to the Mouth and Throat

Burns to the face, and burns in the mouth or throat are very dangerous, as they cause rapid swelling and inflammation of the air passages.  The swelling will rapidly block the airway, giving rise to a serious risk of suffocation.  Immediate and highly specialised medical assistance is required.

Treatment of Burns to the Mouth and Throat

Minor Burns and Scalds

Minor burns and scalds are usually the result of domestic accidents.  Prompt first aid will generally enable them to heal naturally and well, but the advice of a medical practitioner should be sought if there is doubt as to the severity of the injury.

Treatment of Minor Burns and Scalds

DO NOT use adhesive dressings.

DO NOT break blisters, or interfere with the injured area.

DO NOT apply lotions, ointments, creams, or fats to the injured area.

SPRAINS

   Causes

    Symptoms

   Treatment

   Consult a doctor If the following occurs-

   Steps To Avoid

   Prevention

Do not wear ill-fitting shoes

BLEEDING FROM NOSE

BLEEDING FROM NOSE

Overview • A nose bleed occurs when a small vein, along the lining of nose, bursts • Most nosebleeds look scary, but are harmless • Can be treated at home • Common in children/elderly

Causes • Dryness • Nose picking • Blowing nose with force • Use of medications, like aspirin • Introducing objects into nose (mostly children) • Injuries • Allergies • Infections • High BP • Atherosclerosis • Blood-clotting disorders • Use of cocaine Symptoms •

Bleeding from nose • Sometimes bleeding from ears/mouth too Types a. Anterior Nosebleed • Affects lower part of wall that separates nostrils • The wall or septum contains blood vessels • These can be broken by blow to nose/fingernail • The bleeding starts from front of nose • It flows outward when patient is sitting/standing • Occurs during dry season/harsh winter b. Posterior Nosebleed • The bleeding starts deep within the nose • It flows down the back of the mouth & throat • This happens even when the person is sitting/standing • Occurs in old people/those with high BP/injuries • This type of bleeding is severe/ requires medical help

Treatment • If your nose bleeds, • Sit down and lean forward • Using your thumb & index finger, squeeze soft part of nose • This part is between end of nose and the bridge of nose • Continue holding till bleeding stops- • Do not stop in-between • If bleeding continues, hold for another 10 minutes • If the patient is a child, divert attention by TV/Stories • Avoid picking, blowing or rubbing nose for 2 days • Place an ice pack on the bridge of nose Consult a Doctor If, • The bleeding continues for more than 15 minutes • The bleeding is caused by an injury • You get nosebleeds often

Prevention • Keep fingernails short • Quit smoking • Open your mouth while sneezing • Use a humidifier at night in case of dry weather Read more: Nose Bleed – First Aid and Emergency 

HITCHES

MARLINE SPIKE HITCH

MARLINE SPIKE HITCH

MARLINE SPIKE HITCH 01

MARLINE SPIKE HITCH 02

figure of eight knot

Figure of Eight knot, Flemish knot, Savoy knot

 

 Tip: The Figure of Eight is useful to temporarily stop the ends of a rope fraying, before it is whipped.

rolling hitch

timer hitch

As well as being used to start a diagonal lashing, a timber hitch can be used as a temporary knot when you need to drag, tow or lift a log or pole. (see second diagram)

timber hitch

LASHINGS

SQUARE LASHING

SQUARE LASHING

 

Square lashings are used to bind together two spars that are at right angles with one another.

i) Place the poles on the ground in the shape of a cross. Tie a clove hitch around the bottom pole near the crosspiece. Twist the free end of the rope around its standing part and tuck it out of the way. 

ii) Make three or four wraps around the spars, keeping the rope very tight. As you form the wraps, lay the rope on the outside of each previous turn around the crosspiece, and on the inside of each previous turn around the bottom pole. 

iii) Then wind three or four frapping turns around the wrapping to tighten the lashing as much as you can.  

iv) Finish it off with another clove hitch.

sheer lashing

For sheer legs, where the spars are opened to form an inverted ‘V’.

Line up the ends of the spars

 

The lashing tightens as the sheer legs are opened which is why the first turns round the spars should not be too tight or it will not be possible to open the legs as required  (c).

sheer lashing

Introduction

A sheer lashing is often sued to bind adjacent poles together. It is also a good way to reinforce a broken or weak pole. The frapping turns used to tighten the lashing may be omitted and replaced with wedges inserted between the poles.

A loose Sheer Lashing made around the ends of two poles will allow the poles to be opened out and used as an A-frame. It can also be used to form a tripod just like the Figure-of-eight lashing.

Step by Step Guide

sheer lashing

parallel or round lashing

For joining two spars to increase the overall length eg when making a flag pole –

 

It is important to have a good overlap of spars – between a quarter and a third of their length.

parallel lashing

square lashing

Introduction

A Square Lashing is used to hold two poles that cross each other (usually at a 90-degree angle although not necessarily). If the angle of contact is less than 45 degrees a sheer lashing should be used.

It can also be used where the load on one pole may cause it to slip over the other.

It is important to note that there should be no tendency for the poles to slip apart. If the force tends to separate the poles only the rope will be supporting the load.

To make this lashing as tight as possible it is important to tighten each turn as it is made. Frapping turns stabilize the lashing and tighten it further.

When tying a square lashing, the poles and the rope must be positioned properly to achieve the maximum strength. The cross pole should be positioned so that the force applied to the cross pole is directed toward the pole it is lashed to. This allows the contact between the wood to take part of the load.

Step by Step Guide

square lashing

diagonal lashing

Introduction

A Diagonal Lashing is used to bind two poles together that cross each other but do not touch (or are likely to be pulled apart) when their ends are lashed in place in a structure. Often used for securing diagonal braces used to hold a structure rigid.

When wooden poles are used in a lattice like structure a combination of Diagonal and Square lashings is used to hold them together.

The Diagonal Lashing can be used to bind poles that cross at an angle of between 90 to 45 degrees. If the angle between the poles is less than 45 degrees a sheer lashing should be used.

Note: If a square lashing was used to bind poles that do not touch the beginning clove hitch would pull the cross pole towards it causing unnecessary bowing of the cross pole and could also produce a force that would act along the length of the pole to which the clove hitch is tied. This could place unnecessary strain on other lashings and cause the structure to twist and fail.

Step by Step Guide

diagonal lashing

SIGNALLING

 MORSE CODE

In the Morse Code letters are formed by a series of dots and dashes by using a Morse Key attached to a buzzer. Because of its adaptability, Morse Code is more useful than Semaphore, but it requires much practice to become proficient.

Morse Code signals and their meaning:

VE VE VE Calling up signal

K Carry On. (Answer to VE, if ready to receive message)

Q Wait. (Answer to VE if not ready to receive message.)

T General answer

AAA Period or decimal

AR End of message

R Message received correctly

8 dots Erase.

GB Good Bye. (used when closing down)

MORSE CODE - ALPHABETS

SEMAPHORE SIGNALING

Semaphore signaling is used mainly for short distance communications.

SEMAPHORE SIGNALS BY FLAG

 

Some points to remember: