Modelling Tools and Materials

Modelling Tools…most of what you might need.

Before you read the following list, be assured that you do not need to rush out and buy everything on the list. As I've said, this is what I have in front of me at the moment. I've been modelling for some time now, and have collected stuff over a period of years.

Plus, a lot of what's on the list can be found at really low prices, in shops that have naff all to do with modelling.

Currently, in my model box in front of me, I have;

A good, sharp knife. …I prefer a Stanley knife, that holds spare blades in the handle and is very sharp. I’ve also used a craft knife that was able to take a variety of different blades. However, I only really ever used the normal cutting blade.

Loctite Superglue Gel. I stopped using polystyrene cement a long, long time ago. It took too long to set and its tendency to dissolve the plastic you were working with, was something I could do without. I then discovered Superglue gel and a little goes a long way, it sets relatively quickly and it doesn't mar the plastic.

Loctite Superglue Liquid. I also use this on the rare occasions I want the sticky stuff to run along a seam. It's also essential for setting that Liquid Gravity.

Zipkicker Accelerator. Sometimes, such as when I'm rigging, I want the supergel gel to set immediately. Zipkicker does this for me. However, if buying some for yourself, buy the stuff in a spray bottle. The little tube is ideal for applying the stuff.

Zipkicker also comes in an aerosol. If you make the error of getting it in this format, you can still spray the can into a bottle or jar.

Liquid Gravity. This is amazing stuff and dashed useful. Essentially, it is thousands of tiny balls of a lead-like substance. You use it to add weight and is especially useful when space within your model is limited. Even if you forget to add noseweight, all is not lost. You can drill a hole and pour the Liquid Gravity in. Once you've added the Liquid Gravity, you pour in Liquid Superglue to set it in place.

Evo-Stik Serious Glue. This glue has a very strong bond and is much, much stronger than Kristal Klear. It dries clear and sets after 3 minutes. It is fully cured after 24 hours. Certainly, for transparencies, I've found nothing better.

Micro Kristal Klear. In spite of Serious Glue, this pva-like glue still has its uses. I use it to fill gaps and to glaze windows.

Tweezers…Slant-edged and fine-point. The latter can be quite expensive. Check out the make-up section of your local chemist and supermarket. Remember that you can wrap tape around the tape, for a better grip.

Cocktail sticks…As already mentioned, but I have a few with points and a few with the point "mushed"...these are better for applying superglue, "zip kicker" and other stuff.

Various grades of sandpaper/grit paper.

A lint-free polishing cloth.

Selection of needle files. …I have one that is round in cross-section, a flat one and one that is triangular in cross-section.

Brushes…A good selection of quality watercolour brushes, or relatively expensive modellers brushes.

Flat metal file for nails...You know the type...the sort with a little hooky bit at the end. This is ideal for opening tins of enamels and the hooky bit is great for cleaning the upper rim of your paint pots.

Very sharp, pointy scissors...Especially good for trimming decals.

Cutting mat. I invested in 2 large ones, which completely cover my work space.

Old brush handles…For stirring. You could use pieces of sprue.

Small sponge applicators...You can get these in packs, on their own or with make-up brushes. The brushes can be used for applying pastel dust for weathering and such like. The sponges can be used for applying a mottled-effect camouflage.

Razor saw. …This is like a small tenon saw and is again, very sharp. Useful for making larger cuts.

Scribing tool...for scribing. Whilst you can buy proper scribing tools from proper modelling supply shops, I got mine from my dentist.

Plastic syringes…Without the needles! Courtesy of my local Practice Nurse. Second hand and thoroughly cleaned out of the oily drugs they once contained, these are useful for adding measured drops of paints of thinners to paint.

Pin Vice…A little gizmo that will hold, by way of a hand tightenable (!) screw, all manner of small and tiny drill bits.

I also use a Minidrill;

Tiny drill bits.

Compass Cutter…A device that lets you cut small circles.

Steel rule. Quite essential for cutting masking tape and plasticard. A wooden or plastic one will get cut by your knife.

Cuticle Pusher…for applying and smoothing out fillers.

Clothes pegs...Wooden if you can get them...ideal for holding things together.

Rubber bands…For the same purpose. You can also use those wide rubber bands to mask stripes around fuselages and wings and stuff.

A bottle of Johnson’s "Klear”...’Nuff said.

My trusty old toothbrush...used for removing paint from Mr.Muscle'd kit parts.

Various containers...a large, lidded box to put my stuff in whenever I need a dust-free environment. For example, when I've applied a gloss coat, or a coat of "Klear" to some transparencies.

Empty film canisters...useful for keeping small bits/greeblies for the Spares box, completed ordnance, crew, smaller pieces that have parted company from the sprue...etc., etc…

Blu-Tak…for holding small parts, propping up pieces, masking and for keeping rigging threads under control. Also for providing something for bay doors to sit on, when closed, prior to being superglued into place.

MicroSet and MicroSol. These solutions are good for doing what they say on the bottle. Namely, the Microset will help set a decal into place. The Microsol is stronger stuff and will disSOLve the decal and cause it to adhere over the most irregular of surfaces.

Tamiya Masking Tape. The mutts nuts of masking tapes and accept no substitute. This is made of the stuff that quality masks are made of. Buy it in its 18mm width, so you can slice it into strips.

A big box to put it all in!