Embedded Files
Unlike a pleated heading curtain, wave curtains use less fabric (since there are no pleats or gathers) & can be hung on a pole with their ‘waves’ effect. Curtains can be purchased with eyelets but an alternative, tape heading can be removed & purchased eyelets added.
Unlike a pleated heading curtain, wave curtains use less fabric (since there are no pleats or gathers) & can be hung on a pole with their ‘waves’ effect. Curtains can be purchased with eyelets but an alternative, tape heading can be removed & purchased eyelets added.
The sample curtain (a medium-weight polyester) shown here is purchased ready-made with a lining & tape heading attached. In this example, the eyelets are Rufflette Jupiter rings & instead of the recommended eyelet tape, a medium sew-in dressmaking interfacing is used for stiffening the upper edge & stabilizing it for the eyelet attachment.
The sample curtain (a medium-weight polyester) shown here is purchased ready-made with a lining & tape heading attached. In this example, the eyelets are Rufflette Jupiter rings & instead of the recommended eyelet tape, a medium sew-in dressmaking interfacing is used for stiffening the upper edge & stabilizing it for the eyelet attachment.
1. This is the reverse side of the original curtain & shows the tape stitched across the upper edge, as purchased. This is what is going to be altered.
2. Carefully unpick & remove this tape, discarding any loose threads from the curtain.
NOTE: The curtain SHOULD NOT YET BE PRESSED as the old fold lines will be used as stitching guides.
3. (With the tape removed, the folded seam allowance is to be retained and later used for seams.) Turn the curtain inside out with right sides facing each other & main fabric uppermost. Match the upper fold lines of both curtain & lining (ie. old seam line), pin together ensuring both fabrics lay perfectly flat & tack in position.
4. Cut the interfacing into a strip: twice the desired heading depth x the width of the curtain. Fold in half lengthwise - the folded central line (shown in red below) will be used as a stitching guide.
5. Place the interfacing strip along the upper edge of the curtain, matching the foldline of the interfacing to the old foldline of the curtain. Ensuring the interfacing lays flat, pin & tack in place, then stitch through all thicknesses following the guide of the interfacing central foldline.
6. Fold the upper section of the interfacing back on itself (along the stitching line) to reveal the upper seam allowances. This double layer of interfacing (laying next to the main curtain) will ensure the upper edge of the finished curtain remains flat when hung & additionally provides reinforcement for the eyelets when stitching their holes and when securing them finally in place.
7. Trim the seam raw edges to appx. 0.5"/1cm.
8. Turn curtain to right side & lightly press upper edges – image shows both right & lining sides.
9. This is the Rufflette Jupiter rings: - left, the entire ring (right side facing, shown here in bronze) which is made up of 2 sections, as per images to right.
The upper ring (at right with 'spikes') is to be positioned on the main fabric (right side) & the lower ring (below right, ridged) is positioned to the reverse of the fabric, against the lining.
The eyelets are packaged complete & have to be separated into their 2 halves. To do this, there is a small indent on one side of the joined rings & this is used to ‘split’ the pair apart. I found a letter opener was easier & safer to use than the recommended screwdriver!
10. Place fabric on flat surface, right side down with lining facing. Using the spiked ring inner hole, mark this hole along curtain upper edge (circle outlines just visible).
The curtain here is 66"/167cm wide & is to have 10 eyelet 'holes'. The holes are appx. 1.5"/4cm diameter; spaced 7.25"/18.5cm apart (between the & 3.25"/8.5cm in from the sides.
NOTE: Ideally only an even number of holes should be used.
11. After marking the holes, all layers of the fabric need to be stitched together. This holds the area in place when cutting out the hole & ensures it remains in position while the ring is being attached. (In reality, it's much easier to cut out the hole when all layers are held in place with stitching.)
Stitch around each of the marked holes on the curtain. This can be completed on the sewing machine using a small straight stitch but I found it easier to have the machine set up for machine embroidery/free stitching as it allows the hole to be more easily stitched! As the hole is only being stitched for stability & easier cutting, a perfect circle is not necessary (as seen in image above).
12. Using the ring with small spikes on the inside (the spikes lightly 'pierce' the fabric to hold it in position), on an even & firm surface, place the fabric (wrong side facing) over the ring so that the spikes are next to the main fabric. Press down on the fabric so that it sits snugly into the ring. Above shows the first ring in place with the hole sitting firmly around the ring's inner edge.
13. With the other ring half (the one with inner grooves), position it over the previous ring - grooves to the inside & facing the wrong side of the curtain.
14. Working on a firm & flat surface, carefully press down on this upper ring & it should snap down firmly in place.
NOTE: It's tempting to 'work in the hand' but I found it much easier & quicker to work flat on the table.
15. Repeat the process for all rings across the width of the curtain.
NOTE: If any mistakes or puckering, remove the ring from the wrong side as per original 'splitting them in half' & start again in attaching it.
16. Here's the curtains now finished & pressed.
SPECIAL NOTE: Overall I was very impressed with using these Eyelet rings & would recommend their use. Although the packaging states for light to heavier weight curtains, I would suggest that a test is completed on thicker fabric to verify/confirm that the fabric is securely attached into the ring.
Page updated
Google Sites
Report abuse