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An almost invisible hand stitched hem is obtained by using a ' LOCK-STITCH '. It can be worked on almost any garment with a single thickness hem.
NOTE: The hem shown here is that on a pair of trousers with the addition of 5/8 inch or 15mm Petersham/grosgrain along the inner hemline edge (instructions are for a right handed stitcher - reverse stitching directions if left-handed). The trousers were shortened & excess fabric removed - a 2"/5cm hem allowance is allowed.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
Lock-stitch is stitched somewhat like blanket stitch but with several differences:
It is worked from right to left
Instead of pulling the needle through the fabric TOWARDS the thread loop, the needle is pulled AWAY from it. This results in a ‘twist’ on the thread loop which acts as a ‘locked or twisted’ stitch.
There are regular/even gaps between each stitch – these must be constant but can vary in size depending on fabric type. A good average is 3/8 inch or 1cm.
The thread should remain generally loose & should not be pulled tight.
ESSENTIAL FOR WORKING
A fine needle with a good sharp point is essential & a single thickness thread is recommended although for a thick fabric, it can be double.
When pinning, use pins at right-angles to the fabric’s edge – this will ensure that fabric layers do not ‘creep’ (ie. move against each other) whilst stitching.
To ensure stitching becomes almost invisible after finishing, each stage should be pressed after completion (ie. after addition of petersham tape if used & from the inside leg of the hem (both sides) – after finishing, press on the wrong & right sides of the hemline. NOTE: ALL pressings assist the stitching to ‘sink’ into the fabric & become invisible
INSTRUCTIONS
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Hem allowance adjustment
Ensure the hem allowance is an even depth & if legs are shaped or taper, ensure side seams have a shaped seam allowance to allow for the return-hem shaping.
Upper image: Hem folded back with no side seam adjustment - it is narrower & will not stitch correctly
Lower image: The side seam has been opened to allow the hem allowance seam to be re-shaped.
2. Hem side seam remarking
If necessary, unpick the hem side seam allowances (red circle is hem depth) & remark (red line) from raw edge to hem foldline.
NOTE: First alter the outer leg hem seam; press open & apply the petersham before remarking & restitiching the inner leg hem seam. This allows the petersham to be neatly stitched into the seam.
3. Hem side seam restitching
Restitch from raw edge to hem foldline (red dot) & snip seam allowance at foldline (ie. to red dot) to allow the side seam to open out. Press open.
4. Reshaped hem side seam
Above image shows the hem folded back to show the side seam restitched prior to pressing it open.
Although shown here only pinned, the width adjustment has been made & the hem will now lay flat when stitched.
5. Stitching petersham
If using petersham along the inner hem edge, stitch this in position now:
Mark finished hemline with a row of horizontal pins & lay petersham along this line (it will lay within the hem allowance & abut the folded hem edge). Stitch along both edges.
6. Restitch inner seam & overlock edge
Restitch inner leg seam allowance (as per instruction 2 & 3 above) - also including the petersham allowance with the seam.
Overlock raw edge of trouser leg to neaten.
7. Press seams & petersham
Press hem seams open & also press petersham from both sides of the fabric.
Upper image: Before pressing
Lower image: After pressing
8. Fold & pin hem
Turn trouser leg to inside facing you.
Fold hem allowance to inside along the edge of the petersham - pinning at right-angles to the edge to hold in place.
9. 2nd Fold of hem
Lightly fold hem allowance back on itself towards the trouser leg outside - it almost automatically "falls in on itself".
10. 3rd Fold
As the trouser hem falls inside, leave appx. 0.25" / 5mm surplus fabric protruding along the folded edge.
11. Final pinning
Pin this edge at right-angles to hold all layers together.
12. Stitch hem
Working from right to left & with wrong side facing (using fine needle & single thickness thread), take several small stitches at the inner leg seam to secure thread to begin working.
13. Stitch on the fold - 1st stitch
Take a small stitch on the edge of the fold of the fabric (ie. actually through the edge of the fold) & pull loosely through, looping the thread above the needle.
Above image: Shows the needle position through the folded edge & the looped thread above it
14. Subsequent stitching
Pick up 2-3 threads of fabric appx. 0.25/0.5" / 5-10mm from this first stitch but this time on the 5mm surplus edge & immediately below it then through to the folded edge.
Ensure the thread remains 'looped' above the needle & pull the needle towards you. Ensure the loop remains underneath the needle (somewhat resembling an upside-down blanket stitch.) Pull thread through leaving it slack.
15. Complete hem
Repeat the process around the hem & fasten off. Remove all pins.
Above image: The twist/lock of the thread can be clearly seen to the right of the pin where the thread loop is
16. 'Sink' stitching into fabric
Lightly pull widthways across the hemline – this allows the stitching to ‘even-out’.
Above image: The lock-stitch can be clearly seen loosely running parallel to the fold.
17. Press inner hem
Press hem on inside of leg – this helps to adjust the stitching slackness & aids all parts of the stitches to ‘sink’ into the fabric.
Above image: Red circle shows visible stitching on inside hem - almost indistinguishable along the entire edge
18. Turn leg to outside
Turn leg to outside & again lightly pull widthways across the hemline to ‘even-out’ the stitching.
Above image: Clearly visible stitching on right side BEFORE PRESSING
19. Press leg hemline
Repress leg on right side, using a cloth if necessary.
This second pressing allows the stitching to sink into the front of the work & helps it to become almost invisible.
Above image: Almost invisible stitching on right side
20. Finish
Leg now finished & hanging down as worn & as they hang, the stitching becomes almost invisible depending on the colour & type of thread used
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