Making a Boned Bodice

1. Dress style for boned bodice

This is a design sketch for the dress that the boned bodice will be worn under. At the start of its making it was intended to be a separate corset but was changed to become an integral interlining to support some of the net skirts.

2. Make a pattern

After an initial toile was fitted, guidelines for creating a torso bodice pattern were made (outlined in red above on the 1st toile).

3. Cut in canvas

Making these pattern shapes in a woven canvas resulted in 4 panels (from left to right): centre back, side back, side front, centre front. They extended below the waistline & dipped at front & back (see Demi-toile section at CiCi Designs for sizing). No seam allowances are included.

4. Cut in lawn for covering

Cut the canvas shapes in cotton lawn with the addition of generous seam allowances (I used 0.75”/2cm everywhere except at the centre back where there was an allowance of 1.5” (4cm) for a zip). Cut away 1/16” (1.5mm) from all edges of the canvas pieces then lay on the cotton lawn panels (canvas side uppermost). Pin to hold in place.

5. Stitch canvas to lawn

AND NOW FOR THE FIRST but easier bit .... you will be ROLLING or CURVING the lawn around the canvas as mentioned above * (see also image step 6) .... The easier bit is that you only have to sew 1 row of stitching 1/16” (1.5mm) from all edges of the canvas. ADVICE here is to try on a small sample first to get the "curving action" correct which incidentally is the MOST IMPORTANT part of making this type of bodice.

6. Use 'rolling technique'

Below shows the curving or rolling of the lawn over the canvas as you stitch.

7. Close-up of edge stitch

Below is a close-up of the stitching which is a lot easier to complete if you are able to move the needle position on your machine to the distance required & use the edge of the machine foot as a guide along the canvas edge. JUST ENSURE you maintain an even curve & roll as you work. The next step is going to be a little harder ... just remember that again, the lawn must be ROLLED or CURVED around the canvas as before.

8. 'Quilt' the canvas & lawn

Stitch the lawn to the canvas in rows (it somewhat resembles quilting) ... up & down the length of the bodice - appx. 0.5”/1.3cm apart at the waist area (see below where it narrows slightly above the lower edge). Follow the general shape of the canvas where the lines of stitching widen to appx. 1”/2.5cm at lower & upper edges. BUT SEE IMAGE Step 9 BEFORE YOU COMPLETE THIS !

9. Use 'rolling technique'

The image above again shows the " rolling & curving " action as you stitch the individual rows. PLEASE NOTE that is only showing the action needed not the actual stitching.

Ensure the lawn is being retained in a slight curve around the canvas by holding it in this ‘curved’ position whilst you stitch.

10. Graduating & shaping the stitching

The image above details the upper part of a panel & how the rows of stitching taper off at the top. There are no strict rules for these "quilted" rows but what is important is that they are there to hold the lawn in place against the canvas & ensure it retains this slightly curved position during wear.

When viewed from the lawn side of the stitching, puckering is visible becasue the piece is flat - when curved against the body, this disappears!

11. Add covered boning (purchased)

After completing the rows of quilting on ALL the panels, lay lengths of covered boning on the canvas side, appx. in a central position on each of the 4 side panels & the centre back ones. NOTE: If boning is required at centre front, this will be completed later, after the central front seam is stitched & through the seam allowance layers.) Stitch the boning through both layers of fabric & across all 4 sides. If the boning has sharp ends (& most do even if they are cut & smoothed off) adding small reinforcement squares of fabric to each end will prevent the plastic boning from cutting through the canvas/lawn.

12. Reinforce boning ends

Image below shows the small rectangle of fabric covering the ends of the boning. Placed under the edge & then folded back over, it covers the end & is stitched over as the boning is held down in place. It is a good idea to stitch these ends just turning the machine fly-wheel by hand to make the stitches. The plastic is fairly thick & could break the needle or damage the machine if care in stitching is not taken.

13. Join panels together

AND NOW FOR ANOTHER part of the ROLLING or CURVING technique - this time to join the individual sections together. With a side panel uppermost, pin to its counterpart section (ie. side back to centre back) BUT WITHIN the seam allowances. Be careful not to catch in the canvas & carefully stitch just outside the edge of the canvas thereby joining just the lawn. Check the underside of the stitching to ensure the canvas is not caught in the seam.

14. Reinforce seams if necessary

Image above shows a close-up of the stitched seam (this row is closest to the canvas). Depending on fabric type & tightness of bodice, a second seam may need to be stitched on top of the first for durability & should now be completed (image shows it to the right of the first row for clarification purposes not precise positioning).

15. Clip seam allowances

Clip seam irregularly along each allowance - this prevents the edges rolling. Open out curve of the seam & finger-press allowances open.

(In the case of this dress, the side seams were left pending a further fitting which had to verify other dress sections. After this, they too were stitched together.)

16. Encased boning

To provide additional strength at the seams, stability to the bodice & (as an option at a later stage) add additional boning if necessary, I also stitched bias strips to the seams (uncovered boning could be then be inserted into them).

Satin bias binding tape was used. Pin the bias tape flat & centrally over the seam.

17. Stitch bias tape

Ensuring you only stitch the tape to the seam allowance & leaving pins in place, machine stitch along the outer folded edge of the bias binding tape.

18. Stitch other edge of bias tape

Do not remove pins but stitch along the other folded edge of the tape.

Remove pins.

19. Neaten seam edges

The seam edges are then overlocked to neaten.

If boning is to be inserted, cover ends with a rectangle of fabric & insert into the casings.

20. Finishing

After a previous fitting, it was decided that the boned bodice should become an integral part of an interlining (see above) both for comfort & support of the net layers. This revised undergarment covered the original canvas with an 'outer' covering - mainly to prevent the 'quilting lines' showing through the fabric of the final dress but also to use for attaching the layers of nets.