2015 bike cross country

Emily and Adam drove to our parents' house in Flat Rock, MI after packing up at home. Steven packed and drove up as well. We all arrived in the evening, unpacked everything we had brought, and re-packed the bike bags to see if everything fit. It did, and we had room to spare!

Here is our progress at 11:45pm, and the packed bike boxes:

Then we worked on contacting Warmshowers (WS) hosts and planning the beginning of our route!

This photo is from 12:32am:

We went to bed by about 1 or 2 am to get up early......

Day 1: 3 Jun Wed

fly DTW to PDX (via DEN), with two bicycles!

bike from PDX to bus station, bus to Seaside, bike to WS host. (~16 miles, ~500 feet of climbing)

Woke up around 3 am (6am flight out of DTW), packed the car, and our kind parents (and Adam) drove us to the airport.

Here we are with the bikes just unloaded from the car at the drop-off zone, and carrying our bikes into the check-in....

Bikes are all checked in at the baggage claim.... next stop Portland! (well, Denver, for a layover)

Landed in Portland,

Arrived around 9:30 and got our bikes from a large package pick up with no person there to check to see if we got the right baggage.

We assumbled our bikes at the PDX bicycle assembly station!

Took about 2 hours assembling and such. Everything made it- no broken pieces!

Almost ready to roll, and following the Portland bike routes to downtown

We biked along trails, through neighborhoods,

over the river and into downtown Portland! stopping at a coffee shop in the Pearl district

then to stock up on camp fuel and get some Voodoo Doughnuts!

(donuts would soon become a theme of this trip....)

Emily's donut had chocolate and oreo and peanut butter. Yum! Then went to a coffee shop and hung out to use internet. Hung out and killed some time, rode in light rain to that one bookstore and past the park, then back to the bus station. On the way back, Emily got her tire stuck in a streetcar rut and fell in the street, scraping her hand and elbow and feeling really embarrassed. Ended up making it on the bus no problem.

We caught the 6:20pm bus from Portland to Astoria, and biked the last stretch to the Pacific Ocean

After a brief stop at the ocean for sunset,

we headed to our host's house (Neil!)

We chatted with Neil for a while before finishing up and going to bed. He’s great- friendly, school counselor, cross country coach, great to talk with. Very grateful for a warm, dry, comfortable place to stay before heading out in the morning!

Day 2: 4 Jun Thu

bike from Seaside, OR to Longview, WA (84 miles, 4500 feet of climbing)

We said goodbye to Neil then took a quick walk out to the Pacific Ocean!

Too far to drag the bikes at this point, but we touched it ourselves:

Beautiful views on the coast, but we had places to go, and headed up the hills

Just outside of Seaside took a huge climb up for what seemed like forever. Led to some great downhills, though! Took a break for sunscreen and snacks, stopped at a Fred Meyer, which we discovered are like Kroger.

After a little re-routing around a closed bridge (like, really closed!), we arrived in Astoria (on the unpleasant bridge over the Lewis and Clark River)

Our most notable experience was seeing a huge group of sea lions on the docks! We actually heard them before we saw them.

They were going to be scared off by a giant remote controlled orca, but winds and waves prevented it

We also dipped our wheels in the salty water before we got too far inland!

Continuing east, we moved along, some more hills, more snacks, until we got to Westport where we took a cool ferry across the river to Puget Island. Rode from there to the mainland, then over on 4.

There is even a video!

Second state: Washington:

Biking along the Columbia River - beautiful (and flat!), and with our hosts in Longview:

Some more long hills up and quick downs. Called our hosts- mixed up and called the next nights host first saying we’d be there in an hour, then realized my mistake and called back (he was vacuuming- oops!) Then called the right people and continued on our way. Had a great last stretch in Longview (named after Long, lumber guy in 1910s who built a planned city), and got to Dennis and Jean’s homme around 7:45. Showered quick, then went up to chat and eat a delicious dinner of broccoli, chicken, noodles, bean salad, and bread. They put mayonnaise on their steamed broccoli- something new and interesting we hadn’t seen before. Talked a long while about all kinds of things. They have 3 daughters—one is a teacher. They moved from California, simple living, great conversation. Got the wifi password before heading to bed.

Day 3: 5 Jun Fri

bike from Longview, WA to Gresham, OR (67 miles, 2900 feet of climbing)

Late night. Got up in a super comfy bed around 7, Steven slept in till 7:30. Got up, got ready, packed up our bikes, then went up and had breakfast with Jean. So nice. Left there and stayed in Washington, following the route we had discussed the night before. Followed a highway for part, and even rode on the highway for about 7ish miles. No hills near as bad as the day before.

Heading south along the Washington side of the Columbia.

Taking a break in Kalama, stopping for strawberries, and a yummy fish lunch around 2pm!

Taking a break at a great view for a photo! This was just outside of the Washington State Univesity Vancouver campus, where we found a fountain!

Following the mountain to our hosts' house, in the middle of the very noisy highway (back in OR!), over and along the river

Rode down some and away from Portland till we got to Gresham. Stopped at a gas station to use the bathroom and water refill, then went to McD for internet (which didn’t work) and I got a cheeseburger for dinner. Yum! Biked the last bit to Garret and Margie’s home and met their labradoodle Riley. Showered and cleaned up and even talked to Adam on the phone for a bit too. Yay! Went upstairs to chat with our hosts and ended up talking till 11:45. I am so tired!

Day 4: 6 Jun Sat

bike from Gresham, OR to Hood River, OR (53 miles, 5100 feet of climbing)

Slept in pretty late till 7:45. Got up, packed up, and went upstairs to visit with Garrett and Margie and have breakfast. We had coffee and oatmeal with blueberries in it. Yum!

After a slow and wonderful breakfast with our hosts, we headed East along the Columbia River Gorge

We stopped and saw lots of beautiful waterfalls along the Gorge:

Riding out here is absolutely beautiful. Pine tree covered mountains, fantastic scenery, the downhills are amazing, the uphills are very hard, the really hard parts are still to come, and it’s a lot of fun. People are great- such fun to hang out with and learn about. Great everything! So we left our host’s home and followed the wonderful map and directions they had printed off for us to start. Went pretty well! We had lots and lots of long, slow climbs to start, and finally made it up to a scenic overlook of the river and mountains. Beautiful! Went down a ways and made it to Vista House (a neat house overlooking the city) and kept going down. Lots of down, with various waterfalls along the way. Marlamouth (or something that starts with an M) was the tallest and best I think. Tons of natural beauty. We kept going on our way, and got on and off little bike paths. These occasionally overlapped with the freeway. Before the first freeway, we stopped in Cascade Locks and got frozen custard at a roadside stand- so good!

Lunch at a spot in the woods, and a huge dam! Then down a historic stair case and past a salmon fishery.

A beautiful trail, some ice cream, a big hill, and we're in Hood River with kite-boarders everywhere

Our kind host drove us up to her (amazing!) house a few miles away (and a few thosuand feet uphill), where we watched the sunset and found an interesting bug

Kept going, got on the highway for 3 beautiful and scary miles—the worst was when we were turning right and there was a concrete wall and very narrow gravel filled shoulder there. Semi trucks= terrifying. Kept going. Stopped for many snack and drink breaks. Got a huge hill to climb, a nice man in a red truck told us when it was .3 from the top (he was following a random helicopter he saw), then asked us if we were Native American once we got to the bottom and drove off. We got back on the highway later for 6 easier miles (but one big gentle climb) and finally got to Hood River. Stopped at McD for cheeseburgers on the way in, then met Erica, our next host, when we got to the beach. There were lots of people kite surfing and playing in the water. We joined the people she was hanging with and got dinner from a food cart and hung out. Great! Lots of interesting, nice people. Went back with Erica to her place up many giant hills, got ice cream on the way, and then settled in. Showered, unpacked, drank OJ and vodka and sparkling water, chatted, saw stars, and ate ice cream with strawberries and chocolate on it. So good! Did route planning and emailing, then had another late night. This house is awesome- wood, amazing view of Mt. St. Helens (maybe?), beautiful sunsets, ornate and vintage dcor- so cool. Erica is 41 year old firefighter in Portland. She has travelled all over and seen so many neat things- it was wonderful chatting with her!

Day 5: 7 Jun Sun

bike from Hood River, OR to Mary Hill State Park (47 miles, 2300 feet of climbing)

Hot. Made it to Maryhill State Park. Hot and tired still. Got up today at 7, and had Mexican breakfast burritos and yogurt for breakfast. So delicious. Rode 8 miles downhill (See elevation profile!!) from Erica’s house where we stopped in town for groceries and for Steven to submit house signing paperwork stuff.

Today had a lot of gentle rolling hills along the river, and we followed the railroad tracks too. It was a hot day!

Rode out of White Salmon and had a great ride. Some hills, mostly mild. Stopped at a place for shade and water, for cherries (yum!), and it got very hot and deserty fast. Sun beating down, heat from road- rough riding because of the heat. Made it to just by Wortham (?) Heights on 14 and it was so hot we took a break in some shade and took an hour nap. Kept going for a while, then eventually stopped at a winery to fill water and cool off. We hung out there for over an hour, and finally got some smoked cheddar cheese and kept going.

First flat (I think?) just a short distance from Maryhill State Park, but got it fixed and settled in for our first night of camping. Spaghetti and summer sausage!

Day 6: 8 Jun Mon

bike from Mary Hill State Park to Crow Butte SP (57 miles, 2100 feet of climbing)

Got up at 5:15. Packed up camp and filled up waters. Right before we left, Steven realized his front tire was flat so we changed it and then were off. Set up the 3.5 mile climb up the hill and back to 14. Made it. Passed lots of orchards on the way. Travelled on 14 a long time, making good time and going pretty fast. It was relatively cool in the morning. Stopped around 10:30 at a Mini Mart in Roosevelt, and got chips and Steven got Gatorade. Used the bathroom and filled up waters, which really needed it. The cool water and chips were very encouraging as we continued. Steven’s front got another flat, and we stopped to change that out again, then ate some of the BBQ chips. Kept going, and it kept getting hotter and hotter. Took lots of quick breaks to rest our legs and cool off from the heat.

So, Eastern Washington is a DESERT! it was very hot and dry out there, with almost no shade. Beautiful, too

We took breaks in the sparse shade, and drank a TON of water (1-2 L / hr). Quick phone call while hydrating and resting in the shade at a winery:

Arriving at Crow Butte SP was so good, and we took a great swim and saw a cool snake.

Came around a bend after a climb and saw this oasis of a thing across the water- Crow Butte! Kept going the last 3/4/5 miles into the park and on our way. We ditched our bikes at the site, put on swimsuits, and got in the river. Steven talked to Mom about house stuff and route stuff. It felt so good—such a relief from the heat. Made spaghetti and sauce and sausage for afternoon lunch/dinner. Relaxed and cleaned up lunch dishes, then got back in the river for a second time. After that, talked on the phone with Adam. Napped for a while on the picnic table/benches amidst the flies and bugs (ugh) and finally got back in the water for the last time. Cooling off is great. Split a bagel with PB for dinner, got the tent ready, showered, and got to bed. Hot day, another hot day tomorrow.

Day 7: 9 Jun Tue

bike from Crow Butte SP to Walla Walla, WA (86 miles, 3100 feet of climbing)

Headed out very early from Crow Butte to avoid some of the heat. Hit some road tar, invented a new dance, and saw some geology:

Got up at 4:30 and packed up the tent and gear. Got set to go. Steven had an apple and did sunscreen before we left, and we got on the road. It was a beautiful bright sunny morning. We went on 14 for a long while till we came to the 82 bridge, which fortunately was under construction and we got (most of the time) a lane to ourselves. Stopped in Umatilla for a water fill up before heading on 7:30. We went for a while, till we came to some road construction. Got to a 1 lane part, and we went behind the traffic till they started sending traffic in the other direction. Yikes. We got into the other lane, which seemed fine, when actually it was tarry and sticky. We left the construction zone and stopped to discover my tires were now covered in tar with a layer of gravel and grit around them. We tried to use the rag to get it off- didn’t work. Ended up using my tennis shoe sole to rub off the sticky stuff (mostly successfully). Had to wipe it a couple more times to get the stuck rocks off, but otherwise good. Somewhere on 730 Steven’s back got a flat, and his cap converter thing was stuck to hi tube. We spent an hour trying to pry it off, and then gave up and used duct tape to make a new stem to an old patched tube.

[ed's note: that patched tire with the duct tape nozzle is still working, in late August]

The basalt pillars are the Twin Sisters formation; later, we saw so many birds living in holes in other rocks!

Kept going, turned onto 12 where we ate lunch behind this weigh station in the shade. Kept going, and stopped in an RV park maybe for water where I had a back flat. Changed it quickly, then got back on the way. Stopped at a gas station for water and nachos and Steven got Gatorade. Yummmmm! Kept going and only had 18/20 miles left. Stopped and checked with our host, then kept riding into town. Met him pulled over on the side of the road, and he gave us directions to his house. We messed up, but saw him in the Safeway lot, and he led us back to his house. We unloaded bikes, then showered and had watermelon and cantaloupe. So good after riding. They made pizza for dinner with pepperoni, squash/zucchini, onion, mushroom, green pepper,-- so good. We watched Pitch Perfect, which was funny, and then said goodnight and went down to route plan. Figured some things out for the next couple days, wrote in my journal, and went to bed. Bob and Emma are our hosts- he works in a juice plant, she’s from the Philippines. Dog named Millie, who looks almost like Harley, playing fetch. So great to be here in the cool.

Arrived at to our hosts' house in Walla Walla a bit sweaty and worn out, but Bob and Emma made us pizza and happy!

Day 8: 10 Jun Wed

bike from Walla Walla, WA to Dayton, WA (28 miles, 1400 feet of climbing)

This was our first "rest day", in which we only planned to go 20 or 30 miles, and it was pretty nice.

Steven spent the morning working on his dissertation revisions, and we stocked up on spare bike parts (some tubes and a tire, just in case)

Slept in- felt great. Had pancakes for breakfast and fruit. Delicious! So overwhelmed by Bob and Emma’s generosity. Hung out and chatted over breakfast, played with Millie in the backyard, walked to the bike shop, and got tubes and valve converter thing and hung out while Steven did his thesis business. So fun, so relaxing, great to let the legs rest. 30 mile day ahead- it’s our rest day. Made it to Dayton today no problem, so easy. Left Bob and Emma’s around 12:30 or 1:00, stopped at the bike shop again to swap out a tube I got the wrong size and got a spare tire. Went to the grocery next, and stocked up, ate a yummy chocolate muffin from Bob (and more fruit and poptarts), then went 10 miles to Davis. We took a ten minute break for a snack and to write a postcard to Adam.

Emily and our host's dog, Steven and Bob, and leaving Walla Walla

Beautiful hillsides:

Kept going 10 miles (little climb) to Waitsburg where we met another touring cyclist, James, at a park. PhD professor in sociology from Calgary going from to San Francisco. Cool to swap routes and stories and such and then continued on our way the last 10 miles to Dayton where we met our hosts Genie and Fred for the night. She showed us in and we showered and cooled off for a bit, then went up to chat. Had a beer for a little, and then visited before a delicious dinner of chili, cornbread, and cabbage salad. We talked about astronomy and such, then Fred showed us a bunch of his neat pottery he made- big vase and platters and other neat inspirations. He has 2 kilns and all kinds of clay and glazes outside behind his house in a studio- fantastic! We saw their huge garden and many fruit trees behind the house which was really cool. Sat on the porch and had homemade strawberry sorbet with almond slices on top, saw hummingbirds and deer, and chatted some more. Really interesting histories- Fred is a plant disease specialist, Genie studied farming subsidization maybe? Both agriculture and interesting and well educated. Steven fixed their telescope for them which is cool, and my eye started doing this funny thing watering and irritated. Planning on breakfast at 6 and be on the road by 7.

Settled in at our hosts' lovely house and getting out their telescope later....

Day 9: 11 Jun Thu

bike from Dayton, WA to Lewiston, ID (80 miles, 3900 feet of climbing)

After a wonderful breakfast (at 6am!) on the front porch with our host, we headed east

Got up this morning around 5:30. Went and got loaded and packed, then went up and said good morning to Genie. She had made breakfast- eggs with bacon, cheese, and basil, toast, fruit salad with mint, and yogurt with granola. So good. We finished packing up, realized Steven follows her daughter’s blog, and went on our way right around 7.

we saw evidence of old wagon ruts from the Oregon Trail! and got a great view from 2785 feet before descending to the Snake River.

Had a great cool start in through Dayton (wet street from street cleaners), and up out of town. Met some construction which this time wasn’t too bad. Meant bunches of cars at a time would pass us later, and then no one for a long while. Today was a day of long, slow climbs and longer fast downhills. Steep grades. 1st one= 3 miles, made it to Pomeroy around lunch time and had my chocolate muffin and then some trail mix. Steven wrote and sent some postcards. Very nice city park with bathrooms and fountains. Left town and before all the way out, Steven’s back got a fat. Fixed it in front of a grain silo in the shade, then kept going. Headed up one more steep long climb, but going down we went for 5 miles, steep grade, and about 20 total more mostly coasting. Got near Clarkston, and came to river—pretty—and passed another cyclist. Rode into the town and called our host to let them know. Shortly after, I got a flat in my back, which we packed and kept going. Stopped at a park nearby the river for a snack, then rode bike trails through parks along the Snake River. Continued till Asotin. Then took the road back another 6/7 miles to the Benner home.

Our hosts had a beautiful house along the Snake River, and gave us the run of their guest house. Amazing views and great place!

Fantastic home. Where we’re staying is the guest lodge house/rental house. Has billiard room, exercise room, family room with bar, 2 bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom, and nice private deck. The deck and back of the house overlook the river, and the view is spectacular. Showered, called Adam with broken cell reception, and Steven called Amanda. We soon went down to chat with the family- Teresa owns bakery/restaurant, and son Carson just finished 5th grade. Very well spoken, comfortable young man. Had spaghetti and chicken and salad for dinner, then did some mapping/routing/emails and ate some fresh picked raspberries. Saw a ram up on the hill across the river, and watched tons of boats cross. Came back, journaled, and fell asleep.

Day 10: 12 Jun Fri

bike from Lewiston, ID to Long Camp RV Park (81 miles, 4500 feet of climbing)

Woke up around 6 after a great night of sleep. Started getting things together and packing up, and after carrying down all my stuff, realized my back tire was flat. So, got things together, and Steven mostly changed the tire. Got loaded up, had some yummy coffee with creamer, and picked bing cherries off their cherry tree before heading out.

Before leaving, our kind host insisted we pick cherries from the tree in their front yard! we also stopped by their bakery in Asotin (Daily Bakery) for yummy breakfast: a breakfast sandwich on a croissant and a chocolate frosted custard filled donut. So good and so filling.

We continued along the Snake (and later, the Lochsa) River, and entered Idaho!

Went from there on mostly bike paths into Clarkston, where we found a Walmart and stocked up on camping food. Left and crossed the bridge into Idaho, and meandered along busy roads and not great bike paths. Took some cherry breaks, sunscreen breaks, and a great pb bagel break by the river in a shelter with pencil shaving water. Kept on, and my left knee started hurting weirdly in addition to some other major seat pain. Ended up making it to Kamiah, just past, to the Long RV Park where we set up the tent, made spaghetti for dinner. Hung out, cleaned up dishes, checked the wifi, texted Adam, and journaled. Pretty good day.

Arrived at Long Camp RV park and camped right near the river for the night:

Day 11: 13 Jun Sat

bike from Long Camp RV Park to Wendover Camp (90 miles, 5400 feet of climbing)

Got up around 6:45 and started to pack up camp and make oatmeal Finished getting ready and left just before 8:00. There was a flea market/farmers market at our RV park in the morning. Hit the road and my knee was still bugging me. Took a motrin and that helped some. Some time later as we were stopped for some sunscreen and trail mix, another touring cyclist stopped and said hello, and ended up riding with us the rest of the day.

Up we go, getting closer to Lolo Pass. Increasingly small rivers, and a new riding friend along the way.

We kept on riding, knee feeling a bit better from the drugs, and stopped around 11:15 for lunch and sunscreen at a Caf where we filled up water, continued on, seeing a deer, some baby ducks, and lots of rafters heading down the river. Climbed all day with very little coasting, which made for a pretty exhausting day. Stopped lots for bottom breaks and snack breaks, and the bees were terrible! So annoying, but didn’t actually sting us ever. Filled up water again at another campground, then kept going. We were hoping to stop at Jerry Johnson, but it was closed, so we went all the way to Wendover Park Campground with pit pots and no water. $14. New friend still with us. Set up camp, made spaghetti and sausage with music playing. Hung out, changed, Steven and he stretched, and basically went to bed. Long biking day, and big climb tomorrow, but Missoula here we come! Dave was his name.

Arriving at a campsite in the state forest Wendover Camping area, without water available but also no trouble with bears!

Day 12: 14 Jun Sun

bike from Wendover Camp to Missoula, MT (60 miles, 3900 feet of climbing)

Got up this morning after sleeping about an hour past our alarm. It was cold! Bathroom and changed, made oatmeal for breakfast, and Dave was on his way. We packed up camp, and took off shortly later ourselves, heading into Powell where we met another cyclist with a British accent who is heading down the mountain, and then Dave again. We filled up, then headed up up up up. Climbed lots, stopped for lots of breaks, and eventually made it to 1 mile before the pass. Dave caught up, and we rode the last mile up almost together. Made it to the Ranger Station, Montana/Idaho border and it was great. Rested there for a long time, waiting. Tried to call Mom on a payphone, but it didn’t work right.

Got an early start to cross Lolo Pass, with many beautiful views! on to Montana, and "all downhill"

Kept biking down, and it was great. A little bit of headwind, strong at times, but with enough stops and breaks made it into Lolo and stopped at McD for burgers and internet. Went just a bit further into Missoula and stopped at Walmart for groceries. Got it, but forgot sunscreen and bagels. Alas.

Coming down into Missoula we were met by our WS host who made a great dinner! we also did laundry

Went on, and Ethel met us on our way to lead us to her place. Arrived at a cute, cozy home and parked our bikes in the garage. Carried our things downstairs, and then showered and got unpacked, and ran a load of laundry. Went up for dinner, and had a wonderful dinner outside of salad, rolls, spaghetti, and meat sauce with Moose Drool beer. Then we had vanilla ice cream with fresh last year’s raspberries on top. Chatted- Ethel has biked all over France and Europe and US- so amazing. Takes solo trips by herself. Also met Ava from Switzerland today at Lolo pass travelling by herself. Ethel was incredibly kind and generous. We helped clean up dishes and hung laundry up to dry outside. Ethel’s dog- Leela- so cute! Rode in Ethel’s bag when she rode out to us. Cuddled up while we were emailing and route planning after dinner. Growled if you stopped petting her. Yorkshire Terrier maybe? Finished routes/emails, and then called Adam and chatted for a bit.

Day 13: 15 Jun Mon

bike from Missoula, MT to Ogden Nevada Camp (70 miles, 3500 feet of climbing)

Woke up in Ethel’s house. Great nights sleep, actually slept in a bit. Packed up, then went up and had oatmeal, cantaloupe, and yogurt with raspberries for breakfast. Finished packing, then shoved off around just before 9.

Said goodbye to our host (and her dog) and stopped by American Adventure Cycling headquarters downtown (free ice cream!)

Went into Missoula- got sunscreen from a Grizzly Grocery and got a bread breakfast thing from Great Harvest. Kept going, and made it to Adventure Cycling. Got a tour from ? and saw the headquarters. Signed up for a free 6 month membership, got our pics taken, and met another cyclist and his dog there. Got ice cream (drumsticks) but still delicious. Left there and stopped at another grocery for bagels, then headed out of town. Headwind was very strong and very discouraging. Met a cyclist who was just coming into Missoula, and he cautioned us about the wind. Alas- it was hard and terrible and very slow going compared to normal. My knee hurt and my right leg started hurting too. We stopped at a gas station 13 miles before Oveda and got chips and filled water. Kept pushing on with Steven as a wind block, and that made a huge difference.

The ride had long rolling hills with beautiful views of Big Sky Country! Friendly towns offered camping but we pushed on further to a spot in the forest for the night.

Went a while, still, into the wind, and ended up stopping at a Forest Access just shy of 70 miles instead of the 86 we were planning on. Boo. Legs really sore. Made riceroni and tuna for dinner- actually good despite the mosquitoes by the drove. In the woods.

Day 14: 16 Jun Tue

bike from Ogden Nevada Camp to Great Falls, MT (104 miles, 3800 feet of climbing)

Got up at 6:30 in the woods. The bird sounds were absolutely fantastic. Packed up camp quick, ate a banana, then hit the road at 7:15. Had a great cold starting ride to Lincoln passing 2 cyclists from WI doing the continental divide trail. Stopped at a gas station for water, Steven got coffee, and we made oatmeal with their hot water. The possibly first place female was at the gas station eating there too and not wanting to make conversation. Left there and did pretty good, climbing some and going up up up to the continental divide.

Crossed the continental divide today! then descended through beautiful Montana.

We came down into a small town and then hit a ton of huge rolling hills. We saw a thunderstorm (well, 2) behind us that was really cool to see across the open plains. Pushed the pace, but still didn’t have a great average in the end. My legs were hurting so much. Wore us out! Made it to our host’s house by 8:45. Took a long beautiful windy, hilly, road to get there. John and Kristnen Juras- had 3 boys. One is music teacher—K-12. Main instrument trumpet. Very welcoming, homey couple. John is civil engineer, Kristen is attorney running for a position on the state supreme court. Very friendly, and they have to get up early. Shower felt awesome, we had rice and BBQ pork for dinner with steamed veggies, cucumber salad, and then ice cream with lots of candy on it for dessert. So good. And had a bottle of apple cider ale while Steven had beer. Planned some maps, and went to bed. So tired.

Our hosts for the night were right along the Missouri River! very exciting.

Day 15: 17 Jun Wed

bike from Great Falls, MT to Belt, MT (50 miles, 1600 feet of climbing)

This was supposed to be our "rest day", but ended up being the hardest day of the trip (for unexpected reasons).....

Got up at 7:00 went to the bathroom. Did not a whole lot. Went to check on Steven around 7:30 and he was up but wanted to sleep more. Went back to sleep till 8:30, then 9:30, then 10:30. Guess I was tired. Finally got up and started packing things up. Kristen got home with a boy named Jacob. Seems like they care a lot about different people.

Started out with a beautiful (slow!) morning at our host's, and a trip to the post office (lightening our load)

Left there around 11 and then got on our way. Took a Clif Bar Break, and rode into Great Falls. Stopped at a McD around noon and got cheeseburgers and a frappe for me and iced coffee for Steven. Left McD and rode to the grocery. Got bananas and ramen and tuna, then got a Little Caesars Pizza for second lunch. Rode on after sunscreening, and then stopped at the Post Office. Mailed back 8 pounds of stuff- for me jeans, shorts, nice shirt, bike tubes with holes, and 2 safety vests.

Left town for real, got about 9 miles out, and Steven broke a spoke in his back tire. Called Adam to find a bike shop, which unfortunately were all back in Great Falls. We headed back, made it to one, which closed at 6, and they said they didn’t have time to do it tonight. Went to Scheels where the guy started working on it and we sat outside where we ate Ramen and tuna with hot water from the coffee machine. Never have I felt more like a homeless person in my life.

A broken spoke later and we were backtracking and cooking dinner in a strip mall parking lot. (not bottomed out yet)

Beautiful sunset and weird antenna thing

Then we biked way too late past dark through the densest swarms of mosquitos I've ever encountered, on a dirt road under construction with scary trucks and an extra 5 miles that we didn't expect. Let's not talk any more about that. We got to a campground in Belt, showered, and went to sleep.

Emily writes:

Left, and was doing fine, expect my knee was hurting some. We had to push to beat the darkness, and we made it about 2/3 of the way when we hit construction. Up till then, any time we stopped, the mosquitos came. In the construction, it was very bumpy and rocky for about 5 miles terrible. Road was barely wide enough for 2 cars, which made it not fun when having traffic. And worst, there were mosquito swarms getting you as you rode. I have so many bites all over, plus 4/5 on my right ear alone for some reason. Getting dark, need to keep going, can’t go cause the road is terrible, my knee is hurting, and the mosquitos are swarming. Made it somehow to the turn into Belt, and rode down down down through downtown where people yelled hello. We went down the wrong road, asked some folks, got back in the right direction, and the 2 people who yelled stopped by us on the road to help us find our way. At last, we made it to the campground where we set up and Steven showered. While he showered, I called Adam which was so good to talk to him. Showered myself, and now bed.

Day 16: 18 Jun Thu

bike from Belt, MT to Lewistown, MT (91 miles, 3200 feet of climbing)

Another late night. Woke up this morning to a guy saying- hey tent people, you need to come register around 6:45. Got up work up, and went to pay $19 for a tent site. Came back, packed up camp, talked to a British guy next door on a motorcycle who was telling us about leading tours in Mauritania. So funny. Got ready to go, and got some snacks from the office for breakfast.

We left our campsite in Belt, passed a weird military compound, and saw a moose!!

Here's a video of the moose running!

Headed out, hooked up with the highway 200 again, and hit a pretty strong headwind. Fought on, and even saw a moose as we were riding come down a hill to the left, cross the road, and run up hills to the right. Very cool. Fast! Jumping over fences.

Continued on, stopping in various places for snacks and such. Stopped in Stanford around 1:30 and got ice cream (huckleberry and chocolate coffee). Hit the restroom and carried on, the winds not too bad. Proceeded through and by some really small towns, stopping by a grain cylinder to eat bagels and then call Amanda.

We had more big sky, a stop for ice cream, lunch under a grain silo, and a close call with a thunderstorm

I went on to Eddie’s corner and we filled water and checked on the storms that looked to be rolling in behind us. They missed us completely, and we made pretty good time as we headed into town. Went to Ruby’s to get 100% Montana beef burgers and fries for dinner (so good). I got the cowboy burger with BBQ sauce, grilled onions, and cheese. Left there and went to the grocery to stock up,

Then, we got groceries and burgers for dinner in Lewistown: (and were asked if we had been swimming)

We had a beautiful sunset during the final ascent to our hosts' house (they passed us on the road and said hi)

Then we went on our way to our hosts’ home. Leaving town we had one last great climb up to their house, and Kathy met us in their truck at the top of their driveway. They have 1500 acres, seen lots of bears on their property, and have tons of cows. The cows had to move out of the way for the truck- so funny. Got down where we saw their 2 huge dogs (Zeus and Blitz). Also- saw them driving home on our way out of town- too funny! We each got our own room (so nice!) and my bed is so comfy. We showered and pretty much just went right to bed. Goodnight.

They are ranchers/farmers and we had so much fun talking to them about normal daily life out there!

Day 17: 19 Jun Fri

bike from Lewistown, MT to Winnet, MT (46 miles, 370 feet of climbing)

We had another slow morning while Steven did more dissertation revisions, and avoided riding in the morning rain.

Got up around 8. Got ready for the day. Packed up sleeping stuff and went up for breakfast. Got the recipe for some really good egg thing made in a cast iron skillet in the oven. Yum! Had that and sausage and bacon and fruit with coffee for breakfast. It was really cool talking about cows, grazing, pigs, chickens, wildlife (they have lots of elk, some bear, others). They have lots of cows, and calf in April, sell in fall. Also have hay fields. Took time lapse pics of dead cow getting eaten- magpies, skunk, wolves, foxes, eventually bears! Cool to hear their story about meeting through pig farming and random circumstances- newspaper articles. Hunters- deer heads on walls, elk horns on garage. 2 huge dogs—120 lbs Blitz is theirs, Zeus is their daughter’s dog. Becky and Mel are so friendly and nice. Looks like rain outside!

Trying to make it to Mosby before dark. Made it to Winnett. Packed up the gear in the afternoon, then it started raining again, so we stayed and had tuna salad sandwiches, carrots, grapes, cherries, and chips with homemade salsa for lunch. So nice. We chatted about teaching and their daughter Katie left. Talked about cycling some and had a great visit over lunch. Took a picture before we left, then hit the road.

We said goodbye to our hosts (and their huge dogs) and headed out from their beautiful house

After an uneventful (and short-ish) day of riding, we talked to some folks in Winnet who said it was ok to sleep in the city park! how nice

It was all basically downhill, with a nice tailwind or no wind. Great fast riding. We were not as fast as we hoped, and we couldn’t stop much because of the mosquitos. Went through a couple small towns before stopping at Winnett. I wanted to keep going 22 miles to Mosby, but Steven didn’t want to get stuck in the dark. We went into town and stopped at the Happy Heifer Bar and Grill where we had a beer and sat at the bar. A group of people asked us where we were headed, then we got a White Ale Beer from the brewery in belt. Talked to the bartender, and he asked if we were moving on or what tonight. He said- there’s a park 2 blocks down the road you can camp in. So we finished the beer and walked down to find the park. It’s a little city park with 2 picnic tables, a few small swings, a merry go round, and a tunnel thing- right next to the city pool. Cooked some ramen and tuna dinner, did dishes, set up camp, then went to bed around 9:30. Hopefully no one is mad we are staying in their park! It’s probably fine.

Day 18: 20 Jun Sat

bike from Winnet, MT to a rest area (112 miles, 4100 feet of climbing)

Got up at 5ish, then had oatmeal for breakfast while packing up and heading out.

With an early start, we headed east on a long day to reach a rest stop at a particular junction which we had heard was pretty nice.

Long rolling hills and interesting geology all day

You can see all the rolling hills ahead

Met 2 cyclists from Iowa who were heading West to Seaside and started in Glendive. We stopped at Mosby at the rest stop and filled water and used the bathroom. Made it to Sand Springs around 11:15 and Steven talked to Amanda for an hour. The Post Office is the store, and they had ice

cream bars for 75 cents, so I got one. Used the bathroom, put on sunscreen, and left around 12:45. Stopped in Jordan and got water at a grocery store along with a donut, salad, and beef jerky. Talked to a lady with a dog outside who was interesting.

We stopped in a pretty cool dinosaur museum in the county (Garfield, MT) where T-rex was first discovered!

Continued on and stopped at the free dinosaur museum for Garfield County and saw some bike triceratops bones and more. Ate donut and put on sunscreen. Lots of hills, tiring last 35 miles. Nothing too crazy- saw cool rock formations, tons of roadkill bunnies, and had some snacks. Made it to the rest stop at 200 and 24. Made rice and chicken dinner, made cherry cake dessert, talked to mom and dad, and called Adam to do bike business and talk. Steven did dishes, sink showered and went to bed. I sink showered too, shortly after him, and went to bed not much later. Right in the lights of the rest stop. Too funny.

We got to the promised rest area for the night, and it was indeed pretty nice, plaque notwithstanding (is it difficult???)

Day 19: 21 Jun Sun

bike from a rest area to Glendive, MT (78 miles, 1600 feet of climbing)

Woke up at the rest area around 6:30/6:45 to a warm tent with weird cow noises. Opened windows, heard the cleaning lady talking and smoking. Waited till she left, then got up and made oatmeal and packed up camp. Left right around 8:00. Had pretty good wind, and hit right away some hills like yesterday. Steven was tired, and we took lots of breaks.

Fairly typical day. Many rolling hills, weird dinosaur stuff, a brief intense storm, and a tiny patch of rainbow.

Made it to Circle by 11:00/11:15 and stopped at a gas station for water. Good water! Finally! It tasted and felt so good after sulfur water blah. Left there and immediately hit head winds, which knocked our speed from 15-18 to 8/9. It looked like sprinkles and felt like rain. Looked bad, so we went into Lindsay and took shelter in a nice older lady’s garage for about 20 minutes while it rained and passed by. Kept going into a nice strong head wind, but kept a decent pace. We stopped for breaks here and there, and it was pretty flat. Made it into the city, and found our host’s house. Put our bikes in their carport and went inside. Had some cantaloupe and water while we chatted for a few, and pet their golden dog Wrigley and Bichon Fraise Yeager. Cute! Steven showered, and I got to see their land by the river. Then I showered and soon it was time to eat. We had very good spaghetti with meat sauce and corn and garlic bread. Yum! Ate plenty! After dinner, we cleaned up a little, then drove around town. We saw the dinosaur museum with dino head sticking out, rail yard, new housing developments, where oil boom workers live, river, Makanshikan park from a distance (badlands like), cemetery hill view of the town, and then came back. It was neat to see the town and hear the local perspective. We came back, had a drumstick ice cream cone, then watched a little weather channel while we did our laundry. Switched to the drier, then went up to route plan and to bed. Very nice couple. Mary is counselor (was at school, now private practice), and a prison like rehab center. Joe works in the rail yard in town. Have 3 kids- 2 girls and a boy- and 2 grandkids (boy 6 and girl). Very nice, welcoming people. Learned a lot about the oil boom just north of them. Pet their dogs a lot. Hung out a little more. Then came up. Planned our next couple days of routes, then journaled till I fell asleep and went to bed. Goodnight!!

Our hosts' house in Glendive was right on the Yellowstone River. They had two friendly dogs, too:

Day 20: 22 Jun Mon

bike from Glendive, MT to Medora, ND (66 miles, 2100 feet of climbing)

Woke up today in our host’s house around 7:45. So nice to sleep in some. Got up, packed up some things, and then ate breakfast of cinnamon raisin bagels with cream cheese, yogurt, and cantaloupe. Yum! Steven did some plane ticket thing, then we packed up our stuff, wrote a note, and took pictures. Rode to grocery for sunscreen and trail mix stuff, then headed out of town.

After a taste of a Swiss Brat, we had lots more big sky riding and entered North Dakota (finally!)

Almost immediately after arriving in North Dakota, we had a lunch (second lunch?), and later met a friendly German cyclist, before finishing our ride to Medora campground.

Soon stopped at a bar for a Swiss Brat- 1.5 brats, halved on rye with sauerkraut and Swiss cheese. Yum! Left there and got on the interstate for a bit, which wasn’t bad, but pretty gritty. Got off the first exit onto a road that was fine, but really bumpy. Bumpy bump. Got a break to have bagels, and then got back on the interstate for a while. Met a cyclists from Iowa whose wife was following along in a camper and he was riding to seaside as well. Chatted for a few, then he kept going. Got off the interstate at Beach, and stopped in town at a nice caf. Steven got a steak sandwich with sweet potato waffle fries, and I got onion rings and pb choc ice cream. Yum. Used the wifi to send some emails and Steven did some thesis revision. Left there and headed out of town. At a stop sign, some nice guy warned us it was a 13 mile road in a dead end. Went the right way on some really awesome roads with a great tail wind. About midway, we met another cyclist, Manuel, from Hamburg Germany who was basically doing our trip in reverse. Talked for a while about routes and cycling in Germany, and he was on a recumbent. Shared blogs. Kept going- saw a buck cross the road and got a train to whistle at me! Rode rode rode, stopping for a brief trial mix break before getting back on the interstate for 1 mile, getting off at Medora exit. Hopped on a bike path and rode that right into Medora Campground. Nice, busy place- lots of people and got checked in like at a KOA. Set up camp, made ramen and tuna, looked at ferry vs non-ferry routes, and talked with Adam. Steven showered, and I finished chatting with Adam, then showered and went to bed.

Day 21: 23 Jun Tue

bike from Medora, ND to Taylor, ND (56 miles, 2000 feet of climbing)

Got up today in Medora Campground. Bathroom, made oatmeal, packed up camp, and Steven checked email up by the office. Headed into town and got some disappointing cookies after hearing about cookies from the German man- guess we didn’t find them. Did some emails and feedback, and then continued. Got on the highway for a bit, my back tire had a real slow flat that we fixed, then kept going.

Biking across North Dakota is beautiful, and a surprise Ukrainian cultural center!

Some frozen perogi, a little rain, and a city park is our camp for the night:

Stopped after a good ride in Dickinson at a Ukrainian Culture Center, then got Little Caesars pizza, which I ate mostly. Steven called Amanda, and a storm was moving in. We went to the grocery for a couple things, then the post office for Steven. Left town, and got maybe 5 miles, when it started looking like rain soon, so we went on someone’s porch who wasn’t home. Someone else was there waiting for them, and they said it was fine if we waited. Mostly sat for a long time. Lots of lightning and thunder. Around 5:45 left the porch and rode to Taylor. It was sprinkling some, and dark behind us, so we stopped in a community picnic shelter from the rain with flush bathrooms and paper towels! Made perogi, cottage cheese buttons, for dinner. Cleaned up, set up our tent under the shelter, and now it’s bedtime. Early to bed with getting to Bismarck tomorrow. Saw a beautiful rainbow while we were eating—awesome!!

While cooking dinner, the rain passed and a huge rainbow appeared for almost an hour!

Day 22: 24 Jun Wed

bike from Taylor, ND to Bismarck, ND (87 miles, 2100 feet of climbing)

Back on the road in North Dakota. A break from the rain. Back on the road.

Central time now (maybe the first day?). Woke up in the lovely community park, packed up, ate a quick oatmeal breakfast, and got on the road by 6:15. Left town and were moving great, stopping briefly here and there. Stopped in Hebron and Steven got a cinnamon roll and coffee. Kept going. It was cloudy and chilly. Got to Glen Ullum, when the storms behind looked not great and Steven wanted to stop in a shelter in town. Waited 45 minutes—no storm, just little sprinkles here and there. Steven went across the street in a different shelter, and 2 caf workers at Doc’s bar invited Steven in for coffee. I eventually went in, too, got free coffee from the nice bartender who said if we didn’t drink it, he’d just end up drinking it all anyways. It was pretty cold outside, so it felt great. We ended up ordering burgers and fries there for lunch. Used the wifi for a couple things, then the weather looked good and we left.

Made decent time – more headwind now. Got going, pretty normal. Some hills, but pretty flat. Rode hard till 5:00 when we called our hosts at 17 miles out. Made it quickly through the miles. Met cyclists Tom and Jerry from Flint, MI going transam to Seaside/Astoria. Cool. Been at it since May. Nuts. Kept going, made our way into town and hopped on a bike path at some point. Crossed the Missouri River (huge), and soon made it to our host’s home 10 minutes before. Early! Put our bikes in their backyard, unloaded gear to their basement and showered. Went upstairs, chatted some, ate a yummy dinner with spaghetti and sauce infused with all kinds of sauted vegetables and salad with lemonade. Carol is vice president of Utica College and Steve was teacher first then something else- furniture maker. Daughter is dance and friend Mr. Adam was staying there, too. Funny guy. Came home from bowling. Had a lovely dinner chat. Then, Steve drove us around town to see the main downtown area and get a pillow from their daughter’s house. “Oh no- they locked the front door! They never do that! I’ll try the back.” Saw their government building that is tall on a hill, and came back. Chatted more, helped with dishes, Steven helped get their tandem into the basement. Went downstairs, and Steven went to bed. Talked to Adam on the phone, and then went to bed.

After dinner at our hosts' house in Bismarck, they gave us a tour of town (in a car!)

Day 23: 25 Jun Thu

bike from Bismarck, ND to Napoleon, ND (73 miles, 1600 feet of climbing)

Leaving our hosts' house (in particular positions) and heading south and east

Woke up in our host’s house. Great sleep. Packed up stuff before breakfast, and went up and had coffee, eggs, toast with homemade cranberry jam and peanut butter, cantaloupe, and tomato juice. Hit the road a little after 8 and headed out of town. Left and were going strong. Stopped for a clif bar at Mary College. Met a cyclist who was doing a nearly similar route—wearing tennis shoes! Talked, and then we leap frogged down the road. We stopped in Moffit for pb bagels and sunscreen by the cemetery in Moffit. Saw little tiny cacti and hoped they didn’t poke my tire (which they might have). Biked farther till we made it to Hazelton, where there was a gas station. Got some awesome small cheesy bread, and then got a small vanilla soft serve cone that I got to make. Our cyclist friend we saw earlier was there too and got a pizza. We also passed another cyclist going the opposite direction who tipped his helmet at us as we passed. Met a very excited guy in a car with a kayak on top who was looking at some run down shack and wondering what had become of it. He told us excitedly about his backpacking stories and adventures in Alaska, carrying sheep and an 85 lb pack down the mountain. Funny and very excited guy. “I’m not medicated or anything. I’m just excited. I’m not dangerous.” Too funny.

Bees! A family on a triple bike (with chase RV). Camping in a shelterhouse again, just in case

Realized I had a back flat right before we left. Took all the gear off, changed the tire- patched the hole under the weak spot and got on the road. Rode a while, fighting a decent headwind. Stopped and met a tricycle (well, 3 people on 1 bike), who were going DC to West Coast. Cool! Mom riding in RV with other kids. Rode rode, storm behind us, and made it at last to Napoleon where we found a $10 campground and made Ramen and Tuna for dinner. Moved stuff to the picnic shelter, took showers, and made it back to do dishes just as it was starting to rain. Raining now, supposed to rain and storm tonight. Set up tent under the shelter and it’s awesome. Hosts from last night—tandem accident on Pacific Coast trail. She had a shoulder replacement, he broke his collar bone. Yikes! We’re all settled in this nice dry place for the night. PS. Soda water in camelback= yuck. Soda water in Water bottles= spraying legs. Ha!

Day 24: 26 Jun Fri

bike from Napoleon, ND to Little Yellowstone Campground (98 miles, 1000 feet of climbing)

One of the most bizarre sights on the trip was this series of increasingly old farm equipment along a ridge line:

It's a thing! Epic collection of antique threshers

Continuing across ND, with big skies and some lakes, and camping at the Little Yellow River

Woke up in Napoleon around 6 and got up. Packed up camp, made oatmeal, and took off around 7:30. Stopped at a convenience store to get dinner food- Steven got corned beef hash, I got pasta shells and baked beans. Left town, and got on the road. Rode rode, taking snack breaks. We rode on, some hills, not too bad, and got to Gackle around 11:30. Went to the ice cream place, had bagels and pb, then got a med ice cream for $2. Woot! Went just outside of Gackle to another convenience store and got 2 ramen and oatmeal. Filled water, too. Headed out after sunscreen around 12:30. Rode great and fast because it was so flat. Great time, going quick, making good progress. Stopped for some trail mix, crackers, saw fields mostly that looked a lot like Ohio. Went past roads to many towns, but not through any towns really after Gackle. Steven forgot to strap his stuff down, and his bag fell off at one point. Too funny. Made it at long last to Little Yellowstone Park/Campground and came in for $15. Pit toilets- really not great. Made dinner- actually pretty good and very filling! Cleaned up dishes, moved to the big picnic shelter to stay dry, and there were lots of mosquitos. Journalled, listened to our neighbors play loud country music, and learned the river is pretty far away. Going to bed because the bugs are so bad.

Day 25: 27 Jun Sat

bike from Little Yellowstone Campground to Fargo, ND (72 miles, 460 feet of climbing)

Grain elevators and open spaces throughout ND, coming into Fargo today:

At our host's with traveling cyclist from Austria too!

Woke up in our tent around 6. Had oatmeal and packed up a little wet tent. Left right around 7. Climbed up a big hill to start, but otherwise a pretty flat day. Biked quick to Enderlin- got a donut with choc frosting and pretzels for lunch. Steven got combos and wheat things and donut and coffee. Left Enderlin. Stayed on 45 much of the way. Stopped around lunch time in Kindred- I stopped at a gas station with picnic tables and Steven went to school to wait. Talked to Adam on the phone, and Steven talked to Amanda. Went over to Steven, and while waiting, a nice guy in a pickup stopped by and dropped off 2 waters. So nice! Stopped into town. Stopped just inside at a gas station where we used the bathroom and Steven got coffee. Some nice folks we talked to in the parking lot came back 20 minutes later and told us about a campground that was in Moorhead if we didn’t have a place to stay. How nice! We left there, came more into town, and looked around at dinner stops. Steven wanted a Mongolian buffet, I wasn’t sure, so we went to Dan’s apartment. Called- no luck. Waited, and he rode up on his bike. Came in and another cyclist- Renada- from Austria, was actually staying the night too. Unloaded gear, showered, and hung out for a bit. Got a beer, and went out to see Dan’s bike collection- he has 10 bikes. Lots of fun. Came back, ate some delicious pasta, sauce, and vegetables. So good. After dinner, did dishes, took my bike computer off, talked about routes and maps, and pretty much hung out. It is great to be clean and inside. It thunderstormed while we were eating, but it’s done now. Going to be great to sleep inside!

Day 26: 28 Jun Sun

bike from Fargo, ND to Pelican Rapids, MN (64 miles, 1000 feet of climbing)

Crossing into Minnesota and entering what felt like vacation land for a while

Staying with amazing hosts in Pelican Rapids, right downtown! and near the giant pelican

Started at Dan’s this morning. Packed up things, had a quick breakfast of oatmeal with cranberries and raisins plus some good toast with sunflower butter. Hit the road and went to Walmart, but apparently they are closed until noon on Sundays. Kept going, ended up missing downtown, stopped at a smaller grocery store for food, left town, found a Kind bar, and kept going. Entered Minnesota with no sign or notice and soon put on sunscreen. Kept going, nothing too interesting. More hills today, saw 2 touring cyclists going in the other direction- looked like a young couple having a great time. Saw many day cyclists out for a Sunday afternoon ride and got a back flat that was weird. Steven helped me patch it, and we carried on. Got donuts at a grocery and also pop tarts and cookies- so good. Rode on a long ways. Stopped for a short shade break in someone’s front yard against a pole. Steven’s bike fell over. Kept going, stopped in Cormodant for a break. Had a bagel and pop-tart- Steven got a mini pizza. Called our hosts with an update, waited a bit, then headed off. Great day for biking- nice tailwind. Got to Pelican Rapids around 4:30. Checked in at our host’s- put our bikes in the storage shed, then went upstairs. They soon left for the night, and we showered and cleaned up. Got Mexican for dinner- chicken burrito with queso – yum! Walked to the Pelican in town—it was huge!!! Did some WS emails/requests, and went to bed.

Day 27: 29 Jun Mon

bike from Pelican Rapids, MN to Alexandria, MN (76 miles, 1700 feet of climbing)

Heading further SE on a smoky weirdly-lit day. Big Ole in Alexandria

Our lovely hosts' house just outside of town

Got up at host’s today- very hot in room. Got up, packed up, and waited for Steven. Packed up, loaded up, and left. Went across the street to a bakery and Steven got coffee and a cinnamon orange roll. I had half a bagel and the sky was really hazy and weird and the sun looked red. Very strange. Left town, making a few turns and riding not too bad. Plenty of hills, and the foggy cloudiness never really lifted. Made it to Fergus Falls where we went a little out of the way to go to Walmart. Got a new bike computer, water bottle holder, tubes, patch kit, bandanas, body wash, and sunscreen. Went to McD on the way back and got some yummy food. Talked to some people outside who asked where we were going. Then they say if you’re in such good shape, why are you eating at McDonalds. Called Bonnie, our host Mom for the night, and talked about their son- he was autistic and there were supposed to be 2 other cyclists staying there so he was nervous with so many people and she wanted to make sure all was good. Biked on, finding the trail and riding easy from small town to small town. Took a couple snack breaks as we went. Texted with Bonnie- actually other 2 cyclists not coming after all. Got to Alexandria—passing lots of lakes on a beautiful trail. Made it to Big Ole Park and called Jefferson to come and pick us up. He said he’s be there shortly, and we looked around and waited. Great kid- into computers and programming and taking a class at North Dakota university. Really great cheese Hawaiian pizza. Hung out- checked routes and maps and things for a long time. Talked with Steven a little. Got the new bike computer hooked up and ready to go!

Day 28: 30 Jun Tue

bike from Alexandria, MN to Wait Park, MN (67 miles, 900 feet of climbing)

Crossing the countryside, free lefse (yum!), and our host just outside St Cloud:

Late night. Got up around 6:45. Packed up and had chocolate mini mini-wheats for breakfast- so good! Packed up the van with Jefferson, and he drove us down into down at the statue where we ended yesterday. Unloaded, loaded up bikes, and headed off around 8. Went on the trail, moving right along, getting to Osakis around 9. Stopped in town, and Steven went into a Scandinavian bakery and got a Leftke?- which was potato dough rolled up with butter, cinnamon, and sugar inside. Yum! He shared it with me.  Stopped at pharmacy where Steven got some postcards. Stopped again at a gas station a bit later and went to the bathroom, had a snack, and fixed a back flat on mine. Boo- mystery. Went on, stopping in Freeport for a bagel, wheat thins, and pop-tarts. Helped a mom and girl fix a chain on their bike. Walked to gas station for water and Steven got a Butterfinger Cappuccino! Almost left town, and went to the other gas station where I got 21 ounces of mostly vanilla with a little butter pecan soft serve. Crazy good. And filling. Biked on, full but happy, and stopped in Avon for a quick bench nap and bathroom. Then pushed on to St. Joseph where the trail stopped. Got internet outside a coffee shop about to do some WS things, but Mom said they had friends we could stay with the following night. Went the rest of the way to Waite Park and got to Stephanie’s apartment around 6:15. Brought bikes upstairs, and came in, chatted, and showered. Had a wonderful veggie and egg frittata for dinner with bread and cherries. Talked about Prairie Home Companion, flute and music, biking stories. It was great! Had some stove popcorn later, and did some route planning/mapping for the next couple days. I got to video chat with Adam in the hallway for a little while for our anniversary, and came in to find my bed made and ready- aww! Cleaned up, journalled, and bed.

Day 29: 1 Jul Wed

bike from Wait Park, MN to Cottage Grove, MN (95 miles, 2300 feet of climbing)

Heading through the twin cities today, largely on bike paths! Emily's last flat, perhaps? Beautiful wildflowers

Crossing the Mississippi River:

Video of biking across the Mississippi River

and through more city bike paths to Macalster Campus

Video of bagpipers and drummers at Macalster College

Inside the physical sciences building, and observatory!

Dinner out at a nice place (made even nicer when our tablemates paid for our dinner!) and biking on a little more

Following the river, and arriving at our hosts' house (thanks Mom for the contact!) and Emily's new tires

Got up at Stephanie’s after a good night’s sleep. Had oats with nuts and dried blueberries for breakfast with a yummy fruit smoothie! Chatted, shared some good laughs. Great! Packed up, and headed out around 8:30. Our directions I wrote down from Stephanie were: “75 Creek Trail. River on W side. Stone arch bridge. E side river. Summit to College. Don’t cross river.” Were on paths for a good portion, rode through St. Cloudish, and out following 75. Got a flat about 10 miles out, patched it, then got another flat not much later when we stopped and had the biggest, best, chocolate frosted custard filled donut ever. Put in a new tube, and things were okay for a while. Stopped at a church around 1:30 near Oksaka, had lunch, and went on our way. Rode rode, trying to go fast to meet Steven’s friend. Stopped near Minneapolis, and had another flat, which we patched. So frustrating. Rode into town along the Mississippi River—beautiful! Tons of people out walking and riding by the river- cool! Crossed stone arch bridge, and rode into St. Paul. Saw wild turkeys and 1 with babies. Rode to Macalester College and met John and Victoria/Veronica. John gave us a tour of their astronomy department and observatory, which was pretty cool. Left there around 7:15 and biked to a store called Caf Latte where there was a piano outside that Steven played. Went in and got a turkey guac sandwich. Some nice folks at a table by the door were finishing up while we were looking for a table, and they gave us their table. Steven talked to them a little, and they gave us $30 to buy our dinner for the night. Crazy nice! We must have looked pathetic . Ate- pretty good with focaccia bread- and then I got a big piece of chocolate turtle cake for dessert. Yum! Left there around 8, and rode out of town, following mostly bike lanes and bike paths. Great riding. Made it to the Zeman’s house around 9:30. Jeff was so nice—knows our parents and worked for Marathon with geology and IT support like Dad. Showered, went down and chatted for a long while. Ate cheese and meat and crackers and grapes. Very nice guy, very interesting to talk to. Went upstairs around 11:45 and went to bed late.

Day 30: 2 Jul Thu

bike from Cottage Grove, MN to Stockholm, WI (54 miles, 2700 feet of climbing)

Really big sunflower and pumpkin garden? lots of crops again

Another day, another ice cream. Also, bluffs along the Mississippi River and a weird sunset

We stayed with hosts on their farm! chickens and cows and lots of crops around

Woke up at 8:30 (what?!) at our host’s home in College Grove. Went down stairs and chatted a bit with Jeff and met Kaynell his wife. Steven came down a little later, and we had a great breakfast of scrambled eggs with meat and cheese, oatmeal with raisins and brown sugar, apples, grapes, and coffee. Yum!! Soon after, went into town about 10/15 minutes to the bike shop where they said my back tire needed replaced and my front just about, too. $45 each, but hopefully worth it. Loaded up, got back to their house, and I put the new tires on my bike. It took me a while, but got it, and it feels great! Got things packed up and loaded, took a quick pic, and headed out. Stopped in College Grove at a Cub Foods for groceries. Left there, went along a bike path out of town, and eventually crossed a river and entered Wisconsin! Lots of long and some steep climbs. Met another cyclists out for a day ride going 100 miles. Stopped for sunscreen and eventually made it to Diamond Bluff where we stopped at a bar there and got waffle fries and popcorn. Used the wifi, bathroom, and had lots of the free popcorn. Left Diamond town after calling our hosts to let them know we’d be later than we thought. Kept riding 10 flat miles. Got ice cream at a pressed penny ice cream place. Turtle sundae for me- yum! Left there after looking at map and climbed up another long hill, then down a lot too. Through another small town, turned on AA. Huge, steep climb up to where our hosts’ house is. We made it to their house and met our hosts, who looked like they were about ready for bed. Quickly showered in the basement (yay!), and set up camp. Cool farm, and glad to have a free, safe place to sleep!

Day 31: 3 Jul Fri

bike from Stockholm, WI to La Crosse, WI (86 miles, 1400 feet of climbing)

Big downhill first thing in the morning, then a pretty gentle day riding along the river.

Laura Ingalls Wilder stuff! and great big dams and locks

Riding in to La Crosse with our very kind host, through a holiday celebration in La Crosse (note Iowa!)

Five cyclists staying with one host! We had such a lovely dinner and interesting conversations

Woke up to a ton of slugs on the tent. Got up, packed up my bike stuff, and then the tent and camping gear. Left their house around 7:30, and rode into a little town, Stockholm. Cute little town. Used the porta potty, then stopped at a bakery for a Swedish donut and water fill. Hit the road, stopping at various points for breaks. It was mostly flat. Came to Alma and Steven stopped to look at the locks. Had a snack, rode on till about 12:45 and took a break in Fountain City. Steven talked to Amanda for a long time, and we left there around 2:45. A little girl named Claira was coloring in the park where I was and came over to talk to me. Steven met me there, and we biked on, making good time. Updated our host where we were. We were in Trembeleau, and we got water. We missed a call that our host was riding out to meet us, and we weren’t on the bike path like he thought. Met him in Onalaska, and he rode with us back to his house. Stopped by riverside park where a festival was going on- cool! Rode to his home, and there were 3 other cyclists there, too! Went upstairs and took showers, then had dinner- a feast! Hot dogs, brats, chicken sandwiches, salad, ice cream with sauces. Soooo good and so generous of our host to do that! Couple from PA going from there to OR and down. Chieu from China going all over and deciding as he goes, and Ed our host. It was so fun hanging out, swapping stories and such. After dinner, chatted, did some dishes, and most people went to bed. We chatted briefly with Ed about his adventures. Real cool guy- cancer survivor, survived lots of stuff. Real cool to hear his stories. His wife is in NY now to see grandchildren. He works with power companies monitoring systems. Neat! Fascinating to hear his take and info on power lines, cables, and even lightning. Talked routes with Steven some, and then went to bed.

Day 32: 4 Jul Sat

bike from La Crosse, WI to Little Yellow River Campground (67 miles, 1700 feet of climbing)

Said goodbye to our host in La Crosse and left the river behind. Some rough but nice quiet trails

Camping at a small campground (with loud fireworks at night)

Woke up at Ed’s house around 7:30. Got up, packed things up, and went downstairs and packed up the tent. Ed and Steve (with Ashley) were drinking coffee and chatting outside. Got some mini wheats for breakfast- good- and a few cherries, and sat outside with Steve and Ed. Funny. Ed is really great. Got water, and loaded up. Signed Ed’s guest book, and headed out around 9:15/9:30. Headed towards town, took a bike trail that connected with another bike trail. Each paid $4 to get a pass to go on it, and off we went. Made it, stopped in a little town around 10:45 for snacks, then made it to Sparta around 12. Stopped for a snack, then a gas station around 12:30/1 where we cleaned and greased chains and ate real lunch. I got a donut, and Steven got pizza and coffee. Left there, riding on 16 which was mostly great. Pretty flat, 1 big hill, kept riding. Many small towns- stopped at another Kwik Stop for water with ice (awesome!) around 2:30. Kept going, met another cyclists named Kirk who was older, riding along- funny guy. Longer curly black/gray hair, bright orange helmet, good bags. Stealth camps a lot- doesn’t really like people he says. So funny. Kept going, made it to New Lisbon and stopped at Kelly’s Bar for a brat and sloppy joe. Pretty good, and used internet to see about routes. Biked out of town not far, and came to the road we’d take to Buckhorn. We ended up going a different road to check out a campground, and ended up staying there. Set up camp, had ramen and tuna for dinner. Steven had hummus and carrots and chips. He showered while I ate and set up the tent, then we did some business, set up some possible plans, and Steven got in the tent. I showered, came back, put stuff away, got in the tent, journalled, talked to Adam for a while, and went to bed. Up at 5 tomorrow is the plan- cool!

Day 33: 5 Jul Sun

bike from Little Yellow River Campground to Oshkosh, WI (89 miles, 1700 feet of climbing)

Morning stop for cinnamon rolls (in mosquito-free store). and afternoon stop for cheese curds!

Then biking into Oshkosh with hosts

Got up at 5:15, Steven got up after 6. I packed up, got stuff ready for oatmeal, and waited. Had oatmeal, packed up, went and filled water at bathrooms, and left at 7:15. Made it to Necedah around 8:15. Steven got coffee and a cinnamon roll. Went on, getting on 21, which we’d be on the rest of the day. Stopped around 10:30 in town- got donut and did sunscreen. Stopped at 12:15 in Wausea and Steven got Subway. I got a free cookie from a gift card I found. We went further to McD and I got a sandwich and we got ice cream. Did internet things, and left after not too long. Went pretty fast- mostly flat- made it to Omra by 4:15. Got cheese curds, and took a break. Was getting ready to leave when our host, Allan, and his daughter Jody rode up. Cool! We followed them through town, by park, in country, and through neighborhoods to their house. Another pair of cyclists passed and offered us beer and wine- we politely declined. Allan stopped to chat briefly- we finally made it to their house. Got unloaded, showered, and watched some world cup game. Japan vs. USA- women’s final. USA got 4 goals in 16 minutes. Japan got 1 later. Drank tang- good! Ate dinner with them of rice with meat and tomatoes and peppers and tortilla chips and fruit. Butter pecan ice cream and cupcake for dessert. Yum! Very fun to visit. Sardines in honey mustard are apparently good. Alan gave us a map with routes to Manitowac for tomorrow and is planning to bike with us a ways. Cool! Bed now, up at 4:50 to leave by 5:30 to give us some time to make the ferry. Go day tomorrow!

Day 34: 6 Jul Mon

bike from Oshkosh, WI to Ludington, MI (via ferry) (61 miles, 1000 feet of climbing)

Our very kind hosts helped us get an early and efficient start and make it to the ferry with time to spare!!!

Crossing over Lake Michigan, and arriving at Ludington, MI

Surprise visit from our parents:

Then off to our host's house. Also, her 18 year old cat

On the ferry now. Woke up today just before 5. Packed up quick, folded laundry, ate a quick golden grahams bfast and hit the road at 5:40. Allan and Jodi rode with us for the first 24/26 miles, which was great. They knew the best way to go, getting us to the North side of Lake Winnebago before they split off to follow the lake, and we went East on 10. It was great! We were going really fast, and didn’t really stop at all while we were with them. Great start. Kept going, stopping in Brillion for water and snacks and sunscreen. Kept going on 10, just a few small hills but mostly flat, and not bad. A little windy, but mostly cross, little head, and sometimes tailwind. In Branch, took P down, nice to get off the busier road, connected to R, and back to 10 into town. Manitowoc is cool! Railyard, kind of industrial, and we made our way to the Port/Ferry. Bought our tickets, and Steven went into downtown for lunch. I had lunch by the ferry, and we waited in line to get on. Got on board around 1:00 and talked to several folks in line who were curious and interested. Another cyclists on board doing ACA routes across MI to Boston. Pulling a trailer on his bike. Cool! On the boat, hung out, took a nap, played some games, and did some WS feedback stuff.

On the ferry, Steven came over and told me Mom sent him a weird message- they were coming through Ludington on the way home from TC. Crazy! We docked, got our bikes, and got off the ferry to see Mom and Dad! Went downtown (after 2 wrong turns) and ended up going to a bar. I got a burger with jalapeno cheese and bacon inside! Chatted, visited- so fun! They left, and we rode to our host’s house around 9:15. Got stuff off our bikes, came in upstairs, showered, and chatted for a bit- talked routes, life, cycling- cool! Jasmin was/is her 20 year old cat. Crawled all over me and sat on me while I was on the phone with Adam. Planned with Steven. Went to room. Did 2 emails. Called Adam for a while to take care of business. Bedtime!

Day 35: 7 Jul Tue

bike from Ludington, MI to Evart, MI (68 miles, 1500 feet of climbing)

Biking through quiet roads and a little bit of a trail:

Setting up camp in Evart by the river

Got up at 7:30 at host’s house. The cat slept with me most of the night- on top of or next to me. Cute! I packed stuff up, then went to the bathroom and talked with Juliann for a few minutes. Went up, brought a load down just as Juliann was leaving. Said goodbye and thanks again. Went up, finished packing, and went down to load my bike. Steven got ready, and we finally left around 9:15. Went on the way, but part was through a DOW plant, so we couldn’t follow the route we had planned on taking. Ended up taking a different way, and it was pretty hilly, but not too bad. Came into town and Steven got coffee and we got donuts at a gas station. Rode on 10, which was not great to ride on. Some shoulder, better at times than others, some trucks, not awesome, but not terrible. Steven went up on the gravel bike path, but I stayed on the road. Met a couple travelling on a tandem from Colorado to DC up to Cleveland, now back to Colorado. They gave us an ACA map of the Erie Connector. Cool! Kept going after we split, and I made it to town, stopped at McD and got an ice cream cone, checked internet, then biked into town. Kept riding the trail bike path, which was a great ride. Finally made it to Evart, found a grocery store, got stocked up. Rode to campground, and ate dinner. Got the tent set up, talked to Adam, went and paid the campground people, and journalled. Steven talked to Amanda. Getting cold and getting dark. Hung up with Adam, showered, and went to bed.

Day 36: 8 Jul Wed

bike from Evart, MI to Bay City, MI (76 miles, 900 feet of climbing)

Cops Bakery in Clare for some yummy doughnuts! then paved trail riding and a bike shop

Our hosts in Bay City let us stay in their camper!!

Woke up at campground around 7. Packed up camp, ate a couple things, then left. Waited a bit for the shower key deposit, then left. Got on the bike trail—smooth sailing. Flat road. Took just over 2 hours to get to Clare. Got a delicious donut at the Cops and Donuts shop, and waited while Steven talked to 2 guys inside. Saw 2 older cyclists who were eating donuts, too. Waited for Steven, then left. Found out we have hosts for today and tomorrow, Yay! Left and went on the ACA route. Rode pretty well till a small town where we stopped for lunch. Left and rode on till Midland. Found a bike shop there and bought a frame pump. Rode on last 2 hours to Bay City. Some wind, and pretty bumpy roads, but not bad. Made it into town. Stopped at Meijer for sunscreen, and my speedometer went crazy there. Left Meijer and made it the last 3 miles to Kim and Greg Langley’s home. Sons Isaiah, Caleb, Noah, and 2 foster daughters—Piper. Cute! 2 dogs. Greg is a pastor at an E Free church right next door. Kim is doula. 2 sweet little girls. 3 funny boys. Had brats for dinner and almost salad with some cherries, too. Talked about science and astronomy lots. Some about foster babies. Held Piper for a long time- 3 weeks old. So small. Gave her a bottle. She sucked m finger in the pacifier- so cool. Did a load of laundry, got a nice shower, and aired out the tent and bags and pads. Good night!

Day 37: 9 Jul Thu

bike from Bay City, MI to Capac, MI (89 miles, 1200 feet of climbing)

Biking through Bay City was a little bit familiar from our Huron trip

Fountains in Frankenmuth and riding through the countryside

Giant (dinnerplate-sized) cinnamon roll in Millington, MI, trail and road riding,

Unloading and re-loading at our host's house to swap gear for the rest of the trip:

Woke up today at host’s in the camper. Slept pretty well and woke up excited to see Adam. Got up at 7:15ish, packed up stuff, went in and got my laundry, folded and put that away. Went inside the house. Kim and Greg looked tired. Had 2 eggs and piece of toast with homemade strawberry and rhubarb jam. Went and finished getting ready to go, and left around 9:15. Went through town to the river park and found the bike trail. Took a cool boardwalk across the river, then stayed on the bike trail through town. Left town and headed out. Things going well, riding along, got on another short bike path. Stopped before our turn to have a snack and put on sunscreen. Going well. Rode the rest of the way into Frankenmuth. Cool old German looking town- horse drawn carriages, cool old buildings. Rode on through, out of town, met some other cyclists on a tandem who are staying with the Langley’s tonight. Funny! They were coming from a shortcut to the ACA route, so we took it, too. Made it to Millisburg or something. Stopped at Speedway and got a coke freeze. Yum. Went to a grocery store and met the president of the chamber of commerce. She asked us where we were going and if we were using the bike path. Cool. Ate lunch. Steven got a ginormous cinnamon roll and some groceries. Rode on a bike path from there a ways, then Adam texted and said he forgot his front wheel at home and was going to be late. Rode along. Stopped at a gas station for water and a snack. Continued the rest of the way. Made it to the house and met Mike who heard we were coming from his wife. Hung out outside, sorting through stuff and figuring out what to send back, what to keep, and what of Steven’s we’d need. Mike tests cars. He ordered 2 pizzas- one with lots of meat, one with just veggies. He went to get them, came back and we ate. Cute big dog named Petey. Good pizza. Mike left to go to work, and we got the run of the house. Steven showered, showed me how to use the stove, and I showered, too. Sorted some things out inside and put stuff away. Steven played their piano, then went to bed since Adam was going to be so late. Adam got there around 11:15! Steven left the following morning early.

In Capac, Michigan, Adam takes over and Steven goes home to sell his house

Emily and Adam make it to Bar Harbor on Day 51, Thursday July 23rd!

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