Elizabethan Spice Compilation

A Late 16th century, English, Spice Compilation

This was compiled for the purposes of filling the Decorated Spice Box as part of an SCA exchange gift.

Top layer tray of box filled with bags and jars of spices, also a hand-made nutmeg grater thrown in. This isn't how period spices would be stored but this was necessary for sending it by post.

Spices

Note: I did include some sources that date past 1600 and indeed past the Elizabethan age, but included them as notes of interest on how food, and dining, both changed and remained similar.

Mace: While a lot of the mace, once used in the recipes, may be powdered, a good deal of whole mace, used in the form of blades, was used through the last half of the 16th century and into the 17th century. This was most often in boiled chicken[i] and capon[ii] dishes (some similar from book to book) as well as for other birds such as mallards and sparrows[iii] as well as other non-poultry dishes[iv]. By the 1650’s I did notice “large mace” also used in a variety of baked dishes[v], however those examples are way past our period, though the degree of change was interesting enough to mention.

Its use in powdered form, or what is most likely powdered form, is mentioned throughout English cookbooks from at least the 14th century[vi] and on.

Cloves: These can either be powdered or left whole. A couple examples for leaving them whole are late 16th century recipe for baking turkey[vii] and a gammon of bacon. In these cases, the meat is studded with cloves before being put in the pastry.

Again, cloves in various forms appear to be quite common in Elizabethan cookery and were popular in English cooking before the era[viii].

Pepper, Grains of Paradise, Long Pepper: By the late 16th century, Pepper seems to have become more of the standard peppery spice with much less mention of Grains or Long pepper in England. It would actually take too much space to list all the recipes containing pepper where the other two seemed mostly confined to either drinks or jelly[ix].

Ginger: From preserves to powder, it’s also a fairly common spice for the Elizabethan palate showing up in too many recipes to list. One note I would like to make is its use for Galentine (known under various spellings), this seems to be the common spice used in later periods while earlier period used either ginger or galangal or both. What is interesting here, is the example of a sauce that was known for its use of galangal in earlier recipes moved to being one that used mainly ginger by the late 16th century. In “stumbling into historic cookery”, I talked about the sauce a couple of times noting its possible origins with the galangal[x].

Saffron and Saunders: Both a spice and a colouring. While some believe it to have been used as two separate spices, my conclusion is that Saffron was just saffron in Elizabethan England and used accordingly. Of course I little proof but it does seem to have a mostly large role as a colouring as does Saunders (red sandalwood). One could use food colouring as a substitute in many cases, though I would advise trying the real thing first to get an understanding of the colours obtained and how the two play together and in various foods. In dishes where the subtlety of saffron could be detected, I would then highly advise only using the real thing.

Cinnamon: Another very common spice and one used from early English cookery and on, used both alone and in named spice mixtures. Cinnamon can also become easily overpowering, many years ago I did a little experiment to show how expensive it would be to cover up even the bad smell of spoiling meat (exposed but not yet decomposed) and only cinnamon came even close to masking the smell, though it took nearly its own weight in spice to do it.

Nutmeg: While sometimes preparation isn't defined, other times recipes state either to either cut[xi], crush[xii] or grate[xiii] the nutmeg. It is also a fairly commonly used spice as seen in several entries from the era.

Salt: Used for seasoning all the way to curing food, very popular but would be wrong to leave it out.

Sugar: common, but not commonly thought of as a spice but it does have a place with spices and was even used in powdered mixtures (see below).

[xiv]Sugar refining, sugar cone (mould) hanging and molasses pot below

Fennel, caraway and Anise: While these didn’t seem to be as common as cinnamon, pepper, mace, ginger, cloves or nutmeg, they still showed up in a few dishes through a selection of cook books, though “anise seed” appears more (but not limited to) in sweet things in sugar or biscuits.

Barberries and Juniper berries: While many berries and dried fruits are mentioned, I picked these because Barberries had become so commonly used in the era while Juniper not so much. While looking through recipes, I probably only noted it twice but forgot to note which recipe or book, when searching it online, I found but one mention[xv]. Barberries, on the other hand, was used in baked, stewed, roasted, and hashed dishes and was also pickled and conserved, which was also mentioned as being a necessary part of the banquet[xvi].

Spices not common or hardly used in the late 16th century that was once used more frequently:

Galangal and Cubebs: These two spices seemed to have gone out of favour in English cookery much after the first half of the 16th century apart from drinks and other medicinal uses.

Spice Mixtures

Blanche Powder: “A Treasurie of Commodious Conceits”[xvii] Has a recipe for this which includes: 1/2lb sugar, ½ oz Ginger, 1/4oz Cinnamon and 2 spoons of Rose or Damask water (to be added to the sugar when it’s heated). This recipe really shows how the white is achieved in the powder.

In my middle-English Recipes blog[xviii], I have also covered some spice mixtures, though through earlier mentions and with emphasis on people figuring out their own mixtures:

-Good Powder or Powder: This could be any mixture of spices, likely whichever you think is good and to taste. Sometimes it is just assumed that the cook knows which is best for the recipe. In the ingredient list I used "Good Powder" to denote both "good powder" and simply "powder" as they mean the same thing.

-Powder Douce: sweet, mild, spice/combination

(Some examples: -sugar, cinnamon and ginger -Sugar, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and mace)

-Powder Fort: strong, pungent or sharp spices/combination

(various mixtures from: long pepper, grains, cloves, pepper, cubebs, cinnamon, ginger...)

-Powder Blanc: light coloured spice mixture that can include sugar, ginger, cinnamon and/or nutmeg. This is another name for the powder mentioned in “A Treasurie of Commodious Conceits” which also shows up in books written as early as the 14th century.

Other powders I have not been able to discern are “powder rostyng” and “powder marchaunt”. The first is obviously a combination of powders suitable for roasting while “powder marchaunt” seems a bit vague. It could be anything prepared and sold for ready use by a merchant or it could be something specific. In the prologue for “the cook” in Chaucer’s tales, it is mentioned as “poudre-marchant tart” which he uses with galingale for boiled chicken[xix].

Compartmentalized part of box, spices could be stored loose but I would not recommend doing that when modern jars can keep it fresher longer, but not bad for the short term. Here they are packaged for mail delivery.

References:

[i] “to seethe chickins in lettice”, from: “A Book of Cookrye”, 1591

[ii] “To boyle a Capon Larded with Lemons”, from: “The Compleat Cook”, W.M., 1658

“To make a White Broth with Capon”, from:Mrs. Jane Parker, her booke, 1651 (MS3769 from Welcome historical medical library)

“To boyle a Capon Larded with Lemons in the French Fashion”, from: “A New Booke of Cookerie”, John Murrel, 1615

“To Boile a Capon”, from: “The Good Housewife’s Jewell”, 1596

“To boyle a Capon with Oranges...”, “to boyle a Capon in white broth”, “Another way...”, “To boyle a Capon in brewes”, from: “The Good Huswifes Handmaide for the Kitchen”, 1590’s

“To Stue a Capon in Lemmons”, “To boil a Caon in White Broth”, “An other way...”, “To Boyle a capon in Browes”, “To boyle a Capon”, “To Stue a Capon”, from: “A Book of Cookrye”, A.W., 1591

[iii] “To stewe a Mallard”, from: “The Good Housewife’s Jewell”, 1596”

“How to Stew a Mallard”, from: “the Good Huswifes Handmaide...”, 1590’s

“To stue Sparrows and Larks”, from: “A Book of Cookrye”, A.W., 1591

[iv] “To stew oysters with herbs”, “another way to stew oysters”, “to boyle a brest of moton”, “to stew a necke or loyne of moton”, “to stew colleyflowers or a cabbage”, “to boyle a rabbett”, “to stew a rumpe of beef...”, “to boyle a carpe or pike”..., from: Mrs. Jane Parker, her booke, 1651 (MS3769 from Welcome historical medical library)

“To bake calves feet”, from “The Good Housewife’s Jewell”, 1596

“A pudding in a Turnep Root”, “To seeth a Gunard”, from: “A Book of Cookrye”, A.W., 1591

[v] “a pie of rosted capon”, “to make a potato pie”, “to make a calves head pie”.... from: Mrs. Jane Parker, her booke, 1651 (MS3769 from Welcome historical medical library)

[vi] A sampling of recipes I translated from middle English into modern English that contain mace: http://midenglishrecipes.blogspot.ca/search/label/mace

[vii] “To bake a Turkie and take out his bones”, from: “The Good Housewifes Jewell, 1596

“To bake a Gammon of bacon”, from: “A Book of Cookrye”, 1591

[viii] A sampling of dishes containing cloves within the 14th and 15th century that I have translated into modern English: http://midenglishrecipes.blogspot.ca/search/label/cloves

[ix] “Gellie with Flesh”, “To make Hypocrase” from: “The Good Husewifes Handmaide for the Kitchen, 1590’s

“To Make Ielly”, from: A Book of Cookrye, A.W., 1591

“To Make Ipocras”, from: “treasurie of commodious Conceits”, 1573

[x] Talking about Galangal and Galentine in “Stumbling into Historic Cookery”: http://compendiumhistoric.blogspot.ca/2010/02/galyntyne-revisited.html

[xi] The nutmeg is cut in quarters in the recipe: “To sowce a pigg”, from: “The Good Housewife’s Jewell”, 1596

Also “to sowce a Pigge” repeated in “A New Booke of Cookerie, 1615, and from the same book, it is sliced in “to sowce a breast of veale”

[xii] The nutmeg is beaten with other spices in the recipe “To stewe a cock”, from: “The Good Housewife’s Jewell”, 1596

[xiii] The nutmeg is grated in the recipe: “To boile a capon in white broth”, from: “The Good Housewife’s Jewell”, 1596

[xiv] Dioscurides Tractatus, 14th century

[xv] “to roast woodcocks” from: “A Book of Cookrye” 1591

[xvi] Listed in banqueting items in “the Good Housewife Handmaide”, 1590’s

[xvii] A Treasurie of Commodious Conceits” by John Partridge, 1573

[xviii] http://midenglishrecipes.blogspot.ca/p/list-of-15th-century-spices-and-herbs.html

[xix]“ A COOK they hadde with hem for the nones,

To boille the chiknes with the marybones

And poudre-marchant tart and galyngale;

Wel koude he knowe a draughte of Londoun ale;

He koude rooste and sethe and broille and frye,

Máken mortreux and wel bake a pye.

But greet harm was it, as it thoughte me,

That on his shyne a mormal hadde he,

For blankmanger, that made he with the beste.”

From the Canterbury Tales: The General Prologue, by Geoffrey Chaucer, 14th century.