Royal Visits

For many months during 1822, there would have been great excitement in many Albany Street homes, and at Number 20 in particular. William Gray Cunningham, a solicitor, was a member of the Royal Company of Archers and the Company were to carry out their traditional duty of acting as the Guard of Honour for the visit of King George the Fourth to Scotland; the first visit to Scotland of a reigning monarch since 1650. Cunningham’s wife, Janetta, would have been busy ensuring his uniform was newly brushed, and ensuring that both of them had the proper attire for the later Royal events to which they were invited.

Instructions on dress had been issued by Walter Scott who had taken it upon himself to manage the King’s visit. He produced a shilling booklet Hints addressed to the Inhabitants of Edinburgh and Others in prospect of His Majesty’s Visit by an old citizen which gave an outline of the planned events, and detailed advice on behaviour and clothing. ‘Gentlemen may appear in any uniform to which they have a right; and for those who present themselves as Highlanders, the ancient costume of their country is always sufficient dress. Those who wear the Highland dress must, however, be careful to be armed in the proper Highland fashion, —steel-wrought pistols, broadsword, and dirk. …The ladies cannot require to be informed that they must all appear in Court plumes and fans. At least nine feathers must be in each head-dress. It is reported, that many Highland Ladies are to appear in tartan trains, according to their several clans. It is, however, by no means certain that this will have a graceful look. A scarf of tartan may do very well, but four or five yards of tartan satin sweeping the ground must produce an effect, to say the least, of rather a novel character. The ladies should undoubtedly keep their tartans for another occasion.’

On the great day in August, Cunningham joined his fellow Archers to march down to Leith where the King's ship, the Royal George, was due at noon. Unfortunately, the King’s landing was postponed due to torrential rain, and it is likely that Cunningham would have arrived back at Number 20, soaked and with an understandable air of anti-climax. Fortunately, the next day dawned bright, and the Company of Archers were at the quayside as the King, dressed in naval uniform, stepped ashore onto a red carpet strewn with flowers. (Detail from a painting by Alexander Carse)After fifteen minutes of the ritual salutations the King mounted his carriage. A quiet pause was rudely interrupted by Colonel Glengarry, the conceited and ostentatious Chief of the Clan MacDonnell, who galloped on horseback up beside the King, swept off his bonnet and loudly announced ‘Your Majesty is welcome to Scotland!’ Walter Scott was furious but the King, in good humour, bowed graciously at this unplanned intrusion as his carriage moved off. A procession including the Archers, lowland regiments and Highland clan regiments with pipe bands escorted the King's open carriage up to Edinburgh, past cheering Scots crowding every possible viewpoint eager to show a welcome to their monarch. At a theatrical ‘medieval’ gateway the King was presented with the keys to the city and ‘the hearts and persons’ of its people.

George then travelled by carriage to Holyrood Palace, where the great and good, including a number of Albany Street residents, queued to be greeted by their King. He was resplendent in a Highland outfit, complete with pink pantaloons to conceal his bloated legs, described by one as ‘buff coloured trowsers like flesh to imitate his Royal knees.’ When someone complained that the kilt had been too short for modesty, Lady Hamilton-Dalrymple wittily responded ‘Since he is to be among us for so short a time, the more we see of him the better.’ On the Monday evening the King attended the Caledonian Hunt Ball and was excited by the reels and strathspeys. Yet again Scott had ensured that the King’s wish for all the music to be ‘purely national and characteristic’ was met. On the Tuesday evening, George attended the theatre to see Scott's Rob Roy, then on the Wednesday, after knighting Adam Ferguson and Henry Raeburn at Hopetoun House, sailed away.

It was not until 1842 that Edinburgh welcomed back a reigning monarch. The Reverend Charles Hugh Terrot (Number 39), Bishop of Edinburgh, was one of the city’s leading dignitaries designated to welcome Queen Victoria to the city. Although Sir Walter Scott was no longer alive to manage this royal visit, the Queen was much taken by his novels and keen to see her northern kingdom. Her visit would be the first of many, as she swiftly fell in love with Scotland. It was estimated that upwards of 100,000 people had come from all corners of Scotland to welcome Queen Victoria. Unfortunately, once again poor weather delayed the Royal Yacht and she too arrived the day after she was due. (Arrival of Queen Victoria’s at Leith by William Huggins)We have Victoria’s own account from her diary: ‘At a quarter to one o'clock, we heard the anchor let down - a welcome sound. At seven we went on deck, where we breakfasted. Close on one side were Leith and the high hills towering over Edinburgh, which was in fog; and on the other side was to be seen the Isle of May (where it is said Macduff held out against Macbeth), the Bass Rock being behind us. The impression Edinburgh has made upon us is very great; it is quite beautiful, totally unlike anything else I have seen; and what is even more, Albert, who has seen so much, says it is unlike anything he ever saw; it is so regular, everything built of massive stone, there is not a brick to be seen anywhere. The High Street, which is pretty steep, is very fine. Then the Castle, situated on that grand rock in the middle of the town, is most striking. On the other side the Calton Hill, with the National Monument, a building in the Grecian style; Nelson's Monument; Burns' Monument; the Gaol, the National School, &c.; all magnificent buildings, and with Arthur's Seat in the background, overtopping the whole, form altogether a splendid spectacle. The enthusiasm was very great, and the people very friendly and kind. The Royal Archers Body Guard met us and walked with us the whole way through the town.’

In the 20th century, Albany Street has had a number of royal visitors. In 1926, the Duke (later King George) and Duchess of York formally opened the Cameron Highlanders Association of Edinburgh Club at Number 17; in 1947 the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders War Memorial Club at Number 36 was visited by Princess Elizabeth (later Queen Elizabeth) and Lieutenant Philip Mountbatten (photo 1947); and, in 1999, Princess Anne opened the Edinburgh Assay Office in the former Albany Street Chapel.