Some designs that inspired my own organizer design
Smart Desk Organizer with Time Tracker
I had a problem organizing my desk and also a problem adjusting the time of study and work, and I had an idea of making a Desk Organizer and also observing the time of study and work.
youtu.be/-i8i4wq-iRU?si=6gGFv6e8RBYUpuqK
https://www.instructables.com/Desk-Organizer-Design-Using-Onshape/
software:
I used Fusion 360 to CAD design of the desk organizer .
I took design measurements and was inspired by the cardboard video that I actually did.
youtu.be/-i8i4wq-iRU?si=6gGFv6e8RBYUpuqK
Open Fusion 360 and create a new design file.
Save my project with a name.
create a new component
Create a 2D Sketch
Select the plane that I need to draw (right, front, top).
Use the Rectangle Tool to create a rectangle for the design parts.
Draw a tape and set almost its dimensions: 10 mm * 3 mm
DrawT slots to be: dimensions: 5.5* 2.40 and 3* 10
I do extrude the design parts to be 3mm
I do the assembly by using the joint tool to fully assemble the design
Customize the Design
Apply materials: Go to Appearance (A) and choose wood.
These are the steps I followed to design all the design parts
draw a tape and set its dimensions: 10 mm * 3 and and
DrawT slots to be: dimensions: 5.5* 2.40 and 3* 10
there is another tape that is 10mm*6mm to give the organizer some length on the ground
I worked a circular hole with a diameter of 10 mm in it in the back part of my organizer the book holder and the back of the cable management system design
I made slots for the tape by using a tool project, and I did circular slots for 3mm screw
The full design
Softwares:
fusion 360
RDWORKS
ULTIMAKER CURA
The Material
PLAYWOOD
PLA FILIMENT
The Machines
FDM 3D Printing
Development/Implementation Process
save the 3 d part as a stl file
save design parts as DXF file
I import the DXF file in RDWorks , and set up the speeds and powers. to be
power: 45 / speed : 40
export the STL files. in cura
then do flat to the design on the bed
fabricated parts by laser cut
Software:
I used Thinkercad to simulate my electronic circuit
breadboard
helps organize connections without soldering.
9 Volts Adapter:
Supplies a stable 9V power to circuits and Arduino
jumper Wires
Connect components to the Arduino Uno and breadboard.
allowing signals to transfer.
Measures distance by sending and receiving ultrasonic waves.
Sends an electrical signal to the Arduino based on the detected distance
Buzzer: Produces sound when powered.
On/Off Switch: Controls the flow of electricity in a circuit.
A DC power supply jack socket is a connector used to provide direct current (DC) power to electronic devices.
Arduino Uno
Arduino Uno is a small programmable board that reads inputs and controls outputs based on uploaded code.
The TM1637 4-digit 7-segment LED display module
is a simple digital display for Arduino and other microcontrollers.
Uses the TM1637 driver chip for easy control.
Displays numbers, time, or other data (e.g., temperature, counters).
Requires only two data pins (CLK and DIO) for communication.
Works with 5V power.
Commonly used for clocks, timers, and counters in Arduino projects.
Wiring Connections:
1. Ultrasonic Sensor (HC-SR04)
VCC → 5V (Breadboard)
GND → GND (Breadboard)
TRIG → Pin 7 (Arduino)
ECHO → Pin 8 (Arduino)
2. TM1637 4-Digit 7-Segment LED Display
CLK_PIN → Pin 2 (Arduino)
DIO_PIN → Pin 3 (Arduino)
VCC → 5V (Breadboard)
GND → GND (Breadboard)
3. Piezo Buzzer
Signal Pin → Pin 9 (Arduino)
GND → GND (Breadboard)
4. On/Off Switch
One side → DC Power Positive (+)
Other side → Arduino VIN (to control power input)
9 Volts Adapter/ 2 Ampear
is supplying the Arduino,
and take power from Arduino to : ultrasonic, TM1637 , buzzer
1. Declaring Variables & Libraries
#include <TM1637Display.h> → Library for the TM1637 display
Timer variables: timer, prevousTime, mood (controls timer phases)
Pins:
CLK_PIN & DIO_PIN → TM1637 Display
trigPin & echoPin → Ultrasonic Sensor
PIEZO_PIN → Buzzer
void setup
Configures pins for the ultrasonic sensor
Initializes serial monitor (for debugging)
Clears the display and sets its brightness
Distance Measurement (Ultrasonic Sensor) in loop()
Sends a trigger pulse to measure distance
If the distance is < 60 cm, the countdown timer starts
If the distance is≥ 60 cm, the timer resets
Countdown Timer Function (promodor())
Controls two phases:
Work Time (work_TIME) → Counts down and displays time
Break Time (break_TIME) → Starts after work time finishes
When countdown reaches zero, the buzzer beeps, and display blinks Updates the timer every second
The buzzer sounds for 1 second when the timer reaches 0
Ultrasonic sensor measures distance
If an object is within 60 cm, the countdown starts
Time is displayed on the TM1637 module
When the countdown reaches 0, the buzzer beeps
After work time ends, a break time countdown starts
When both timers finish, the system resets and waits for another object
source code link, i take the code from this site , and i modified the code
after assembling the electronics components, connect the Arduino to the laptop by USB to upload the code
assemble the fabricated parts and try to assemble the electronics in the fabricated part
after assembling the all fabricated parts
assemble the electronics component in fabricated parts
video that I do assembly of fabricated parts and assembly of the electronics components
connect the electronics component by power and test if it work
To make it easier to install the screw and the nut I put the nut on it and put the adhesive tape on the sides and I install the part and then I tie the screws and I took this idea from my colleague Hazem Ramadan
First, when saving files as DXF, make the laser kerfe about (0.05 mm) because when I did the kerfe about (0,15 mm), I made the tabes slots tight, and I had a problem when assembling the fabrication parts, and I solved this by using a circular sander on the tables.
The key to the solution
When I need to cut more design parts, the fab lab specialist advises me to save design files as DXF makes laser kerf about 0.05 mm.
also, the fab lab specialist advised me to solve the problem of sight slots when the parts are fabricated, by use the circular sander on the tables
second: wood exposed to moisture. I use wood exposed to moisture without knowing that the part is bad and I cannot assemble it with other parts.
The key to the solution: the fab lap specialist advised me to solve this problem by using good wood and repeating this part
3. There is a part that, when cut in a laser, has slots that are not cut so when cut in a laser machine, make sure the part is cut well.
The key to the solution: the fab lap specialist advised me to solve this problem by cutting a new part
also, the fab lap specialist advised me if I notice the machine does not cut the part correctly, I repeat the cut again before move the part from its place
Also, when working with electronics, my instructor advised me to make sure that the connection is correct because if not correct, it can lead to burning the component and Arduino, like as I did
I would add an LCD screen to show the progress of student or the worker
and add a design for the smartphone/tablet stand: