The British Premier League, the most famous football league in the world, is right at our doorstep here in London. In England, football is religion. I figured that it’d be a shame if I didn’t take advantage of this opportunity presented to us. So far, I’ve been to three Premier League matches and also have watched various matches at the local pubs. Through watching football in the UK, I’ve found a gateway into British culture. Here are some of the clubs and areas I’ve been able to explore during my first three weeks in London.
West Ham was my introduction to in-person Premier League football. My friends and I went to the match the day after we arrived in London, so we were full of wide-eyed excitement, as we had yet to experience English culture. When we got to the stadium, I noticed some differences between sport in the US and UK. The differences include:
In the US, drinks are allowed and very common inside the stadium. People in the UK, however, are expected to drink outside of the stadium before the match and during halftime. The UK seem to treat their football ground like a haven where everyone is expected to sit and watch a story unfold on the pitch, whereas the US mostly treats sport as an entertainment experience.
Football fans in the UK are very passionate about their team because the sport culture is stronger here. In the UK, there is crazy support for even lower division teams (2nd division side Sunderland have an average attendance of 25,000), whereas you will need to win games to get loyal support in the US. At West Ham, I found myself getting ridiculed for wearing a matchday scarf with both teams on it by multiple West Ham fans, which was shocking to me because there are away fans in American stands all the time. People in the UK are very straightforward and cold, which was a part of the culture that I was introduced to at West Ham.
British fans do not mess around. They aren’t focused on pyrotechnics and flamboyant displays. They come to the ground to watch the football. The concourses offer very limited food options and do not allow drinks inside the stadium because the fans’ focus should be on the football. In the US, the focus is on entertainment. There are cheerleaders, t-shirt tosses, and a wide variety of food selections on the concourse.
West Ham fans were generally positive. They were proud to support their team, and they cheered the team on to a 1-1 draw against a decent opponent in Tottenham Hotspur. The match was thrilling, as both teams played free-flowing football and there was rarely a moment to catch a breath. It was a wonderful experience to watch football while also taking in little bits about British culture.
Chelsea is a very affluent area of London, and I could feel it as soon as I stepped out of the underground. The streets are filled with white luxury houses and the neighborhood is much quieter than central London. As a result of this luxury, the people in the neighborhood were far more international than most boroughs of London. As I walked around the stadium, I heard German, Spanish, French, and I even sat next to some Americans.
Unfortunately, luxury always comes with a little bit of snobbery. We found the Chelsea fans to be way less fun than the rest of England, as most of the fans sat and silently watched the game with the occasional complaint directed towards a certain player. My suitemate also got told to put his phone away when he was recording a play. The fans were clearly not happy, and the match ended in a 1-1 draw. Chelsea fans were also strong royalists. They had dedicated a section of their stands to a banner for the Queen, drawing a possible connection between affluence and connection to the Royal Family. This can be contrasted with Liverpool F.C. fans, who went as far as to boo the moment of silence for the Queen’s passing.
I’d say I had the most fun at the Tottenham match. The Tottenham neighborhood is very residential, but you can feel the heart of the area in their huge, brand-new stadium. Tottenham fans were more approachable and much louder than Chelsea fans, as their support never waned during a 2-0 victory decided by two late goals. Both of the goals were headers by the same player, and he came to our end to celebrate for both goals. Another fun thing that happened during the match was the ball came about three seats away from us in the stands. I overheard the Tottenham supporter who caught the ball say “I’ve been in these seats for 15 years, and this has never happened to me before”. Tottenham played against Marseille, a team from France, in this match, as Tottenham were participating in the European Champions League. There’s not much you need to know about the Champions League other than their pompous, grand anthem. The match was a blast, and I’d definitely go to another match if I wasn’t a broke college student.
Tottenham Hotspur have a historical association with Jewish supporters and they have fully adopted the Jewish identity. You can often hear Tottenham supporters chant “Yid Army'', a Jewish term that Tottenham supporters have proudly adopted. Stern junior Josh Finklestein compares the chant to the Black community’s use of the n-word (though on a much smaller scale), as Jews have taken what is an offensive phrase and owned it for themselves. In a conversation with my suitemate, Stern junior Dylan Nijankin, he gave me some intel on the history of Tottenham’s Jewish influence. His uncle was a Jewish Tottenham Hotspur supporter in the 1970s, and this was a time when football was much more localized. It was also a time when people were more overtly racist towards one another. Therefore, the predominantly Jewish neighborhood of Tottenham was often met with away fans coming to the ground and calling their fans Yids. In response, the Tottenham fans would call themselves Yids, giving away fans no power to try and insult them with the phrase. Nowadays, football has become a far more global game, and Jews have mostly moved out of Tottenham, but the tradition of the Yid Army lives on. Finklestein comments on this globalization by saying that Jews in our generation do not support Tottenham because of heritage anymore, and you can find Jewish Premier League fans from all different clubs. Nijankin, meanwhile, has expressed a desire to go to more Tottenham games to feel more closely connected to his Jewish heritage while in London.
Visiting football pubs in England has been another fascinating cultural experience. The pub culture here is very similar to the US in that people use the matches as an excuse to congregate in groups and drink. My suitemate and I got to know the owner of our favorite pub, and it has become a tradition for us to go and watch matches there. We’ve watched some pretty bad matches, but like everyone else, we just use it as an excuse to get out of the house and enjoy a night out.
The pubs that show football matches often do not serve food. This is because the pub is utilized fully as a congregating space, and serving food would give less space on a table to those who come to drink. It is expected that you either bring your own snacks or eat before coming to the pub, as the pub is meant to be a place where you can watch the match with friends, not a restaurant. This part of pub culture draws parallels to the limited food options at stadiums, as it is expected that you get your meal at a proper restaurant or eat at home before the match.
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Sport has always been a language that has come easy to me, which is what has made exploring London through football a rewarding experience. I was born and raised in the Boston area, so I’ve also noticed a lot of similarities between Boston culture and British culture through sport. Boston has a lot of European and British influence (baked beans, identical city names, first colony in the US) and this influence is often reflected through fans of sport. Boston takes a lot of pride in their teams, as we have the most successful franchises in basketball and American football. In a conversation I had with Harvard student Noah Tavares, he said that “Boston fans are different from the rest of the country because they actually try to understand why their teams lose”. I always knew that people said that Boston had British influence, but I didn’t really feel it until I experienced it first-hand through sport culture. I appreciated seeing these similarities in cultures because it made me feel more at home here. Looking forward, I’m going to be able to watch football in Manchester, Liverpool, Barcelona, and Paris, and I hope to come home with many valuable experiences that will shape my worldview. After all, that’s why we go abroad, right?
Shreyas Inamdar
Shreyas is a junior at Stern studying Management and Marketing with a minor in Philosophy. He loves going to sporting events, people watching, and questioning the world.