By Axel Keppler

October 14, 2020

With over a decade of experience in the industry at the age of 34, Matthew Williams is accustomed to shattering the glass ceilings which enclose the fashion industry. Earlier this year he was announced as the creative director of Givenchy.

The decision polarized the fashion industry; Matthew Williams is not a classically trained designer. In 2015 he presented his first collection for his now infamous label ALYX lacking any formal training. ALYX is centered around describing subversive culture through outstanding materials and modern techniques. Prior to that, Williams worked as a stylist and costume designer for celebrities such as Lady Gaga and Kanye West. He also assisted West in creating the label Pastel and assisted Virgil Abloh in creating the streetwear-collective group Been Trill. All of this was accomplished despite only attending one semester of UC Santa Barbara and being denied from Parsons’ fashion design program.

The Spring/Summer 2021 Givenchy collection was presented on October 3rd through a photoshoot as opposed to the classical runway show. Many fashion houses have gone with this technique as the coronavirus has severely limited their options.

As mentioned previously, the decision to simply appoint Williams was polarizing. The collection was as well. Heavily creatively influenced, the photography and styling were very reminiscent of early 2000s luxury wear; think the skinny black suit and strong geometric lines. A highlight of the collection includes a leather hat featuring two horns, which is very reminiscent of designer and former Givenchy creative director, Alexander Mcqueen’s work.

Other standouts include a pair of red leather heels with a natural colored horn heel detail and violently geometric handbags. This focus on ready to wear garments and accessories clearly demonstrates Matthew William’s goal for the French luxury fashion house: inclusivity. While luxury price points and inclusivity may appear to be contradictory, what is being referred to here is intellectual inclusivity.

For nearly a century, luxury fashion houses have been creating wearable works of art, garments so intricately designed and otherworldly that for the majority of people, it simply did not make sense. By retaining the fundamental form of items that most are accustomed to such as heels, hand bags, and hats and then translating it through Givenchy’s dialogue, the luxury item is now intellectually digestible to the masses.

Yet, as forward thinking as that may be, many simply did not appreciate the designs. The thoughtful balance between seductivity and intimidation was present, yet the execution may have missed the mark. Business of Fashion’s Angelo Flaccavento called the collection, “a bit rigid, a tad too geometric at times,” and added that “melting the icy vibe could be the way forward.” This “Icy vibe,” which many also felt from the collection, could be attributed to this being his debut for the fashion house. Oftentimes during their debut, a designer wants to present themselves so radically that they go a bit too far. As Williams settles into the position and loses this need to prove himself, I expect us to witness some very great work.